tlava

Hi All-- Just wondering if a 22r can be upgraded to/replaced by a 22re in a small Sunrader, and what the advantages would be, as regards MPG and speed/power, etc. Thanks!

Is this true? an '86 Toy (Sunrader, if it matters) with a 22R fuel injected (so I guess RE) with fuel pump in gas tank? any advice/knowledge about this yr/setup? Is the '86 22re ok (since I guess it's the first yr. for the fuel injected--I thought previoisly '87)?

Hi Derek-- Thanks for the links. Can you give me the information on the two you mentioned (tlavazzi@yahoo.com)? Thanks! Tom

Hi All-- There's a '91 Toy campmate on for sale, right hand drive, which the buyer says was imported from Jap. last yr. and driven to Halifax. He claims that these can't be imported into US unless 25 yrs. old or older? Would it be foolish to but this and store it for 5 yrs, and the apply for US regis? Not sure how all this works, or it I'd need to make any mods, etc...<BR><BR>And, generally, why do we have such restrictive import laws for these superior vehicles (as if I didn't know...) Thanks!

Hi All-- There's a '91 Toy campmate on for sale, right hand drive, which the buyer says was imported from Jap. last yr. and driven to Halifax. He claims that these can't be imported into US unless 25 yrs. old or older? Would it be foolish to but this and store it for 5 yrs, and the apply for US regis? Not sure how all this works, or it I'd need to make any mods, etc... And, generally, why do we have such restrictive import laws for these superior vehicles (as if I didn't know...) Thanks!

Hi All-- There's a '91 Toy campmate on for sale, right hand drive, which the buyer says was imported from Jap. last yr. and driven to Halifax. He claims that these can't be imported into US unless 25 yrs. old or older? Would it be foolish to but this and store it for 5 yrs, and the apply for US regis? Not sure how all this works, or it I'd need to make any mods, etc... And, generally, why do we have such restrictive import laws for these superior vehicles (as if I didn't know...) Thanks!

Hi All-- I'm including the Ebay item # for J C Enterprises (they seem to be only an Ebay store), and the link to Engine Builders: http://www.engnbldr.com/ Ebay: 350274743594 Both claim to bed New Zeland castings, so I'm leaning toward going with the Ebay item, since it is about $60.00 cheaper, even with shipping and core charge (if I don't return the core), and more like $100.00 ceaper w/core return. Some advice? Thanks

Hi GUys-- Here's a way around the incompatible batteries issue: I installed 2 bats, an also a Perko battery selector switch (thee type used in boats), which has a 1, 2, or All position settings, so that when one runs down, I simply switch to batt 2--they can run in parallel by selecting "ALL," but I only use that selection when in charging mode (i.e., when plugged to shore power, in which case my converter takes over and sends a charge to the batteries, but does not draw from them).

Hi what would be best for more top end--highway cruising--power?

Hi All-- I copied this from eh J C Enterprises website. They claim that a 1mm oversized valve will increase power by 35-40 hp--does this sound right? others say that this is only relevant in racing apps (i.e., very high-6k--rpms). JC also rec. n HD "towing cam" to boost low end pulling. Also wondering about the HD after-market casting claim... The whole package--new high perf. head + towing cam, w/gaskets, will run $425.00--is this worth getting? Brand NEW 22RE Toyota High Performance cylinder head. This head fits 22RE engines carb. or FI, 1985 - 1995 with the pear shaped ports. If you're looking to increase the power in your truck this is the ticket. Head is an aftermarket casting, much thicker and more heavy duty than the original factory casting. BEST PRICE, BEST QUALITY ON THE NET! Valve job / performed on Serdi or Sunnen machine All machine work performed on the latest state of the art equipment Head has high performance valve springs Head has 4 new one piece forged oversized stainless steel intake vavles Head has 4 new one piece forged oversized stainless steel exhaust valves Head is assembled with new valve seals Head is ready for you to install your choice of cam shaft

