COYota
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Posts posted by COYota
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That is correct. Removing the bearing races took a lot of determined tapping with a drift, but they were interchangeable between hubs The inner seals are pretty flimsy and are next to impossible to remove without damage. They're cheap tho, about $5 at AutoZone.
As I understand his message, he's saying the 1/2-Ton and 1-Ton bearings are the same and he used the best of the 2 sets he had after cleaning and repacking with grease. To do this requires removing the inner seal, so he bought a new one.
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Hey, that's mine!
Here's some more info on my swap, also quoted from the Yahoo group:
"The service manual page I included shows the six lug hub in a bubble in the
upper right and seems to suggest that it will just swap in for the five lug hub.
That's what I did and it fit just great. The swap does require different calipers.
The six lug rotors are thicker and I don't think the original calipers would fit
around them. As you can see in one of the pictures, the 1T calipers are
considerably beefier.
I did my swap on the cheap. I got the rotors and hubs including the six lug to
six lug deep dish adapters, the 1T brake calipers, and the dust shields from a
1990 Ryder truck at a U-pull salvage yard for $70. The bearing races in the
hubs I bought were pitted, so I pulled them and swapped in the races and
bearings from my original hubs which still seemed to be in good shape. The
brake pads weren't worn out yet and while the rotors were a little rusty, they
didn't have any grooves worn in them, so I let them be. I couldn't see any
difference in the dust shields, but since I had them, I swapped them anyway. I
don't think I would have needed to. I cleaned the bearings thoroughly and
packed them with new grease. The only new parts I installed were inner bearing
seals and cotter pins, so the entire swap cost me less than $100 and a few hours
of labor. I got six wheels with my 1T rear axle when I did that swap, so I
already had those.
It probably would have been wise to swap out the bearings and brake pads, but I
was short on cash. It wasn't difficult to take them apart, so I wouldn't feel
bad about doing it again to replace those parts when necessary."
Brad
84 Sunrader 180RD
FtC CO
Pictures from Yahoo
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Sounds great! Any pictures of the updated interior?
Brad
FtC CO
84 Sunrader 180RD
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http://www.rustrepair.com/app2/onlinecat.htm?r=sv&p=wi-mirror-mi.dhh
I need to replace all four of my door mounted mirrors. Two of them are flat and two are convex. The mirrors have the mounting bolt on the end instead of back/center mounted. Does anyone know of a supplier for these mirrors?
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I did that swap on my '84:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/toyota-campers/photos/album/1273577737/pic/list
Not sure about the previous generation.
I searched and didnt find anything on this (for the early years) does anyone know or has anyone done the later model 6 lug (for dually wheel up front) swap onto an early model (1979-1983) spindle?
I have recently picked up a 1991 cab chassis (bad 3.O) with the required front hubs and six dually wheels so I will have the hubs, wheels and all (plus another spare rear axle!)
I was wondering before I go and pull a side off to see myself if it has been done before on early body style trucks as well.
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I'd be inclined to do that myself, but SR-5 seats have been few a far between and the ones I've seen have been thrashed. Besides, the OP was inquiring about nice fresh new aftermarket seats.
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I think these look pretty nice:
http://www.corbeau.c...eats/sportseat/
They have custom bolt-in mounts available for Toyota trucks. I"ve seen them listed at several places for around $640 a pair with free shipping. Not outrageous compared to some other aftermarket seats. Anyone have any experience with them?
Brad
1984 Sunrader 180RD
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Great idea Steve. Would love to see pictures.
Brad
1984 Sunrader 180RD
As far as mounting solar panels goes, I used the luggage rack on my 1984 Sunrader. With custom cut plastic pipe T's I was able to hook them on the rack on both sides, then use a short riser pipe to clear the roof. With a 90 degree elbow and pvc pipe with a piece of metal electrical conduit inside, it's plenty sturdy enough to hold a couple 100 watt panels. Yes, I used 2 cross pieces, one in front and one behind my roof vent. The panels will fit on either side. I'll get some photos next week and post them, it really worked out well, with no additional holes in the roof, and an actual use for the rack!
Steve
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I believe that you are correct about the aspect ratio of the 185R14C tires being approximately 82. While 195/75R14 passenger car tires are certainly easier to find, they are more than an inch smaller in diameter and are unlikely to have an adequate load rating for an RV. In some cases, the sidewalls of wider tires have been know to touch when they're used as duals, leading to failures. I'd strongly recommend making the effort to find the correct size with a Load Range D rating. They're out there.
I read "somewhere" that - if the aspect ratio is not given on the tire - it is 82. So the 185R14C is the correct size (front and back) and the aspect ratio is 82.
