Skydancer2992
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Posts posted by Skydancer2992
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I had a jack stand under the frame so that the axle was hanging down, supported by the springs. Then I used the Toyota bottle jack under the axle to reduce tension.
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A diesel engine and five speed transmission. Price is reasonable but the delivery is probably $$$$.
http://suchen.mobile.de/wohnwagen-inserat/vw-taro-wohnmobil-servo-top-49-tkm-niefern/209522947.html
Google translation:
The mobile home is located , despite his age , in a great condition . There stand the previous owner only in the garage and was only once a year , used for a few days . Therefore, the newness desFahrzeugs has been preserved . The engine and transmission are also in perfect order ! If you have further questions, I am happy to assist you by phone .
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Indiana would be my choice.
Ideas:
Some of the RV manufacturers give factory tours:
http://rv-roadtrips.thefuntimesguide.com/2012/03/rv_factory_tours.php
Big RV Show in Elkhart, IA in August: http://rvshows.org/MidwestRVSuperShow.aspx
I met Bob and Cheryl at a past gathering - Great folks - Actually, everyone at Toyota rallies have been good people.
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www.rockauto.com has the power steering box repair kits, about $30. Probably has the brake parts as well.
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Hardware stores sell a brass double nipple that will allow you to splice two lengths of hose together.
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My 96 Toyota 4Runner has both driver and passenger side airbags.
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Yes, you can just cut it and plug it.
Six years ago, the piece between the return tank nipple and T for the generator began leaking on my 91 Warrior- looked like a rodent had nibbled on it. I drove into Autozone, climbed under the camper and pulled out that piece. Autozone was out of stock in that fuel line. They had fuel injection hose that was stronger (and more expensive). Size was either 5/16 or 1/4.
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I already had the camper jacked up while doing my Prothane bushings on the springs. The airbags were cut in half using tinsnips. The leaf springs were already drooping down to give me clearance to install the coil springs. Inserted the old airbag halfs on either side of the coil spring and the job was complete. About five minutes work per side.
I used these:
http://www.amazon.com/Superior-12-1500-Design-Helper-Capacity/dp/B00029K1XK
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As a temporary measure, I installed coil springs over my useless airbags. Eventually, I plan to go back to airbags. The springs were $25 from Amazon and have worked OK.
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I have a 91 Warrior (90 Toyota Chassis). My bushings were all the same size but the set recommended by Prothane web site came with two larger bushings. I called Prothane and they immediately sent two more of the smaller bushings, no charge, to complete my job. I believe the set recommended by Kgibson4 will work for the newer Toyhomes as well. If not, Prothane will stand behind their product.
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Progressive charges me about $400 per year for agreed value of $8000, plus a valuables rider on the contents.
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I ordered a Hankook through Walmart's web site last Fall. After it arrived, Walmart (Millington, TN) mounted it at no charge but could not balance it. An adapter is needed for the wider center and many tire places don't have it.
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I built a fuselage for a kitplane out of half inch honeycomb aluminum, a BD-17. I'm buying some scraps out of a place in St. Louis, about $50 for a 2' X 4' panel. Also considering using some material to reinforce the roof around the AC unit.
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Nice job. I'm considering the use of honeycomb aluminum panels for a future rebuild project. Normally used for aircraft floors, the stuff is very light.
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"Overweight and speed are the greatest RV hazards." She is right. I'm bad about the speed part as my time is limited. Retirement looks so good.
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Low voltage has been the main issue I've encountered in RV campgrounds, usually during hot or cold weather and many occupants.
The AC/heat will draw increased current and the breaker will trip.
Since I started using an autoformer, no problems.
http://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/rv-power-cords/30-amp-autoformer.htm
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BTW, Uhaul on Ebay has a surplus EGR valve and they usually get it to your door in a week.
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If the valve is stuck closed then the only problem is you won't pass the NOx test for emissions. If the valve is stuck open, then your engine will run badly.
Like JD says, the valve and all its hoses can be removed and a plate bolted over the opening. The engine will have more power and get better gas mileage because it will run slightly hotter and have a better thermodynamic cycle. The negative side is that it will produce more NOx gases.
On the yotatech site, there are plenty of posts on how to remove the EGR system. However, if you live in an EPA air attainment area or testing state, you won't pass an emissions test.
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The EGR valve has an air filter that needs to be cleaned periodically. The filter is underneath the cap on top of the valve. Use compressed air to clean it.
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Toyota mechanics would tell me that the silicate issue was serious and to make sure silicate coolant was never used.
"Types of coolant: Red, pink or green? The short answer: The simplest most straight forward recommendation we can make is to use Toyota's red, Long Life Coolant where specified, and their pink Super Long Life Coolant where specified. On vehicles older than 1998, Toyota's recommendations are very general. We have come to believe that the Toyota Long Life Coolant is preferable for these vehicles as well in order to reduce clogged radiators.
Types of coolant: Red, pink or green? The longer answer: Regarding generic green coolant versus Toyota's red coolant in the older Toyotas (see section on older Toyotas through 1998 for broader discussion) although I'm willing to use either as per customer preferences, I have come to have a definite preference for Toyota's Long Life red coolant. It was designed with full engineering knowledge of the various materials (seals and alloyed metals) it needs to be compatible with. It was also deliberately designed with zero silicates. While the silicates in other coolants provide excellent corrosion protection, over the long haul they tend to precipitate out and contribute to restricting coolant passages. This can eventually result in overheating and/or having to replace the radiator. The additional cost of Toyota's coolant is minimal if you consider that the cost is amortized over a two to three year period and that the superior coolant may save having to replace your radiator."
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My kit was the same. I replaced the front sway bar bushings because the rear looked OK.
The Bilstein shocks came with their own bushings.
My rear spring bushings were completely worn through, metal on metal contact. However, my motorhome had over 200K miles when I replaced the bushings.
All three of the rear spring bushings were identical on my rig. The fat ones with the steel inserts were not used. The kit came with four sets of the smaller bushings. I used three of them and called Prothane. They sent me two more sets of the smaller bushings. No charge, no shipping cost, not even proof of purchase - just my word.
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I've bought materials from an RV repair shop, mainly the aluminum extrusion for the corner edges. The repair guys loved to talk about how to repair and had great prices for the parts, considering that shipping charges were nada.
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Your parts are enough to do one sway bar. The motorhome has two, front and rear.
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Well I can buy non ethanol in Maine it's $5.59 a gallon pretty much any airport has it.
Aviation gas is heavily leaded and will ruin catalytic converters. Farmer's Co-ops are a good place to find non-ethanol gas, just make sure you buy it from the taxed pump.
Spring And Shackle Bushings
in Engines - Transmissions - Drive Train - Suspension - Chassis - Steering - Exhaust - Tires - Etc.
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Uncanny coincidence.