ranger
-
Posts
27 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Events
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Posts posted by ranger
-
-
So if you put the old battery back in it works? Check to see if you have 12 volts at the fuse panel should be a fair sized lug with around a #8 wire. No ideal about your big red wire generator maybe? Picture?
No-replaced the old dead battery with a new one. Everyting was working fine prior to that.I checked the black and white wires at the fuse panel but no juice. Sounds like I have something wired wrong but I have recehecked several times. Hope it is not a converter problem. What do you think?
I think you are right on the red wire being the generator wire.
Thanks
Ramger
-
Installed a new coach battery today to power my 12 volt lights, pump, etc. Once I hooked up the cables no power, no lights, etc. Re-checked my wiring and according to the instructions on the invertor the black wire goes to the positive and the white goes to the negative cables of the battery. Checked fuses, breakers all OK. Everyting worked fine with the old battery. Hooked hoop just like the old battery was hooked up. Checked the new battery and it was OK.
Any ideas what could be wrong?
Also, I have a large red wire (about the size of your finger) which hooks to the positive side of the battery which runs to what appears to be a resistor? block. Does anyone know what the block is or does?
-
Hi,
I have a 93 Dolphin and installed a fantastic-fan in the bathroom this summer. It was fairly easy to install. As for the trim piece you simply cut the depth of it to fit your roof thickness.
Barb
Thanks everyone. Do you all recommend the one with intake and exhaust or just exhaust, thermostate or not, etc.?
Ranger
-
I would love to hear more about your (or anyones) rear bumper mount generator with its own fuel tank. What type/size of generator, how is it mounted, fuel tank kind and mount, how long (hours) will it run, can you run the generator while traveling, how do you connect the camper power cord, etc.
I would like to add some addditional information to this post. My response was to a post by "Maineah" about his rear mount generator.
-
Fan-tastic Fan
Will the Fan-tastic Fan install without any modifications - does the trim ring fit snug against the ceiling as it does with thicker roofs?
-
Wow good find it must be fairly new if it's a 3,000 watt no doubt it can be installed do you really need it I guess is the question I sure like my 2.8. Rear bumper mount with it's own fuel tank? I think the 3.0 is what they call a "Camp" module Micro Lite it would make a nice gen set for your home only 120 volt though.
I would love to hear more about your (or anyones) rear bumper mount generator with its own fuel tank. What type/size of generator, how is it mounted, fuel tank kind and mount, how long (hours) will it run, can you run the generator while traveling, how do you connect the camper power cord, etc.
-
We just bought our first RV, an 86 Dolphin. We unknowingly hooked it up to city water without a regulator and blew all kinds of stuff. Everything is fixed now, except the toilet. It seems to be leaking out of the rim - gets the back of our legs wet when we rub against it in the tiny Bathroom. How in the world do we fix this problem? We'd sure appreciate some advice! Thanks in advance!
If it is a Aqua Magic or any other Thetford brand you can give them a call and one of the techs will help you analyize the problem and provide you with the correct part number. You can buy repair parts from them but I have found the part I needed (water value) I could buy much cheaper if I shopped around. Thetford's number is 1-800-521-3032 and their hours of operation are 8-6 eastern time.
Hope this helps and good luck.
Ranger
-
I am replacing the exterior vinyl insert trim that covers the screw heads around the overhead bunk area on my 86 Shasta. Could anyone tell me what size the vinyl trim is?
3/4 inch or 1 inch? I tried lying a piece flat to measure but it crumbled due to its age.
-
If they are "C" rated tires you need to go see your tire store they will not stand the load of a 6000# motor home and they are not designed to run the necessary air pressure. You really need a "D" rated tire don't mean to scare you but a "C" rated tire is not a good thing and should be changed. When people look at our little motor homes they would never believe they weigh 3 tons! Most people are running some thing close to 50 psi on all 6.
Thanks - I will put that on my "to do" list.
Ranger
-
I have never heard of that, most of the bigger stuff has a flexable line between both rear wheels to keep them at exactly the same pressure. Maybe it is some strange thing they did on the fake dual wheels (5 bolt rear). The ideal is to increase the load carrying capacity so it seems to me the one with more pressure would be doing most of the work.
