gene j
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Posts posted by gene j
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Your water temperature thermostat should turn off the main burner flame when it hits the set water temperature and only the pilot flame should remain on until the water temperature falls below the set temperature. You can try turning the thermostat down to its lowest setting but it sounds like maybe you have a bunk thermostat. If it keeps running too long the pressure/temperature relief valve should open to blow off the excess water pressure.You would then see hot water venting outside the tank and onto the ground outside. You can observe the pilot and burner flame behind the door. My water heater gets done heating in under 10 minutes.
I'll turn it on and let it run and see what happens...do you know if the thermostat is adjustable?
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Should the water heater on my 92 Dolphin cycle on and off like my water heater at home? When i start it up the water certainly gets hot but the heater seems to stay on...I can hear the flame going strong. I haven't let it run for any great length of time as I always end up shutting it down out of apprehension, but I think I've let it run long enough that it would turn off by itself if it was working correctly. I'm just not sure how to check it out....does anyone have any input for me...thanks.
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The top edge of your awning goes in that chanel, I purchased a awning, installed it my self for under $500. Dealer wanted $1200. Only needed 2 hrs, and after doing it I could probible install one in under 45 min.
A Proper awning, easy to open and close (takes about 1.5 min.) . awning keeps the dew off your furniture, gives you a place to sit in the rain, and keeps the sun from baking you. a place to hang your lights from. I would never be with out one.
PS if you need more info or tips on install E Mail me at pdinc2@msn.com
Dale
From WI
Do you have any literature or links that show the awning you used?
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A much easier and less expensive option is an EZ Up canopy. It stows in it's own bag easily inside, doesn't require drilling more holes into the coach and will probably save you $500+ compared to buying an awning that mounts. I use one and it works quite easily. Link to some here:
That's actually what I've been using, but the awning seems like it would be a better choice. Not sure if I want to invest the kind of money I've been quoted though.
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Well, there is one other option that I don't really consider a 'proper' fix, more of a 'Band-Aid'. You could always try a pair of 'helper springs' that clamp to your existing leaf springs. I've even heard of people installing 2 sets, 1 in front and 1 behind the axle.
http://www.jcwhitney...cwx?filterid=j1
Those springs certainly seem like they would help...thanks for the links....I'll give it a couple of more months and if things don't jar loose I'll just live with it. If not, I'll try the springs. Thanks again.
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Mine has 8 leaves in the rear springs and the back sits higher then the front (I actually have to raise the front to make it level when I park) and it rides hard but hey it's a truck. I would not call the ride unbearable but you know when you go over a bump so if your air bags work for you that's probably as good as it gets.
Thanks for the info. I was just concerned that the hard ride would jar things loose. I'm probably just being over cautious...thanks again.
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Well, if you don't want to raise the rear with the air springs then the only other choice I see is to either re-arch the springs or have new ones made.
I guess I'll just ride out the bumps, thanks.
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I had a very nice rack welded to the rear of my 92 Dolphin. It took some extensive shop welding to do it right but it did add some weight to the back. Does anyone know how I would lift the back up without loosing the efficiency of my new shock absorbers. I do have airbags and usually keep them about 50lbs around town and higher when loaded on a trip...the problem with that is the ride is pretty rough over any bumps. The airbags do give me the lift I need but I was wondering if there would be some more permanent fix that would lift without compromise on the ride, leaving the airbags free for loaded trips? When the air is out of the bags it just looks like its a bit too low.
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I would really like to have an awning installed. There is a lip that runs across the top where an awning would install, not sure if that is the function for it, but it doesn't appear that there ever was an awning. Can anyone give me some input on how to approach this?
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I put 4 Monroe gas magnums on my 92......made all the difference in the world.....also replaced the steering shock with a Monroe...the price was right for me. Put them on myself...it was a little bit of work because the original factory shocks were still there and the fittings were very tight. Certainly worth the money though.
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I had mine done. I think it was around 400 - 500. Did it a year ago combined with new front brake calipers rotors and pads. Can't remember the itemized costs. The new shims are pricey but its mostly labor. I looked at the engine and said NO-WAY, i'll let the expert do it.
That's exactly what I thought "no way"....thanks for the info
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91 v6 what would you expect the cost to be for a valve adjustment? Looks like a lot of work to get to the valves.
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If it is a valve noise there simple enough to check, of course taking all the stuff off the top of the eng is time comsuming just to get to the valve covers, they use shims for adjustment. If yours is getting normal gas mileage 12 to 14mpg I would think its not a serious problem.
If you plan on doing this you could order a tool to compress the lifter so the shim can be removed & replaced.
If you read my post to Derek you'll see the situation. I could have probably put some reconditioned heads or something on when the motor was apart but not sure if that would have had to go through Toyota, probably so since they were doing the recall. That put's it out of the ballpark as far as $$$$. I'm getting good gas mileage and have made several trips to local camping spots in the mountains so there was a lot of climbing though not any great distances....ran like a champ other than the valve noise becoming more obvious when it would downshift up the hills.
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How many miles on the engine and do you have any idea if the valve clearances have ever been adjusted?
The engine 98k, had the head gasket recall done at 96k, about 4-5 months ago. They had it all apart and I saw the heads sitting on the mechanic's bench. Not sure if valve adj is included in that recall...I know certain things were extra. It has always sounded the same, even after the engine was apart. I would seem a shame I missed an opportunity like that to have the valves adjusted or they might have mentioned it if it was extra.
