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wistoy

Toyota Advanced Member
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Posts posted by wistoy

  1. I have completed my recarpet/ flooring -- found it to be realy simple, I removed the seats, then the carpet, and used the old carpet as patern to cut the new carpet (industrial jute backed) the original carpet in the cab was held in place with self tapping sheet metal screws, I srewed the new carpet down, and stapled were the carpet meet the house floor. (replaced with a wood grain vynil 3" x 30") The whole job was about 8 hrs.

    The part that worred me was the carpet on the walls, well after Linda S's post I removed the carpet from these areas and again used them as a patern and stapled the new on, Also replace my cab headliner.

    I is amazing how simple our homes are put together, - So just dig in!

    I was also suprised by the part wall between the cab and home is only 1/4 inch ply. with an air gap of 2 to 3 inches between, open at the bottom, and only covering the gap with carpet.

    I did not realize how shop wore my original carpet was, glad I replaced,------- but to someone who didn't see the two side by side, you might not know I did anything :detective2:

    Thanks for the help with sugestions. It let me know it wouldn't "explode or disinigrate if I touched it :first:

    Dale 89 SeaBreeze

  2. Advice on a 1500 watt inv. I installed a second coach battery (vented and sealed box), bought a 1500 pure sine wave inverter, to install, but when I read the cautions I am not sure if I should install -- heat warnings, and warnings not to set on near anything flamable (dry rv framing, and or carpet?) How do you deal with the heat from the inverter?

    I do use a roof top mounted 80 watt solar tops up my batterys for night time use, not sure about the auto pilot furnace demand on the batterys ( using a buddy heater instead- but would like to leave one more piece of equipment home)

    The inverter's need is mainly for 2 CPAP machines, and 1500 is overkill, but I like the option for other use.

    Dale

  3. We will have to compare sites! (Wausau) - lots of great county parks also - very reasonable, and many private campgroulds also, I have found the private range from $14 to $29 north of hwy 10, and south ranging upto $40. And quite a few national campgrounds, price based on location and offerings.

    Our favorite are being Thomahawk area, withing 45min of home.

    Dale

    Here in Wisconsin we have had to have a state park sticker for as long as I can remember. It is currently $25 for the first sticker and $12.50 for extras. That does not include the cost of camping. I have no problem paying for the stickers. My family and I use the state parks at least twice a week all year long. I go kayaking, hiking, skiing, swimming, camping, and just hanging out.

    Here in south central Wisconsin, there is not any federal land, most of the property is privately owned and it is illegal to enter it without permission. So, I use the state land a lot.

  4. I have removed and replace all the flooring, including the cab area, and would like to replace the carpet that is on the wall between the cab and camper, as well as around the opening of the overhead bunk. Has anyone removed the capet and know what is behind?

    I have even contemplated overlaying the existing area with a low knap comercial carpet, and stapling it on (comercial air op stapler) but I am not sure what is behind the carpet, and I would not like to staple thru the outer fiberglass.:headbonk:

  5. Being that I requested a WI venue, I feel bad that again this year we will not be able to attend, My service advisor has taken a new job, and I am now chained to my business untill I can find and train a replacement, all our summer plans are on hold.:Poster_oops:

    Thank you

    Dale

    Reservation Reminder: Need to get our reservations in by April 30th to ensure that

    all our sites are together, and that we have sites. Campgrounds in the Wisconsin Dells

    area do fill up fast in July.

    Thanks,

    Dennis B.

  6. For my home I used NAPA - walker exhaust for a 1ton 1988 pickup truck, (1989 sea breeze), the exhaust fit good to the rear of the axle, where I added a 90* corner, and cut a length of 10' 1 3/4 inch pipe to the length I needed to clear the rear bumper,

    Be careful to route the new exhaust in the same way as the original, and use new hangers leaving proper spacing from the floor of you home, and tanks, (hot exhaust on our wood floors can cause fires).

    Remember your truck is a year older than your Mhome.

    Dale

    On 4/4/2012 at 12:36 PM, kdr2171 said:

    Hello, I have a 1986 Toyota Dolphin and it needs to have the exhaust pipes replaced. I went to my local NAPA and they looked at me like I had 6 heads when I told them what it was for. Any ideas on where to get the pipes for this? Thanks

    Keith

  7. I don't think you can hire a competent tech for less than 85/hr At least not in our area, sure theres the guys that will work cheep but take 4 times longer, and then you can take it in and have it fixed the right way.

    Don't be fooled into thinking "it's only 12v" 12 v can be as deadly as 120v and just as easly start a fire if there are bad, or over loaded conections.

    Don't be afraid of your own work, but only do it if you know what you are doing.

    Dale

    Wistoy

    You have a broken wire or a blown fuse that is keeping the battery from supplying power to the other 12 volt items.

    Here is a generic power diagram that is meant to give you an idea of how the different power systems are tied together.

    You'll need to get a voltmeter and learn how to use it to measure voltage and resistance, OR, you'll pay someone $65 / hour to do it for you.

    post-4544-0-69273900-1333451389_thumb.jp

    John Mc

    88 Dolphin 4 Auto

  8. I looked into the tabs for my own toyhome. The payback was like 100,000 miles.

    Also talked to my friend ( manager of trucking form a major manufacture), the products do work but payback is a long way off,

    Bug shields on a pickup usualy cost 1mpg. in fuel because of the change in airodinamics.

    When I used to run a trucking company we install a buble like product to the box over the cab, which saved about 1mpg.

    Maybe a custome molded unit over the cab, and flares from the cab doors to the mh body?

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