Skydancer2992
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Posts posted by Skydancer2992
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JDE,
I enjoy reading your posts and regretted when they disappeared off the Yahoo site.
I've picked up quite a bit of useful knowledge as well as interesting trivia from your posts on both sites.
Please continue to post on the toyotamotorhome site.
Thanks,
Marc
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What worked for me was to disconnect the upper radiator hose from the radiator and then hold the open end up vertically while pouring more coolant directly into the block.
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Today I installed Bilstein shocks on the front axle. The passenger side shock was an old Toyota one that was completely gone. No resistance. The nut on top of the shock was welded and would not budge. A multi-tool cut the nut in half and then it backed off fairly easily. The driver side shock was still OK, but why change only one shock?
The Toyota wheel jack is handy for convincing the new shocks to retract in order to insert and tighten the two bolts that hold the base of the shock in place.
A 17 mm ratcheting wrench is handy for tightening the top nut down. Bilstein put a cavity for a hex key in the top of the shock. With a 1/4 inch hex, the rod does not turn while tightening.
Next, I'm going to order the rear Bilstein shocks, most likely from Amazon, $75 a piece, free shipping.
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You need a volt meter to check the potential between the hot wire to ground, neutral to ground, and hot to neutral. (Neutral is wide blade/hole and hot is the narrow blade/hole in a correctly wired outlet).
Correct readings should be approx 120, 0, 120.
If you get 120, 120, 0, then you have a short between neutral and hot somewhere. If so, start isolating. Open all breakers. Test each circuit by opening a breaker and testing the corresponding circuit.
Isolate your power cords/extension cords and do a resistance check with the ohm meter. Should be infinite resistance between the conductors.
Normally, your home circuit breaker should have opened. If the short is a small amperage, then the home breaker may not have opened. Any short to ground should have activated the GCFI outlet. The GCFI will need to be reset to restore power to the outlet.
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None of the bolts snapped on me nor did they seem likely to do so. The head is aluminum and the threads in the bolt holes are more likely to strip. I was about to use a helicoil kit but I found the threads go much deeper than the stripped area.
About half the studs backed out as they were melded to the nuts. Concerned at first, I found this to be blessing in disguise as the removal of the manifold from the downpipe and crossover pipe was much easier.
Your job is likely to be easier than mine because the downpipe was a pain to gain access.
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Well, I'm not a mechanic (just an electrical engineer and retired Navy officer) and have never done a manifold job before this one but I was able to get through it with satisfactory results.
Some things that may have helped were to start spraying penetrating oil on all the nuts and studs for a couple of days, work an hour or two every day (to avoid frustration and keep the job fun), dry fit the parts (the new heat shield/gasket has to be cut and folded on one end to clear the dip stick - for the driver side version), have plenty of light.
My mistake was not to order studs and nuts in advance, thinking that Toyota dealers would have them in stock. They do have a nice computer system that shows all the states where the other dealers do not have the parts in stock.
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The studs on the manifold go through the gasket. The manifold has to come out to get the gasket out.
There are six studs on the manifold/gasket and three on the crossover pipe. The three nuts on the driver side of the crossover pipe will need to be loosened to allow the pipe to move off the end of the passenger side manifold.
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I replaced my driver side gasket last December. Long and cumbersome job but nothing to be intimidated by.
There are some pictures of the job on the yahoo site under Skydancer's Warrior folder.
The key to doing the replacement is to jack up the vehicle by the frame and remove the wheel. One third of the work is done through the fender wall gap to access the bottom row of studs. I used really long socket extensions. Another third is underneath for the down pipe (not necessary for the passenger side). The remaining third is working above through the open hood.
For the passenger side, you will have to disconnect the crossover pipe. Pull the carbon cannister out. Use self-ratcheting wrenches, three nuts.
I put in a new manifold because Uhaul on ebay had them cheaply priced, $55. The new one looked so pretty in comparison to the old one.
I bought a pair of exhaust gaskets for $40 from an online store.
Several of my studs were melded to the nut but the entire stud came out. The studs coming out is a blessing because it makes removal and installation much easier.
Toyota dealerships are unlikely to stock these studs and I had to special order them. (I tried four different dealerships and found a couple in stock). Order the crossover pipe gasket as well. The studs from Autozone do not look nearly as well-made as the Toyota. Toyota studs are about $1 a piece and the nuts were $.60.
The block thread is easy to strip out. Don't tighten too tightly or better yet, use a torque wrench. Fortunately, the thread goes deep into the block and some of the studs are long enough to go deeper.
The heat shield has smaller studs and you may need to order a few as well. These seem to be the same studs as the center wheel studs.
Lots of light helps. I put a shoplight over the area I worked as most of the time, it was during the evening in winter.
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Just received a Hankook RA08 at Walmart ($91). Walmart mounted it no charge but could not balance it. Date code was mid 2014.
Another of my Goodyear's blew out on the way up to Chicago from Memphis. The local tire shop near Great Lakes Navy base, Waukegan Tire was able to locate a Hankook RA 08 and mount it the same day ($137 total for mounting, balancing, and tax).
Despite looking brand new, three of five Goodyears have now had the tread separate from the air chamber.
I still have four Continental Vanco's, which I will put on the rear axle.