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My 91 v6 makes a tapping sound that increases with rpm. It sounds like a single lifter to me. It isn't always very loud and it doesn't affect the engine performance, at least as far as I can tell. I'm wondering what I should be aware of regarding this noise. I've put about 2,000 miles on the Dolphin since I bought it and it runs great, just concerned about this tapping. Has anyone else had experience with this problem, and if so what did you do.
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FYI: Today, 9/22/10, I went to Harbor Freight to buy two of their $29.95 RV leveling scissors jacks and I noticed their 12 v electric scissors jacks that were originally selling for around $70 were on clearance for $19.95. I bought two figuring at that price they would be worth a try (they said I could return with receipt). They have their limitations on height and only provide 4000 lbs lift if extended beyond 6 inches, max is about 13 inches; for minor leveling they worked fine. I placed them under the cab frame just in front of the rear wheels and had them extended beyond 6 inches before they met the frame. They worked pretty cool. I read somewhere on this site where someone had actually mounted them under the frame with the controls wired into the coach. Doesn't seem to hard to do but I'm going to keep mine in the plastic cases they come in. They also included extra fuses and an adapter with battery clamps on one end and a female 12v receptacle on the other. I also bought the $29.95 RV jacks just in case as they have a 5000 lb lift capacity. I'm sure they will be out of them soon so if interested you better hurry.
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It most likely is getting air mixed in with the fuel. Stock tank or a bigger one?
It is the stock tank....removing the gas cap always gives the hiss of air being released....don't know if that means anything.
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My 92 Dolphin bogs down when I turn and then accelerate and it seems to do this only when the fuel gauge is at about 1/8 of a tank. If I fuel up it stops. Could the engine actually be getting gas starved when I turn on a low fuel level.
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I have a older 2.5K Kohler it does the job but I wouldn't use it in a campground if their others camped its loud only use it out the way places when its hot,if it goes out,will probably get the Honda 2000 for the 9000btu ac. The mounting on the rear bumper with the weight bouncing as you drive down the road?? the rear frame on ours 21ft Winnie is not good for any extra weigh, I would put it in the side compartment and fab a slide to pull it out and a leg to drop down for support for using it. Just my thoughts.
I want to mount the generator on the rear also. Went to a long time welding shop here and spoke to the owner. He's done quite a few of these. He starts by welding reinforcement from the truck frame and incorporate that into the existing coach frame. The extension frame material they use for the coach is much lighter gauge than the truck frame, as you probably already know. From there he is going to build me a rear storage rack. He assures me that this will be plenty strong and handle the weight bounce okay. I want to mount a 110 lb generator back there, and have some room for a couple of bikes. Bringing it in on Monday for the work. It's not cheap. $125 for the reinforcing and another $250 for the rack. Oh well, I live in the Nevada desert and there's plenty of outback territory to plant yourself on for the night. Tired of hauling the gen in and out of the coach. I also want to be able to run the A/C occasionally while driving. It's plenty warm here....today was 106 and that's the summer norm. I'll let you know how it comes out.
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Here is a closeup of the idle up. Your going to want to get the whole assembly from the wrecker, about a million bucks from the toyota dealer. Believe it or not my rig did not have it installed. My original A/C was after market. Long story shortened I put toyota factory air in and had to find that part at the junkers. It actually came out of a 4runner. There are a bunch of hoses so you need to make sure you get them all and before you remove them from the donor make a map / drawing of where they go.
Yes, that's the piece i was talking about. Mine has a lot of damage from the battery exploding as I mentioned above. The screw part is completely melted but I do believe the vacuum hoses are still connected. There is a little, what looks like air filter or something, that is also attached to it and is damaged. I guess I'll be making a trip to the junkyard.
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Sorry to cut in on this topic but I'm wondering if your Honda generator would be able to power a roof AC. If so, when you say that it has an electric start does it have to be plugged into an electric outlet to get it going?
I'm actually looking for a generator (reasonably priced) that we can use for our A/C and that is light enough for two women to lift up (we're are not extremely strong!!).
Thanks for any help you can give us.
Christine
You might look at this unit, http://store.jandsrvparts.com/gr-3500rv.html
It weight 110 lbs and will power a roof A/C. Sam's Club has the same unit except it's not the RV model for $409.
The Honda would be the one to get but they are very expensive.
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Hate to say it but I think you have to have someone weld you up a platform that attaches to the frame at the rear. Those dolphin bumpers look nice though! I plan to do just the same except that I have a normal bumper so I will be able to weld up a square tube platform. I'll actual extend the bumper back about 20 inches. Going to put on a Honda EU3000iSA as it is super quiet with electric start. Weighs in at about 140 pounds.
I imagine you've already seen the Honda Handi, the same unit but lighter with wheels and handle, http://www.hondapowerequipment.com/products/modeldetail.aspx?page=modeldetail§ion=P2GG&modelname=EU3000i%20Handi&modelid=EU3000iHAN
I sure would like that unit but way way out of my range. The rear bumber does look nice but I would trade it in a minute for a real bumper and ladder. I'll check with some welding shops. Thanks.
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I'll bet your part is the remains of a cruse control actuator.
Could be....if I could figure out how to upload a picture I'd send one. I'm leaving well enough alone right now. Thanks for your input.
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My 1992 Dolphin doesn't have a rear bumper or ladder. I have a portable generator that weighs 110 lbs and would like to somehow carry it on the rear of the rig. I've even thought of attaching it to the front but don't know how that would affect air flow to the radiator. Does anyone have any ideas on how this might be done?
Water heater question
in Coach ApplianceTech Issues
Posted
Even if I don't use water it still stays on....thermostat adjustable?