BobBeery
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Posts posted by BobBeery
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I have seen many kinds of tracks for that curtain but they seem to fall into two basic styles, one shaped like a C that has sliders inside the C, and one like a T that has sliders on the stem of the T. The track will run all the way across from one side to the other with a gap at one end just big enough for a slider to be put on or off. All the tracks that I have seen are screwed to the ceiling every 6 to 9 inches. Your mention of little tabs on the ceiling puzzles me, but the variety of fittings on our toys is amazing so it could easily be another style I haven't seen yet. Linda's question above is a good place to start.
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Do you refer to the curtain on the front window or the curtain that separates the bed from the rest of the toy?
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Bufbooth built a roof rack for his canoe. He's had the rack on for several years now.
On 3/13/2011 at 9:55 PM, bufbooth said:Hello All,
I build the below canoe roof rack from gas/water pipe and composite decking boards.
The composite decking board was 16 feet long (about $30) and I took the Toyota to go
get it and cut the board into two 8 foot long boards in the parking lot of Lowes, the
8 foot board fit into the Toyota via the front doors.
I chose the composite board since it will not rot or warp.
Ended up keeping one 8 foot board 8 feet long, but do to some vent pipes on the roof,
the other 8 foot board was cut into a 3 foot and a 4 foot board.
The other materials are as follows:
1) 4 - 72 inch half inch inch pipes (2 for the rack that the canoe sits on and 2 for side supports)
(would use 3/4 inch pipe if I had to do it again)
2) 4 - 3 inch round pipe bases / foots. (and matching set of 2 inch long bolts, nuts, washers)
3) 4 - T-connectors
4) 2 - 12 inch pipes and 2 - 10 inch pipes (for the height of the rack, but wanted front to be 2 inches lower)
5) 2 - 2 inch pipes (to add to the 72 inch pipes to get me to 78 inches)
6) 4 - 90 degree curves
7) 4 - 2 inch pipes (goes between round pipe bases and T-connectors)
8) 2 - pipe connecting joint (to connect the 72 inch and 12 inch pipes)
9) 7 - 4 inch wood bolts, 1/4 wide
I put all the pipes together on the ground, it ended up looking like a bed frame.
I predrilled holes in the composite boards for the four 3-inch round pipe bases,
and then put the bolts though the holes (threads are top side) and then I screwed
down the composite board through the roof about two inches from the edges. The
screws ended up sticking though the ceiling about one inch, with all being located
inside of a cabinet. These screws are really for keeping the rack from shifting,
straps with be used to keep the canoe on.
Dennis
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21 hours ago, WME said:
MOST rv thermostats have a small on/off switch on the bottom. Have you tried it?
A millivolt house stat works ok, spend a few bucks more and get a heat only digital stat. It will have set backs.
Another reason to use a digital t-stat is that they are not affected by being off level. The traditional home stat with mercury switch can be off a fair amount if you are not parked level.
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On 9/27/2016 at 8:41 AM, BobBeery said:
I nave a steering stabilizer supposed to fit supposed to be coming FedEx today. After I get it in and know it fits I will give details.
Yes it fit and it works.
I am not at home now and won't be for a month but this is what I remember: part is Skyjacker series 7000. Specific part number is 7186 and has a set of brackets with it. Be sure to get the brackets, you will need them for the end that goes on the tie rod. DO NOT get part number 7900. It is the same damper but without brackets.
This will mount normally at the frame end. On the end that goes on the tie rod there will be a new bracket secured by two 'U' bolts. I have been told that Jeeps used a similar clamp but cannot verify this.
I bought online free shipping for more than $50 but less than $60.
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My 87 Dolphin had the porch light and outside grabhandle in the same fixture. Switch was immediately below the light lens and behind the handle. The lens on this kind just has tabs on top and bottom and can be pushed off by reaching under the lens and pushing out. If that is where your switch is don't be surprised if the switch works poorly or not at all, it is very exposed to the elements and corrosion is very common.
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I just replaced the converter/charger in the panel of my 94 Warrior. Old panel was Magnatech model 6332 (meaning series 6300 and 32 amps) New converter direct replacement is a Progressive Dynamics 4600 I bought online from Best RV and Truck Supply for $187.50 plus 16.12 shipping.
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How much clearance between duals if you have 195R instead of 185R?
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22 hours ago, Totem said:
I always had excellent times at Dennis's rallies. Unfortunately for me any way you slice it and I mean any way its 6 + hours to these locations. I live in south central michigan 10 miles from the turnpike also...so that flunks the 5 hour sniff test for me.
Add in Chicago traffic jams, crime risk, and severe turnpike tax cost of my dual rear wheels its just not gonna happen for me. I would reckon this would also be DOA trip to most folks anywhere in Michigan or Ohio, so for me I will continue to monitor for a closer venue for a rally as I am no where near retire age. If I move soon - West - that could change things. I'm much more agreeable with traveling through Illinois now that my CHL permit is recognized and honored there in my vehicle also thanks to the courts.
Excuse my ignorance but what is a CHL permit?
