flatspin
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Posts posted by flatspin
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Hey all,
I've poked around the forum but haven't seen any strong recommendations for a cover - brand, materials, etc. We're in northern california so I'm looking for rain and SUN protection. Just about half way done on a spring re-polish and wax, and I'd like to have it last this time.
As part of the spring cleaning, I'm considering re-striping the Sunrader. Any good pointers or resources beyond the ones I'm finding on a google search?
thanks all
andrew
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Somehow I'd missed your blog... what an awesome travelogue. Thanks for sharing (and inspiring me to go out and work on my 'rader on a rather cold December day)
Best,
andrew
Bob;
Welcome to the forums. I'm glad to see your other half is picking this up with some enthusiasm.
I had similar story. I wanted to drive the Alaskan hiway and go all the way north to Prudhoe Bay Alaska. My wife didn't exhibit the same level of enthusiasm as I did. However, once we bought the toyhouse and started cleaning it up, paint, curtains, that kind of stuff. All my wife could talk about was our trip to Alaska, and that she walked on the Arctic Ocean
We kept a Blog and updated it during our trip. After the trip, I found a place that would print the blog in a nice booklet format. My wife doesn't go anywhere without the booklet to show people.
JOhn Mc
88 Dolphin 4 Auto
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A soft spot on the floor isn't necessarily a deal breaker, but I'd certainly want to understand why it has occurred. The structure of the original floor doesn't lend itself to repair per se, but it is entirely possible to re-skin the floor using plywood, so there are remedies. I wouldn't call it difficult from a skills standpoint, but just pulling up the carpet is a huge chore because it is attached with an obscene number of staples.
You just want to know that there isn't a persistent water issue that will continue to rot the floor after you've made the repair.
And yes, the walls and roof are made of two fiberglass shells which provide the exterior skin and the primary structure. The coach can't rot the way a stick frame would, but water leaks are still a pain. Goes with the territory.
-andrew
Hi Folks--
Possibly buying an '86 shorty ('18) )Sunrader: there's a soft area on the coach floor, about 2' in the kitchen area--any experience with this? could it be from an old plumbin lieak? skylight? (there is one a bit forward of the area). Wondering if this is reason to stay away, or really not something to worry about. An easy repair?
what is the structure of the floor? is it plywood with some kind or coating unerneath (on the undercarriage)?
Also, as I recall, the SR is coach is two-piece molded fiberglass, so no wood armature or frame structure to worry about (i.e., if leaks develop in a skylight or window, I wouldn't have to worry a roof or wall collapsing)? Do I have this right?
Thanks in advance for your always excellent advice!
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I put a floating wood floor in my Sunrader, and while it has its imperfections to be sure, it is AOK after more than a year. I know MANY others have had success as well.
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I had a Fantastic Vent already installed, so all I had to do was put on the MaxxAir cover to protect the vent underway and in the rain. The vent pulls a lot of air through. I haven't tried the MaxxAir complete solution with a fan, but I imagine one or two of those would be quite effective. Again, I think trying out the AC while it is already installed is a good idea.
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1) The starter batteries will have a fairly short lifespan in that kind of role. They're designed for high-current at short bursts and will tend to degrade internally when repeatedly depleted. DEFINITELY ensure good ventilation no matter what. Parallel is aok, but potentially unnecessary for things like interior lights and the occasional fan. Add a TV, use the microwave via an Inverter, etc. and the extra capacity will come in handy.
2) Try it. I think using the coach AC underway with the genset would be more of a hassle than it is worth. We have good luck with a Maxxair and the coach AC, but we are up in NorCal where there are only a few weeks over 100 in the summer.
3) How does the coach ride now? If you're level and can handle a load, you may be OK. If not, the idea is to have enough spring to support the coach and then use the airbags to re-level when you're loaded up... Airbags can hold up a dragging coach, but the real solution is to either re-arch or replace the springs, etc. In the grand scheme of things (and from your list you've got a pretty grand scheme) it isn't super expensive. Add in replacing the airbags, and you'll be out a chunk o change, though.
4) Just installed new monroes. Life changing. Bilsteins are great too. Easy to find online with your year/1ton p/u.
10) Post a pic of those mirrors...
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Replacing speakers in the cabs of these pickups is dead easy. Location and complexity can vary a little bit based on year. here's a quick look at the driver side on my '90
http://sunrader.blogspot.com/2010/01/carpet-carpet-carpet-and-more-carpet.html
There are loads of downloadable instruction sets for replacing speakers or stereos available online. The great thing about the older Toyotas is they used really simple fasteners - most of the work can be done with a phillips screwdriver.
Have fun.
-andrew
Very useful info. We love our tunes andwant to upgrade radio and speakers. Crutchfield has some good buys. I was wondering how hard it is to replace front/dash speakers? I have a manual coming soon from ebay and am hoping it has some info...Thanks, AL
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DOA?
http://www.doaracingengines.com/
Hello All,
Does anyone recall a company located in Ohio (or East Coast) that specialized in rebuilding
Toyota 2.4L and 3.0L engines (like had 6 versions of each)? I recalled they made several
versions ranging from 100% stock, to Heavy Duty to high HP.
