Totem
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Posts posted by Totem
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Just curious here, but it would appear the classified piece of this site requires a different account or does not access the user database from the forum accounts correct?
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I find it was totally worth it - to me.. but this may not be for everyone and I am known to waste $ on my sunrader.
the stage (2) 22re I had built out custom from 22reperformance I believe was about $3700 to have made and shipped and took over 1 year from order to receiving it. Installation is bolt on and unless you have something worse than a 4.10 diff you should be fine with it as is. I have seen the frankenstein motor swap attempted in here by many from the lexus SUVs and to my knowledge they are still working on them to get them riding well.
My custom 22re is more than just a sticker as derek chooses to believe, I had mine built presumably the same as WME (another user in this forum) who advised me on it and was spot on. Its the perfect mix of speed and MPG and is still what technically came with it if only ported, cam'd and a better flywheel & injectors... wow what a difference it made though.
Now if i could just find a motorless 4runner....
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Just a quick update to this for anyone looking to find a good runner thats bolt up... I still have my OEM motor on the pallet ready to go if anyone has a blown motor and wants to bring life into one of these old rigs.
So if you need a good running 22RE with perfect compression let me know I wouldn't mind selling it. On the flip side if you have a blown 22re 4runner for sale let me know that too I'd like to buy it to drop my motor into....LOL
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here it is:
took some digging
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I already just replaced my motor - there was nothing wrong with my motor a 22re that had 40k on it when i bought it. It had 80+ k on it when i swapped into my new build. It went about 68 MPH tops its whole life even when it only had 40 k on it...
I have posted about my motor build in here. I had a custom 22re hand built in California and modified by a company that builds them custom for rock crawlers and RVs.
As others taught me in here, its about torque at RPM and your desired goals. The physics of pushing air in one of these RVs means that the stock motors cam, its flywheel and other things were designed around moving a pickup truck, not an RV - thats the 68 mph.
My new motor, which probably cost more than swapping in a 3.4 5VZ would have, now easily reaches 75 MPH. So I have already attained enlightenment for my sunrader which was getting there faster; but my targeted goal was a better top speed on regular terrain, as soon as I am on a mountain pass that motor is trying to do all I mentioned before plus fight incline/gravity and I am right back to checking the law on flashers for the state.
Again, I have yet to see an RV that really doesnt have this problem including the powerstroke diesel ford class C's; once they are in a mountain pass in yellowstone they are going 25-30 MPH and fall right in line behind the Mac Truck they are stuck behind. On the flats sure it would help; but really its the better power band torque range that's getting the speed.
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185 hp (138 kW) at 5800 rpm and 189 lb⋅ft at 4600 rpm.
114 hp at 4,800 rpm 140 lb ft at 3,600 rpm
both above stock..not exactly more than twice... more like 61% more. then we have the weight of the motor... and the other necessary things to be with it...nope they are still snails with the 3.4 VZ toyota motor. Unless you speak of a non-toyota 3.4?
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I am all for truckstops and work out fitness chains like i have been hearing so much about with their free wifi and bathrooms.
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man I miss that one we saw that had that awesome skylight and huge beachwood table in its rear dinette. That was one awesome rig. In fact that is the ONLY rig I would consider leaving my sunrader for.
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I do yield to putting hands on a part and not paying shipping. always the ultimate best outcome.
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I am afraid unless you put in a v8 this will always be a thing on mountain passes.
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I have driven in states that post signs REQUIRING the use of hazard lights and the right most lane below certain speeds. - the point of my post is just that; hazards have absolutely nothing to do with gender and everything to do with requirements of the current state you are in.
While my personal opine on using them is to alert people behind me that "I will not be moving any faster so do not get your hopes up" message is received, I would also like to add that I have also enjoyed seeing "the finger" on many a hand that seemed to be owned by a biologically born female or someone whom identifies as inclined to wear nail polish. Most people in a hurry are just that - in a hurry- and do not necessarily belong to any creed, color or gender. (wow did I just really even say that?)
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In this case I still think ebay is superior because they will have a picture. Car- Part burned me on a wheel they said was a "1 ton duallie" but had 5 lugs... pictures in this case are worth a 1000 words.. (swear words)
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Here is a list of each state's rules regarding driving with hazard lights, according to AAA:
Alabama: The use of hazard lights is permitted while driving unless otherwise posted.
Alaska: The use of hazard lights is not permitted while driving.
