bestbowl
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Posts posted by bestbowl
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The boiler on the frig is powered by electric or propane. I would say, put your hand on the boiler, if its hot, and the coach is level, you may be in line for a new frig. Mine may be different, but its the large tube thing on the right.
I suspect with the "gurgling" sounds, you might be up a creek.
However, it is coincidental that the furnace seemed like it went belly up at the same time.
FURNACE
yours may be different, but this is how mine cycles
do a call for heat (crank up the thermostat), the blower should come on (combustion chamber purge cycle) and run. About 10 - 15 seconds after the blower starts, you should hear a "click" of the gas valve opening and then the igniter will start sparking for a few seconds. If it doesn't succeed in lighting, it will turn off the igniter and gas, but the blower keeps running.
A couple notes, There is a "sail" switch that tells the furnace controller that the blower is running, if the 12 volts is low and the blower isn't running fast enough to energize this switch, OR, as Totem said, if the intake or exhaust are restricted and there isn't enough air to energize the sail switch, then the furnace will not open the gas valve or try and ignite.
Good luck with it.
John Mc
88 Dolphin 4 Auto
The fridge boiler is hot when on gas. Haven't felt it on electric yet. It gurgles the entire time though. I will check out the sail switch. Where do I find it or check if its functioning? Ive tried the heater on and off 20 times and let it run for a minute to 20 minutes. All same result. Cold air.
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^ what waiter said. If your fridge like a Dometic for example says "AES" this stands for automatic energy selector. In theory the fridge will select its source based on 1.) safety 2.) highest output availability and 3.) energy availability. Thus it will seek to pezo ignite the propane heating element first UNLESS the engine has just started or stopped in 3 minutes or less. This is important for folks to remember as it burns you if you are unaware and will switch to 12 volt and erode capacitance of your 12 volt coach battery during gasoline fill ups and if you are running an inverter while driving for sure will kill the battery. (unless of course you have that sexy beefed up alternator I have been wanting so badly). So if you are plugged into shore power it will STILL seek propane first and if fails to ignite then will go to 110 and if that goes out to 12 volt (which will give you about 10 minutes before battery dies below what the converter allows service for.) symptoms of a dead battery are: 1.) water pump wont cycle, lights are dim, cigarette lighter socket in coach (not dash lighter which is off the engine battery) has no service etc.
As for the furnace blowing cold air; you have few reasons: 1.) no propane, 2. ) failure to ignite from pezo bad ignitor or wiring 3.) no fresh air to burn (bees nest in air flute etc)
I personally think you have several problems (due to the age of the vehicle). I would focus on whats good Does your stove top burners light? Yes, scratch of reason 1 and check for 2 & 3 on furnace. No, then that explains it; you are out of propane.
Thanks for the advice Ya Babe. Again, all of the obvious were went thru with a fine tooth within the first 5 minutes of the problem. I think it is more like a freon/elemental/wiring issue. I was wondering if they share some sort of same circuitry of heating element (although they are on different sides of the coach. I think this may be a bit harder to track than a dead battery or an empty propane bottle. ;-)
P.S. I did go for the sexy 1 million amp alternator. It was actually my first purchase the same day that I picked the RV up. Ive been running it for two years. I haven't actually noticed a huge difference. I may need to install some sexy 1 gauge wire for the thing to see the difference. I still kill batts right and left. I do run a really sexy 5000 watt stereo/sub system though. ;-)
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My first thought is your out of propane, does the stove work?
I'm not sure if your frig does an automatic changeover from gas to elec, and back. You might get the model # and find the manual on line. Same with the furnace.
My frig is manual, I have to turn a knob to select GAS or ELEC, then I must manually light the frig if its on GAS. Kind of like lighting a pilot light, I need to hold one button in while pressing (clicking) the other until it lights, then release the button after a few seconds.
Regardless, The frig must be level in order to work on gas or electric, if its not level, it won't work. gurgling sounds is not good. ALSO - keep in mind its not like a home frig, it can take 15 - 30 minutes to start getting cold (feel the fins inside the freezer)
Furnace - Not sure what model you have. but on mine - the furnace will make only one attempt to light when it gets a call for heat , if it fails, the blower keeps running and runs down the battery. The only way to reset it is to turn the thermostat down so the blower stops, then try again. The blower will stop in about 30 seconds after the call for heat is removed. i.e. the thermostat turned down.
Again, make sure the stove lights, this is a good indicator if you have propane.
I always light my stove for a few seconds to "purge" the propane line anytime I change tanks, or if I've had the propane off for more than a few days.
John Mc
88 Dolphin 4 Auto
Thank you for the advice Waiter. I've been in these vehicles for nearly 20 years so I am very familiar with all that you stated. You listed all of the obvious causes all of which I checked 20 times over right off the bat. I think I'm searching for the less obvious causes.
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Any connection? They were both working great on Friday night and on Saturday morning the fridge stopped working on both gas and electric modes and makes a constant gurgling sound and the coach heater blows cold air even if left on for an hour. Any connection? Any ideas what gurgling and/or cold heater air could mean?
