Stevo
-
Posts
412 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Events
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Everything posted by Stevo
-
Have you re-filled those small disposable propane tanks from your big propane tanks with a refill kit like this http://www.harborfreight.com/propane-bottle-refill-kit-45989.html before? If so, how do you know when the little tank is full? Thanks Steve
-
What does "WOT" mean and won't holding the accelerator down flood the engine?
-
Instead of a human depressing the accelerator couldn't I do it myself by just turning the linkage on the side of the carb?
-
I think the vehicle was cold when I took that photo and because I have seen the flap on the left closed a lot I assumed that was the choke. Since you guys told me that isn't the choke (and after doing some reading online) I assume I will need to reassess this issue, right? In fact, I have never seen the flap on the left move at all. What should I do next?
-
I just read it and it sounds like it could have been choke or accelerator pump issue which is what JD and someone else here said it could be. Too bad the guy that asked the question on justanswer didn't report what happened. Thank you.
-
Thanks but I don't think the problem is that simple. I wish it were though! By the way everyone... I forgot to mention this before but the seller told me that the Sunrader started fine when cold when he bought it 4 years ago but then his wife passed away and it sat parked in his driveway for as long as 4 months between startups.
-
Thanks everyone for looking this stuff up and providing photos, etc. My head is kind of swimming but if I'm reading correctly there could be 3 possible issues: the choke, the accelerator pump, and/or a dried out diaphragm in the aux accelerator pump. Right? BTW: the carb rebuild guy that wants $500 said on the phone that it sounded like the needle and seat valve to be replaced. Your thoughts? I will check the vacuum hoses because in the photo below I see a couple hoses in the back right that aren't connected and I don't recall pulling those off the air filter housing. You are saying that when I pull the hose off the AAP that gas should NOT come pouring out of the hose? Does it matter if I buy the cheapest carb rebuild kit available? I think the choke is working because the flap on the right does close when I try to start it. Another thing... stomping on the gas a few times before starting does raise the level of fuel in the sight glass. JD, those carb photos you attached look different than my carb. Do you know if the stuff to rebuild the accelerator pump (not the aux accel pump) is included in a regular rebuild kit? Is that the AAP in my photo below?
-
Thanks for your answers and I will ask these two questions again please... 1) Do you think it will be safe enough to work under if I added two more 6 ton jack stands in the back instead of a pile of wood (cuz I doubt I will have enough wood) so there will be a total of six 6 ton jack stands supporting each motorhome? 2) You will see in the photo on my previous post (#53) that I made wedges out of 6 X 8's for the front wheels. Do you think that is secure enough to keep the front from rolling? P.S. I had never heard the term "blue wrench" before but this is what I used and it was amazing! http://www.harborfreight.com/electric-start-propane-torch-91061.html
-
And have you used the oven? I've heard about people using Dutch Ovens to cook all kinds of stuff. Could a Dutch Oven replace a regular oven for smaller stuff or is it only good for cooking beans and stews?
-
I have an 82 5 speed Sunrader with the 22R with 60,000 original miles and it will NOT start when its cold unless I spray starter fluid in the carburetor. Here is what I do to start it when its cold... I spray the stuff in both sides of the carburetor (Aisan carb) and quickly pump the accelerator about 5 times and it starts after about 2 tries with the starter fluid. 3 important things... - I can take my foot off the accelerator within 10 to 15 seconds after starting with no sputtering or stalling. - The vehicle runs great once started with lots of power, zero hesitation, surging, or stalling. - After she's warmed up I can turn OFF the motor and leave for an hour or two and come back and she will start right up without starter fluid. This is what I have done so far and it still requires starter fluid to start it cold... - New spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor cap, rotor, PCV. - New battery (cleaned terminals and cables). - New fuel filter and its two hoses. - New fuel pump (mechanical). - Seafoam treatment in carburator, crankcase, gas tank. Some carb guy here wants $500 to rebuild this Aisan carburator and I really don't want to spend the bucks. Do you have any suggestions for what I should do next? Thanks Steve