HI ALl-- WOw--thanks for all this information--there's sure a lot of know-how out there! Let me emphasize, though, that this is a small (15') popup--and it didn't feel like I was pushing the engine at 65-70--put maybe my misperception; this is an auto, and no tech gauge, so I don't know. I guess it was running out probably at the high end. But to clarify, the temp. gauge was always below center, the whole 1.4k trip, except at one point after I had pulled over for about an hr, then started back, idled a bit at a stop while waiting for a train, then shut of the engine. When I started again, the needle was up near the top; I did drive after that, more slowly, for a few miles--the needle during that time was toward the top of the running range, though not in the red. I pulled off at a station and the mechanic there suspected a stuck thermo. He replaced it and also checked the water pump, which he said appeared new, and said all was ok. The rediator is also new, btw. After that, for the next 300 miles, the temp stayed well below middle--and it wasn't overheating, I'm pretty sure, at the time of the incident (I was tired, but usually watch that guage pretty closely)--just a bunch of white smoke suddenly and then, when I tried to start again an hr later, the seized engine... I did drive slowly maybe another 1/2 mile after the first burst of smoke, but still no overheating that I noticed. The engine was running when I shut it down. So I'm not even absolutely sure it is a blown gasket, but just can't figure what else... In any case, this bit about the low temp, at least according to the guage, which seems to be working, is puzzling me... Now you've got me wondering--maybe the guy I bought it from just got a cheap salvage to get it sold? Though there is the new radiator, so I don't know...

Hey Greg-- Thanks much again for those insights. It is an automatic. I've been quoting from the rebulider, not the mechanic--I haven't actually heard from the mechanic yet, so I'm not even sure what all is needed (though the rebuilder said he would install the rebuild it for the "low" price of $650.00; doesn't sound so low to me, but I don't know... ) In any case, here is the entire post from the Ebay site on which I saw the engine: This auction is for the Toyota 4 CYLINDER 22RE 2.4 L ENGINE Pick Up & Four Runner 1984-1995 (ACTUAL PICTURE)!! This engine is custom built for you after the auction is won!! Add an RV Cam and Spring kit to your engine for a bit more power one hundred sixty nine $! CHECK OUT MY "About Me page" We ship to Canada New parts in this Engine are Piston`s <LI>Ring`s <LI>Pin Bushing`s <LI>Rod Bearing`s <LI>Main Bearing`s <LI>Thrust Bearing`s <LI>Timing Set <LI>Timing Cover <LI>Oil Pump <LI>Install Gasket Set 36-Month unlimited mileage warranty The block is solution or thermal cleaned, steel shot blasted,cylinder`s bored & honed, deck resurfaced to proper RMS, main`s line honed . all threaded holes are re-tapped and repaired as needed. new freeze/core plug`s & oil galley plug`s . The crankshaft is reground ,oil galley plug`s removed and passage`s cleaned,connecting rod`s have new pin bushing`s installed and re-sized . The head`s are cleaned,crack checked,seat`s cut, guide`s replaced or bronze liner`s installed,resurfaced to proper RMS, camshaft journal`s line honed,viton valve stem seal`s . All engine`s are sold as long-block`s with cylinder head,timing cover and oil pump installed valve`s adjusted and install gasket set. The old engine core need`s to be returned us in the prepaid shipping container the new engine arrived in! an engine core deposit of 350.00 is included in the BIN (buy it now) price,but NOT included in the bid price.The core deposit is refunded when the core,old engine has been returned to us.in the prepaid shipping container provided with the new engine. Engine`s are assembled and then tested on a Sim-test QT-100 engine test station to check and verify compression,oil pressure and general running specification`s. After testing the engine`s are crated for shipping. Engine`s are sold on an exchange basis. <LI>The core deposit of 350.00 is included in the BIN price,NOT the Bid price. DiRossi Automotive Machine is located in upstate New York ,1hr North of Albany and 2 hr South of Montreal off Interstate I-87 Payment`s via`credit card, check`s"US and Canadian Customer`s only" Paypal. Shipping in the United States is 115.00 TO 280.00 to most area`s. Alaska and Hawaii shipping average is 325.00 <LI>contact us about shipping to Canada We build a complete line of Import and Domestic Engine`s Gas and Diesel .If you do not see what you are looking for ask and we will list the item! Thank You for looking! <LI>email us for quotes and Shipping costs or try our new Calculator below <LI>info@overbore.com <LI>1.866.364.4630 <LI>Home and Lift-Gate delivery available <LI>Shipping calculator "very close but not exact" Origin Zip:Use 12809 Destination Zip: "Your Business Zip"USA & Canada Class: Use 85 Weight: Use 350Lbs.

Hey--thanks! Here's a quote from my correspondence with the rebuilder: " hello, the 22RE engine in an RV is the same except for a few internal components. the RV engine is A HD version, they are a bout 225.00 more. the regular 22RE will work but the HD dependability will not be there. tie rings,timing and valve train are a bit better." Do you think it's worth it, or is the stock engine ok? Thanks again!

