[Fuel Pump Failure]

Thanks for everyone's input. I guess the best course of action would be to listen for the fuel pump to get loud and then consider replacing it.

Would then like to ask who has experienced a failed fuel pump on a 22RE (Not necessarily the RV):

1. How long would the fuel pump take from having symptom (eg loud pump noise) to complete failure?

and

2. Everytime I refuel the rv it usually takes around 13.5 gallons on average, would that be too low?

Again, thanks for your advice.

[Fuel Pump Failure]

Thanks to everyone who has replied. May I ask the followings:

1. Did anyone do a preemptive replacement on the pump? Or rather wait until it fails?

2. At what mileage would you consider doing a replacement?

3. Is it better to carry a Denso OEM model fuel pump as spare?

4. If the fuel pump fails on the road, is it considered impossible to replace by yourself?

5. Should I also carry the fuel filler neck and vent as spare? Do you know where I can get that?

6. Did anyone experienced a fuel pump failure on their toyota RV? I understand we drive our RV very much differently than our daily vehicle like maybe even with the same engine and setup the same part may fail at different intervals.

Again, thanks to everyone for their input.

[Fuel Pump Failure]

Hello everyone I have a 1987 Dolphin with close to 120,000 miles. I am wondering when the fuel pump will fail - It's not something it has happened to me yet but I would like to ask if there are any symptoms of fuel pump failing and at approximately what mileage it will fail. I really don't like to idea of being stranded somewhere with a dead fuel pump. Would anyone do a preemptive replacement on it?

Thanks for your advice.

[1 Thing you will NEVER leave with out?]

My GPS!

[Help a girl out!]

Hi Guys, I just picked up a 86 Travel master for 2K with 105k on it. I think I got an alright deal. Everything seems to work but I am so unfamiliar with these things. I wanted to be able to take my kids camping and make out rides up north more fun. Anyway I have a few questions if you all could help me out.

Does the truck motors alternator feed the interior lights, plugs and a/c?

No, you'll need shore power (electric hookup) for that. However, the house battery will feed the interior lights. Generally appliances that requires 110V AC will require either electric hookup or a generator.

Does anyone know where to find a rebuild kit for the kohler 2.5? I cant find them anywhere. Does it have it's own battery?

I do not know the answer to that question.

Can I put a adapter on the big washing machine plug so I can use a regular plug?

Yes, I use an adapter like that for my rig.

Is using propane for the frig at all economical?

Very economical, from my experience, it just cools down slower than in electric mode.

Any recommendations for insurance co?

I live in British Columbia, and our only insurance company is a crown corporation, definitely someone else will be able to answer your question better.

Happy Camping!

Thanks so much!

[Cooling down the 22RE]

Wow, this is an old thread... I read through all the posts..

Did the injectors improve the temperature problem?

Yes, it did. Before the temp would at times reach the top of the normal temp zone (the top of the white zone), now it would reach maximum 2/3 within the white zone.

[Cooling down the 22RE]

From my Aviation experience - Piston Aircraft - The pilot can adjustment the mixture to optimize for performance, power, economy, and cooling.

poor mixture control could easily cause high temperatures (to lean) and less power (too lean or to rich)

Electronic FI (automotive) optimizes to burnt O2, (when in closed loop)

A nice thing about Fuel Injection vs Carbaurated - With Carbs, the fuel/air mixture to each cylinder can vary fairly significantly. With FI, the mixture to each cylinder is almost exact and balanced. This is one of the reasons why FI outperforms Carb.

If you had injectors not producing good spray patterns, or worn seats (spraying more or less fuel than others) this could unbalance and cause a one of the cylinders to run hotter than the others.

QUESTION - How big of a job was it to change them, and how much did the entire job cost?

I might do this on mine if its not to expensive.

John Mc

88 Dolphin 4 Auto

Thank you for your question.

Background info: My MH is 1987 22RE Auto, with approximately 104k miles on the odometer, I have had it for 2 years, and had put approximately 20k miles on the clock. The "overheating" problem has been with this MH since the day I got it.

My good friend who is also my mechanic charges me at a "special rate" that's why I have been able to do so many things with my MH. I don't think quoting what he charges me reflects true market cost. It took him less than half a day to do the job (I don't know exactly how long but I left the MH with him for half a day). All I know is that he needs to replace the intake plenum gasket also when he does the injectors.

Also: There's no noticeable difference in terms of fuel economy after the injectors change. Usually if I need to travel down to the USA, Interstate-5 is the normal route and I have traveled down the Vancouver-Portland route many many times so I know what the MH should perform at different slopes, long stretches ... etc.

[Cooling down the 22RE]

I know a few of you have been following this post and I have just discovered something.

Thinking of trying to increase my MH's performance I took the advice of my friend and mechanic to change the 4 fuel injectors. I did that after my Mexico trip. I didn't do anything else apart from changing the injectors (Apart from the fact I need also to change the intake plenum gasket for the injectors change). I used Pacer brand fuel injectors.