Thanks,
Dennis B.
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As a Sunrader guy, I can't comment on the adhesive question, but I will say that you've got yourself what looks like a very cool little project. Have fun!
Hey all,
The wife and I picked up a 1980 Mini with 103K on the clock for $900 on Saturday.
The roof was showing signs of water damage, so despite a heat index of 115+ here, I wasted no time in starting to gut her out. There appears to be a lot of rot along both outer roof seams, with the worst being on the passenger side rear. I think I am going to have to completely gut her down to the aluminum. My loose game plan is to rig up some boards to temporarily support the roof structure while I am doing this. Here is the part that I am kinda lost on. How does one 'adhere' the new boards to the aluminum? Is construction adhesive really a good long-term solution?
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The 22RE is a terrific little engine, and it is a big part of why these rigs are still on the road after 25 years. I have the 3VZE in my Sunrader, and it is still underpowered. The 22RE, well cared for, will go forever and tick along just fine on the flats. Just get used to going uphill slowly in 2nd. It's all about the journey, right?
We recently got a good deal (we think) on an '84 Escaper that is in great shape except the motor. Apparently it needs a valve job. This is the original 2.2 4cyl with 4 speed standard, 30,000 miles. Since at some point we may take it West (we live in WI but are from Idaho where there are real mountains), we are considering changing engines. Options are: do the valve job; put in another, newer 4cyl; or going to a 6cyl. Also, it appears the rear axle was never replaced, per the recall. We have a dollar figure in mind, but are interested in knowing the expense and advantage in such a change, especially for the cost of going with the 6cyl, its ability in the mountains, and average mpg. We probably will hire the work from a known place here (unless a retired mechanic friend offers -- we won't ask). Related issues include whether to change the transmission (I read this one may not work with some 6cyls) and where a rear axle could be obtained. Looking forward to hearing suggestions from all the experience out there.
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If memory serves, you can use both Group 24 and 25 batteries. Interstate, Duralast, Walmart batteries all seem to get consistently good mentions. Stick to a good brand, then go for the highest capacity that fits (I believe Group 25 is slightly larger/has more plates than Group 24) the truck.
As mentioned, the deep cycle marine battery is critical for the coach, so it can handle being completely discharged repeatedly and maintain capacity.
andrew
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We just replaced our old awning on the side of the Sunrader with a new Carefree box awning. Bolts through the side of the camper work well (we reused existing holes) with appropriate support plates/washers inside.
-andrew
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probably more important than purchase price is getting a good sense of what might be required in terms of maintenance/repair to get the Sunrader to where you want it. cosmetics like painting on the interior are pretty easy. springs, shocks, brakes, window seals, appliance work, etc... all add up.
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this looks like an interesting option http://www.tchweb.com/tchstore/category/fiberglass-laminate/s0/510---FRP-Laminate-Panels.html
-andrew
Hey all!!!
I have come to a standstill on my Sunrader.
Why you ask??
I have been looking for some paneling that I need for replacing some that is water damaged. I have called a few supply places but by the time you pay for the paneling, the crate, and then freight it comes close to $400.00 and that's just for 2 sheets.
I want the inside to look nice, and not hokey by slapping up some Box stroe paneling. I hate to paint!!!!!
I only have one wall to do, and a lot of that is taken up by a window and the couch.
Any ideas on what I could put up in that spot would be really cool.
Thanks in advance.
Thom
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This comment stuck out at me... loss of power that occurs after the truck warms up could be as simple as overheating. thermostat?
-andrew
I took the MH out again. It drove PERFECT and felt right until it warmed up. After it warmed up that's when it happened again. It's almost like if the engine seems as if its flooding. Very much of a loss of power constantly. Doesn't seem to want to switch gears but it will if I floor it. It kind of seems like it wants to stall but it doesn't. Bad especially under load going uphill (well it's always under load but... uphill it seems worse).
After feeling it cool & running fine I'm starting to think it's not the transmission. (fluid is pink)
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bummer about the Dolphin... the pics of the Odyssey look pretty nice, i must say.
there are a couple of Sunraders on sale in the SF Bay Area right now... one is 4x4. http://sfbay.craigslist.org/scz/rvs/2330088930.html
good luck on the search...
-andrew
Yes, we did just see it.. but front kitchens won't work as my husband has to be able to move the seats back (6'5"). Looks nice, though.
Well, the straight arrow Dolphin turned out to be a waterlogged, caulked and duct-taped Dolphin. Nice old guy. Good running engine, lots of pick-up Toyota-wise but quite a project. And he thinks it's a peach for it's age and a great deal for the money. Not. You could just about push your hand through the wall in the shower, there was black mold on the ceiling of the bathroom closet, the right front had leakage and was spongy under the bed cushions, countertop lifting from moisture, lots of delam, etc, etc, etc.
So. The search continues. We were looking at that Odyssey 4x4 listed here and it really looks beautiful but that's a lot of money for sight unseen. Sight unseen is getting to be more and more scary to us.
