tlava

Thanks!--so just the brush-on rust converter stuff and undercoating paint or just the black Rustoleum auto paint (I think they make one specifically for undercoating purposes) The main frame members seemed pretty typical--didn't suggest sheet metal--but maybe I need to look more closely... though the thin cross member holding the spare tire apparatus did definitely sound like what you are describing... Oh. also, the tranny and maybe fuel lines seem to have the worst of it--but I think I would have a shop to it, rather then mess with it myself, so wondering what I'd get into, Can they be replaced with non-metal lines?

Just bought a vehicle in WI (a one-owner, 84 Bandit with a 22RE--body in great shape, since it had been garaged--even still has gloss!-, but driven very little (over last 16 yrs only 13k miles)--74 k total on rig The car has been dealer maintained, but they told the previous owner not to worry about changing the timing chain, so I guess that should be changed? no noise at start up, though... Things I've concerned about: a shake/rough idle (no misses)-I have a separate post about this since it is a WI vehicle, there is quite a bit of surface rust on undercarriage--more than I'm accustomed to seeing--,I guess the owner never bothered to rinse the road salt off the undercarriage-- and the lines are rusty in places--should I replace all the lines, preventatively, and what might I expect to spend? also wondering if the frame should be treated, and what that might run into--I guess it can't be sand blasted--should I just scrape the loose rust off and spray coat with undercarriage coating? DYI? The frame member in rear that holds the spare tire also has some flex in it--don't know if this is a problem, singe it is a thin, L-bracket to begin with (the type you often find as cross members in the old trailers) though an easy enough DYI replacement, I guess...? amazingly, the hood air vents have not rotted out and so the floorboards are in excellent shape--since I guess this has been consistently garaged. I'm also wondering if there is anything else I should do--should I add a tranny cooler? should I do an engine flush and add a quart of Rislone, just to condition rings a bit if the vehicle has had little use? most of the use over last several yrs has been around town, rarely over 45 mph, according to owner 92 yr old orig owner... BTW--this is an "Xtracab," which I have not run into before--any clever suggestions about what to do with the extra ---I guess about 16--24"?

Anyone have any experience with/knowledge of these shops, and/or comparisons: APR. EnginesUS, JIS, or Oregon engine rebuilders I've use the latter two Also, any other recs for new/rebuilt? APR offers a new, complete 22re long block, all OEM (Japanese castings, they say--engine shipped new from Japan) for 2.2k, incl shipping--sounds like a good deal; they are located in CO EnginesUS also offers a new engine, also from Jap,, I think, for about 1.7k; ARP has a 3-yr unlimited mile warranty, and EnginesUS a 12 mo unlimited mile warranty ALso, any ideas about RE v R-ET? is the ET a "problem" engine?

oil pressure gauge reads on low side at idle (picks up if I shift to neutral and step up idle slightly), and also a bit rough --not irregular, but a bit of a shake--do I need to set up the idle? is this a tune-up issue? Seems fine when driving.

OK--so a 90s RE? but is there any diff bet a 90s RE and, say, an '85, '87, etc? did the design change again after '85? a late model RE is pref. to an R-TE (which was only produced to '88, right?)? I've been talking to Oregon rebuilders, and they claim I can get up to 140 HP with some changes to the head (or maybe it was head + exhaust system--clarifying that now...) I'm just looking for a comfortable cruise at about 65-70 with the small RV (not the 21 footer...)--a 350 I don't need...though a V6 Vortex might be nice, if it would go in there...

any ideas about least expensive way to get a new AC system into an '84 (22re)? it will have to be a new system--no current one installed.

Wondering--is there a way to increase HP significantly without switching out the engine? Would OS valves on a reman head help? Otherwise I was thinkig of switching for a later model reman RE or TE, though the current engine only has 75 k, so not sure if I should do that? Maybe some upgrades to the current engine would be better?

Oh--also, can the '84 22 R-E be switched out for a later model, or even a R-TE?

Thanks--but as far a the cylinder heads, timing chain--are those used on the '84 22R-E compatible with the same yr 22R? I guess not because the R-E is fuel injected, so different head design? Also wondering if the block is cast iron and the heads alloy, or all cast iron?

Thanks--yes, I've read the Wikipedia stuff already, but that didn't really answer my question--as far as parts availability for this particuIar model; I was hoping for advice from someone in the group who might actually know these engines--also, the HP difference is a concern for me--is there really that much diff between 105 and 112? also will the torque diff make a diff?

