tlava

this seems somehow connected with the ignition, lights left on with motor off, key in ignition before starting, etc--same sound that rings in all these situations, + an extra jingle when going around curves--problem is, it is constant...

Yeah, I don't know what rate schedule these guys use, but they get $97.00/hr! No wonder... they had about 2 hrs to change install just the T-stat, and I guess just charged me book for every thing as if starting fresh, rather than bundling -- even though having the fan clutch and fan off must have made it easier to get to the T-stat.... I don't remember labor for the TPS -- I recall a $77 charge, so that was either the FC or the TPS... I'm going to check They also want $400 for labor to replace lifters! Never mind....

any advice for silencing ding-dong tinker bell? Constant jingling--near center console..

Yes--that was it, the throttle position sensor--is it that hard to get to? Well, I must have paid a mint for diagnostic time....

'86 Nissan 3.0 (V6)--dies at idle with warm engine--will run for a bit, then falter and die; if I rev up idle a bit, no problem. Mechanic says fuel pump is OK--any ideas? He thinks maybe some sort of sensor? They replaced one sensor, but still a problem. Is there a way to read information from the on-board computer, under the passenger seat? would that help? * update--the mechanic said it was a sensor that also controls the idle somehow--he just told me but I forget the name because of the price shock--I had him install a fan clutch and t-stat (parts I had already bought), and the new sensor; the sensor was $155.00, and the total bill $679.00! so labor for those items $500, which I guess must include some diagnostic time? does that seem right?

OK--thanks--I will post next wk--in shop till Monday having an OEM fan clutch installed -- a whole other discussion! I do though I think have the old style, since it is an '86 (Nissan, if that matters) -- but, yes, handle and light above the handle -- the switch is inside the RV -- where do I find the new style replacement? I post pic to "files and photos"? Thanks!

anyone know where I can find a lens for the exterior light near the door on the 18' sunrader? It's different from the one above the door on the 21'--larger and square.. or maybe there is a something to substitute for this? Thanks!

sorry to return from a rather interesting discussion developing on the role of language in self-presentation to more mundane territory (this could be extended to all other modes/media, as well--think, for eg, about the role of image and body language in dramatic performance, persuasive/"motivational" speaking, politics, etc), but, as I say, I bought the OEM t-stat and fan clutch... To gt back to some matter-of-fact questions: why is one OEM t-stat rated a t 180, and another from a diff. dealer at 170 (the one I bought)? Are my installation procedures (as outlined on post # 15) correct? Also, any advice for what type of wrench to use to get the FC nuts loose? it is a very tight space--about 1/2"--I think last time a borrowed a ratcheting- style crescent wrench from Napa.... OK--back to more interesting issues--it's not so much that others fool us; we fool ourselves: we want to believe there is someone out there who can provide the formula for "happy ever after"...

great discussion. I want ahead and ordered an OEM from a local Nissan dealer, mainly because it was rated at 170, rather than 180 like the one the "other" Nissan dealer had... it cost a few bucks more than the Duralast made to OE specs, but what the heck... figured I'd have my cake and eat it. as for installation on the Nissan V6-- the little i guess air relief (or "jiggle") valve should be at 12:00? First funnel in coolant till the funnel fills and stops funneling, then put in t-stat and seal up? (high temp silicone?)? as for the current t-stat-- which is actually new, but not sure what temp etc-- once removed, might make a good sound box, with a few strings attached, to start the parts party off....

Curious--I checked OEM Nissan online,and they told me the t-stat was 180(179.5, or 82 c); I called a local Nissan dealer--OEM part, and it is rated at 169.5 (76.5c)--why the difference, if both OEM parts?

