dayoff53

I've managed to extend my time off - don't have to be back to work until Wednesday, June 29, now. We hope to leave Boise on Saturday, June 18 and probably take a little time getting to Vancouver Island, but can easily be there by Wednesday, June 22 or thereabouts. I will have to head back home by the morning of Monday, June 27 - so that gives us about 5 days on the island. As the date gets closer and we see when other folds will be gathering, we will get more specific about when we will join the party. Living Forest Campground, right? So, how many are in now?

FWIW, the Warrior 321RL doesn't have the door right behind the cab, so it would be easier to extend the bunk. I'm considering it myself...

I have never been to Carlsbad Caverns, so can't help you there. Unfortunately, the places I'm familiar with are a long way from Texas, but we once went on a great Spring Break trip with our son. Moab, Utah. It is a small town surrounded by National parks and recreation areas. Arches National Park is the most famous and it is spectacular! But Canyonlands Lands National Park is also amazing and absolutely huge. Bicycling or jeeping on the slickrock is an incredible adventure. It is also near the Anasazi ruins at Mesa Verde National Park and a little farther from the more accessible ruins in Chaco Canyon at the Chaco Culture National Historical Park. Closer than these attractions is Monument Valley where John Ford filmed some of his best westerns. The Moab area is beautiful in Spring - it is warm enough to enjoy the out doors and cool enough that you won't bake in the desert landscapes. The town itself has lots of good places to eat, microbreweries and other attractions. For a Spring Break trip with (or without) kids of any age, it is hard to beat! I also took the kids to Yellowstone Park for Spring break one year. It is gorgeous and we all had a lot of fun, but it ends up being a slow motorcade on very busy roads and nights in crowded campgrounds. Worth seeing, but too many people to be truly enjoyable for me. Good luck and have fun!

I've done a lot of business with Les Schwab over the years and generally like their service. I haven't talked to them about the wheel because I seriously doubt they can get me a wheel for this rig and I expect they would want more than I am willing to pay if they can get it. However, it would probably be wise to actually ask them rather than making assumptions... I'll give them a call.

I don't know anything about those tires, but the ones on my rig came from Les Schwab in Idaho 3 years ago. They are Nankang 185R14 8-plys. I understand they are still being made, so I would expect Les Schwab can get them for you. I have no other tires to compare them to, but in the few hundred miles I have put on them since I got the Toy in October I have no complaints.

Thank you! I'm still looking, but I have e-mailed a number of places. The best price I have so far is $71.43 including shipping for a used wheel. I am seriously considering a back wall mount but, as you suggest, I would probably but a chunk of 3/8" or thereabouts plywood on the inside. If I can do that in a way that is not unsightly, that may be the best solution. When I start doing instead of talking, I'll let y'all know what I decided.

Hi! My '92 Warrior has never had a spare tire and I am in the process of setting it up with one. I have been searching for a used wheel to no avail, so have now been looking for new. My Toyota dealer can get a factory wheel for $169 and I have found an after market wheel for $90.94 (shipping included). Has anybody here bought the wheel from wheels-and-rims.com? Any complaints? Better yet, does anybody have a source for (or have an extra they want to sell) an OEM used wheel? And, while I'm on the subject, I haven't yet decided how I'm going to carry the spare. Winnebago used the original under-chassis crank system, but my rig doesn't have that and I don't like it anyway. My brother's SeaBreeze has the spare just mounted to the back wall of the coach, which seems to work real well, but I am concerned about having sufficient strength in the wall to support it and a little worried about drilling into a water pipe or something. I am considering using a bumper mount, even though I know those flimsy "bumpers" really aren't good for anything except storing the slinky. Any thoughts or recommendations?

That was very interesting, Greg! It's nice to see some actual test data in a discussion like this. While the filtration part of the comparison is a little less scientific than the air flow part, it looks like a pretty well-designed real world comparison of different kinds of filters. I was particularly impressed with the fact that the most restrictive filter material had only a negligible effect on air flow (only .07 psi pressure drop more than the completely unfiltered test). While a K&N type filter did allow more air flow, the difference is so slight that I can't believe you could sort it out from other variables in our Toys. It also turns out that the common-sense analysis that there is an inverse relationship between air flow and filtration is correct. The K&N type filter definitely let more dirt through. While I'm sure this controversy will not die, when you factor in the cost and the maintenance hassle, I am quite content to stay with OEM-type filters!

