wadingthroughlife

Hopefully true. I’ll take a video of the process again tomorrow.

Thanks. I’ll grab some thicker wire and connect it up tomorrow. I took videos of all the voltages and also test lights on everything too. Also the awful sound. I’ll recap the main finding- the house side of the isolator is only getting 9.0x volts resting while the house battery itself is 12.67. also, the ignition source is getting 0 with ignition off and 11.12 with key in on position.

I drew the extra post on the diagram borrowed from another reply. I changed the circuit breaker and same issue. I did try the move the small post ground connected to the battery to elsewhere on the chassis, but then I got zero power to the house 12v items. Moving it back to the battery, I get power to those items again but still a funky electrical sound in the isolator if I turn on the fridge or outside not led light. If I take the winch power and ground off the house battery, the house battery only has that small ground wire to the isolator. I was worried I’d fry something. if I go isolator small ground to body and also disconnect the winch, then there would be zero ground connecting to the house battery. I’m checking voltage on the isolator and seeing 11.5 to the post where it connects a small positive to the silver box/ignition source if using the battery as a gound. If I use the body, it gets zero voltage with the key in accessory. With no ignition on, I get matching voltage that I get from each resting battery at each respective post, including the circuit breakers two posts. Ie house was about 12.7 resting and so was the isolator and circuit breaker at the right side of it. The starter was 13.2 and so was the isolator side where it connects.

Worth a try.

Great; thanks!!!

I'll check where the larger ground on the house is going to. I think it was direct to the bottom of the winch. Not sure if that counts as a proper ground depending how it's bolted to the steel bumper. I'll replace the circuit breaker, re-do the connection under the truck for the house battery to dc panel/converter, and check the house battery ground. For the last part, can I check it with the multimeter some how? Electric is not my strong point as has been likely seen.

So, this is what I have going on as best I can tell. Left battery is starter, right is house. I guess I should triple check that, but it seems to be true. 1 - I dont know where the positive (wrapped in black electrical tape - center wire on left battery positive post) wire from the starter to the 80A fuse in box goes afterward. 2 - I cant tell if the negative on the house battery (right battery) to the winch on the bumper counts as grounded. Should the winch be on the starter battery anyway? 3 - I'm not certain about where the red wire on the 1st small post on the isolator is going. It goes to the small silver box in the photo of the setup via the yellow connectors. 4 - Should the second small post's black wire actually hit the body instead of the house battery?

I'll diagram mine being on a 4 post as well to see if it helps anyone find my gremlin. On the above one, I'm not seeing the wire that goes back to the dc panel/converter, and there are only 3 posts. I'll draw it out in a last stich effort and re-check voltage.

Ah shoot. I was hoping it was a matter or correct placement. I'll clean up the connection under the truck that isnt in heat shrink in hopes it might be some corrosion. I replaced the isolator with the same 4-post one using the same connections as it was. The active "clicking" is gone, but there is still a strange whine literally inside the isolator. I didnt feel the circuit breaker doing anything. Maybe it's time to drive her over to an RV shop.

The online instructions don’t seem to show where the alternator actually connects in. I’ve come across diagrams showing it both ways unfortunately. actual one in truck https://www.rvupgradestore.com/v/vspfiles/assets/pdf/7001S_WiringDiagram.pdf There’s a photo attached of a different one too, but not sure it’s helpful. It showed the alternator going to the isolator I do believe. Thanks for the continued help!

Will do. Can you confirm, if in general, the left side post of the isolator ( receiving the starter battery single positive cable currently) should actually also get the alternator power versus it going to the starter battery itself? It seems like the starter battery is getting the direct alternator voltage as well as connecting to the alternator fuse currently while also running to the left post of the isolator.

Also in the rear, it looks like newer power cable was run to the panel from the engine bay. The connection should probably be heat shrunken at least I would assume. It’s pretty well connected though.

Hi all, Being home allows for more time to look at this. Thanks all so far! What I think I’m seeing is on the left, for the starter battery, the alternator is going direct to the starter battery, the starter to the isolator, and also under the fuse box. It is also grounded with the negative. On the right, the house battery has a positive and negative from the winch, a positive to the isolator, and a negative small line to the isolator. The isolator in turn has a positive going to the circuit breaker and back to the panel, but also one coming off the house battery at the same pole. the isolator also has the small black negative to the house battery, a wire on the other middle pole to the yellow plug and silver box mounted on the left. It gets a power cable from the starter battery too. Im getting proper alternator to starter voltage and hood starter battery sitting voltage. im getting nothing to the house battery from the alternator and good resting voltage from a stand alone charge. Shouldn’t the alternator go direct to the isolator at the starter battery connected side? what’s the positive to the fuse box off the starter battery? Should that connect elsewhere? thanks!!!!