-
I jacked up the donor Sunrader today (the 21'er). I found a cool lug nut wrench at Walmart for $16 and an awesome little blow torch at Harbor Freight with an electric starter for only $15. Torching a lug nut for about 5 seconds made those nuts come right off! Seriously, where have I been all my life without a freaking blow torch?! The blocks are 6 X 8's which means two blocks stacked on top of each other is net about 10 1/2" tall plus the height of the 6 ton jack stands. The front stands are 14" in front of the front brackets and are at their lowest setting. The rear stands are 16" aft of the rear brackets and one is at its lowest setting and the other is set to its first click to keep the motorhome level. The bottom of the differential is at least 12" off the ground. Here are my questions please... 1) Based on everything I told you previously, is that high enough to work on? The back tires are about 3" off the ground. It looks like its high enough to me but what do I know?? 2) With one more set of supports behind the current rear jack stands, would you feel safe working under this? 3) I may not have enough big wood to stack for the third row of supports. If I don't, would it be safe enough if I added two more 6 ton jack stands behind the rear jack stands? That would mean there would be 6 one ton jack stand supporting each motorhome. What do you think? 4) You will notice that I used the same 6 X 8 blocks to make 45 degree angle wedges for the front wheels. Is that good enough or do you think I should staple some 2 X material between the front and back wedges? 5) Does heat work to loosen rusty stuff too? I am open to any suggestions you might have because going under there does kinda freak me out and I want it to be as secure as possible. Thanks again guys!
-
The thing is that these lug bolts and nuts aren't rusty at all and the duallys on the drivers side were both removed a month ago. I assumed the nuts come off counter clockwise but I tried both ways. Aren't all of them counter clockwise to remove? Did you use a pneumatic drive to remove your lug nuts? If so, how much psi did you use? If not, what did you use to remove the lug nuts? (I can't find a big "T" shaped lug nut wrench with a 23mm socket!) Do you use one of those blow torches with a propane tank to heat it up?
-
I agree that 4 burners on those stoves in a little motorhome is ridiculous but are you sure the oven wouldn't come in handy once in a while? I'm going to be totally redoing the interior in my Sunrader but am undecided if I should keep the existing stove/oven combo or replace it with a 2 burner Coleman propane or white gas camp stove. I have a 25 year old Coleman propane stove that looks funky with lots of dents but it has never let me down. Can you think of a reason to keep the little oven? Is the oven a joke?
-
Some forums have "Thank you" buttons and this forum needs one. Thanks again guys! Okay, more questions please... 1) Where exactly did you use those spacers? 2) What is the recommended wall thickness for those spacers? 3) What is the recommended material I should get for the spacers? Is zinc plated steel okay like the ones at mcmaster http://www.mcmaster.com/#unthreaded-spacers/=ld9h76 ? 4) I could NOT remove the 1 ton wheel lug nuts with a pneumatic impact drive today set at 100 PSI and then 120 PSI even though I pre-sprayed them with WD-40 (they aren't rusty anyway), and I know the driver side duallys were just removed a couple months ago the day I bought it. How do you guys remove those? What is the recommended PSI for the impact drive? (Some guy at Pep Boys said dually lug nuts could be from 180 PSI to 200 PSI) Should I buy a big pipe to slip over my 18" breaker bar to get leverage? Inquiring freaking minds want to know. =:^P 5) I see your axle breather tube is connected to the top of the differential but where does it go after that? Thanks P.S. Sunrading Arkansas - I forgot to congratulate you before, so CONGRATULATIONS on getting your axle done!
-
Okay thanks again. I will have a mechanic do the u-joints. You said you used 1" spacers for your rear shocks to keep the shocks "true and straight." Are those 1" spacers something I can buy at a regular auto parts store? Did you use Monroe load adjusting shocks for the front shocks too?