Poor old soggy Dolphin..
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Option 3... wait for a better Sunrader to come on the market
Seriously, if you're committed to one of the two and the Dolphin has a solid coach structure, it seems like a better choice to me. The fridge and tires are easy to deal with, and probably only $1,000 or so all-in if you have to repair or replace. That and half the mileage on the powertrain and chassis.
-andrew
Hello folks,
Here's a question for you all: If you had a choice between a clean 21 ft 1987 Sunrader with 150,000 miles in the 6-7 thousand range and a 21ft 1987 Dolphin with 77,000 miles in the 5-6 thousand range, which would you buy?.
Particulars:
Sunrader: The good; new heavy duty radiator, new (good) tires, 2 extra leaf springs professionally added, clean inside, burns no oil, recent valve job, everything works including the fridge. New pvc plumbing throughout.
The bad; the outside walls appear to be doing the Sunrader sag. The miles, obviously are not great.
Dolphin: The good; Super clean, straight as an arrow, runs 'like a top' just returned from a trip to AZ per the 86 year old owner and didn't have one problem.
The bad: Unknown if fridge works or AC as the gentleman never tried them. Rather he tried the fridge but couldn't get it to work on LP and never plugged in to electric per him. Tires have about 40-50% left.
The dolphin is one hour away and the Sunrader is 6 hours round trip. We have yet to see either with our own eyes but the sag looks pretty apparent in the Sunrader pics on Ebay. We have an 18 ft Sunrader doing the same thing.
Is that floor sag a big problem? What's the worst that could happen? Anyone had a worse case scenario?
Guess we're looking for professional opinions (for free
.Thanks very much!
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Removing and replacing the stove is probably a lot simpler than it seems. In my Sunrader, it is just a few wood screws along the perimeter and the gas line. Sure you'll have to remove/replace the silicone, but it means the repair will last a long time.
-andrew
Well, the little drywall things that spread out fixed the problem - for now. The actual fixture still needs replacing so hopefully the screws will be easy to take out and then put back in.
Did a search inside to see if it would be easy to fix from inside. The area needed is behind the stove!
Thanks everyone for your suggestions!
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I know I'm late in the game here, but if you still need it fixed try Cranes refrigeration in Vallejo. Ca. They will have you out the door for 500.00 with a new cooling unit. took about 3 hours for mine.
The guys at Crane's are awesome (not to mention pretty entertaining). Refer is back online and fully operational. 2.5 hours and yer done. Quick just like that. Thanks to all who recommended this option.
-andrew
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Has anyone considered using a water-methanol injector to increase performance going up hill? I was just talking to the mechanic that works on my F-150, and he runs a little muscle-car shop. We talked about engine swaps, getting a 'built' version of the 3.0, etc. His suggestions were:
- change the rear-end gearing
- change the fuel filter every 10,000 miles
- tune up more often and...
consider water-methanol injection? http://www.snowperformance.net/products.php?p_cat=302
Seems like the benefit is cooling the intake and cylinders and increasing the air-density of the charge. My mechanic was pretty bullish on it... seems pretty tempting... can be tuned to only operate at or near WOT, and he seems to think as much as 15-25hp increase was possible.
Thoughts? Experience? Snake oil?
-andrew
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Gotta love Toyota engineering priorities. The chart showing HP/Torque output is awesome. Torque is almost pan flat across the power curve... big part of Toyota's success in delivering cheap, economical cars that are (fun-ish) to drive
.I just thought I'd add this article about swapping in the 3RZ (2.7 4-cylinder) into early Toyotas. Looks pretty simple (engine mounts and wiring) and 150hp.
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Totally agree with WME... I'd start with the battery. I get days of furnace and lighting and pump operation from ours. Insulating overhead vents, etc can help too. For me, I'd rather find a way to add another battery to the system than experiment with new ways to burn fuel in the living area.
-andrew
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I really like the idea of a pipe cot, as we regularly put 5 into the Sunrader and it is a Snugrader. Would be nice to have another sleeping level in the back. Just can't really figure out how to arrange a secure mounting system on the walls.
"... on every small boat space is a premium." Same goes for our Toyotas!
How about a pipe cot? Kids can sleep comfortably anywhere!
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I'd be glad to help if I weren't 100 miles away.
Might consider taking any rig you're serious about into a good shop (I'm a fan of RV Dr. George up in the Sacto area, as folks here know) for a look over.
Wall Carpet??
in General Discussion
Posted
On the cab-coach interface in the Sunrader there is fiberglass. There are a number of wood blocks where they screwed and stapled the carpet into place.
I worked with a local automotive upholstery shop who did my seats and cushions too. The owner sold me a roll of highly flexible automotive carpet -- it has no backer, so it will wrap and stretch around just about anything and stay snug. I used contact adhesive (solvent based, because the water based stuff will not work). It is actually super easy to work with and gives a great result. I put some pictures and the way I went about it on my blog... http://sunrader.blogspot.com/2010/03/carpet-time.html