tlava

But how do you ID the part, just "2-hole t-stat"? or is there a more technical moniker... It's also the up and down that gets me: Could air bubbles also be causing the temp fluctuation? or a faulty water pump?

First I heard about the 2-holed t-stat, but how/where would I get that?

I thnk the previous owner had it flushed at some point--probably several years but only a few k miles age, since it has only been driven about 5k miles over the last 12 yrs. I'l have to check back through receipts. I have not replaced anything yet. I had heating issues with the SR--replaced everything cooling-system related under the hood, including the temp sensor, with no improvement, and eventally replaced the engine, as well... Should the temp readings at the top be double the readings on the radiator itself only a few inches from the top (as from 80 t0 160 for eg)? seems like I'm not getting an accurate reading? (maybe for some of the reasons mentioned above)? Also, my "check engine" light popped on BRIEFLY while on the drive back from tne City to Catskills (stayed on for maybe a minute while on the Thruway). Could this be related to the temp problem? JUST CHECKED: coolant system was flushed in Oct. 07, when vehicle had 72k miles; now has 75k...

Well, the readings seem fairly consistent--79-80 or so across radiator, part way down (but near top), and 160-170 across the very top; temp at t-stat housing 150-160, 170 on valve cover; didn't read block but will do. does any of that sound right? Didn't notice any areas that had a vastly different temp, though may need a more thorough check--a bit rainy out. it seems the fan may be interferring with the reading? should I warm up the engine, shut it off, then check temp? Also, not sure how close to get, since the closer the smaller the area of the reading; had to angle down between radiator and back side of grill to get a reading on the radiator one review of the infrared sensor claimed the device had to adjust to ambient temp to get a good reading, though not sure why that would matter, since the lazer did the reading, I thought....actually, not quite sure how the infrared and lazer work together

bought the temp reader a local HF outlet that just opened in Brooklyn (same price); they also had a higher priced one with a gun handle, it a wider temp range. I tried pointing this a few things, like the side of the bathtub while I was occupied otherwise, but it seems to fluctuate a lot, or give diff.readings each time I press the button. No special trick to this, right--just aim, click, release? I did zap hot water coming out of the tap, and got 97, so it seems to work, but just has a lot (as much as a degree or two or more sometimes) of variance, unless I'm not doing something right... most of the reviews raved about the accuracy...

I will get one of these and report back, reading left to right, starting at the top, moving across horizontally, and working down--maybe taking readings at top, middle, and bottom? and three or four spots across each section? would this do it? What would be the best spot(s) to read on the engine itself? (don't know if this is useful, since I won't be able to "catch" the engine in a hot reading, but maybe just to verify accuracy of temp sensor?--not sure where that is located on this engine...)

am I looking for cold spots in the radiator with the temp device can I measure enging block temp as well

I'm wondering--the radiator seems on the small side to me--is it possible the rediator is udersized, or would a larger one help, if even possible to put one in? Linda--I wasn't sure what you were referring to when you said "no it can"? Sorry, can you explain? so, I should replace the t-stat and the radiator? OR I guess have flow tested first? Here we go again...

No mistake--it is a 22 RE in an SR5, auto, Xcab: I can send a pic if you like... As for the heat: I did notice that if I throw the heat on w/ fan it will bring the temp down, but it will climb up even with the heat on, though not quite as much; also, I just don't get the fluctuation, unless the t-stat could be somehow opening and closing, or the fan somehow compensates? fluid is plenty hot--too hot to keep hand on radiator-- so it must be circulating... when replacing, and particular details--does the jiggle valve, if it has one, need to be pointing a particular, etc? just drop in the T-stat and top off through the radiator cap? This seems a lot eaiser than with the NIssan vg30i--at least, it looks like I can get to the T-stat easily, just move a couple vacuum or EGR hoses...

So is it common to have moisture at the tail? Not losing coolant that I can tell--the radiator is full to brim when checked cold, and overflow tank a bit over half. I'm afraid reving up etc might cause it to overheat? what would be the right T-stat (temp-wise)? From Toy dealer best?

I noticed a bit of orange-colored residue at the end of the tailpipe, inside. The coolant is ornage. After driving a short distance, there was a bit of moisture at the end of the pipe; there is a slight lip at the end of the tailpipe, which perhaps prevents this be of moisture from draining, so drying, and I assume leaving the residue--which means the moisture is coolant, seeping into the exhaust ports, which means a bad head gasket? Would this explain the erratic temp behavior--staying down at idle, but up high and down, up and down, while driving? Or is some moisture in the tailpipe normal, and the residue just a bit of rust (somehow I think the former, given the temp swings...) vexing....