Here is a link to the operator's manual PDF. The picture I was referring to is at page 8-5. Good luck! Edit: I found the original scans. I have attached the scan of page 8-5.

Hi! I, too, have a '92 Winnebago (WT321RL - yours may be the more common WT321RB, but this information should be the same). I don't have the motorhome or the water heater manual at hand, but the motohome operator's manual has some information at page 8-5 including a picture that shows the "pilot light adjustment cover screw". I have previously posted a PDF of the manual - I will find a link and post it shortly. For now, I will try to explain it verbally. There is a more-or-less square box with the temperature selection lever at the top. As you look at the face of that box, you will see the "Lighting Control (Reset) Dial" in the upper right quadrant. Immediately below that dial is a screw - that is the "pilot light adjustment cover screw". I have not actually looked at this - I'm just going by the picture in the manual. Anyway, I assume that the "pilot light adjustment cover screw" must hold on the cover over the pilot light adjustment. Logically, if you remove that screw, I would expect you could then remove the cover, under which I would expect to find some sort of pilot light adjustment. If you take off the cover, let me know what you find under it!

Boy, howdy! My brother bought a Winnebago View in 2007 (I think) brand new, but couldn't afford to keep it and now has a Toy home. The View was DeLuxe! - very nice interior, all the goodies you could want AND it could tow a 5,000 pound trailer (he pulled his Goldwing in a trailer) and still get 20 mpg. When those things drop a bit more (used, of course - they are about $100k new), they will have my attention!

Well, when you get near Boise, give a shout! My brother and I (and maybe our wives) would like to take a gander a whatever rig you end up with!

Years ago, I drove my parents' old Toyota motorhome with the 22re engine. I was in my 30's at the time and viewed a speed limit as a lower limit. I found driving the Toy Home - with my wife, 2 kids, brother-in-law and sister-in-law aboard - pretty frustrating. Now, in my late 50's, I am content to drive in the slow lane and stop frequently to smell the roses. But, I still wanted something with a little more "oomph" than the 22re, which is why I bought a "newer" ('92) Toy with the 3.0 V-6 (150 h.p vs about 112 for the 22re, if I remember correctly). It's no fireball, but then it's my intent to stay off the interstate as much as I can ... and wave with all available fingers in return to the single-digit salutes from the people passing. If you are significantly troubled by the prospect of driving 45 m.p.h. up moderate hills - and maybe 35 up steep ones - you might want to look at the V-6's (bump the speed up about 10 m.p.h. maybe) or - Heaven forfend! - maybe Toy Homes aren't for you. Perhaps you can arrange to take one for a longish test drive before you buy it - and keep in mind you will then be driving without a full water tank and all the stuff you and the kids will pack the Toy with, so it will go slower in real-world use.

I, for one, am not yet an "old-timer" - at least in terms of this group or Toy Home ownership. In age... well... this is the internet, right? I'm 29, fit, rich and extremely handsome. Single, too, though my wife isn't. From what I've seen here, there are lots of people willing to give their 2 cents on any question you ask. I think you do need to ask fairly specific questions, though, if you hope for helpful responses.

Both of the books I named are available for Kindle (and probably other devices). I'd lend my Kindle version to you if I could... but so far only Barnes & Noble's Nook allows that.

The fridge is probably a 2-way (propane/110 volt) unit that runs off your propane tank when you are not plugged in. It could even be a 3-way (propane;110 a/c; 12 volt d/c), so that it runs off your 12 volt system when you are driving. I'm guessing you are new to RVs of any sort, so you will want to acquaint yourself with RVs in general before you buy - you need to know what questions to ask and what the answers mean. I just read The Complete Idiot's Guide to RVing and think it is a great place to start. A fair amount of the book is devoted to learning the basics and buying an RV. A similar book is The RVer's Bible. I'm going to leave it to those with more experience than I to give you some specific pointers. Good Luck!