Now I am really confused. My Shasta has a Coachman sticker on the drivers door that shows the tire size and pressure. It says the tire size should be 185R14LT8PR, the Gross weight is 6000 pounds and the air pressure for the front and rear (dual) tires should be 26 pounds each accordng to the sticker. Sounds low to me. I looked at my tires and they say 50 pounds of air pressure. It also says they are Load C.
Should I be concerned?
-
Due to the recent downpoors here in NC I was able to take a look at my moisture problem which is located in the overhead interior bunk area (passenger side) front corner/side area. It appears the moisture is coming in around and under the 2x2 wooden frame work behind the paneling on the side at the bottom which is where the exterior metal seam is located.
I am assuming I need to remove the exterior vinyl trim, screw heads that holds the metal trim panel on and in turn the metal trim. It appears the metal trim was sealed with butyl caulk tape from the factory which appears to be deteriated.
Do I just clean and replace the caulk tape and replace the metal trim or is there something in addition I can do to help resove this issue?
Any advice or recommendations will be appreciated.
Ranger
-
Well finally put some studs up , cut roof off, installed new 1x6 side sills, layed notched 2x3 joists 16 oc, glued and screwed blocking to sill filling gaps created by joists, and epoxyed 4 precut 1/4 inch sheets of plywood. I hope to lay ply soon although think glassing roof will have to wait for warmer weather. Will still have to tarp out over winter but now at least roof wont cave in with snow.
Tried to post photos of the interior of my 86 Shasta for your reference but had no luck. Everytime I would try to attach the file I would get an error message that read "No file was chosen". Do you or anyone else have any suggestions on what I am doing wrong?
Ranger
-
It was really cold last night so I let both of my faucets run a bit. Well, to my amazement I found out that the bathroom sink gray water goes into the black water holding tank (I didn't think that valve needed to be open...
). But luckily no water backed up into the camper, it overflowed onto the ground somehow. But how? Does anyone have any experience with this scenario? Where does the shower drain to?Had a similiar experience. I was running off the water due to the unit being winterized with RV antifreeze when I bought it. I had the bath sink on and the gray water value open. Low and behold I came back a few minutes later and found the sink backed up and running over, also the water had backed up in the shower. Luckely my black water tank contained no ?.
The best I can tell it appears my entire bathroom is on one tank and the kitchen sink on another.
Hope this helps.
Ranger
-
Got the tranny gauge installed yesterday, filter and fluid changed, new radiator installed, new fuel level sending unit installed. The toy is ready to roll with the exception of the fuel filter. I guess I'll give it another look today and see if there is any way I can get to it and get it replaced. I really think it is the stock filter.
Hi Lance,
I noticed you live in Fayetteville, N.C. I also have a 1986 Coachman (Shasta) which I purchased in late 2009 and I live in Erwin, NC which is only a few miles away. Ironically, after reading some of your posts I had some of the same problems (battery isolater, cruise not working) with my toy. My toy is a 22re with automatic. Luckly mine had a trans cooler and warning light installed when I purchased it. I am currently in the process of doing some upgrades on the interior.
I would think your unit and mine would have alot of similiarities, wiring, problems, etc.. Being these Toy's are new to me maybe we can get together one day and share some information.
Unfortunetly I have been having problems trying to post photos.
Ranger
-
I noticed your Shasta had a side compartment for a generator? Does it have one? If so could you tell me what kind and size?
It did i had to take it out to replace entire floor. It didnt start when i got it so i cant comment on its output. It is a kholer I'll have to look at it for further specs. In replacing floor i realized the genny had bent aluminum floor joists in that corner. Not being a welder i shimmed floor to make floor level. So now if i wanted to replace it easily I couldn't because the access door would need to be cut higher/new door. I have it in my garage and hope to get it going one day...
From what i hear these gennys are too loud and heavy. A friend has a small honda and boy is that thing small powerful & quiet!
I love the rear dinnete/bed with windows all around. I plan to replicate alot and could use photos of a well kept original Shasta Revere
I too love the rear dinette/bed with windows all around. As stated earlier I am in the process of updating the countertops (kitchen & bath), range hood and all cushions are also in the process of being covered. I will be glad to provide you with some photos of my work in progress. Would you like to see anything or area in particular?