Hi Guys-- Thanks for that. If I'm going to replace all that stuff (I'm having this done at a shop), would I be better off just dropping in a remanufactured engine? THere's a place here near Albany, NY, that does them as long blocks--925.00 after core switch for a reg. 22re, and 1,150 for an HD version. (Then shippin of course another 240.00 R/T. ) Guess I need the HD? (BTW, how do I know if the one I have now is an HD?). I have no idea what it would cost to install. Well, looks like about 2k? But, if the current engine is not an HD, then...

Hi All-- Could crusing at 65- 70 mph (not in high elevations) with a 22re in a small RV (15' popup) cause the head gasket to blow? Or would that just indicate an old or weak gasket? This apparently happened to my Bandit, though it didn't feel like I was "forcing" the engine, except in a few cases when passing (when I got up to 75) or on a couple hills. Also, what swap options are there for this engine, if any? (a more powerful 4 cyl? I assume a 6 cyl not possible..) best...

Hi All-- Need some help/advice. Here's the story: Bought the '87 Bandit 22re on ebay, 152 k but seller claimed replacement engine with 80k. Drove form ND to NY, 65-70, occassionally up to 75. All went well till I stoped for about an hour in Conneau, OH, to have a look at Lake Erie. When I started out again, had to idle a bit for a long freight; shut off car and noticed some coolant overflow from I assumed the overflow tube. When I started again, temp had climbed dangerously high, though not in the red area; as I started moving, temp dropped, then, as I got onto freeway, edged up again. I pulled off a service station, assuming a stuck thermo; the mechanic replaced the thermostat and all was fine again for the next 300 miles. Then, after negotiating some upstate hills, and having to downshift to 2nd once (this is an auto trans.), and full petal a couple other times to get a low gear to kick in, I rolled down into town (Walton), came to a red light, and suddenly, clouds of white smoke billowing out the back; I wasn't far from home, so thouht I'd try to make it (it was about 12:30 AM Sat), went maybe another 1/4 mile in chugging spirit, when the DEP police pulled me over for "unnecessary smoke." When I tried to start again, engine had seized. Hydro locked? Noted the coolant level and dropped considerably, and possible low on oil, as well, though I had added a quart earlier in the day. Again, until this moment, plenty of power, etc. I did notice, though, that whenever I started the engine, after a fuel stop, it would rough idle and the charge and brake lights would stay on until I gave it a bit of pedal or got going. Now I'm wondering--did I push the engine too hard, and cause the head gasket to blow, or did I overfill with oil and cause (though I didn't notice any oil leaks), mor should I give the seller a piece of my mind? Most likely the smoke was from the coolant? Bottom line, should I try to fix this, or would I be better off with a salvage or remanufactured engine? If one of the latter, any advice about that?

Sorry--couldn't log on to classified wanted for some reason, but if anybody knows of a small (15'), V6 Sunrader for sale (if such exist), in good shape and no cab rust issues or leaks, etc, or a small (again 15') later model w/2RE or other fuel injected engine, let me know. Willing to trade the '87 Bandit, 22RE as well, as partial payment, for someone looking for a garageable RV.... THanks

Hello out there.... no advices por moi? I'll be driving back from ND toward NY this TH-FR--meet at a Starbucks along the way? South Bend Wal-Mart?

Hi All-- Just bought this on Ebay-- 160371006020 Did I make a mistake? Buyer's remorse--adtually, discomfort; seller claims replacement engine with 80k, but no documentation, a mechanic put it in in his spare time, no contact information for machanic, etc. Says drives great, no probs. etc., everything working, cruises ok at 65-70, oil and fluids recnetly changed, new tires, new radiator when engine installed, etc. Rust appears to be surface, which I could grind out and retouch. But wondering how those particular spots began rusting... Looks like a good deal; acc. to price guidelines, should be worth about 7k, right? (maybe less because a popup?) Anyway, I'm hoping to resell as is at least to recoup my expenses, so will probably list w/2.1k reserve, or may do some remodeling: like taking out bench seat and converting that to a fold-down dinette w/front and rear facing seats; a translucent plexi wall to separate toilet area, and perhaps a wrap-around shower curtain for privacy? maybe also an outdoor shower, or maybe take out some of the kitchen counter and move stuff to make room for a bath area? wondering if the fridge is 3-way and if so how it vents. also considering a window on that back wall, some way to fashion a screen door for back door... any suggestions/ideas about any of this? esp. where to get those ceiling mount shower rings? any thing I should watch out for w/this? can contact direct at tlavazzi@yahoo.com Thanks!