Did you see the front-mount unit that warrior92 has? We were discussing safety and legality issues of it, but it certainly has an advantage in weight distribution. Hanging weight off the back of these little Toyhomes tends to exacerbate a tendency to be overloaded on the back axle. Mine has a generator from the factory and, like most of those, it is toward the front of the coach. Unfortunately it takes up the only outside storage space that existed. As a consequence I am looking at hanging some sort of storage box off the back of my rig on a hitch rack - creating the same problem I just warned you about.

Like you, the '92 Warrior is my first motorhome, though I have had several (way too many) small travel trailers. Always before, I have had a place to store my trailer at my home - two places I made RV dumps and put in 30 amp shore power stations. Our situation has changed since then, though. Now, my lovely bride and I are in a "patio home" in a subdivision that literally does not allow my motorhome on the street - ever - and there surely is no place to store it. Presently, I have it parked at my son's house almost 10 miles (25 minutes) away. This is not terribly satisfactory and I will probably start paying for closer storage next year. Since I winterized it in early November (we get below-zero weather every winter, so protecting the water and waste systems from freezing is essential), I have done nothing to it. I do have a new RV cover over it that, I hope, is keeping moisture and ice off the roof and the sun off the exterior and tires. I took out the coach battery and brought it home to the garage, where I have been periodically hooking it up to my Schumacher SSC-1500A Ship 'n Shore 15 amp charger/conditioner to keep it in good shape - the business that my brother bought his reconditioned 6-volt batteries from recommended this unit. It is available from Walmart or from Amazon, but I saved about 12 bucks by getting it on eBay. In late February, when I am ready to get it ready for my first early Spring trip, I will first put the charger on the main engine battery (without removing it from the truck) for a couple days, then I will immediately take the rig to my Toyota dealer (where it was actually purchased new 19 1/2 years ago) for an oil change and service. I've just finished reading The Complete Idiot's Guide to RVing on my Kindle (how did I ever live without that little toy?) and next year, I will do a few things I did NOT do this year. I will fill up the propane tank and the gas tank, then add a fuel stabilizer to the gas tank. After I have added the stabilizer, I will run the generator for a while to make sure there is no stale gas in the genny's carb. I may also put it up on blocks to take the weight off the tires, but that is a lot of work and I would probably have to take my brother's floor jack to the storage lot to get it done. I may decide that is not worth the effort.

Okay, now I clearly understand the right way to do it! Take out a few inches around the "D" pass-through, then use plywood of the same thickness that is already there, reinforced with fibreglas extending onto the existing material to provide support. If I save the material from the existing "D" mattress cutout to cover the under side, it should end up looking (almost) original. Most of it is probably not beyond my meager abilities (I work in words, not wood and fibreglas!), especially with some help from my handier brother. The trouble is, now that I know how it should be done I'm going to feel like a real schmuck if I cop out by laying a piece of plywood on top of what is already there...

Thank you for sharing! This kind of project is much less daunting if someone else has made a good record (with pictures!) of what they did for reference.

I'm interested to know how this comes out. My '92 Warrior has the original ('91 Toyota) factory cruise control. In the one trip I have taken so far, it seemed to work fairly well... At higher speeds (a good part of the trip was on interstate at 75 mph) and on hills, the speed gradually decreased and I would have to bump it up and set it again. From comments others have made, I thought that might be an artifact of the vacuum-activated cruise control (assuming that is what I have - I don't even know) and I wonder if a more modern electronic cruise control would fix it.

Thanks for the link! That looks like quite a project and it came out great! I hadn't thought about actually rebuilding the bunk area - everything is in such good condition, I hate to tear it up. Still, it could be a neater looking job - and less weight - if I took out the platform that is there and put in a new one with no cutout... I'm likely to go the lazy route, though, and put something on top of the existing platform. My excuse would be that then I or the next owner could always go back to the original configuration if desired.

The original aluminum blinds in my rig are still in perfect condition. However, I still want to replace them because I am so envious of the day/night shades my brother put in his 1990 SeaBreeze. These are available from lots of sources - so far, I haven't found prices better than at Camping World (if you pay to join their "club"). They are a bit pricey, but they are really nice looking and versatile - and they don't rattle and are very easy to use. My brother and his wife have put them in two different motorhomes now with little problems.