Interesting--OK--so I guess just go with the Duralast for a sawbuck? The Duralast is rated at 170, and the des. on Autozone states--"OE recommended temperature," and, yes, copper and SS construction, whereas the 180 is listed as an "alternate" temp; the t-state on the OEM Nissan site, however (this is a Nissan V6 Sunrader, BTW, if that matters), is rated 82c, = 179.5 fh--I think I'd prefer the Duralast 170 over the Nissan OEM 179.5, if no real quality difference? also, $10 as opposed to $27 after shipping for the name brand /OEM, not that that would be an issue...

anyone here have any experience with FailSafe t-stats? they claim to help prevent overheat events, which seems like a good bit of insurance, but I seem to recall someone either on this board or the Nissan MH board advising to stay away from them for some reason... There is a big price diff--$48 at AZ for a 170 FS, and $11 for a Duralast 170..

David--do you still have the oven? sent you a message, but not sure if you got it...

Not sure--but is this the one that was on CL last spring, I think, in the upper midwest or thereabouts? If so, I believe that one was not a full floater, but an upgrade kit of some sort?. I only mention this because the narrative sounds the same-- the owner was I believe an academic who had died, and his spouse was selling, etc.....anyway, I may be wrong-- it may not be the same one, but I'd ask for CU of the rear hub just to be safe... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1986-Toyota-4x4-18-foot-Sunrader-MotorHome-RV-/170911045875?forcev4exp=true

but it's interesting--the loss of coolant doesn't seem to be causing the overheating---i.e., it's always been full, as far as I can tell, until this last incident when a bit of it overflowed. It's just that the coolant gets really hot...so are you saying that would be due to the exhaust gasses getting into the coolant, not from the heat of the gas, but just because it makes the coolant less effective, or somehow chemically lessens the amt of heat it can carry? I really hate to tear into this if the HG is not at fault--it will, I think, be an expensive job. To answer John's question--this really hot once before, as I said, on my way back from Oregon after buying the RV--but not until a few days of hard driving later. After that, it seemed to be OK; I drove it from FL to NY without an overheating issue. It sat up in NY for a couple months, until I took it out just recently. Once on the freeway, I noticed the temp start to climb, but I pulled over before it got too close to the H; after turning the engine off, then on again, the temp would begin to drop, so I assumed a fan issue. This last incident, I pushed on a little further, to see if the fan would kick in and the temp would begin to drop without my pulling over, stopping the engine, etc Well, the temp kept rising, and when it got just to the line, I pulled over--that's when I saw the reserve tank begin fill up, bubbling and boiling... I just happened to think--could the bubbling and rumbling (I was afraid the reserve tank might actually explode, it was so animate--the tank itself was moving, not just the fluid inside) have been due to gas in the fluid, rather than had Heat? though it was also very hot--steaming when it came out... when things settled down, I continued on with out incident, but when I got off the freeway and into stop and go traffic, as I say, the temp started to climb, which it had NOT done previously .... Oh wait, not quite true--when driving about in Tallahassee in traffic, this past winter, before driving up to NY (as mentioned above), it also started to run hot while at idle, though once I started moving, it would cool down. I think this is when I first started to suspect the fan clutch and changed it out. Then I did the White Shepherd gasket seal stuff and drove it back to NY, as I say, without incident, and had no problems on the freeway or in city traffic, until now...

Ok, so where am I... maybe fan is OK; this leaves poss of a blockage--but if the fluid is not circulating, why would it be so hot? and the other poss. could be hydrocarbon gasses seeping into the fluid and superheating it? this is the first I heard about not being able to use diff brands of anti freeze---this is really the case? seems like this information should be printed on the jugs, in that case.... I did also read the MOPAR is a better brand to get because it includes a small amt;. of sodium silicate to help seal leaks?

Well, it's a new radiator, so no previous stuff; I have, as I say, myself added White Shepherd (though that is a non-particulate sealer) and have mixed different brands of coolant--does that matter?--i.e., after the t-stat was replaced, and the shop added whatever coolant they added (they also say they added something to the coolant for some reason--can't remember what), I topped of reserve with a diff brand. Do I have the "crack the motor" for a blockage? won't a coolant system/ block flush take care of that? the fan, to clarify, doesn't spin like a pinwheel, but didn't seem snug, either--pretty easy to move and I could get probably a revolution or two out of it with a middling push--as contrasted to a blade or two when it is engaged... on a 3k trip from Or to FL, it got hot once, just outside of SL, but was OK the rest of that trip (I replaced the radiator cap then); as I say, i just had the radiator cap replaced a second time... that was the mechanic's decision, since he said it wasn't building pressure, which I still don't exactly understand...

