Totem

i mounted a couple 3 and 6 degree buble levels each the axis of the fridge corner; if i can get within 3 degrees i find fridge works great. outside of that i am cursing and like linda digging holes or looking for wood to drive on. No more. the welding of the scissor jacks will commence as soon as they show up; and of course I will also give them a good coating of bedliner too on their frames.

Even on an 86? Wow i just learned something; had no clue they could do that; dont think the 86 has the head gasket issue either

Also of note, i have yet to have a trip where i get the hallowed level camping spot on any adventure; i find myself constantly disappointed at airing or deflating air bags, driving on boards etc to try and level. At a rally i once saw a dolphin with the scissors jacks and he was boom level done with a hand drill and half a beer. Been looking for good deal on jacks ever since. I would bolt them on but despise drilling frames etc and the cursing and swearing that goes with it; i love booger welding though each time i use the booger I get a bit better at it.

The problem with leveling for a 1980s fridge has nothing do do with propane lines of any sort and everything to do with the ammonia heating mechanism that if not reasonably level will clog and crystalize and ruin your fridge at worst or at best just wont get cold. The "remodeled" campers if using state of the art newer propane fridges don't require level. Its really that simple.

ok, understood, we are on same page then. The truck battery for me just needs keep alive charge; something in my system brain drains it if i leave it attached. My old harbor freight solar setup a small 10a PWM controller from ebay (now with new improved onboard usb phone charging ports yay!) and i bet this thing is always ready to run. normally i have to desulphate and charge the truck battery before trips as i always forget to disconnect it. I find the pwm chargers can also condition batteries and heal them also; hard to say if the combiner will work as well - which I think was your point. I supposed I could wire one 15 watter to the truck and the other 2 to the coach battery.

I thought the combiner does the thinking? in that rational i just run solar to the coach deep cycle and call it a day; the PWM box keeps from overcharge, overdischarge and i had thought the combiner would charge truck batt if it needs it ; right>?

the od definately clicks something off to the left of the cab, mine does same thing but doesnt chirp click like Blu's. Agree with all everyone has said... in my particular case, the seal was fine, no oil in coolant was just blowing it past valves and the tailpipe VERY sooty. In fact it clogged a Cat Converter and forced me to get new one. your cause may vary from mine and be one of those things mentioned above. Derek's idea is sound anyway, the pcv is cheap and easy to replace. i swap in new ones periodically just for fun since they so cheap.

22re 21 sunrader an 86 i have with efi. I ran mine 2.5 quarts low once with no ill effects, just make sure to get it oiled up and check it at least every other tank. you probably need valve adjustments, but no biggy to drive on as is. The electronic ticking sound is probably a solenoid going bad - that will prove to be much more fun to fix. OD is useless with the amount of weight you are running you shouldnt use it unless going down mountain.

The clearance question would be interesting to see.. because on my rig the lowest clearance point I believe is the poop tank protector, on my rig P.O. welded rebar "V" that points down lower than the tank and its welded right in front of it so that it hits curb before your tank gets busted taking the hit instead. My guess is that this would be the low point and would be lower than the collapsed jack profile. I dont offroad that much but I am very sure the exhaust and V of the pooper will continue to be the things that get beat on just as they always have.

I disagree. I think they would work fine for swapping out a tire with no one in the RV. This would be just a temporary lift in an "emergency" situation but if you are about to tell me that the 5000 lbs jack is somehow less stable that the stock crappy bottle jack that came with the RV I humbly call shenanigans (for said purpose of tire swap) . As to using them for stabilizing, I was thinking more along lines of leveling; hence yes one set of wheels would be on ground and crappy grade side would get risen, just enough to hit Fridge requirements..

The combiner Maineah recommended arrived. Now just waiting on the post hole digger and weld on leveling jacks and I will have enough projects to burn a Saturday on the rig with. I may cheat an just do the combiner though along with semi perm solar panel mounts. Gotta snatch up a cheap PWM solar controller first.

right passenger side tends to sag more on the springs because thats where people get in and out all the time from in the rear; thus the rear passenger springs take the beating

agreed..was thinking I would do that with a booger welder. cordless drill would be the tool to spin them. looks like the bottle jack that came with it would be freed up for other uses, most likely on my ram.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2-pack-24-5000-RV-Scissor-Levelers-Jacks-camper-trailer-Handle/201987480693?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

So, I found a great deal on 4 (3 ton) leveling jacks and scooped em up. Now I am left wondering from the forum, which mounting position would be the best? I am worried about bumper mounts being too wimpy; also i see this system as a possible way to jack up the camper off ground if i go frame, just not sure where a good place on frame may be. Thoughts?

man where were these cheap rears when I was looking... sheesh.

take it to napa and have them sandblast it for $20, then coat it with POR 15. it will never rust again.

there is an all natural enzymatic mold and mildew remover sold at costco in blue jugs that look like wiper fluid. super cheap and it literally erases the stain magically; just keep it wet for a couple treatments and boom stains be gone.

yeah i have an isolator; it only has a black and yellow from the truck and then positives from the batts

wow , now that is the winner, Maineah... just bought that now. will report back after install on how well it works. I will now have an isolator for someone if they need one, though I may end up putting into my dodge ram which currently has a failing parallel setup.

I like it because I already have solid state isolator and dont really want to swap over to solenoid style.

http://www.lslproducts.net/UTLS_FAQs.html what about this?

wow, aside from the printed words "diesel" I should think this would work well as an RV isolator regardless of gas or diesel.

I know this has been discussed before but has anyone cobbled together a setup that charges both the house battery and truck battery together but isolated while including the isolator?

i just got the harbor freight 10x20 carport for $80, a steal. I am going to put 6 4x4 treated posts into the ground with a post hole digger to get an additional amount of height. Once its up I plan to put sheet steel from menards all around it with self tappers into its frame -after the white tarpaulin eventually fails.