Thank you
1993 Warrior
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something is not right somewhere (obviously!) if you bypass it it will remain "locked" power to it "unlocks"it. where are you located at? maybe figure this thing out over the phone worst case scenario. typing back and forth is so counterproductive when you are working on something chasing leads.
I am Cali. Do you have a cell?
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column shift or on the floor?
either way I bet it is related to the shift lock solenoid(most likely) , I had the switch (brake pedal to unlock shifter) that activates that solenoid go out on me in a 93 Range Rover on a road trip to Vancouver Canada (from St.louis) in Lincoln Nebraska, test the brake light switch and check to see you have power to that and the the part that unlocks the shift mechanism, usually the system uses a constant 12 volts then grounds when brake light switch is applied. if you need the schematics I can get them for you and what wire colors to test.
Auto/column shift.
Yeah, whatever you can get me would be great. It's been nearly a year I've been dealing with this. Think I can just replace solenoids and/or bypass wires? I would do anything that costs less than the $500.00 to $1000.00 it'll cost to bring it into Toyota which will have to happen in May if I cannot get it by then....
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unless the pawl in the tranny is somehow hanging (not likely) I am guessing you have a switch issue - if you check your brake pedal for a switch (or more then 1) that activates when the brake pedal is depressed you may find a starting point. if you have 1 switch & would verify your brake lights work - if they do then the interlock (probably in steering column) would be where I go next. No brake lights means a bad switch right there.
2 switches goes the same way - basic troubleshooting with a multimeter and bypassing switches should determine if the issue is down by your foot.
i have a 93 warrior - when I go by it next (i na few days) i will look at mine.
Did you ever get a chance to check this out?
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My 1994 Warrior keeps locking into park and sometimes it takes 30 minutes of tugging to get it out. Now I just leave it in neutral when parked (which is pretty darned sketchy). Any ideas what would cause this? The transmission shifts smoothly, the fluid is full and clean and otherwise has zero issues.
Thank you
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i dont know if any of those have a step on foot brake first too unlock theshift after moter start i have a 2004 dodge that way
I am thinking that is the only thing that could be hanging it up...? Just don't know if it's only an electronic/solenoid issue or a mechanical/cable etc...?
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My on-the-column gear shifter is stuck in park and won't move on my 1994 Winnebego/Toyota Warrior. I disassembled the column covering and kick panel and checked if the key release/lock is functioning and it is. It releases the shifter when the key is in but the shifter still sticks in park. The only thing I can think of is that there is some sort of brake solenoid release/electrical issue hanging it up. I can shift after about 50 tries (shaking it around violently) or once every 10 starts and stops (putting it from drive to park). Any idea what this could be?
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Maineah,
I do not have capacitors. You think this will help? Maybe I will instal them if so. Can I feed the coach battery with a #2 (or more likely a #4?) directly from the positive terminal of the truck battery? And/or should I feed it with the new isolator?
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The alt wire is a single #4 directly to the battery. It seems as the other harness of three wires may be the sensor you were talking about...?
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Okay.
Which one of these do you think is best suited?
http://www.bestconverter.com/PowerMax-PM3B-100-100-Amp-3-Stage-Converter-Charger_p_472.html
http://www.bestconverter.com/100-Amp-Power-Converter_p_371.html
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WIll this converter work?
I will have to buy a new voltmeter on Monday and I will post the readings.
It's hard to see the actual size of the factory alt wire as it's enclosed in a protective plastic sheath. If it's alone in there it looks to be either #6 or #8 wire. There is a separate harness with 3 #18 or so wires-yellow with a red stripe, red and white (which may or may not be your "remote sense" wiring). So with this combo I don't know if it clarifies if the charging wire is alone in the sheath or wrapped up with the remote sense making the positive only #10. I may have to just tear into it and see...
As far as the coach #10 positive; do you think I should bypass it and run #4?
With the factory circuitry, panel, etc., would this even make a difference or would I need to upgrade everything to make the #10 to #4 positive wiring upgrade worth while/make any difference?
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Hi Maineah,
I am going to get the converter next week. I just dropped $160.00 on the damn isolator (which I think with the 180 amp alternator upgrade and the battery issue was a good investment), $200.00 on the alternator and $800.00 on the generator.
I have the Honda 2000i generator. Do you think that the 55 amp converter is sufficient or do you recommend a 60 or 70? I just don't want to go big if its unnecessary especially after blowing a chuck of change on the isolator. At the same time it would be moronic of me to buy the 55 if I could really use a 60 or 70 for a couple bucks more.
Thanks
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NOTE - Let me know when you go camping, because I don't want to be in the same county with your 2000 watt stereo
I HATE earphones.
The stereo is used to DJ at music festivals and for driving.
I usually don't crank the full two grand in the woods.
