Shoprat

Howdy Bill. I don't understand. You seem to be on the disscussion board.

Howdy Robert. Be sure to check the sealant at the base of your clearance lights. I sealed my windows and was still getting water leaks. I pulled the headliner back from the ceiling inside, had my wife spray the area with a waterhose( from the outside , of course) and found the lights were leaking. I installed new lights because the old ones were corroded from 20 years of living life on the edge. When I did that, no more leaks.

Howdy Dorothy and Alan Would there be any chance that you could put a shorter awning on your rig and avoid the door altogether? Go from the back of the rig forward to the opening side of the door? This is what we have. We have the roll up style with no permanent brackets. Takes some time to put up, but it keeps the sun off.

Howdy yostfmx. Try this site... http://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/rv-lock...0Bargman%20L100

What Maineah said. Around here the tool is known as a pickle fork.

Howdy John A. Driving in overdrive on the flat or small hills is fine. This WILL increase your gas mileage. However, in very hilly country, or in mountains, don't use overdrive. The constant shifting is harder on the trans. What you save in gas mileage, you pay later in tranny overhauls. As far as the rear axle ratio goes, he's fulla it. That 4.10 axle ratio means the drive shaft makes 4.1 revolutions to 1 revolution of the rear wheels . A 4.58 ratio means that the driveshaft makes 4.58 revs to 1 rev of the rear axle. Therfore, the engine has to make more revs to drive the driveshaft more revs to move the vehicle at the same speed. This sucks more gas. You will accelerate more quickly with the 4.58, but you will burn more gas. To really get more gas mileage, you would have to drop down to a 3.90 ratio or so to burn less gas. Case in point, I once put a larger engine in my Dodge pick-up. The pick-up had a 4.10 rear end that was installed with the 6 cyl from the factory. The gas mileage with the V-8 and 4.10 rear end was 4 miles per gallon! I then installed a rear axle ratio of 2.90. The mileage jumped to 13 miles per gallon. I lost acceleration, but gained mileage. It was, to me, a good trade off.

Anyone out there use a GPS unit ? If so, any reccomendations as to Brand, model ? Thankee

Tried to PM ya, but your PM mail box is full.

Howdy All. There have been posters here that have asked me about my front brake rotors and pads. I found the info, so here it is; Raceshopper.com Slotted rotors, part # T52-2724 Rofren brake pads part # RD303 Now, be carefull. These part numbers are about two years old,and are for an 86 1 ton. The site has a catalog list, so go by that. Hope this helps.

Howdy Fluck. To get a fair idea of a Toy Motorhome price, go to the home list on this site... scroll down to Yahoo Toyota Campers link and click on it... This willl bring up their site. Of on the left hand side of the screen is a box with their site links in it, click on " Files".. When you get to files, scroll down a ways to a file named " 101 Pricing Guidelines" They will give you various items to check off just like a Car Blue Book.. Hope this helps.

Sorry Fire. I read your post but I have NO idea on how to deal with your problem. Rather than clutter up the site with ignorant speculation( which is my specialty), I stayed silent. I will now go back to scratching flea bites and stacking BBs in the corner( also my specialty) Hope someone can help ya out.

Yep, taking it in for an oil change and lube job would be a good idea. If the place is reputable, they will check all fluid levels.This includes the levels in the rear differential, front differential, transfer case, power steering, washer jar, brakes, etc. I like to change my oil and filter every 3000 miles or so. Some folks like to change oil in a motorhome at 5000 miles if it's all highway miles, but I like to be on the safe side.

Howdy 2000 I was a mechanic for 35 years. Most 4 wheel drive components are gears in an oil bath, so as long as the lube levels are where they should be, you'll be fine.

Howdy Dorothy and Allan, Hey ! Why don'cha show up at the October Toy-in in Illinois ? Whats 2500 miles between Toy buds?

Well... Does anyone have anything to say to Greg? Hmmm.. Don't EVEN feed it Gravytrain... Poor mans Nitrous..

