gene j

Derek, Don't know why it was doing this but that next morning if filled the gas tank up and it stopped doing it...I guess it wasn't related to the steering stabilizer at all, it's just that it started to do this right after the install and test ride. I'm at a loss but hoping it won't happen anymore. Thanks for your input.

No help from anyone?

Today I replaced the steering stabilizer on my 92 Dolphin v6. The old one was really shot....it had no resistance at all and was the OE unit. I took it for a long ride down the freeway and on the return I noticed the engine would bog down when I made a turn and then accelerated. This has never happened before. Is there any reason the new stabilizer could cause this to happen? It appears to have something to do when I turn. Going straight doesn't present any problems. When I had some recent work done at the Toyota dealership, I asked the mechanic about this apparatus that is on the fender well under the hood behind the battery. It had some vacuum lines going to it. Mine was destroyed as the previous owner had a battery blow up and made quite a mess in that area under the hood. Anyway, the mechanic asked if I had any problems when turning and I said no. He said not to worry about the destroyed part then. Now I'm wondering if this new stabilizer and the new resistance in the steering makes the missing part critical. This part looked like some sort of valve with what looked like an adjusting knob and a little air filter on it. It was hard to tell as the part was pretty well melted. Anyway, if anyone has info that could help me I would certainly appreciate it.

Thanks Derek, Those links are helpful and I'll give it a shot. If I run into any big problems I'll post again. Again, thanks. Gene

I was thinking of removing my fridge and doing some bench work on it but wasn't sure how difficult it would be. Looking in the access panel I can see you would have to unplug electric and disconnect gas line. There are two screws in the rear on the runners that go into the wooden base that I see when looking in from the outside access panel. After that I'm not sure what else would have to be done. Are there more than the two screws I see from the back? If anyone has any insight on this I would certainly appreciate it. I had forgotten about the vent to the roof. Is that very difficult to deal with?

FYI I took my 92 Dolphin to a muffler/repair shop here in Nevada (I know that's too far for you). They did a very nice job of replacing the muffler and tailpipe, doing the pipe bending in their shop. The total cost was around $148, which I thought was worth it since the original stuff looked pretty rusted together. They were also able to utilize the original hangers for the tailpipe, this I requested in the beginning. I think you need to find a shop that has a drive on lift though. This shop was working on a small city bus when I arrived. They had the right facilities for the job. All the regular muffler shops locally, like Midas, etc., didn't have the drive on lift needed. Master Transmission & Automotive Centers - www.mastermta.com 3344 North Rancho Drive, Las Vegas - (702) 876-3200 3 reviews, directions, hours, and more »

I would just like to comment on how different my rig feels with new shocks. It is just unbelievable....apparently the shocks that were on it must have been the factory originals (1992), or at least they felt like it. Driving with them was like walking around in a row boat. I put 4 Monroe gas shocks on a few days ago (there are probably better shocks available but these were what came up on line at the shock place for $143) and it is like driving an entirely new vehicle. I am amazed and now find myself taking the Dolphin on all kinds of local trips, like to the grocery store and etc. It wasn't as easy as it thought it would be to change them as I had a few frozen bolts on the front units but I managed to get it done. As I said, what a difference. Gene

Thanks Dennis, I will do that as soon as possible..

Thanks for the info, I will do this and let you know what I find out. I mentioned a problem with the thermostat on another recent reply here and am checking that out also.

Now that you've mentioned the thermostat, I have noticed that the thermostat dial on the front of the fridge will turn 360º and never hit a stop point.....doesn't seem normal. If something is wrong it looks like quite a job to get to the thermostat itself...it doesn't seem easily accessible from the back or the front. My extension cord is very heavy duty and I've been very careful to feel the temp of the cord when it is connected, both at the fridge end and the wall outlet end and it doesn't feel no more that casually warm. Perhaps the thermostat is the problem but would that not affect the gas setup as well or would it just go the the temp setting that it is possible broken at and cool to that setting? I'm going to recheck the element again following instructions from Maineah as well.

I will do that....thanks for all the useful info....

My airbags work pretty well independently...I've watched each side go up and down. I have a small 12v compressor and the gauge indicates how much air is in them...work pretty well. Do you have a picture of Lego style levelers? Gene

Isn't that the truth....with all the thought put into designing these rigs I would think that someone would have a system where the fridge could be adjusted to level independent of the rig...maybe there are some reasons why this isn't possible but if so, they are beyond my knowledge.

Thanks for the tip..I'll try one.

I will try these and get back to you....thanks for the help.