I just had a 600+ miles trip to Portland, Oregon this past Easter Weekend, the first time I use my MH after Christmas.

Acceleration has been increased slightly and the top vehicle speed has been increased by a few more MPH as well. What surprises me is the coolant temp went down as well. Now even if I run the car up at 65+ mph range the needle would go up to 2/3 of the normal range, which really surprises me.

I do not yet know why changing the fuel injectors might affect coolant temperature. I cannot say for certain this will help those of you having similar problem with me. I can only report what I have seen. Good luck.

[Cooling down the 22RE]

Thanks for everybody's response and reply. I haven't been active on this thread for sometime now because I am in the process of moving. During my Xmas - New Year holiday I drove my Dolphin all the way from Vancouver BC down to Mexico (Albeit I only went to Baja California: Mainly San Felipe and Ensenada. Again, temperature's on the high side when traveling around 60mph, need to add a little bit of coolant every morning, still see some coolant spills out when the temp is on the high side (like you have been traveling at around 60mph for a while and stops for gas, you don't see the coolant actually spilling out but the coolant in the expansion tank (reservoir) is at the very top and at the end of the expansion tank tube you see evidence of some coolant has spilled out. But other than that, everything is fine and there has been no other problem, and I made it home safely.

I include a couple pictures here, the coastline of San Felipe and the coastline of the "blow hole" near Ensenada.

[Cooling down the 22RE]

Can you tell me where you found a three row radiator for the Toyota pickup?

I use CSF brand radiator part number 2314. This is the link to their spec sheet.

[Fibreglass Has A Crack]

Nov 2010 Update:

The RV Goop held up. Cab area is still dry, but new problem comes in.

There's water leak when heavy rain. First A/C unit drips water, then it moves up to one of the cross sectin of the ceiling, and then the front cab. Had a horrible time driving the RV in the middle of a trip back home (When the RV is moving the leak seems much less). I think my roof needs a complete re-seal for sure. Could I ask for some help here:

Does anyone living in the Greater Vancouver area in BC knows someone/some company who can do a good work and charges reasonably? Much appreciated for your help.

[Fuel types]

I live in Vancouver BC Canada. Last time I drove to Montana I was surprised to find out the regular gasoline there only has a 85.5 octane rating (where mostly in the west coast regular gas rates 87). Would that be enough for our Toyota MH?

[HOW TO REMOVE VALVE COVER]

Hi there,

Page 21 of this PDF describes the actual valve clearance adjustment procedures. Good Luck.

[22RE cranks but wouldn't start]

I am going to predict that it will happen again someday. My gut feeling is pointing at that cold start injector as the culprit. Maybe it stuck open and caused the flooding. I say this because it seems that all 4 cyl's were flooded and its the only way it could flood like that.

It is possible that the ecu did have a brain fart for a brief period and allowed the cyl injectors to flood somehow, such as no spark etc.

Could also be an intermittent with the coil, ecu or other component, a really cold environment causes intermittent connections or broken coil wires to show their ugly heads. Anyhow just some thoughts to ponder.

You are probably right. Thanks for your input. If I encounter this problem someday I would keep this in mind. But for now I'll just have to live with it before changing every part.

[Fibreglass Has A Crack]

3m 5200 IS NOT PERMANENT. They now sell a release for it. And if applied correctly WILL NOT LEAK. Guaranteed! I am all for fixing problem but if there aint, dont fix it. maybe something from the road hit cab and made crack.

Thanks again for your reply.

OK. Here's what I am gonna do, a little experiment. For the time being I will just put Clear RV Goop (I happened to have some bought a a WalMart before) to the crack and see what happens to it at the next trip.

If inside the cab is still dry I'll probably proceed with the 5200 fix. If not, I will get professional help.

In a way, I am far more lucky than some people. For that I am grateful. And I thank you guys for all your help.

[Fibreglass Has A Crack]

Try West Marine. Located at 1601 2nd Ave. W., Vancouver. Their phone # is 604-730-4093.

Thanks for your suggestions I will call them up if I need the Sealant.

I hear you about opening up pandora's box, but I'd strongly recommend you hesitate on the 5200 before you sort out what's going on underneath the split in the metal. If you're not comfortable taking off the trim and getting inside to see what's going on, it would be well worth your while to find a good shop locally. It might cost a few bucks to get it right, but it'll be a lot less than a continuing leak through a pile of sealant you can't get off the skin. Without a good solid mechanical fit, even the toughest most flexible sealants will let water in.

