Jump to content

elderthewelder

Toyota Advanced Member
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    42

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Posts posted by elderthewelder

    4 speed to 5 speed transmission swap

    in Engines - Transmissions - Drive Train - Suspension - Chassis - Steering - Exhaust - Tires - Etc.

    Posted

    source any one of the R series 5 speeds and be done with it- they are designed for more abuse/horsepower than your RV will dish out ever. its the choice of anyone building Toyotas to compete with or expidition use, it is used behind diesels in overseas Toyota Landcruisers which weigh about what an RV does

    so here is a R151F bellhousing from a '87 turbo 4x4. would it work in a 2wd application with the 22re 4cyl? So with this bellhousing I need to look for the R150 or R151 2wd transmission correct? what other issues might I encounter? drive shaft length, stock cross member not fitting, shifter location?

    http://seattle.craig...2984945209.html

    4 speed to 5 speed transmission swap

    in Engines - Transmissions - Drive Train - Suspension - Chassis - Steering - Exhaust - Tires - Etc.

    Posted

    I know of a couple of w56 2wd transmissions for sale near me, was thinkng about swapping out my w46 for a w56, another toyota board a read praises the w56. and it is hard to find a 2wd version

    now having second thoughts about it. But I really would like a 5th gear and a transmisson that will swap out easy with a 22re . My rear diff is a 3.90

    Brakes

    in Engines - Transmissions - Drive Train - Suspension - Chassis - Steering - Exhaust - Tires - Etc.

    Posted

    which part are you looking for ? pads? the dealer OEM is the way to go and worth every penny over aftermarket. cant get good dealer pricing? call Crusier Dan @ American Toyota in Albuquerque new mexico. tell him you want internet pricing

    Looking for shoes, but where ever I look online list dfferant sizes and mostly for regular single wheel toyota's, so I am not exactly sure what I need

    Tachometer

    in General Discussion

    Posted

    In addition to what other folks presented, I also installed a tach. and a couple of extra gauges as well. I like doing this kind of stuff, but don't feel it is a high priority. I have in place; water temp. gauge (kept stock as well), oil pressure (retained stock warning light) and added a vacuum gauge. The aftermarket water temp. gauge presented the biggest challenge as I wanted to retain the stock read-out as well. The vacuum unit is a bit odd, but provides 'lots' of information; indicates when your using 'lots' of throttle (gas), gives you information on timming and valve condition, and as well will lets you know (rather slowly) when you start gaining altitude as the vacuum readings will drop so much per (X) amount of altitude. The tach and vacuum seem to reinforce each other, that is to say, high rpm's (sudden) will likely cause low vacuum and higher fuel consumption. Then again, with the small engine (4cyl) most likely, we (I) will see high rpm's and low vacuum pretty often. Take care, Gerry

    100_1109.jpg

    100_1108.jpg

    I like that tach, can you give me more info on it, who makes it whre did you buy

    Thanks

    Rear leaf assist springs

    in Engines - Transmissions - Drive Train - Suspension - Chassis - Steering - Exhaust - Tires - Etc.

    Posted

    Like most of our units my leaf springs have 20 years of hauling around the Winnebago box, and they now sag. I have air bags, but mine do not really give much lift. Board members have posted various repair methods. For me, I definitely need to lift 3 to 4inches. Just a quick synopsis reveals - One member used the $40.00 long leaf, while another said it was too weak. I just wonder how much lift these provided?

    Someone else said use the Hellwig system which is supposed to be good for 1500 lbs, and is in the $150 range? Will these lift 3 - 4 inches, and are they the grand answer?

    Another board member used a spring shop, while this is obviously the best, it's also the most expensive. Along this line, does anyone have a Spring Shop recommendation for North West Washington state?

    Looking at the above postings folks seem to be all over the place. So what has worked best for lifting the back end 3 to 4 inches, and what was the price, and are you satisfied?

    Thanks,

    YVR (Ron)

    Not sure where in Washington State you are, but there is a spring shop in Everett, Wa that does good work. as you said this is the most expensive route to go. I took my 87 Toyota 1 ton flatbed dually in there for a quote. They wanted something like $600 to re-arch my springs and add 2 new ones on each side. I did not get the work done, but I know they do good work there. Here is the link

    http://www.aalbubrothers.com/index.html

    hid headlights

    in General Discussion

    Posted

    hi, i have a 86 toyota mini cruiser i just got 2 mounths ago brougt home and found out the engine was cooked so i purshaced a new remand engine for 1300.00 shipped to my door its a 22re engine but over all were very happy we go camping all the time now heres my qustin has anybody upgraded there stock headlights to hid lights like the ones used in newer cars/trucks the rv lights suck my fog lights are brighter than the headlights it must be something with toyotas my 4 runner is the same but if any body has any info on the conversion or what kit to buy it would help thanks

    who did you buy your motor from?

    Estimate for Brake and Exhaust Work

    in Engines - Transmissions - Drive Train - Suspension - Chassis - Steering - Exhaust - Tires - Etc.