Howdy Lew. Good idea on the "weigh the thing". My 21ft Sunrader weighs in at 5860 lbs. This is on a full floater. If that 18 footer comes close to that, a full floater should realy be considered.

Howdy Gypsy. Well, let us see here. New springs will not change whether your rear axle bearings and axles hold up or not. Bearing failure and axle breakage are caused by the load( weight) on the components, and the condition of the bearings and axles. Your rigs rear axle has a single bearing per side, therefore you have two bearings bearing( sorry, unintended pun) probably 75 percent of the total weight of the motorhome. Also this weight is transferred to the road through two tires. A bearing or tire failure can get kinda hairy with this set-up. The lighter weight of the 18 footer will allow this set-up to work for quite a while. The full floater axle set-up has two bearings per side, along with two tires per side. The bearings and tires are also of heavier construction, minimizing the chance of failure. You double your safety. You spoke farther down the site about adding a higher roof on your rig. If this is accomplished, you add more weight to the rig, stressing the axle and tires more. I would strongly suggest going with the dually axle, just to be on the safe side. Hope this is informative.

Howdy Texas. In regards to your battery query, yes, there is a chance of a short with the wires just dangling. The coach/ deep cycle battery is charged by the alternator when your driving down the road. If you hit a bump, there is a possiblity that the positive/ charging wire to the battery will hit ground, causing a short. Most of the comfort units( fridge, furnace, lights, water heater) work off of the 12 volt battery source in one way or another. Plugging in at an ac source will allow you to use these units without the battery present, but if you want to camp hook-upless, you should have a battery. That is , unless you really wanna rough it and do without the niceties. And besides, dangling wires or even the thought of dangling wires gives me the creepy-crawlies. Makes me want to gently move someone aside while I attack with my trusty cable ties, wire hangers, and electricial tape. Danglin' wires-ewwwwww. Now I gotta bleach my brain to get rid of the image !

Howdy buick. Really nice looking job. You inspire me to get out there and get at it. Nahhhh- it's 25 degrees Farenheit out there. Think I'll take a nap instead.

Howdy Dan. The aux. battery on my Sunrader has white as power and black as ground.

Howdy Isaac. Best way to find out the polarity on your wiring is to use either a self powered test light or an Ohmmeter and go from the end of the wires where it connects to the battery and the other to the vehicle ground. I'm betting on the black being ground, as you figured, but this makes sure.

I was hoping that someone with newer Toys would reply to this, but I'll stick in my 2 cents worth. I use my overdrive on the flat and in gentle, not too frequent, hill areas. Mine shifts into overdrive at about 57 - 59 miles per hour. I feel it shift into overdrive, then back off the speed a tad and cruise just below 60 miles per hour. I remember reading one time that a wind wall developes in front of a vehicle at 60 mph and increases the wind resistance about four times that at 55 mph. So. I decided to just cruise at about 57 to 59 mph as a good compromise of miles traveled per day and still keep decent gas mileage. The overdrive helps gas mileage a good bit, but in mountains and frequent hills , the constant shifting in and out of overdrive does not do the tranny longetiveity much good. A tranny repair is expensive and will far surpass the money saved in gas mileage by using overdrive excessively. When in doubt, don't . Thats my thoughts.

I would be interested in something in the northeast area. I would love to get back to Maine this summer.

Thanks Moosepuckey. I didn't know that ! I thought that was used for the jack. Dang. I cut off the holder on my spare tire lift with a cut off disk on my grinder. Well, I would have had to roll under the vehicle to use the tool anyway, so, oh well. I bought a spare tire carrier to fit in the hitch receptacle. It is now a LOT easier to get to the spare, and I used the space underneath to install an auxillary gas tank.

Sounds like you got yourself a deal. Looks good . I have seen a few of these around and they look very size friendly. Except for the height, same size as a normal size pickup. I would keep my eyes peeled for a good used dually axle assembly. I have seen U-haul vans built on the same vehicle chassis, if you have a chance to grab one for a donor vehicle. Good luck with the rig, enjoy it, maybe down the road a piece we'll meet up. First rounds on me.