wadingthroughlife
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Posts posted by wadingthroughlife
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On 5/18/2021 at 12:43 PM, linda s said:
We currently have no classifieds and I don't know if they are returning. Not my decision. I don't own this site I just work here
Linda S
Hey Linda,
I recall seeing where you mentioned being a member of a few groups for these trucks. Can you recommend any of those or any classifieds? I've seen a group on Facebook and one on Reddit, but I wasn't sure if there were more.
https://www.facebook.com/groups/338240363178332
https://www.reddit.com/r/toyotamotorhomes/
Thanks!
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Great build!! Tons of skill and expertise there..
- Which rear box is that?
- Is that a replacement AC? Does that only run on shore power or generator?
- Regarding the heavier flywheel, is that something the 4 cyl turbo might benefit from too?
Thanks!
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On 3/7/2022 at 10:50 AM, neilp said:
You may find this link useful: https://www.bestconverter.com/Magnetek-Upgrade_ep_26-1.html
Thanks!
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Thanks - Im just a little confused on which option to pick. I wouldn’t hate having a combined unit, it it seems breakers need to be added for that. I’m no skilled electrician.
I wasn’t sure if we should do the PD4135K, PD4635, PD4060K, or one you did, PD4645V.
Would this also eliminate the need to trickle charge the batteries?
Thanks so much,
Kyle
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On 3/1/2021 at 3:25 PM, Hoonah said:
Thanks everyone! It took a fair bit of time to swap out the converter, primarily because the hot and ground leads were not long enough and I had to extend them. Due to the gauge of the wires I needed to use special connectors that required a shrink wrap and my heat gun was broken. I got a new heat gun and (after contacting Progressive Dynamics - they promptly sent out the wire) I received the 4 pin wire. And, yes, that wire is only for the Charge Wizard.
How difficult was installing the converter? Did you do both the panel and converter? Considering an upgrade with the package deal. Thanks!
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Digging this one up from the depths. Would the three brackets supplied with the awning be sufficient, or is extra support worth an extra bracket or two (and the accompanying holes)?
Thanks!
Kyle
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30 minutes ago, WME said:
Grab your wallet and run, don't walk away. A proper fix is going to be $7000+
I wonder if there’s a member here that would be interested in doing or a shop that it could be shipped to for doing the conversion? Have a feeling the owner really wants out from under it and may steeply discount it since they’re apparently moving, maybe to get away from the truck. Definitely don’t want to drive it from Colorado to home with the current wheel and axle setup.
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We'd considered $50k but no longer.
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4 minutes ago, linda s said:
I personally know of 2 people who bought 4x4 Sunraders and barely made it home because of impending axle failure so it is a must.
Thanks for the expertise. Not sure we have an extra 3-5k for the parts, wheels, tires, labor, or the spare time we are willing to commit to this particular rig.
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Thanks yall, I super appreciate it. More importantly the rear seat belts part sticks out too.
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I'm not either at this point. What do you think is a fair price, if I was going to have to source the axle and such? 25k?
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My trouble mostly lies in the negotiated price tag.
Not sure it leaves a lot of budget room for us personally to source the true dually full float axle, wheels, etc and labor. I've gotten comfortable with our offer, if it was good to go with the axle. Not certain I can take the risk with a kiddo in the rig.
https://vanlifetrader.com/listing/unicorn-toyota-sunrader-4x4/
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Its an incredibly clean truck, and the mechanic is very impressed with it, but if it poses a danger to the family via the axle situation, I cant justify it. The price tag will also hinder being able to do major work like this, unless its actually not that pricey.
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Thank you. Saddened, but safer to leave it..
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Hi All - New member and so thankful for the help I've already gotten and information that's available when searching.
I'm set to purchase an out of state 1985 18' 4x4 and I'm getting mixed information on the axle situation. The photos do show a 6 lug inner dual wheel, if my accounting is correct, but in speaking to the owner as well as mechanic, I've become confused.
A failure did happen recently, and the mechanic provided an invoice for an "axle kit" and the labor to replace the left rear axle. He stated the owner seems to have overloaded the camper for the daily usage of the 6 months of their ownership. The mechanic thinks that the nature of the hills in the region, combined with the weight and load caused the failure.
In explaining the axle situation to me, he mentioned it technically was not "full-floating" but semi-floating for what that's worth.
I'm trying to due my best due diligence before buying but could really use help making sure this setup is what I need or need to avoid(or replace).
Thanks so super much.
-Kyle
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Thanks so much again. We’re also considering a composting toilet to avoid all this or even just run the shower to grey. I need to check the dimensions to see if it works. The Nature’s Head unit claims to be wet bath compatible.
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23 minutes ago, linda s said:
Silly me it's in this thread and was copied and posted by me. Just scroll up until you see the pic I posted of Greg's set up. Toyoguys set up would work too. All of this work requires a considerable amount of skill so be careful. Don't want you messing up expensive parts.
Linda S
Thanks so much! The shower and toilet spouts are still there, but I didn’t see the vent one from the underbody video.(would I be able to even?)
I figure if the BWT is already out, I should go ahead and bypass or look at a reroute before getting the tank back in, aye.
Along with the actual tank, close off valve, shower reroute pipes, and appropriate supports, what other component items would be needed to refit it? I saw mention of a foam seal, but I think that was for the actual toilet. I’m assuming a properly sized rubber boot that fits in the tank and gets sealant for the tube to slip into, but I’m uncertain. Is there a diagram or parts list perhaps?
Thank so super much! Headed to pick it up in 2 weeks if all well.
-Kyle
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19 minutes ago, fred heath said:
IMPORTANT!!!
Before purchase check to see if the rear axle has 6 lug nuts holding the rear wheels in place. If you only find 5 lug nuts, the axle is unsafe and will need an upgrade. This can easily run anywhere from $2-4K. You may have to pull a hubcap to see what’s there.
Welcome to our forum.
Thanks! It's stated that it does have a 6 lug rear. Waiting on close up photo confirmation.
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On 12/3/2021 at 12:35 AM, ToyoGuy said:
If a tank is really damaged, I believe you can still get a replacement (it's been 7 or 8 yrs ) here in California
Howdy!
I'm about to purchase an 85 18'er, and the prior owner had suspension work done, deciding not to reconnect the black tank. She didnt use the bathroom, and thus told the suspension folks not to bother re-attaching it.
Now, to get going with the toilet, we'll need to obtain a comparable replacement and install it.
(I'm hoping there is enough down pipe to easily re-attached to without pulling the toilet or shower drain (is there a closet vent and a shower wall pullout needed too in addition to the shower drain and toilet drain?)
Are you aware of the location to obtain the replacement, or is there a more roomy blank version that can be mounted and solely used for black water? I'd like to to the bypass on the shower if we're starting from scratch anyway.
is this the direct replacement? (https://www.tank-depot.com/productdetails.aspx?part=R-59H)
Would theses perhaps work with the greater capacity?
https://www.plastic-mart.com/product/11038/trionic-14-gallon-holding-tank-wh-2014 or
https://www.plastic-mart.com/product/954/18-gallon-rv-holding-tank-69h
THANKS so much for all the info all have posted about this!
New Classifieds
in News - Forum Help & Discussion
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Thanks for the extra resources!