masinoshane
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Posts posted by masinoshane
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3 hours ago, linda s said:
I have the Toyota extenders the same as you. Mine have never leaked. Easy to get off. You take the outside wheel off and unscrew them from the inside wheel, but I already told you this.
So are your tires flat in a day? A week? Did you consider the possibility it's the tire valve leaking.
Linda S
when you say they dont fit And I've read that the hole is smaller.
Is the actual diameter outside dimension? Of the metal valve stem coming out of the rim actually smaller than the typical ones.if so would you happen to have the specs also the spring on the extenders confuses me i removed the snap washer and plaastic gromit then i figured the spring would come though the hole but no is there a seperation right there
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I have one of those kits I was trying to. The valve cores were different. Then the ones that they sell at the auto parts store. Also, do you know how the factory valve extenders come off of there? Has a retaining Snap washer. And plastic Peace once removed that Spring still won't come through that hole.
I don't know if it separates into 2 pieces right there
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2 hours ago, fred heath said:
Go to Walmart. Buy a”Slime” tire repair kit. Less than $10.00
They have new valve inserts, a multi-tool to remove them, even a small thread tap if needed. Easy fix for a common problem.
Different than the ones that they sell at the auto parts store.
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12 hours ago, IdahoDoug said:
Masino,
If you want to be sure, post a picture of your rear wheels with no hubcap on (if you have hubcaps..). There were some crossover years, and I'm not good enough to know what they were, but a photo will confirm if you have a full floater rear dually.
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It depends, I know where its leaking from its the valve core. Not popping back out Until you stick a little screwdriver in there and help it back out.
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8 hours ago, linda s said:
Like I said. I tried the flexible extenders and none of them fit. I don't have any answers for you. An extended handle air chuck is the only thing I can think of but not going to be much good at a gas station.
So you have no extenders on your tires, I'm just wondering. Ever taken the The valve cores out and are they replaceable
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On 8/15/2018 at 7:13 PM, linda s said:
If you find something that fits please show me pics. I went nuts trying to make something work.
Linda S
Hi Linda what are my options for fixing Leakey stock valve extenders is removing them completely an option It looks like I can get to the valve stem with them gone
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On 5/5/2021 at 9:32 PM, thewanderlustking said:
Wow don't go back to that tire store, the reality likely is they didn't want to jack the truck up (I know this as it is probably the crap I would have said especially if close to the end of the day...)
So valve stems are just valve stems... For the most part. Yes, there are lots of different styles but any REAL tire shop will have one that will work. Any truck shop will also have the more specialized long ones like the xtra seal ones. You can't find them in stock, because you are not a jobber. The specialized ones aren't the kind of thing you find sitting in a car parts store. But straight screw in ones, are. Better yet, they are sitting on the shelf at that OTHER tire shop.
My point is there, are only two stem sizes commonly used. For our sake, only one. (The other isn't found in the automotive sector.) They could have walked back to their shelf and pulled seals off a normal screw in stem, replaced your cores, and had you set. (Assuming you already had the long bent stems though.)
What I would recommend is even simpler. Use short screw in stems. Get some extenders. Amazon sells a set for $15. Now unless you are Houdini or some other odd freak like that, you will have to take the wheels off to get the extenders on, but they will be off to put the stems in. You feed the extenders out through the wheels and bam there you have an easy fill point. Or the start of a crazy contraption like mine!
This is my take on a dually equalizer setup. I made it myself as I wanted to use a 4 sensor TPMS kit I had on hand. The big grey cap, is a sensor. It starts with short screw in stems with valve cores. Then the extenders have valve cores. If I did have a bad leak or a blow out, I can temporarily disable the equalizer simply by unscrewing it.
I don't recommend trying to duplicate that equalizer part, stop at the extenders. Unless you are brilliant with a torch and brazing. I am, and that still wasn't an easy thing to make!
EDIT: Yes, I probably should have a support bar bolted to the center axle.... The extender kits do come with parts for that too.
Do you know how to remove the stock stem extenders mine leak Just removing them and making a custom
Filler wond
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On 6/25/2023 at 9:12 PM, IdahoDoug said:
Wow, yeah - looks like I am wrong here as pointed out. When I got the Sunrader, i looked at how to service bearings n watched a couple 6 lug Toyota vids. They show the drum just coming off the lug studs. But those are not full floater style. Wow what a pain to do brakes!
We just got back from 3 days camping in N central WA state near Republic, and I re watched the vids.