The fridge plugs in to the outlet that is behind the unit and seen when the exterior access door is removed just as you said. The GFI is located inside the coach on the cabinet under the sink area...this is on the exterior part of the cabinet, not inside anything....it is just a regular GFI outlet like you might see in your kitchen or bathroom at home. When I am connected to shore power and put the fridge on electric it will throw the GFI after about 5-7 minutes, and I loose power to all the outlets in the coach until I reset it. I unplugged the fridge from it's outlet and plugged it in via extension cord to my garage outlet, bypassing the shore plug hookup system. It threw the GFI in the garage also after about 5-7 minutes. I then removed the heating element as I mentioned to Greg and connected the two wire from the element to a universal plug and plugged it into the garage outlet directly....it immediately got very hot and did not throw any GFI or breakers. Greg mentioned some other checks of continuity that I could do on the element, like checking between each individual wire and the element housing itself. I haven't had a chance to do that yet. I did put a new GFI in, a 20 amp model just as was in there before, but the same thing happened.

Yes, looking at the last picture on your link, page sa140, it is the thing sticking out of the top of the housing....being a vent makes sense just never saw that before on a diff housing....there is a lot of old looking dirty oil on the housing around that area, but none leaking. Would you say it just vented out when being topped off by some lube person? Thanks for the info....you sure have access to a lot of info on these vehicles.

I took two photos of my rear differential looking at it from the drivers side behind the rear wheels. There is quite a bit of oil on the housing, mostly on the drivers side. It hasn't leaked anything since I bought the rig. There is a plug sticking out of the top of the differential that I don't recognize what it does. It appears to have popped out....not sure thought....can anyone tell by the attached photos what this is for? Gene Well, I was going to attach two photos but I can't seem to figure out how to do it......and I worked in IT for several years...can someone help me? I've read what Greg has posted under "file and photos" but still not sure how to post two images here.

That's what I was thinking...a couple of scissors jacks....checking out the electronic 12 v scissors jacks from harbor freight but they are $59 per, not 2 for $40

I can only find the above at $59 per....

I removed the heating element and hot wired it...it worked fine and stayed hot for an hour and did not throw any breakers on my garage circuit ( I had verified the ohms with the meter earlier) and that should eliminate the element. Put a new GFI in (20 amp). Put element back in and bypassed everything by plugging the fridge plug directly into a house circuit......threw the breaker in about 5 minutes. It appears something before the element is not functioning correctly....not sure were to go from here. Of course the gas works and I can get by with that, but its just I like everyting to work....part of the fun...any advice? Haven't found any web sites with fridge info that relates directly to what's happening to me....

Maineah, Thanks for the info....I'm going to follow the directives offerd by the links I've found. Haven't been able to find any pictures of the heating element...I may be doing a poorly defined search..don't know...anyway, I'm headed for the tool shed and giving it a shot....I'll let you know how it turns out.

Greg, I do have airbags and used them for leveling on our trip. I had no air in one and 60lbs in the other. Wondering if I should pump them to max (it says 90 lbs) and see what happens. Of course I need to make sure the fridge is level...

I'm sure this question has come up before, but being fairly new I haven't been able to find an answer. After our first outing with the newly purchased 92 Dolphin, the only big problem was the fridge not getting cold. On gas, and at home we tried again after making sure it was level as possible....after an overnight wait it was good and cold. The problem occurs when I switch to electric...I shut of the gas, turn the switch to electric, and after a few minutes the breaker in the plug that looks like it is probably a GFI and is located below the sink cabinet pops out. I'm assuming the fridge is pulling too many amps....is this something common? I'm figuring I will have to be off to the shop if I want this diagnosed correctly. After reading some info on dometic sites and being not that electrically inclined, it seems the correct diagnosing is beyond my expertise. Also, I'm on the older 6300 converter, not sure if that would make a difference. Would appreciate any guidance. Gene J

Just a follow up....I'm going to leave the tranny alone...also, found a shop that put on a new muffler and new tailpipe (had to be formed) for only $140....I thought that was cool...this shop is called Master Transmission and it's on N. Rancho Road in Las Vegas NV..... if anyone is in this area and needs some service I would give them a try: Master Transmission & Automotive Centers - www.mastermta.com 3344 North Rancho Drive, Las Vegas - (702) 876-3200 I dealt with Bill Gross who seemed to be in charge. He had a good sense of humor. It's good to know of a place that can easily get these rigs in and lifted when the need arises. Went on a short test trip (first one) to Pahrump NV, or "over the hump to Pahrump" as they say here in Vegas, and stayed at Terrible Herbst RV Park....it was nice but I have to say I was the smallest rig there. An ant among goliaths....but mine is paid for...need to do some research on some jacks that will keep the rocking down. The toyota ran fine though.