I seem to have bad luck with engines running hot. Some odd temp fluctuations. Was fine cruising along on the highway. Stopped in the City for a couple hrs, When I started driving again, the temp rose, within a few minutes under load, very close to the red, then dropped back down, and fluctuated like this a few times; standing still at idle (as at a stoplight) it would drop down and stay down, but when under load again, the temp would rise, then drop back down; this was better at night when things cooled off, but still basically the same behavior. Temp never actually entered the red zone, but uncomfortably close... could the t-stat be sticking? I don't think I've lost any coolant, but will see what is in the reserve in the morning. I noticed previously that, after driving the highway for a while, and stopping for gas, when I got back on the road again after maybe a half hour respite, the needle would also climb pretty high--not immediately, but after driving for a minute or so, but then it would drop down and be fine. The fluctuation in city traffic is a recent development... This is an '84 22 RE; don't know if it matters, but only about 6k miles put on it over the last 12 yrs; 75k total now. Could this have any connection to valves/rough idle, as well? Odd thing, as I say, is it is fine (temp wise) when idling, but only seems to have the prob under load. up, then down... sometimes stays up a bit longer than others...

John--75k miles; '8422re. I know the previous owner had it serviced regularly at a Toy dealer, but don't think either timing chain replaced of valves adjusted. Can any mechanic do this, or is it a dealer job? It doesn't sound as bad as your s was--no stalling at idle, regular, about 700 rpms, but just rough when gear engaged.

If valves were out of adjust, would it idle rough in Park and in Drive? Again, to me, it seems like a regular idle, though just a bit low/rough under load in drive at idle. If valves needed adjustment, would it be more of an irregular rough idle? Though the mechanic mentioned a "miss"...

wow--OK--so these can be bought for your garden-variety garden sprayer? HD, Lowes, WM, or...? I think I have a cheap pump sprayer--which I guess is what we are talking about?

What's "boom"? I think most of the tips are adjustable for fan or stream? I may be wrong...

So a garden bug sprayer would be as good w/ the FF? RE wagner: I checked Home Depot or whoever sells those, and the problem is, there are several different models, depending on the thickness/type of material being sprayed, so I wasn't sure which one to get...

Yes--I was asking about the Fluid Film. POR is pretty expensive; I bought a quart and will try it on the cab itself--areas under the fenders where some surface rust is starting. I think treating the frame sounds like FF is a better choice, but not sure what type sprayer to use...

The rough idle seem only to happen when in gear (drive); all fine in Park or neutral position. It idles at about 1k rpm in Park, and drops to 700 and holds seady but as I say a bit rough when in drive. Does this suggest anyting more specific?

putting in all new brake, trann, gas lines. About $600.00-$700.00 I guess w/tax. RE fluid film: does anyone know what typr of wagner spray gun to get? there are different types for thicker or thinner mixtures...

Heyy--so does anyone have any experience with the Por stuff? One app would seem better than yearly app of Fluid Film--but will it work? is FF still better? What would be the diff, say, between paining with Por and coating with fiberglass resin?

Thanks for link--would the idea be to scrape of loose rust first, then either apply rust converter or paint the frame with Rustoleum, and THEN coat with the fluid, or skip the othter stuff and just coat with the fluid? i.e, do you think this will this prevent the current rust from spreading/worsening, as well a prevent new rust/additional? How often would it have to be reapplied, in your experience?

I read the instructions on the rust converter stuff which state that there must be some rust on the metal for the chemical to work, but also that if you get the chemical on metal that is NOT rusted that it may actually cause rust, so then I guess there will then be rust for it to treat--what the heck? Maybe I'd do better to let a shop treat the frame?

BTW--a lot of you folks are gear heads, I know... but any prof mechanics out there--I mean, who are working one other people's cars? Or maybe you have a rec? I'm between Tallahassee, FL and NY... the Wisconsin car will also be going from WI to NY early July... even if one of you could take a look at it, and advise, would help...Thanks!

Hmmm--same stuff (copper/nickel) on tranny and fuel lines? is this the same stuff used for propane lines? How often would one have to do the oil treatment, for example?