Thanks for your reply I am gonna seriously think about it to be honest I am new to the RV scene (only started May last year). I had a good mechanic friend and he does mechanical work for me and gave me good price. He was the one who suggested that I get a Toyota RV for it's reliability. He does good mechanical work but he couldn't help me on the body side. As such since last year I have enjoyed over 12,000 miles of travel. Odd thing is I don't feel the slightest moisture in the cab over structure but I guess I will see how things go. I don't think I will apply the 5200 just yet.

I have no idea on this ... but how much do you think it will cost for such a job?

[Fibreglass Has A Crack]

Anyone from the Greater Vancouver area in Canada who knows where I can buy some of that 3M 5200 sealant? Looks like I couldn't find it anywhere.

Thanks.

[Fibreglass Has A Crack]

I have to agree, you have something else going on there. Most likely a leak has caused some structural damage and things are starting to come apart. Sorry to be so blunt about it but fixing the problem is a better option that patching it over. It will continue to come apart. I would pull off the moulding along that edge and have a look see inside. Who knows maybe you will be lucky and everything is just loose. Removing the edge trim will allow you to replace the butyl tape for a proper seal no matter what you find. Its possible that if there is some damage that its not bad enough to worry about if you can get the screws to hold and get it sealed.

Thanks for your post, I am just contemplating my next move now as I am not good at DIY at all and I just worried that I open the Pandora's Box once I take things off.

[Fibreglass Has A Crack]

Another thing to consider is why the break occurred in the first place. Perhaps the interior framing wood is wet and swelled up, causing the crack to appear. Judging by all the exterior caulk showing on the seam, it looks like a troublesome leak has been there for a while.

The suggestion to use 5200 is okay, but remember, 5200 is a PERMANENT fix in that the stuff is very difficult to remove as is anything that its attached to.

Is it wet at all in the inside near that area? Try pulling up all the bedding in the cabover area and poke around with your hand looking and feeling for wet or soft wood. If you find any, some surgery is probably your only real hope.

Also, it looks like your siding is fiberglas, but the front, where the tear is, looks like metal. Is this true?

John

Thanks for your post. Yes, I just checked today the front is metal and the siding is fiberglass. I followed your instructions and pulled up all the bedding and poke around to see if anything wet, It's all dry and solid.

[Fibreglass Has A Crack]

Your pict is oversized and hard to view you might try resize image.Its not an easy fix because the crack is at a joint of 2 panels. You could remove corner molding and patch area with some polester resin and fiberglass cloth. Then reinstall molding. But those moldings are somewhat delicate due to the curve just try not to bend molding if you remove. Another option is remove as much of the old sealant around corner molding as you can. Clean area with acetone then apply 3M 5200 {available at Depot and boating supply,comes in caulking tube $10-15} to cracked area. 5200 is a marine product, waterproof,"thru the hull fittings" and will make watertight. Takes 5 days to cure. Good luck

Thanks for your suggestion. I will update you with my progress.

[fan belts]

If you add a light you can make it work, the Toyota uses a relay and is not compatiable with the GM alt. One side of your added light will need +12v via the key the other side to terminal 1 on the alt. Terminal 2 either to the big terminal on the alt or to some thing that has 12v power. Usually the GM alt. with a voltage gauge had a resistor on the #1 terminal and the other side to 12+ if that's the case remove the resistor and plug in the light wire.

Thanks Maineah I am not very mechanically inclined but next time I put the car into the mechanic shop I will let my mechanic aware of this and see if he could do anything about it!

[Fibreglass Has A Crack]

Any help will be much appreciated, thanks!

[22RE cranks but wouldn't start]

Mechanic checked the fuel pressure was ok, really didn't know why but after that I took the MH for a 700 mile trip (I got the mechanic did the alternator conversion for me while I have the MH at his shop) no problem whatsoever and made it back safely.

[fan belts]

Note that they say you will lose your charge light, also if you have slipping belts now it maybe worse with a bigger alternator same belt set up. You are only gaining 30 amps is it worth it? I charge 3 batteries with the stock alternator at 60 amps. I added a 120 amp battery in a small storage compartment room definitely is at a premium what ever you do it needs to be vented with fresh air and it's best outside of the living area. You can parallel the batteries with some heavy cables. Are you using an inverter or some thing that uses a lot of power?

Update: I did do the conversion while I had the RV in the mechanic shop. It was good timing too because apparent the alternator bracket was cracked. Output is good, the only downside is that both the brake and charge warning light came on (albeit it was a weak light of both), when I pull the hand brake the brake warning light grows brighter.

NOTE: After the conversion I did a 700 mile trip. Headlights are brighter I noticed. No noticeable difference in fuel consumption.

[22RE cranks but wouldn't start]

Follow up: Engine was just flooded. Mechanic took the plugs out, disabled all injectors, put a gas analyzer at the exhaust and do a crank-and stop procedure with a blow gun (compress air blowing into the cylinder from spark plug chamber), after the HC reading drops to very minimal he puts a few drops of oil in each cylinder, reactivate the injectors and it cranked right up.