Is this a good engine? will I have trouble/w parts, since the '85 designg changed? Does this mean that some parts were used only on the '84 R-e, that would have been used neither on the 22r nor the RE from 85 on? Rated I believe at 105 HP v 112 hp for the 85? Will I notice this power difference?

RE rust: make sure to check UNDER the carpets in the cab--you'll have to remove the jambs, but the screws are probably rusted anyway--get a look at the actual floorboards: common problem in older Toys--hood ari intakes rot out internally, water runs down inside firewall, under carpet, and rots the boards from inside out. No fix for rotted air vents, that I know of--anyone have a solution for this? Drill drain holes, fiberglass the boards, and wear boots...

Hi Folks-- I'd like to transport a couple Kayaks on my '18 foot Sunrader -- is this possible? has anyone done this? what sort of carrier would I need?

Hi All-- sorry to cross post--can you check my question under the "Engines..." etc category? it was an old thread, so not sure anyone saw it... Thanks!

Hey folks--got a Hayden 10-" elec. fan I want to install as supplemental cooling--only place for it is in front of the AC condenser, and I will have to carve out a bit of the inside of the truck's plastic grill to fit the 2.5" width at the middle; the fan housing will then rest against the AC condenser, I assume leaving enough clearance to spin freely (instructions say 1" min,though not sure if it is a full inch); instructions also say to but the plastic lock rods through the condenser of radiator, but not both--I will have to go through both, since there is barely an inch bet. the radiator and AC condenser--anyone have any experience with these as supplemental cooling and installing then in such a tight space? This is an "86 Nissan D21

TB solved--door-open-w-key-in-ignition switch was sticking... no lifter noise... smooth sailing...

Right--sorry; '86 Nissan D21 pickup...

Thanks!--the dome light thing rings (pun intended) true, since the dome light will flicker on and off over bumps, when set in the door-open-light-on position; I was hoping there might be a module to unplug--guess I'll begin the hunt. I don't think there is a seat belt warning.... I'll have to double check It's an '86 shorty Sunrader

no wonder the lifters were making noise--as soon as I changed the oil, the faulty oil filter started dumping it on the ground; ran at idle maybe half a minute one day, then not more than a minute the next before I noticed it--I didn't drive it, just started it to see if the lifters would quiet down if I got the oil circulating, then looked underneath as I usually do to check for leaks--wow; put the old filter back on and no problem; I had to add 3-3.5 quarts, though, but as soon as I did, no lifter noise (just a bit at startup)--so I'm assuming not harm done?

Thanks for the link--does the year matter? (this is an '86...)

I installed a reman. Nissan v6 (VG30e, 3.0L; was 30i before rebuild). JIS (Japan Engine) engine did the rebuild, which now has 3k miles on it. JIS does not, however, put in new lifters--they recondition or "rebuild: them; I used non-syn oil for the first 3k miles, and just now changed to Castrol High Mileage "part-syn." When the engine was first installed, it seemed to make a bit of lifer noise on start up, which disappeared; after this recent oil change, using the part-syn, the noise seemed louder and did not go away after about 30 sec (I have not driven the car yet, however, since the change)-- my question is: should I go back to non-syn oil? should I replace the lifters with the orig ones, which I saved (since the engine had only 70k miles on it)? should I buy new, aftermarket lifters? should I just ignore the noise and carry on?

Thanks for the link--unfortunately, I don't have a trip reset on the NIssan. This is a standard ding-dong that seems to be tied in to --lights left on, keys left in ignition, and I guess the dome light as well in the auto/door open position; I do notice that the dome light will sometimes pop on going over bumps, etc, when left in the auto position, so maybe related to that? Besides the ding-dong, there is a "tilt" signal--at least I guess that is intentional--that is a ringing trill when the RV tilts or goes over bumps, Otherwise, it is a steady ding-dong

This is actually an '86 v6 Nissan SR--a constant ding dong, then a wind chime-like trill whenever a slight tilt or bump..

An annoying jingle--same sound that alerts key left in ignition, lights left on, etc, with an extra flourish when going around curves--problem is, it is continuous; any idea how to silence this? it seems to come from center console (radio/cig/heat/AC control cluster--somewhere around there...)

Here's a link you might want to check--orig. Bargman w/free shipping: http://www.hitchanything.com/Bargman-Assist-Bar-Lighted-with-Switch-Chrome-70-32-001.html