Arizona: Hazard light use is not permitted while driving except in an emergency situation.
Arkansas: Hazard light usage is not permitted while driving except to indicate a traffic hazard.
California: Hazard light use is not permitted while driving except to indicate a traffic hazard.
Connecticut: Hazard light use is permitted while driving unless otherwise posted.
Delaware: Hazard light use is not permitted while driving except to indicate a traffic hazard.
District of Columbia: Hazard light use is permitted while driving.
Florida: The use of hazard lights is not permitted while driving.
Georgia: The use of hazard lights is permitted while driving.
Hawaii: Hazard light use is not permitted while driving.
Idaho: Hazard light use is not permitted while driving except to indicate the presence of a vehicular traffic hazard requiring unusual care in approaching, overtaking or passing.
Illinois: The use of hazard lights is not permitted while driving.
Indiana: Hazard light use is not permitted while driving except in emergency situations.
Iowa: The use of hazard lights are not permitted while driving except to indicate a traffic hazard.
Kansas: Hazard light use is not permitted while driving.
Kentucky: Hazard light use is permitted while driving.
Louisiana: Hazard light use is not permitted while driving.
Maine: Hazard light use is not permitted while driving unless to indicate a traffic hazard.
Maryland: Hazard light use is not permitted while driving except in emergency situations.
Massachusetts: Hazard light use is not permitted while driving.
Michigan: Hazard light use is permitted while driving.
Minnesota: Hazard lights are not permitted while driving except to indicate a traffic hazard.
Mississippi: Hazard light usage is permitted while driving.
Missouri: Hazard light usage is permitted while driving.
Montana: Hazard lights are not permitted while driving except to indicate a traffic hazard.
Nebraska: Hazard light use is permitted while driving.
Nevada: Hazard light usage is not permitted while driving.
New Hampshire: Hazard light use is permitted while driving.
New Jersey: The use of hazard lights is permitted while driving.
New Mexico: Hazard light use is not permitted while driving.
New York: Hazard light use is permitted while driving unless otherwise posted.
North Carolina: Hazard light use is permitted while driving unless otherwise posted.
North Dakota: Hazard light use is permitted while driving unless otherwise posted.
Ohio: Hazard light use is not permitted while driving except when a hazardous condition is present.
Oklahoma: Hazard light use is not permitted while driving except in emergency situations and to indicate a traffic hazard.
Oregon: Hazard light use is permitted while driving unless otherwise posted.
Pennsylvania: Hazard light use is permitted while driving.
Rhode Island: Hazard light use is not permitted while driving.
South Carolina: Hazard lights may be used while driving for the purpose of warning the operators of other vehicles of the presence of a vehicular traffic hazard requiring the exercise of unusual care in approaching, overtaking or passing.
South Dakota: Hazard light use is permitted while driving.
Tennessee: Hazard light use is not permitted while driving except in emergency situations.
Texas: Hazard light use is permitted while driving.
Utah: Hazard light use is permitted while driving.
Vermont: Hazard light use is permitted while driving.
Virginia: Hazard light use is not permitted while driving except for emergency vehicles, stopped or slowed vehicles to indicate a traffic hazard, when traveling as part of a funeral procession, or traveling slower than 30 mph.
Washington: Hazard light use is not permitted while driving except to indicate a traffic hazard.
West Virginia: Hazard lights are not permitted while driving except in emergency situations.
Wisconsin: Hazard lights are not permitted while driving except to indicate a traffic hazard or when a hazardous condition is present.
Wyoming: Hazard light use is permitted while driving
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As Maineah said , you will need 2 spares unless you spend over $300 on a set of wheel adapters for the hub whilst dealing with an angry guy.
if you are lucky and have 6 lug nuts on front and back I would just try www.ebay.com for the fastest easiest picture proof way to see what you know you need.
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The Americana had fiberglass I thought? - just not single piece. Still is one of my favorites, they just never come around.
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time to find a storage locker that has high ceilings with power and rent it for a month.. then drive in and fire up the electric heaters and go to town.
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ugh.. the newfound exhaust efficiency dumping heat through the system made the welds fail that i had done with a booger welder on the rear bend after the muffler. ARRRRRRgh... this weekend I will grind and booger weld again. last one lasted couple seasons.
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I'll try to snap a couple pics of my shag door and header in the front cieling to see if its same and post next week.
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I bet our rigs were made in the same quarter! maybe even same month. Twins! VERY cool. Good to know someone that has same machine for sure.