-
83 Sunrader Propane (Etc.)
Stevo replied to Sunrading Arkansas's topic in Coach ApplianceTech Issues
I've read horror stories about storing propane bottles horizontally. Can someone please tell me if the way my propane bottles are stored in my 82 Sunrader is okay? (See photos below) Thanks
-
More questions as usual please... 1) What size socket fits the lug nuts on the 1 ton axle wheels? 23mm? 2) I couldn't find a lug nut wrench at Harbor Freight that fits the lug nuts on the 1 ton axle. Where can I buy a lug nut wrench that will fit? 3) Should I replace the u-joints even though both Sunraders have only 60,000 original miles on them? 4) How much did the u-joints cost you? 5) When ordering new u-joints, should I ask for "u-joints for an 82 Toyota pickup truck" - or something different since I will now be connecting the drive shaft to a 1 ton differential? 6) Is a torque wrench required when replacing the u-joints? 7) What is the Axle Breather for? Thanks again
-
Did you specify that the "rear leaf spring bushing kit" you ordered was for a Toyota pickup truck with a 1 ton axle? You said "the front has bushings same as the rear" meaning that the front bracket has bushings but they are NOT the same as the rear bracket, right? I need clarification because the front bracket on both of my Sunraders is totally different than the rear bracket which makes me think the bushings would be totally different too??
-
Okay, a couple more questions please and thanks again. 1) To avoid getting the wrong parts, did you take the bracket into O'Reillys (or the spring shop) when you ordered the polyurethane bushings for the bracket connecting the rear leaf springs to the frame? 2) I don't remember now and can't tell by the photo (below) but does the front bracket have bushings too?
-
I learned living in Hawaii to never ignore scratches through paint or little rust spots because I know they turn into gaping holes later, but I'm not sure if I should be concerned about surface rust on the frame of this motorhome that scales off with my fingers?? Anyone know? I plan on traveling a lot through the rainy tropics near the ocean so would it be wise for me to wire brush the chassis and paint it with Rustoleum Rust Converter?
-
As always, I really appreciate everyones input here - thank you! I spent time under both motorhomes today familiarizing myself and have questions please... 1) Will the 18'ers drive shaft connect to the "new" 1 ton differential without modifications? 2) The bolts that formally connected the 21'ers drive shaft to its 1 ton differential are missing. Will the same 4 bolts that currently connect the 18'ers drive shaft to its 1/2 ton differential also work to connect the 18'ers drive shaft its "new" 1 ton differential? 3) What is the recommended fluid to use for the 1 ton diff? Should I replace the old diff fluid with new during the swap? 4) Will the rear brackets that the 1 ton axles leaf springs are attached to fit on the 18'er? 5) The 2 rubber bushings on each bracket that the leaf springs attach to are old and cracked. Any suggestions for where I should get new bushings and the type I should get (for the 1 ton)? 6) What do you suggest I use to prevent the front wheels from rolling? With no parking brake it seems like 4x4's wouldn't be secure enough. 7) The floor jack I borrowed is a 3 ton. Is that okay to use since I will only be raising it a bit at a time? 8) I only have 1 floor jack so do you think a couple cheap 4 wheel dollys with plywood on the top of them would work to roll the axles out? 9) Someone suggested I should leave the wheels attached and wheel each axle out the back and then wheel it to the next motorhome. I told him that I wouldn't feel comfortable working down there with no jack stands behind the axle. Have you heard of anyone doing an axle swap/replacement like that? 10) Sorry if you already mentioned this, but did you guys use wood blocks next to the same points you had all of your jack stands? 11) Any suggestions for finding big blocks of wood? It is the one thing I'm still missing... Thanks again. Steve
-
Okay thanks, that is all good stuff to know. I scrounged up a 3 ton floor jack and two 6 ton jack stands. I'm waiting to hear back from someone else about how many tons his four jack stands can do (I'm hoping they are 6 ton). I read that you used 6 jack stands, but what do you think about using only four 6 ton jacks PLUS wood blocks for each vehicle?
-
Because I misunderstood you when you said this... "When I swapped axles on mine - I took the old one out sideways and put the new one in - sideways. Just fed it through the spring perches. I find it easier to go in sideways then from the back - unless you're doing it with springs and all (still bolted to the rear)." How many humans did it take to manhandle the axle out and then put the new one in? Did you pull off the wheels first?
-
I have never used a floor jack before but I'm hoping I can borrow one. Exactly where do you put the floor jack to raise up the motorhome enough to get the floor jacks and blocks underneath?
-
Are you saying that you replaced the axle without removing the leaf springs? Do you think I could do the same with the swap between two vehicles that I need to do, or are the springs on the 1/2 ton not substantial enough for the 1 ton axle? And would adding extra leafs (like you did) make the 1/2 springs work with the 1 ton axle? Did you place the wood blocks behind the rear axle?