My ceiling shows no sign of leakage and believe it or not all the original appliances (heater, fridge, AC, water heater, invertor) are in good working condition. Did have a water heater leak, a leak under the tub and some general maintaince issues which I have fixed. After cleaning the metal roof it looked very good and I have coated it with the white RV elostomatic roof coating for now. However, I really like the spray on bedliner idea on the roof.
I have noticed a small damp area in the corner of the overhead bunk on the passanger side. I'm thinking it might be coming from the front bunk window and running behind the wall and eventially making it to the corner. I understand the front over cab windows are bad for leaking. You or someone else may have another idea where I could look - if so I would appreciate any advice.
Could you or anyone else tell me what size air conditioner typically comes on the coach? I can't seem to find the BTU information but the unit is a Brisk Air.
Thanks again for the generator information. I see yours is a 2500 watt.
Ranger
-
85 Mirage 22re 135k automatic on the floor no a/c, or toilet, holding tanks etc. I've owned 10 years or so put on 90k
86 Shasta Revere 22re 170k automatic on the column Currently under construction...,well actually under 2 tarps and 2 inches of snow, put a whopping 10 miles on her.
both in providence ri
both need deep cycle batteries
both leak gas at tank one has a new gas tank! Ha Ha
I also have a 86 Shasta Revere with the exact floor plan and interior/exterior colors, cabinets, etc. It has a 22re with 28,000 miles and automatic on the column and luckly in good shape overall. However I am in the process of replacing the countertops, sink, range hood and just dropped off the couch cushions to be recovered. I noticed your Shasta had a side compartment for a generator? Does it have one? If so could you tell me what kind and size?
Thanks
Ranger
-
Hi T-Wolf,
Thanks for the reply. It has electronic ignition, no pilot. I don't see a brand on it, but the exterior vent cover says Suburban, so I suspect that its a Suburban furnace. As far as I know, the muffled whump is the normal sound of the gas igniting. The bang is nothing like a bomb going off, just want to make sure that its not heading in that direction. I am not using the furnace until this is figured out. I have observed the ignition process, but I'm not sure what distance is safe at this point.
-Brad
Had a very similiar problem with a furnace in a travel trailer I had. It appears that condensation had created rust in the slots/holes on the burner directly below the igniter. Therefore, gas would not be directly below the igntion area and had to build up from the other slots in the burner and then igntion would happen with a BOOM.
I had to remove the burner and clean with a wire brush and re-intstall. Worked great after that. Hope this helps.
Ranger
-
Yeah it's reading charger voltage. WM has little 2 amp chargers that are maintainers, you'll have to plug it in to the house if you plug in the MH it will make the charger/converter run. The isolator is a nice option if they work right (the relay type) if your truck battery is weak you can turn the key on and it will give you a little boost.
Good point and THANKS!!
-
Thanks Again! I will try tomorrow and let everyone know. I did replace the fully charged truck battery yesterday and took her down the road, Stopped and cranked her several times with no problems. Tried her today and she fired right up. I still have the coach battery removed.
Truck battery still cranking fine and alternator charging. I still have the coach battery removed. It appears that the DEAD coach battery was drawing down the truck battery and I am assuming due to the battery isolater being wired wrong if that is possible.
I am thinking of installing a battery maintainer (2 amp automatic) on a new coach battery instead of messing with the battery isolater which will need to be replaced, properly wired, etc. The trips I take are less than 2 hours one way and I do not do any camping without electrical hook-ups.
If my understanding is right then I could plug up the battery maintainer without having to plug up the entire coach. If I am missing something or am wrong in my thinking please let me know.
I also plugged the coach up today and pressed the battery button on the monitioring panel in the coach - it read acceptable even though the coach battery is removed. Can anybody explain that? Does it mean the invertor is saying the battery is charging?
-
OK try this, buy a cheap 12 volt test light most auto parts stores have them disconnect your positive battery cable clamp the end to the post and the probe end to the cable. Make sure you have every thing turned off, if the light is on (I suspect it is) start pulling fuses one at a time until the light goes off if none of the fuses make it go off then start disconnecting the wiring to the coach until you get the light to go out. What ever makes it go out is the cause of your dead battery. If you have cell phone chargers or some thing that would normally stay on disconnect that first it's probably not enough to kill the battery but it will screw up the battery draw test. All though it's rare alternators some times will cause a battery drain so if all else fails disconnect the alternator.