    Posted · Edited by elderthewelder

    Rotors

    AutoZone

    Part number 31069

    $46

    http://www.autozone....2993_2708_23957

    Pads AutoZone

    Part number D303

    $25

    http://www.autozone....295_0_6961_7296

    Rotors and PAds also available here, pic shows 5 lug, just call to make sure they are 6 lug, they say they are for a 86 Toyota 1 Ton with Dual rear wheels (DWR)

    http://brakeperforma...rake-Rotors.php

    Rotors

    Rockauto

    p/n 0832195

    $34 CAD

    http://www.rockauto....e=1896&tab=cart

    Pads

    Rock Auto

    Take your pick

    http://www.rockauto....ramecatalog.php

    Make sure you double check to ensure will fit your rig

    these places say they ship to Canada

    any exhaust shop could weld on a new tailpipe, they should have the pipe on hand

    W46 4 speed tranny fill location

    in Engines - Transmissions - Drive Train - Suspension - Chassis - Steering - Exhaust - Tires - Etc.

    Posted · Edited by elderthewelder

    My Chilton book says the fill plug on 4 speeds is on the drivers side and 5 speeds on the passenger side, I am looking at my W46 4 speed and see what I believe to be the fill on the passenger side, I do see a bolt on drivers side but it has a wire and sensor hooked to it, so I think that is a back up light or something

    Anyone know for sure where the fill is on the 4 speed manual trans?

    Smaller exhaust pipe?

    in Engines - Transmissions - Drive Train - Suspension - Chassis - Steering - Exhaust - Tires - Etc.

    Posted

    If your in Calif, don't do it, you'll never pass another SMOG inspection.

    I don't believe there is an O2 sensor after the Cat Converter, so it would probably be OK as far as emissions controls are concerned.

    HOWEVER - If the Cat Converter is plugged, this is a sign of another problem, either running to rich, or silica in the exhaust (water - antifreeze).

    John Mc

    88 Dolphin 4 Auto

    do not live in Calif, just passed my last emission inspection for this vehicle, 02 sensor is BEFORE the cat, existing cat is not plugged and i have no check engine lights. just see no need for the cat when I re-do my exhaust

    Smaller exhaust pipe?

    in Engines - Transmissions - Drive Train - Suspension - Chassis - Steering - Exhaust - Tires - Etc.

    Posted

    If you have an 85-88 22RE, and you run a very efficient exhaust system that gets the heat out, you might have to change your original style 1 wire oxygen sensor to a 89 and later 4 wire heated oxygen sensor. I had a problem with mine that it ran rich at an idle and was failing emissions, since the oxygen sensor was not running hot enough to work correctly at an idle. It was fine on the highway. See the following link: http://toyotamotorho...h=1 .

    In addition, depending on your chassis, you might need a special adapter that routes the exhaust from the tri-y around your driver side torsion bar. I did. It did not come with the header. Doug Thorley sent it to me free of charge. You can see a partial picture of this in my member pictures.

    Note: Doug Thorley makes a few different tri-y headers for our motorhomes/trucks. They differ because of emission equipment. Hopefully the one you have will work for your application or can be made to work..

    If you do not have your Magnaflow muffler yet, you may want to consider getting either an Aero Exhaust Aero Turbine AT2525 (a little loud) or an AT2525XL (w/ built in resonator) while you can. They made a very efficient muffler, but unfortunately they went out of business. I am running the AT2525 on our Sunrader, and my wife's 2002 Malibu. You can find out more about the muffler here (Aero Exhaust's website had a lot of great information on it, until it was taken down): http://www.parleysdi...rmance-mufflers . From looking on the Internet tonight, there is at least one site that used to sell Aero mufflers, and are sold out.

    Since you have the 22RE, you might want to consider going to a 2.5" exhaust if you are replacing the entire system.

    Good luck!

    what are your thoughts on deleting the cat?

    japanese import in CA

    in General Discussion

    Posted

    Emissions, Crash worthiness, glass, turn signals, panel thickness (metal gauge), etc.

    When I lived in Japan, there were several vehicles that I would have loved to bring back, but was warned by the exporter that they would not pass US standards.

    (I had a Nissan Bluebird - this was a Nissan Maxima on steriods)

    JOhn Mc

    88 Dolphin 4 Auto

    I had a Bluebird also, as well as a couple Fairlady Z cars and a couple differant Nissan Skylines. I bought all of these cars out of a Japanese junk yard. They were all close to or just over 10 years old.

    when a vehicle reach's 10 years old in Japan they get much harder to pass "shaken" their vehicle inspection program, and more expensive to insure. I have literally seen Japanese people drive perfectly good cars to the junk yard and walk away

    The junk yards pull the motor and tranny's and send them to Australia, US, Canada, and scrap the rest of the car. If you can get to know the junk yard owner you may be able to buy the entire car pretty cheap, As a American service member i was not required to go through their "Shaken" just had to do a inspection at the base garage

    anyway i have heard the reason they do not export the entire car to here is because the emission requirements are ot as strict in Japan as in the US, do not know if that is true or not however, I do know i see quite a few right hand drive Japanese cars with British Columbia plates driving down I-5 towards Seattle, so that leads me to believe they import them into Canada alot

×
×
  • Create New...