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Simply add the caviat of - you get to watch with a go-pro while they work. Bet that price disappears.
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13 hours ago, sonny sunrader said:
It took a lot of pulling and tugging on the shag with staples in it before I discovered the self tapping screws! Some of the manufacturing under the carpet is pretty crude, mine is a 85' sounds like the same fine fabrication as your 86'. I'm determined to get the shag off of the door, even if I have to take a utility knife and cut it out!
As for the shag roof piece, it looks like they glassed in a board then, I think they screwed the shag to the board. I think I'm going to find some burbur carpet that matches the headliner in color and put that in its place.
Mine was manufactured in 1985 but registers as a 1986, its born on date is 1985. It was the first available year series of EFI 22RE motors when they began selling them with from Monterey. does yours have the 22RE EFI or is it the 22R carburetor model?
your discovery of the headboard on ceiling has me excited. I was too scared to pull too hard or break fiberglass etc so I wimped out on that part of my remodel, now I will revisit it for sure. when you get it off can you send pics?
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i pulled pried and lost the struggle and left the shag on the door surround along with the stripe of shag on the ceiling. seems they epoxied it onto the fiberglass. My favorite was the self tapping sheet metal screws they used to put the shag in the cab.
Had to fill 67 holes in the body tub.
I can tell by your build you have a monterey liesure....sounds like same year as mine.
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1 hour ago, Derek up North said:
cool looks like in 2000 the frame was not American made or were at that time properly rust proofed. Only reason i remembered about that was that knew a guy that got his truck bought back and this was after he beat the crap out of it and couldnt even sell it on ebay for $500; next thing he knew he got a check in the mail for the blue book. I think his was an 05 now that I think about it. he was LOVING it! and had OOOOOhhh what a FEELING!
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wasn't the 2000 Tacoma the truck made from rusty frame steel that was so bad they were forced to buy them back from customers because they were breaking in half empty?
'87 Sunrader Rear Tail Light Replacement: LEDs
in Electrical
Posted · Edited by Totem
$3700 was the motor cost. I paid additional for mechanic to install. That was nearly an additional 2k or so after odds and ends tallied up as it needed many things.
It will run up a pass much more nicely than a stock 22re but its not a corvette.
$5700 would put you in a performance 22re thats meant to do what you want it to with the rest stock (tranny etc) and still retains the bulletproof easy to maintain inline legendary 22re motor with enough room on either side that the average joe can fix anything while on a vacation with wife and kids..The 3.4? not so much and no offense to the guys that love working on that sort of motor and the fun that it entails fitting it into that bay. On the 3.4 I should like to see it cruise a mountain pass at Yellowstone (the ones that are so steep that they have pull offs for RVs) at passenger car speeds on camera, not that I am calling BS its simply physics; they are not 3x the horsepower and I should really enjoy seeing someone attempt to fit the super charger or turbo into it in that engine bay... Would be an awesome proove out to film a 3.4 going fast up a pass, because when I was there I saw as mentioned full size RVs with much more powerful motors than the 3.4 on that incline and they ALL have the snail. Pride never goes before fact with me and it lends folks to get emotional true enough so please do not take it as an insult, just an opinion based on my own observations. will a 3.4 smoke a 22re in a sunrader drag race? hell yes. Will that timing belt last 200k in that motor under that strain and heat with so little space for airflow? I would wager not. For those of us that are more familiar with timing belt blow ups and TRUTH in automotive engineering I challenge that farce for sure:
https://www.greggsauto.net/2013/07/truth-about-timing-belts/
there is a reason that chain driven motors are more expensive than belt ones - they are the real million mile motors. with million mile being qualified as a defined by not having to overhaul them. Chains are not infallible either but they last far longer than belts. Again just my opine , but one backed by facts not emotion. Thats the reason I went the way I did... I simply do not enjoy working on my RV I want to drive it with the wife & kids and avoid break downs as much as possible but if one happens, I am the king of being in and out in 45 mins and back on the road. My family will back me on this. Whats my secret>? the easiest motor in the world ever to work on - a 22re in all that room of a truck bay.
side edit... it was the 3.x series 6 cylinder motors that blow the head gaskets and had the recalls in these RVS. Everyone in here knows that very well. the 22re were far more bulletproof and known mostly for wearing out water pumps or chain guides which when replaced with proper upgraded ones last "forever" (in a true 200k mile sense).