Thanks Again! I will try tomorrow and let everyone know. I did replace the fully charged truck battery yesterday and took her down the road, Stopped and cranked her several times with no problems. Tried her today and she fired right up. I still have the coach battery removed.
-
Is the truck battery like dead after 2 days? or it just will not crank. Or better question how do you get it started?
DEAD! but I can jump it off with a jump starter. I did remove the coach battery today and found it was dead as well ( and low in water) and it will not even take a charge. I replaced the truck battery and checked for voltage at the wires that were hooked to the coach battery and found no power. If the battery fails again it should be something with the truck?
-
Yeah it's wired wrong sounds like some one tried to "fix" it. Truck battery wire on one side (big post) coach battery on the other small wire to the key switch. The little boxes are circuit breakers. Now if both are hooked to the same post essentially both batteries are hooked together so maybe you are looking in the wrong place for your truck battery issue. I would disconnect the coach battery, tape it and see how that effects your truck. If all is well then your problem is with the coach end. NAPA or the likes should have the relay make sure they understand that it is a continuous duty solenoid.
Thanks Maineah,
I'll try that today and let you know. It's strange, I bought the MH in October and have used it and had no battery problems until now. I did unhook the wire from the truck battery that led to the solenoid and inturn to the coach. Once I unhooked that wire I had no power in the coach so I thought the coach was pulling down the truck battery and may be causing the problem but as stated earlier the truck battery still went dead.
-
The main engine cranking battery on my Toyhome is going dead in about 2 days. I have had it checked it checks good and afterall it is only 4 months old and showed no signs of failure prior to this. I have not been able to find anything such as lights, etc. which could be draining the battery.
I have even unhooked the main wire from the positive post to the battery isolater (sylonide type which is another story) just to see if that could be creating the drain. No luck there.
I'm thinking it might be the starter?? Anybody encontered this before?
On another note - after reading the posts about battery isolaters I looked closer at mine. Again, mine is the sylonide type and appears to be wired wrong. There is a hot wire leaving the battery post to a relay (I think it is a relay or circut breaker?), then another wire leads off the other side of the relay and hooks to one side of the isolater. Then another hot wire is hooked to the same side as the previous wire and runs to the coach battery. In other words all wires are hooked to one side of the isolater. No wires are hooked to the oher side or middle connection on the isolater. I am thinking the isolater may not be working and the previous owner just placed both wires on one side. What do you guys think? Where can I buy another isolater and how should it be wired?
Thanks,
Ranger
-
That sounds shaky to me I would take it to a local RV dealer and have them check it out. Does the electric pump get fuel from the MH tank? How about the exhaust how did they deal with that? How does the electrical power transfer operate? The units that were designed for use in a MH usually send all the heat and the exhaust out the bottom. Nothing wrong per say with a Coleman generator but an improper install with a generator that was ment to be on the ground could be dangerous.
The electric fuel pump does get fuel from the MH tank. The exhaust is made from metal conduit and exists out the rear of the coach but not very professional looking. I do not know how the electric transfer works. There is a swith (on/off light switch type) which is connected to several wire leads and located in the generator compartment. The heat generated during operation is handled by a 16 inch plastic electric fan (such as used on race cars for addtional cooling) which is mounted under the generator at the bottom opening. The fan is connected to a switch which will allow the fan to run in the both directions.
Obviously someone went to great links and expense to install, hook-up, etc. this generator. I have had it running for a few seconds but really have not had time to really check it out. I could use some advice on the electrical wiring issue - what wire/color should go were, etc.
Thanks
). But luckily no water backed up into the camper, it overflowed onto the ground somehow. But how? Does anyone have any experience with this scenario? Where does the shower drain to?
No 12 Volt Power
in General Discussion
Posted
Found my problem. I traced the black(hot) wire that hooks to the positive battery post and found an inline 30 amp fuse which was blown. Replaced the fuse and the problem is fixed.