twoblocked
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Posts posted by twoblocked
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I could sure use some ideas. I am stumped.
Nice pic. I have a '92 Winnebago Itasca and have rebuilt my drain valves.
The drain valve is connected to a short piece of hose that drains outside, through the floor.
Locate this hose from underneath and put a piece of cardboard or newspaper in the vicinity of the hose.
Remove the metal 'C clip' (bend it with needle nose pliers) from the top of the valve (it's shown in your pic)
then, carefully drive the valve stem downward, with a long, thin punch or whatever, completely through the valve body.
It will drop to the ground and you will capture it on the cardboard.
Take this plunger to a competant hardware store and let them remove the O'rings, measure them, and give you replacements.
Lightly lubricate the O'rings before plunging them back, upwards, into the valve body from below. Reattach the 'C clip'.
Should be good to go for another 20 years.
The other way is to remove the entire drain valve assembly, take it apart, repair, which is a pain but doable.
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Hey WME. That is a great idea! Me and my friend decided to go to Moab Utah. Thanks so much! We would like to camp maybe close to the river without people by us. Doesnt have to be close its beautiful out there. Any idea where we can go?
We have camped around Moab for the last couple years to ride our trikes on the slickrock MTB trails.
Hiway #128 has lots of camping spots like WME says, but they are all right next to the road. It's over 100F there now so that may keep the traffic down and it won't be so noisy or crowded. Beautiful spots right on the river.
There is no dispersed camping around Moab itself, just some pay campgrounds. We like Sand Flats, $10 a night right outside of town, no river, nice desert, some nice spots away from other campers. The nearest BLM dispersed we found is on the way into Canyonlands Nat'l Park on Hyw #313 about 6-8 miles in on the right. No river, all desert, and camping spots are spread out over miles.
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Regarding trans temp sensor, where is your sensor located? ........ Now I am wondering where the best location for the sensor is. Suggestions?
I installed my temp sensor in the pan, brazed in a fitting for it. (you need to be very mindfull of the location as you could accidently screw the sensor into a working piece of the transmission) There is discussion on this forum about placement, some say install in the outflow, some say install on the return, I say install one where you can, these temps are all relative.
So sorry to hear about your transmission failure. I hope everything worked out.
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We boondock extensively in Northern Arizona and Southern Utah. I know the anxiety of watching gauges climb ballistically on some of the ruthless climbs here. (we're currently on the Bryce Plateau at 8,000ft)
The "diet" didn't work for us. A few pounds saved didn't seem to make any difference climbing in hot weather. We still ran VERY hot, 230F engine, 225F transmission.
So this winter I added ANOTHER transmission cooler. For a total of three transmission coolers. Our climb out temps are now reasonable.
Last July - Phoenix to Flagstaff 105F ambient, 2,000ft to 8,000ft. Engine temp 230F, Transmission temp 225F, 3,500RPM V6, 4.56:1 differential.
This July - Phoenix to Flag 100F ambient, 215F Engine, 190F Transmission.
We get to keep our camping goodies and give the little Toyhome a huge benefit. -
Your fridge unit itself is working properly (boiler, evaporator, condenser) if it works on 110VAC.
I would start looking at the burner assembly. If the burner jet orifice is restricted or the burner itself is sooted up, there won't be enough heat produced to boil the ammonia and consequently it won't cool properly.
You'll need to download the manual for your particular unit and look for the technical section about R&R of the burner and associated parts.
It will tell you what the flame should look like and how to set it up.
Be sure to practice safe propane gas procedures.
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never seen a toyota truck with a scissor jack all that i,v owned had bottle jacks had them from 1983 to 2004. but i do have alot of toyota bottle jacks if need one
Oops, you're right. It ain't a sissors jack but a screw jack instead. Either way it's not going to lift a rear end of one of our 21' motorhomes.
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Toyota usually stored their OEM scissor jack and handle behind the drivers seat. But it is too light to use on the rear end of a 6,000# Dolphin. The front end weighs approximately 2,000# - the rear end approx 4,000#.
I use a bottle jack placed under the axle: http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200304827_200304827
And don't forget one of these: http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200305223_200305223
Also, you'll probably need a 2' breaker bar fitted with an extension and proper sized socket to get the rear lug nuts loose.
The best prevention for flats is good tires.
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Two blocked
The air just does not seem like it is cold enough, other than that it removes the humidity real well, the water runs off the roof when the AC is on.
Removing humidity is hard work for any AC unit. Make sure you have all the windows and vents closed in your RV. You want to re-circulate the air inside and not bring in any outside air that will require extra work to remove humidity.
If water is running off the roof I'd say the unit is operating pretty well. It's just that you have some tough conditions for an AC. (i.e. high humidity)
maineah and WME have the right idea. Take temperature readings in the coach and the discharge at the AC. A 20-30 degree differential is about all you can expect.
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Can I recharge my rooftop AC?? It is a carrier 13,500 btu unit. I would prefer to do it myself if possible. What type of freon does it use?
What symptoms are you having that indicate you need to recharge?