I may upgrade the #4 to #2 if they have #2 in welding wire which I am not sure that they do. The amps have zero issues running full power with the #4 other than the draining the battery when the truck is off. Which I am pretty sure that that rewire wouldn't remedy...?
I use the inverter becasue I have a honda gen that I can only run while stationary. I use the bikes constantly and they mostly need to be charged between runs.
The alternator is connected via the factory wiring harness. Are you suggesting I rewire it? I am not a huge fan of messing with mid-90s Japanese computer controlled wiring harnesses. On my '67 Camaro I would be more apt to bypass electrical stuff, but on this....
P.S. One more interesting point. Why is the factory wiring to the coach battery 10 gauge to the positive and #2 to the negative? Shouldn't be reversed if not both #2 or #4? 10 gauge is ridiculous for the coach...
Readings done with a voltmeter that doesn't read decimal. It seems to be mostly an A/C voltmeter.
a) No loads, no shore power, no genset power, truck not running Truck 12 Coach 12
No loads plugged into shore power (no genset, no truck) 12/13
c) No loads genset running (no shore, no truck) 12/13
d) No loads Truck running (no genset, no shore) 14/13
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Sounds good. I will post the results.
I am using #4 wire directly from the truck battery to the 750 power inverter/bike batteries. Is it okay to be wired to the truck battery and not directly to the alternator? And it's a 180 amp alternator not a 160. If I rewire the stereo to the coach battery I am afraid that the alternator will not charge it fast enough. It's a 2000 watt constant draw and it's always on while the truck is running (and not running as well ;-)
Do you think that it would be okay even at 2000 watts? It seems that the alternator charges the coach battery very slowly. I have not yet changed the isolator so maybe this will change...
I was considering putting the stereo system on a switch so that I can switch between the truck battery while running and the coach battery while not. That way it will basically run from the generator while the truck is off...?
It seems either way I need to upgrade the converter as well.
P.S. by "deep cycling" are you referring to charging the batteries with an external battery charger?
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Hi John,
I don't run the generator while driving. I run the 750 power inverter connected via 4 gauge wire directly to the truck battery while driving. I think the main problem is that I run the stereo which is also connected to the truck battery with the engine off. Sometimes I run the generator while I am playing the stereo and the truck is off but it doesn't seem to charge the truck battery at all.
And when I get home I plug in the A/C power cord and it doesn't charge the batteries fully either.
EIther way both the truck and the coach battery are never fully charging although they are both new and in good condition. The only way to charge them completely is directly with an external battery charger plugged in at home. The truck battery will charge after an hour or so of driving on the freeway if it's fully drained. But the coach battery never fully charges either via generator, alternator or A/C power cord and the generator doesn't keep the truck battery charged with the stereo running while the truck is off.
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Sounds good. Will do. Can you recommend a good converter that will fit into the same spot as the original? Also do you think 55 amps is okay for my application or should I go 60 or more?
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Thanks for all the info John. I bought the isolator because I kept killing both batteries because the generator was never fully charging them even if I ran it for 8 hours. I just figured it may be a bum isolator. The coach battery was dying by charging electric bicycle batteries while driving. And the truck battery was being quickly killed by running a high wattage stereo system while the truck was not running. I also installed a 180 amp alternator in hopes that it would charge quicker and to a higher capacity especially because there is a 2000 watt stereo system installed and I regularly charge electric bicycle batteries that pull 500 watts for 4 to 8 hours (although I only do this while driving 40+mph). So I figured if I have a 180 amp alternator I should have a 180 amp isolator...?
I figured that the isolator was not functioning properly because the batteries actually never charged completely even under normal use (even pre stereo/bike batteries and either under alternator or generator power). How do I know if I need to replace the converter and if the converter is even functioning properly? The plate says it's a 32 amp series 6300 A model 6332.
Thanks again.
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Hi,
Thanks for all the info. Been running the crappy little aluminum/silverish stick one. Doesn't seem to charge either battery although I tested it and it is putting out a charge. Haven't tested actual amperage- just power with a cheapy power indicator light.
I just bought this one although I am sure it is overkill. I am hoping it will charge both... What do you think?
http://www.boaterbarn.com/promariner_proisocharge_12v_battery_isolator_79394_prd1.htm
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I was wondering if the generator charges the car battery and/or the auxiliary battery in a 1994 Winnebego/Toyota Warrior or if only the engine alternator does the job?
Thank you
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What was the cost of the new alternator? Does the larger alternator use more of the engines HP?
90 bucks
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Thanks for the info. It makes more since now. I will keep the OEM isolator till I get back from the road in Sept. and then put in a larger amp rated one. I just hope my MH doesn't "burn to the ground"... ;-)
Fridge & Heater Went at Same Time?
in Coach ApplianceTech Issues
Posted
Thank you. Got the heater to work. Don't know how. Just kicked on. The fridge is beat I think. Tried everything. Is there some part on the fridge that is infamous for going first or do I just need pull the entire thing and spend a few thousand to get an entire new one?