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If the answer to this was already here then sorry I missed it. My wife likes the zep'd fiberglass so much she wants to do the whole cab as well. Is it ok to zep the metal too?
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I have had them without a ladder and with, I will always take with. My current Toy the ladder I think was added or replaced. First the square bumper was remounted to be more secure. Then the ladder bottom is fastened to the bumper. And there are two mid supports not just one. Result is a very secure ladder.
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I have a steering stabilizer supposed to fit supposed to be coming FedEx today. After I get it in and know it fits I will give details.
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The cable from the battery will end in the electric breaker box on the circuit board that has the 12V fuses. Some boards have printing to label the lugs, such as BATT or NEG or COMM. And some boards have lugs on the back as well as the front.
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8 hours ago, Totem said:
Just wanted to do a shout out to Ryobi on their inflator station. Its fully automated and goes over 100 psi. Set it to what psi you want and walk away. Does air matresses on the other side to. Shuts off automatically. I took a dual chuck put a shrader to 1/4 on it and it can get the inner duals also A+!
I would like to see a photo of that dual chuck with shrader to 1/4. Any chance you could post one?
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2 minutes ago, Got Toyota said:
Thank you for the reply, I'm going throw the dice and see what happens. The reason I want to run the dexron lllh is I got a great deal on a 5 gallon bucket for 20$ and it was very hard to pass up when it goes for around 85$ .
Great buy. Sounds like you are set on that for a long time.
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Please hold off on judgements of skyjacker steering damper. It appears I made a mistake in ordering. It is available both with and without "mounting brackets" (think adapter) and I chose without. I am going to get the mounting brackets and try it but this may take a week.
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Depends on your route. In Traverse City Michigan there is a shop that is pretty good at repairing existing gas tanks. Coil's, 231-947-4515
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On 9/21/2016 at 0:31 PM, darrel said:
I also have a 94 Warrior with a v6. I use "Valvoline MAX Life" full synthetic recommended for most GM, Ford, Toyota and Honda models.
Drain and fill takes "3 Quarts plus 8 ounces" so a 1 gallon jug does it. I buy it at Walmart for under $20.
At my local Wal-mart dex is 3.99/quart. For 4.49/quart I buy Valvoline Max Life full synthetic transmission fluid which is specifically listed for dex-ii, dex-iii and dex-vi as well as mercon and others. Photo above is copied from a post by Darrel.
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On 9/19/2016 at 11:52 AM, Derek up North said:On 9/19/2016 at 6:40 PM, BobBeery said:
Yes, specifically the #7900. I ordered one today from Autoanything.com so cannot yet verify that it is right until it arrives. I was concerned about the ends shown in the photo not matching what is on my 94 Warrior, but the man on the phone at Autoanything assures me that the photo is not the actual part and that the actual part will be right. I hope to know by Saturday.
The skyjacker 7900 came today but it is NOT going to fit. It has a post on each end. The Toyota original has a post on one end and a tie-rod end fitting on the other.
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I vote for the separate circuit to bypass the converter.
Here's why--all the electric boxes I have seen have two sections, a 110 load center with breakers and a converter that produces 12V to a fuse panel and also to charge your deep cycle. The converter section will automatically stop drawing down the deep cycle when 110 is supplied. Because the converter is always trying to charge the deep cycle when 110 is present; If you feed the 110 from the inverter into the shore power, you set up a circle you don't want--from deep cycle to inverter to converter back to deep cycle. With a separate circuit this will not happen.
There is POSSIBLY one other way to prevent the circle mentioned above. You could determine which 110 breaker feeds the refrigerator and which breaker feeds the converter section. IF they are different breakers you could turn off the one to the converter BUT you would have to do this every time. Turning off that breaker may also disable charging the deep cycle through the isolator.
In my Toy the refrigerator and converter are on the same 110 breaker so messing with the breakers would be pointless.
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8 hours ago, darrel said:
I also have a 94 Warrior with a v6. I use "Valvoline MAX Life" full synthetic recommended for most GM, Ford, Toyota and Honda models.
Drain and fill takes "3 Quarts plus 8 ounces" so a 1 gallon jug does it. I buy it at Walmart for under $20.
I chose the same fluid. I poured the drained fluid into a gallon milk jug, it totaled a little over 2 quarts.
Surprise!! The drained fluid was nice red and very clean. I think the previous owner must have changed it but not told me about it.
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I am getting ready to do a transmission drain and fill. Could somebody estimate how many quarts of new fluid I should buy? I don't want to come up way short when I do this. For a 94 Warrior with V6.
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Yes, specifically the #7900. I ordered one today from Autoanything.com so cannot yet verify that it is right until it arrives. I was concerned about the ends shown in the photo not matching what is on my 94 Warrior, but the man on the phone at Autoanything assures me that the photo is not the actual part and that the actual part will be right. I hope to know by Saturday.
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Thanks for the reply. I found somebody who put one on a few years ago and got a part number from him, it's just not Bilstein. It is skyjacker 7000.
1990 Dolphin window screens
in General Discussion
Posted
As far as I know, all windows that open had screens.