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In my case, '92 Winnebago V6 3VZE, it turned out to be the starter solenoid contactors. It happened three times in a 7,000 mile trip. In each case I crawled underneath and tapped on the starter/solenoid with the handle end of a hammer (you can't get at it with the business end of the hammer, the starter is buried) The truck started right up after a little persuasion.
That winter I dropped the starter and replaced the badly pitted copper contactors in the solenoid. Parts were cheap at Toyota. Tough job because the starter is in a very inaccessable location and hard to snake out of the engine compartment.
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Fascinating thread, Irving. Thanks for posting.
You are correct about the SR5 instrument cluster being plug and play except for the oil pressure sender change out. I installed a 4-Runner cluster in my '92 Itasca ('91 chassis V-6) and all the connectors plugged right into the 'new' cluster. I get by just fine without a gear shift indicator.
I use the old vacuum gauge method of watching for shift points while using cruise control lockup, but you have me convinced to try out an MPGuino. I'm getting 16.5MPG out here in the West with lots of mountains to climb.Like you I live at 48-53MPH on secondary roads.
I might also mention I swapped out the 4.10:1 differential for a 4.56:1. That helped immensely to keep the transmission locked up at lower speeds.
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. What now happens is that I get good AC for the first hour of the day, then nothing the rest of the day, but the next morning I have AC again.
The primary cause of this condition is low freon. To check if you're low, find the drier. They are usually located near the bulkhead on the right hand side of the engine compartment. Trace your freon lines to locate it. On the top of the drier is a sight glass. (you may need to wipe it clean, they can get pretty grimmy)
Start the engine, turn on the AC. Raise the engine RPM. Watch the sight glass, it should run clear, liquid freon. If ANY bubbles appear in the sight glass stream you are definately low on R12. (I'm assuming you still have the original R12 system)
There are other causes for the symptoms you describe, but this is where to start.
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It's the oil pressure sender that needs to be changed out. If you use the pressure sender from the original V-6 you will blow the pressure indicator in the SR5 instrument cluster.
I installed an SR5 cluster (no shift indicator) in my '91 Winnebago Spirit. I purchased a pressure sender for an SR5 cluster and it works perfectly.
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I'm shocked. Got no warning or have seen anything malicious. Hope you find the source Greg.
Linda S
You shouldn't be shocked, this has happened before this past January.
You would not know if you clicked on a malicious link, they are being so cleverly disguised these days. One click and you've just uploaded and installed malware on your computer.
You'd be lucky if it was just a bot. Not so lucky if you get a key stroke logger buried in your boot up sequence. You would have to re-install your OS to clean it up. Virus detection software is useless against a Russian key stroke logger.
Some malicious hackers have a back door into this version of IPBoard software. (they may even be at the GoDaddy level) It seems they can come and go at will.
Time for an upgrade, Mr Administrator.
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How do you folks feel about the wide ranging costs of camping?
For those of you out West.
Just returned from a three week jaunt in Southern Utah. Canyonlands National Park, Capitol Reef National Park, Monti La Sal National Forest, Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument and Dixie National Forest.
All free. Either BLM or NFS lands.
Then on the way home, Kaibab National Forest and Coconino National Forests in Arizona, where we live.
Of course you have to know how to dig a cat hole, there are no hook ups. But the views out our dinner table window sometimes overlooked a million acres of red rock or forest. The drawbacks, water is a precious commodity in the southern Utah. Finding even enough to top off a little 18 gallon tank is a challenge.
Camping fees? I try to avoid them.
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I had similar problems with my clearance lights on a '92 Itasca ('91 chassis,Winnebago). When ever it rained I lost all the clearance lights as well as the tail lights and turn signals.
I pulled the covers from the clearance lights and discovered two of them had "high water marks" inside. They would fill with rain and short out. But they never blew a fuse. I believe they are fused in the driver side kick panel fuse box.
I junked the old lights and put in LED's. The wiring in my coach had positive and negative leads to each light. There was no series wiring, meaning each light has it's own power. If you have lost power to a light check the next upstream or down stream light. Since power is carried through each clearance light, it is possible that either the negative or positive leads are not connecting to each other. (corrosion?) Then the next down stream light will not work.
LED's are nice (but ouch! expensive). The old Bargman lights are pretty tacky, mine literally crumbled, plastic and sockets, when I removed them.
Does anyone know where the fuse is for the top clearance lights? When I started to check the lights I had the first 2 come on then when I was working to clean up the contacts on the 3rd I lost the other two- no power now. I have checked all the fuses I can find under the hood, under the drivers side and in the cabin itself. They are all good. This is a 91 Warrior Winnebago. This is on the back but the front doesn't work either. Tail lights and all the vehicle lights work.
Thanks
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Hi,
I have been thinkning about this myself, however, the one primary reason I have not upgraded is that any increase in capacity will lower the gross carrying capacity of the rig. I have been pulled over, by commercial truck inspectors and directed to weigh in scales, and found to be just over weight and had to dump weight (water, sewer) before allowed to travel on. You are also at risk from insurance point of view if you are overweight, in an accident and are deemed to be at fault, primarily because you exceed the gross vehicle weight (hence too much weight for your specific brakes) - I have seen this happen, your insurance adjuster is not your friend.
