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ronsking

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Posts posted by ronsking

    How/Where to transport a kayak.

    in General Discussion

    Posted

    Like most things, you get what you pay for. I bought a $199 Sea Eagle kayak first just to see how an inflatable worked. I was ok for a small lake or pond. Hard to paddle through wind or waves; high profile. Then got the Grabner which is a high pressure vulcanized inflatable, hard as a basketball when inflated, with a rudder, foot pedals & even a wooden backrest. I've crossed the Mississippi, gone on the Arkansas River, Lake Ontario and many other lakes and rivers. It's pretty robust.

    Inflatable, now that is a good idea since I might be able to lift it. i will have to ask the next door neighbors which inflatable they think is best. My next door neighbor is Sea Kayaker Magazine. They test the boats here, just carry them across the parking lot and launch them off the beach.

    Had a blow out in Louisiana; need tires

    in Engines - Transmissions - Drive Train - Suspension - Chassis - Steering - Exhaust - Tires - Etc.

    Posted

    Thanks for the idea. Tirerack's shipping for 6 to here is $70 which may be safer than driving with no spare. As you mentioned there are local installers here. I will move tomorrow to where I have cell service.

    Go online to tire rack. Find the number and call them. Get the address of their warehouse in Shreveport La. It's about 3 hours away from you but you can make it driving carefully. They have Yokohamas in the size you need in stock, C load range or D. You can pick them up and pay no shipping and they will give you the names of local installers that are reasonable. Not bad, most of us are too far away and pay the shipping.

    Linda S

    Floor wax instead of car wax?

    in General Discussion

    Posted

    My 87 Sunrader had the shine of a chalkboard when I bought it. I experimented with rubbing compounds, cleaners, waxes etc. with not much luck. After reading many polarized comments about Poliglow I gave it a try. The prep work is EVERYTHING. I think most of the negative comments I read were people who just washed their boat or vehicle and then applied coats of Poliglow. That would be a major mess. Use a Scotchbrite pad and clean/scuff it well first. After that it took 8 coats which just wipe on and dry in 10 minutes. It is basically like Mop 'n Glow but has more UV stabilizers.

    Anyways 3 years later and the shine is still on mine.

    http://www.poliglow-int.com/

    Trip reports

    in Trip Reports

    Posted

    You don't have to be nervous. Just understand you will be slow up some steep grades.

    I own a 1987 4 cyl/auto Sunrader and just returned from a 1 month, 4,000 mile trip from western NY state through St. Louis to Wichita, KS, Oklahoma, into Mississippi, through the Arkansas Ozark Mountains, Tennnesee, Kentucky and West Virginia.

    Saw a lot and didn't have any troubles at all.

    Well I bought a sunrader and now come the questions

    in General Discussion

    Posted

    In case anyone is interested here are some b4 and after photos. The angles and lighting are not exact but I think you will see the difference.:)

    Ahh I see. I should have looked at the product you linked closer. I was under the impression it was a one-coat penetrating deal, but what you describe is much better. Definitely making sure the surface has something to adhere to sounds like the key to this type of build-up application. My brother-in-law lives on a sailboat as do a couple of my friends. I'll have to check this stuff out.

    post-2792-12511448322918_thumb.jpg

    post-2792-12511448614182_thumb.jpg

    post-2792-1251144884681_thumb.jpg

    post-2792-12511449075337_thumb.jpg

    Well I bought a sunrader and now come the questions

    in General Discussion

    Posted

    I'm pretty sure the PoliGlow is water based polymer. Water will wash it off until it cures for an hour or so, just like a floor polish. Each coat air dries in a few minutes. You need to apply it in very thin coats which is why you need at least 6. After 3 or 4 coats it will look positively horrendous and you will think you've made a huge mistake, then suddenly it starts looking smooth and shiny. The prep is the key so it will adhere well to the evenly roughened surface, similar to painting.

    There are horror stories and photos of it looking all splotchy and peeling off. I can see how it would peel right off a shiny surface and look splotchy if the surface isn't evenly cleaned and roughened.

    <br />Ya clear coats are meant to go on top of special flat paint designed for clear coats.  Clear coating a fiberglass gel coat doesn't seem the best move.  <br /><br />The poliglow looks interesting.  It must be some kind of penetrating oil based product?  Those work well if you keep applying them every so often.  Maybe they've gotten better over the years and are a viable substitute for good ole fashion polishing techniques.  Definitely the clear coat should come off regardless.<br />
    <br /><br /><br />

    Well I bought a sunrader and now come the questions

    in General Discussion

    Posted

    Hello,

    I've just finished using Poli Glow on my '87 Sunrader and the fiberglass shines like new.  It isn't for gelcoats that can be easily rubbed out and waxed. You MUST scrub the entire surface with a scotch brite pad and their cleaning prep first. Then the Poli Glow is applied like Mop n Glow (this stuff is probably similar with some UV blockers added). I did my home, roof and all, in 3 days. Next year just do a good washing and put on 2 coats.

    http://www.poliglow-int.com/

    It was promoted for restoring old fiberglass boats and has been around for a while. Seems to be a bit of a war going on between some who hate it and others who swear by it. It was tested by a couple of boating magazines with good results. I belive if you skimp on the prep work you willl have a disaster.

    I'm very satisfied!

    QUOTE (nibs @ Aug 11 2009, 10:02 PM) Buy some cut polish and try that, it wont hurt anything, you can use it on a power buffer see if that works.

    plan b try alcohol (on the FG only) see if that will cut the clear coat.

    in a spot that you won't see

    plan c try Paint thinner,

    plan d then paint remover

    plan e then acetone, but be very careful with acetone because it is a solvent for fiberglass. work in small areas and wipe it on with a dampened cloth & wipe it right off. experiment in an area that wont show.

    You might even try cooking oil smear the oil on then rub back and forth with your hand or finger.

    1500 grit wet sanding by hand may work, but it will be lots of work, you bring it back to a shine with cut polish then polish.

    If it has made a chemical bond with the fiberglass, the only two things that will work are an abrasive - cut polish or something a bit more aggressive, 1500 grit or possibly even valve lapping compound, or acetone. You are much safer with cut polish.

    Acetone is horrible stuff, very flammable, I once worked with a young man who was inside a fiberglass yacht when acetone fumes ignited, he was very lucky to get out, and is scarred for life.

    lol yeah i'm currently useing 1000 grit sand paper and have only a small spot done and my back arms and neck are killing me!!!  was in a frenzy yesterday to find an easier way.  so thanks for your suggestions.  i will work my way through them with the exception of maybe the acetone as i have enough problems without possible scarring myself for life!

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