Well, I replaced all that stuff because various folks suggested those might be the problems--all replaced most likely unnecessarily. There is no evidence of moisture in oil or coolant in exhaust that I can detect, but in case of a small seepage just beginning in the head gasket, allowing gasses to maybe get into coolant, I put the White Shepherd stuff in... now I'm wondering if I should try a system flush and another White Shepherd treatment, since I had to do the first one in two installments, not having drained out enough coolant to get th whole bottle in

should also add that I added some White Shehperd gasket seal at one point, suspecting a HG leak, but have driven since without an overheat issue...but could this stuff cause a blockage? it is not a fiber-type sealer, and product claims will not...

Oh--also--can you explain metal block thing? what is that--what do I ask for at a parts store--, where do I get one, how attached, etc....

a " tear down" means also replacing the head gasket? so when replacing coolant, check each morning when cold, before starting engine, and if low, top off? it was full prior to this last incident (couldn't fit any more coolant in), though it was at the "min" level when cold in the reserve tank. So what about the idea of hydrocarbons superheating the fluid? not accurate? can I rule out a head gasket issue?

Hi All-- Had this to 3 mechanics, at least--none of them can find anything wrong. Got on the freeway the other day after knocking around on mountain roads for about an hr., and sure enough, once I got it up to 70 on the freeway, the temp started climbing and didn't stop--almost like not having a fan at all; when it got to the H, I pulled off--the reserve tank filled up and was boiling and bubbling like a witch's cauldron...I lost a little bit of the steaming coolant out the overflow hose. Vexingly, when I first opened the hood, I could turn the fan fairly easily. After letting the RV sit for about 10 mins to cool off, the fan actually tightened up--almost like extreme delayed reaction or as if it is working in reverse, or as if something--too much wind through the radiator?--I don't know--is keeping the fan from kicking in. In any case, once the temp dropped down a bit below the H, I started on the road again, and the engine began to cool down; I kept the speed at 65 and under. Things seemed OK till I got off the freeway and into stop and go traffic--the temp started to climb again, which it normally does not do. I parked a few minutes later, opened the hood, and noticed the hoses were collapsed. I started it again, since the fan had tightened up, and it began to cool down well despite collapsed hoses. This has me mystified. Could it be the that i have a slight head gasket leak on the exhaust side, and hydrocarbons are getting into the coolant and superheating it? Is it just a problem with the fan (which, as mentioned previously, is new)? I assume the t-stat is not the problem,since the water is plenty hot (i.e., water has to be circulating, but for some reason getting/staying tooo hot) I hasted to add that there are no detectable power issues, no white smoke which might indicate coolant burning off in the exhaust, and no water in the oil Again, I'm puzzled--and the problem even seems even worse now since the last mechanic replaced the new t-stat with another new one of the same temp rating (170) and put on a new radiator cap to replace the already new cap claiming that it wasn't building up enough pressure--seems like plenty of pressure to me.... Does anyone know a mechanic in the area who might be able to figure this out? The vehicle is currently in Binghamton, NY...

Yes I believe the tranny is cooled both by the radiator and secondarily by the tranny cooler--I believe both sets of hoses were still connected... but I wonder if when I had the new radiator put in, that was still the case? If I crawl under I should be able to tell?

Yes--thanks--I do have a tranny cooler....I'm can't remember if it bypasses the radiator, or just adds an extra cooling option--I'll have to look at the lines again..

Ok--this is all helpful. My reserve tank though has a "Min" and "Max"--so it the "Min" = "cold"?