Thanks for the correction!
I really wish Idaho Doug was right,as i had a sudden rush of self-confidence after reading his post.
But now not so much. dose anyone have a ballpark cost on this full service
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6 hours ago, extech said:
ok. the gauge has 3 wires. one is power. check each wire with key on. one will show 0 one should be battery v, the other may be less. disconnect either of the last 2. one of them will be battery v. reconnect and connect the other wire to ground. the gauge should go to it's upper limit. thats the wire going to the sender on the transmission
if you connect your test light clamp lead to battery v when you probe the ground connection it will light if the wire is actually grounded.
i know clear as mud
Yeah crystal clear as Mudd I read it five times and can't figure out what exactly you are explaining
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4 hours ago, extech said:
the gauge installer connected the light incorrectly. doesn't affect gauge operation
If I just reversed the 2 light wires will that correct the dimmer function
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4 hours ago, linda s said:
Been a long time since I had to deal with these and I can't look at the install without removing my outside rear tire.
Your tire must already be off. Show me to jog my memory. Spring either pushes down or lets it lift up to attach to wheel rim. Don't remember which way.
Linda S
No my tire Is still on there unfortunately. It's the side That had the only use tire on it. and when the guy Change that he had brought to my attention that the Lug nuts might not go back on. Weii he got them all to go back on by hand I have since ordered left handed lug nuts but i'm afraid to take that tire off Until I have the money to replace the studs and the bearings and all that and the brakes.
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47 minutes ago, extech said:
looks like factory dimmer is on the ground side. turning the dimmer knob increases the resistance to ground- dimmer lights.
?
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1 hour ago, extech said:
are you more concerned with the gauge or the light
The gauge
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1 hour ago, extech said:
could easily be a broken spring on the rear brakes, or master cylinder going bad
I had all brand new tires except for the one on the inside of the driver's side and the the guy Who replaced the tire? brought it to my attention. That they might not go back on due to overtooking I had. Ordered some new lug nuts for that side that are left handed. Does? Checking the brakes in the back require l thisassembling the wheel bearings and all that.
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Just now, extech said:
do you have a test light or multimeter
Yea I've traced the wires down. He's got the light tied into the dimmer knob. But it works in reverse when you turn the dimmer down. The oil gauge gets brighter when the rest of the - lights get dim and then hes got another wire to a ground screw behind the dash Another wire hes pulling from a bundle Where the fuse for the radio comes out of. And severed wire coming from. I think the oil Pan sensor. It makes sense that they were connected together at 1 time
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5 minutes ago, masinoshane said:
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6 minutes ago, masinoshane said:
My phone froze I'll send some pics
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27 minutes ago, extech said:
do you need help with picture uploading?
My phone froze I'll send some pics
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4 minutes ago, linda s said:
OK so bad news. From the diagram you are showing that is a factory Toyota valve extension. On the inside wheel only right. Not made for many years and I've never seen anything similar. My Sunrader has the same original extensions.
Linda S
I'm not understanding how the Spring comes out. I pulled the little washer off the front side that snaps in and then a plastic. Please step fixed inside that retainer ring but the Spring will come through there once it's out. I'm not concerned with keeping it all original just finding something that works
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12 minutes ago, extech said:
could easily be a broken spring on the rear brakes, or master cylinder going bad
We only have 24000 miles on it You think it could be as sticky caliper pins in the front brakes?
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3 minutes ago, masinoshane said:
The gauge has four threaded red rods coming out the back one has an S i think i can make out GRND on an other Some hieroglyphic symbol and then no symbol on the last one.
Also would the sensor be located on the side of the transmission oil Pan?
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On 6/11/2023 at 4:25 PM, REALLYRURAL said:
Sounds like a ground issue.
Broken or bad grounds can cause some funky things to happen.
Might not solve your problem but checking all the grounds on a regular basis. Both ac and dc can prevent a bunch of problems
The gauge has four threaded red rods coming out the back one has an S i think i can make out GRND on an other Some hieroglyphic symbol and then no symbol on the last one.
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On 6/11/2023 at 4:25 PM, REALLYRURAL said:
Sounds like a ground issue.
Broken or bad grounds can cause some funky things to happen.
Might not solve your problem but checking all the grounds on a regular basis. Both ac and dc can prevent a bunch of problems
Where are all the grounds located if I found them all
Discontinued valve stem extensions help.
in Engines - Transmissions - Drive Train - Suspension - Chassis - Steering - Exhaust - Tires - Etc.
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