I appreciate that; I actually have intermittent brake and battery lights flickering while I drive too. Previous owner said it hadn’t done it before he recently cleaned the engine with some spray and hose off stuff which I wasn’t expecting to have happened.

I do. I’ve tried to post them from my phone, but it keeps timing out. Just hard from the road covering miles each day. Mega appreciate each reply and everyone’s help. I removed the two smaller red and black wires that power the fog lights that did cross the batteries. We fully Charged the house battery last night and it’s showing 12.8 without the engine running. I’d looks like maybe my 80amp fuse is bad, but my alternator is charging from what I can tell when the motor is on and the batteries read higher than full or gain when low related to the house battery

It was 11.5 engine off. It was climbing when the engine was on. Seems it was trying to recharge. Sound right?

For sure. I did use the multi meter on it, and it showed 11.5 earlier today after a long drive, but then after a short drive, it’s showing 12.3. I think we’ll put the optima on a friends charger overnight in Colorado and maybe try a group 24, if it fits.

Going to replace the house battery with a Walmart 12v deep cycle group 24 and see if that solves the issue. The optima would get us through the night after a good drive but eventually the furnace wouldn’t ignite from what I researched here and elsewhere as low voltage. I opened up the fuse/breaker box by the isolated and it looks like the 80a one could be toast? I’ll post a pic and try to look up what it breaks.

Adding photos. I removed the small red and black wires from the batteries that come from the fog lights that crossed the two batteries. One wire went to each battery. Still got the same clicking though. Got and checked the batteries with multimeter. The starter battery is perfect, but the 3 year old house battery seems the be at 11.5 and comes back up with the truck running, meaning I think that the alternator works.

It seems to be the solenoid type. I’ll post a pic. Will pop the hood in the morning too to check the basic wiring. Grabbing a voltmeter tomorrow as well. The click is 100% the isolator and happens when the truck is either all the way off or in the ACC position. If the key is in the “on” position, it doesn’t click for the fridge 12v or the outside light. No other items cause the clicking. He did put in Hella flood lights in the front that I recall also causing it to click. Perhaps I need to disconnect any associated wires for those and see how it shakes out too. Im going to take a video too.

Thanks y’all, it really seems to be that the isolator itself is clicking. I’ll inspect the breakers as noted and report back.

Hey all, Seeking help from the road, since I don’t have lots of time to research. We got an 87 Sunrader yesterday and it was having a sort of strange electrical issue when not on shore and using just 12v. The isolator seems to be clicking when on 12v fridge only while the vehicle isn’t running. I know we will run propane or shore when the vehicle is off usually, but I wasn’t sure what this was about. Also, the outside light at the door when switched does the same click when turned on and the engine isn’t running. It’s the only non led bulb. In this same situation, when on just 12v, it seems having on more than 1 light draws power away from the others pretty good too. It has a dual battery system with two yellow top Optimas that is seen pictures of a solid charge. We would majorly appreciate any thoughts.

From what I found searching here and otherwise, I believe it’s the extended/larger tank that the gauge didn’t necessarily read empty correctly on. I’ve seen photos of a couple others (screen shots of most notably the Dr Lee rig and yotahome)where the fuel cap is actually cut into the fender as opposed to the body. The one we’re going to look at and pick up is also pictured. I believe the tank is a 26gal but maybe it was 22 and I misremember.

Ah - Thanks for the input. At least there is some visibility on the shell if anyone else needs items now. FYI - The 87 seems to have had the driver's fender removed at some point, as I can see the mounting holes in photos, but the passenger side with the fuel filler neck within the fenderwell doesnt seem to have had holes. Not a rush, but I'd definitely like to get some back on it one day. Any clue what year fenders may fit the 87 18' body?

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/972680929994097?ref=saved&referral_code=null There's a 78 shell in Georgia, near enough to me, that I want to get the fenders off of. The seller wont part it out and would seemingly rather cut it up and junk it than deal with parting it. He's looking for $1500. Noting the cost of replacement over cab windows, a decent looking door, the fenders, and other random bits that may be useful, I was considering just biting it and purchasing the entire shell, since I have a place it could sit. I think the seller may be slightly negotiable, but it doesn't seem like much. I would be willing to get it if others may be interested in buying other items off it or even the whole shell, sans fenders. I guess I could just hold on to it for the sake of the windows if I ever need them, but I'm not sure the price justifies the parts. I guess I'm seeking input on the idea. Thanks!