The Hankook's will go up front.
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According to http://www.toyotapartszone.com/ and my VIN number (1991 Warrior, 90 chassis), the second number - 68 fits but not the first.
Price $2.64 each.
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My experience is that during a turn, the weight aft of the rear wheels tends to make the Toyota want to continue turning.
She is a little more resistant to resuming a straight run.
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Look for another set of fuses next to your power converter.
May also be some fuses installed inline on your battery cables.
A multimeter will help you trace whether power is running from point to point.
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Two of my amber marker lights were Harbor Freight LED lights but they both quit working.
The remaining three were smaller LED lamps off of ebay and they are working still.
For the rear marker lamps, I installed Ebay Uhaul surplus lamps, two halogen bulbs per fixture.
I tried LED's on the interior lights but they were a bluish, resembling old fluorescent bulbs.
I went back to the incandescents. My porch light is still LED, a bulb from China - about a quarter of the LED elements have failed.
Later, I bought all new interior fixtures from an Ebay place in Elkhart Indiana. These came with halogen bulbs.
Camping stores seem to be carrying LED's with a more friendly spectrum.
For the back running lights, some of my wires are in reverse and the LED bulbs will not function with the wrong polarity.
The truck stops like Pilot now carry marker LED lights for $3 that look professional grade. I will consider these for future reference.
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My Warrior had water damage in the shape of a U on the floor of the bunk area over the cab. I pealed the wood down to almost the foam. Then cut fiberglass cloth to fit over the affected area and then over about four inches of the remaining "good wood". Poured about a quart of mixed epoxy resin over the surface. The fiberglass cloth swelled up with the resin. The remaining dry rot wood melded well inside the resin.
Next, a U - shaped piece of carpet covers the area around the cab opening everything looks like new.
For extra integrity, I placed a couple of 2' X 5' plywood boards over the bunk area. Folding over the futon mattress, I can slide one board forward to open up the cab "ceiling" but usually I never do.
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The V6 has more torque so the engine cruises in the lower RPM range, especially in overdrive.
The transmission with the later models is more robust.
No wrong axle issues with the V6.
When speed is needed, the V6 will go 70 mph but gas mileage drops considerably, down to 10-12 mpg, depending on prevailing wind direction.
Mine has over 230K miles and runs like a top.
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Hankook R8 is $91 delivered to the nearest Walmart; includes free mounting.
Just ordered one to replace one of my old Goodyears.
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My Warrior typically gets 15 mpg at 55 mph. Have also seen 18 mpg at 75 mph but that was a windy day and the wind was a tailwind. With a strong headwind, 12 mpg at 55 mph. I've also seen 10 mpg at 75.
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Yes, Uhaul used these chassis for their smallest moving trucks. Some have even converted the moving box into a camper.
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My 91 WInnie Warrior already had a chain winch just forward of the gray water tank. I bought a spare rim/tire from a local Uhaul contractor and cranked it up using the Toyota jack tools in the camper. I've needed the spare three times so far due to tires starting to shred, never losing air, just rubber.
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When I bought my Warrior, the rotor was worn down and the distributor cap showed burns where arcing was occurring. Pop the distributor cap and take a quick look.
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I don't know if it has the right rear axle.
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It's calling for JDemaris. Another one for the fleet.
However, I know some cats that would like to play on those diagonal poles.
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I have a 91 Warrior which also had been fairly inactive for the last couple of years before I purchased it.
Initially, I changed the engine oil, differential oil, air filter, spark plugs, distributor cap and rotor.
The transmission oil was milky so I drained and replaced the fluid. Drove it and replaced it again. After the next trip, I replaced the oil again and it has remained clear.
The 3.0 V6 is a non-interference engine - the valves will not contact the pistons if the timing belt breaks. Uhaul typically changed the water pump and timing belt as part of their 90,000 mile check. Some Uhauls may still have parts for these engines/chassis. The Uhaul site on ebay sells a number of parts relatively cheap.
A useful site for learning about Toyota engines/transmissions/system basics is: http://www.autoshop101.com/
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I had a tire start to lose its outer rubber such that a foot long flap of rubber was slapping the fender well. A busy highway was not the place to change the tire. There was a rest stop a mile down the road so I limped the camper along at about 3 mph. Since the temperature was about 100 F, having a source of shade and water was welcome.
The three tires that failed on me never lost air pressure. They were all older, 7 - 9 years. One Yokohama and two Goodyear.
Rear Brake Adjustment Question - How Much?
in Engines - Transmissions - Drive Train - Suspension - Chassis - Steering - Exhaust - Tires - Etc.
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Sailfritz, you can lose braking on a downhill even if your brakes are in brand new condition. If the brakes are used so much that they overheat, the brake fluid begins to bubble and that causes the loss of incompressibility (and resulting loss of braking).
Your drums and rotors do not need to be replaced unless they are out of spec or warped. The way they get out of spec is usually by resurfacing them too many times at brake shops.
Resurfacing has usually caused more problems for me than not resurfacing due to the skills of the technician or the calibration of the machine.
I change my brake pads when the material becomes too thin. I almost never have to change brake shoes.
Use a flash light to check brake pads, usually when rotating tires or other maintenance (shocks, etc.). Shoes are a bit harder but follow the factory shop manual.