Brian.
Gonna have to call you on this, Boots.
If you were directed to a weigh scale (I don't care what state you were in) you must have been in a COMMERCIAL VEHICHLE!
Why are you posting commercial vehicle innuendo on an RV site?
You tell me a commercial truck inspector knew your motorhome is over 26,000# (or in some states, 10,001#)?
Federal regulations prohibit states from enforcing weight regulations on non-commercial vehicles (RV) under 26,000#.
Let's see. 18 gallons of water = 144#
Black water = 12 gallons = 96#
So this "inspector" could see that you were 240# overweight????
And you "dumped" it where? In his office?
And lastly, please, insurance companies regularly pay off in claims involving drunk driving, negligence and criminal liability in accident situations.
Post your citations and substantiation of these ludicrous claims.
Otherwise you're just another internet idiot posting BS.
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The VIN properly describes the Toyota Cab & Chassis, not the particular motorhome manufacturer. (i.e. Winnebago, Gardner Pacific et all) . When you go to buy parts from a Toyota Dealer (online or locally) the VIN will describe the C&C. You will get the correct parts. It doesn't matter if it's shown as a 4Runner.
You will have to deal with your insurance company about what is loaded onto the C&C, motorhome, U-Haul Box, dump bed, etc. As far as Arizona is concerned, the VIN is what is used to determine how the vehicle is licensed.
Regarding Totem's post above (#23), When I changed insurance companies last fall my 87 Dolphin VIN also came back as a Forerunner. I challenged my agent on this. We took the VIN directly from the actual Michigan title and the insurance company's site still said Forerunner. ?????
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I run Linux, I'm not too worried about clicking on a virus loaded link.
But if you're on Windows, please be careful.
I got so tired of reformatting my SIL's computer because she would click the type of links that are offered here.
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John,
I really like this site.
I like the people running it, I like the content.
Your idea of a paypal site is right on. I donate very little to internet sites, but this one I would donate to.
I don't want to see it go away because of a lame ISP.
twoblocked
TwoBlocked, I agree, its very frustrating to wait for 30-0 seconds to get the log on page.
I use JustHost for my site, no problems. Put up a donation page, i.e. paypal, then once a year ask people if they can send $5. I do this with my airplane cursors, pays for the site.
JOhn Mc
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It's time to dump these clowns at GoPaddy.
I'm getting "Internal Server Error" from them now.
You're going to lose faithful posters if you can't keep this site up. Nobody likes to wait 50 seconds for a page.
There are other choices, it's a lot of work, I know.
What is it, a money issue?
It doesn't seem to be the page server, but the database server. pages pop up fast, but queries to the DB are dog slow. (although it seems a LOT better right now)
JOhn
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My other thought is, no offence intended, that since you are a low volume traffic site, GoDaddy has relegated you to a backwoods server.
The ping times on your server, NS51.domaincontrol.com at 216.69.185.26 at GoDaddy seem to be OK, average 36ms with 0 packet loss.
The ping times on your domain, toyotamotorhome.org at 72.167.232.199 are 35ms with 0 packet loss.
My guess is the server itself is overloaded with requests. Maybe a DoS attack on GoDaddy?
It's flooded.
The server responds to requests, (i.e. it doesn't timeout) It just can't service them fast enough.
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The ping times on your server, NS51.domaincontrol.com at 216.69.185.26 at GoDaddy seem to be OK, average 36ms with 0 packet loss.
The ping times on your domain, toyotamotorhome.org at 72.167.232.199 are 35ms with 0 packet loss.
My guess is the server itself is overloaded with requests. Maybe a DoS attack on GoDaddy?
It's flooded.
The server responds to requests, (i.e. it doesn't timeout) It just can't service them fast enough.
Ya, the boards seem to be running unusually slow these past few days and more alarming there is a sudden influx of spam (assume spam bots). Dunno whether GoDaddy.com is just lagging a bit these past few days or the spam bots are causing all this.
Whatever the case, the spam bots have somehow managed to crack Greg's registration question and have been creating new threads. As two-blocked noted, avoid any suspicious or obvious spam threads until this can be resolved.
Greg updated my account about a year ago as an extra eye to look over stuff like this. While I do have access to the admin panel, I don't have any access to do things such as ban these accounts, change registration question, or even shut down registration until problem is solved.
About the only thing I can do right now is remove the spam threads. If you see any, please don't hesitate to report and will try to remove the spam.
The forums have the option to add moderators to individual forums and it would be beneficial to have a few veteran members have the ability to at the least be able to remove threads, move threads, or delete duplicates, and have access to other basic moderation tools.
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AVOID SUSPICIOUS LOOKING THREADS! SPAM BOTS LEAVE MALICIOUS LINKS AND YOU WILL GET A VIRUS!
(Warning Long Post) Tire Hassle.
in Engines - Transmissions - Drive Train - Suspension - Chassis - Steering - Exhaust - Tires - Etc.
Posted
Ever hear of a paragraph?