I found the 195 / 75 R14 to be close enough as long as you are changing all on the back or both on the front - they are easyier to find.
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Those GMC's were very cool. They used the same front wheel drive powertrain as an Olds Toronado.
I always liked the look of those as well as the GMC
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I'm sure it can be done, but IF I was going to go to the trouble of modifying the installation, I'd go the extra step and install some completely new seats. In fact, I have sitting in 'stock' a pair of leather seats from an Infiniti G20. I don't know how easy it'll be to adapt them, but I'll be looking at it in the Spring. Something like this:-
BTW, does anyone recognize these seats? They've a rather distinctive headrest.
Pretty sure those are Saab seats based on the shape of the headrest.
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www.timbren.com
They bolt on in place of the original bump stops. Anyone tried them?
http://www.timbren.com/timbren-application-guides/toyota.htm
http://www.timbren.com/timbren-application-guides/application-pdfs/TOR2002.pdf
http://www.timbren.com/timbren-application-guides/toyota.htm
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Hi,
My '84 Sunrader has 198,000 miles on the original 22R with a 4 speed MT. It uses a little oil, but still runs good and gets 16-17mpg.
Brad
FtC CO
84 Sunrader 180RD
Hi all. This is my first post. Great site - Great community. I'm just curious as to how many miles other owners are getting from their 4 cylinder Toyota Engines? I'm looking to buy an '85 Dolphin with 85,000 miles on it and I'd like to hear some feedback on whether or not it's got another 85,000 in her? Someone told me you just can't kill these engines, in fact, I heard of one guy who's built 2 new homes on his truck bed because the engine has outlived the original construction of the motorhome. Is there any truth to these rumors? Thanks in advance. Keep it up.
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Hi,
Don't know about adding a 12v element, but I've run the refrigerator and water heater continuously, used the stove regularly, and even run the furnace a bit on a week long trip in my 18' Sunrader and only used about half the tank of propane.
Running the refrigerator on 12v will run the battery down pretty quick. I only use the 12v option while I'm driving. Sounds like some folks leave it on propane then too.
Brad
84 Sunrader 180RD
If not, how long does a frig run on gas. I have an 18 foot sunrader and figure I have a 20lb tank? Going camping for a week and want to know how long I can expect the fridge to run. I won't be doing too much gas cooking or using heat so all the gas would go toward the fridge.
Thanks!
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Hi,
Check out these guys:
http://www.interwestsports.com/
I haven't bought from them, but the prices look good. Free shipping too. They sell awnings and screen rooms made by ShadeMaker. Anybody here have experience with them?
-Brad
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Not sure what size the bolts are, but once the cone washers are out, you may not even need to use them. If you haven't gotten the cones out, you can crank on those bolts all you want and the axle's not moving.
Brad
Any one know what size the 2 service bolts are??
These are the bolts you screw in to get the axle to come out.
Thanks
Tom H
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Hi,
I drove my '84 Sunrader with a 22R and manual transmission over 1000 miles this last week up and down mountain passes, 60-65 mph on the freeway, and up to 90° heat over the last week and the temp gauge never went up over about 1/4 of the way. I suspect you have a problem that needs to be fixed. Looks like you've already addressed the most likely culprits, but something's not right!
-Brad
Hi everyone,
I have had my MH for a little over a year now and I think my 22RE engine (1987 Toyota Dolphin Auto) needs some serious cooling. It is because at interstate freeway speeds (I have to try keep it up at around 60-65mph range constantly, I think driving at the 50-55mph range is just not too practical on the interstate) the engine heats up pretty quickly and soon the temp guage is reaching around 3/4 towards hot and sometimes even higher. The expansion tank keeps overflowing and the next morning there's always the need to add coolant directly to the radiator (usually around 250ml). The timing kit, head gasket, fan clutch, oil pump, water pump, thermostat, radiator (3-row) all have been replaced last year or early this year, before the replacement the temp needle will reach the top of the normal operating temp range (but never cross into red). After those parts replacements the temp will reach around 3/4 of normal operating range. I would seriously appreciate some suggestion as to how to practically lower the engine temp and thus at least the coolant won't be so hot it overflows the expansion tank.
Thanks for your help.
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I have KYB MonoMax shocks on my 18' Sunrader and I've been very happy with the job they do controlling rebound. Bilstiens also have a very good reputation.
I have Monroe Gas Magnums on my Nissan pickup and I'm unimpressed. Not bad for the cheap price, but nothing special.
-Brad
One thing I want to work on is ride quality. My Sunrader has some recent-vintage Monroe Gas Magnum shocks on it. I'm wondering if better shocks at all corners would improve things. My springs are in pretty good shape so I have been experimenting with keeping the airbags on the low side (35-40psi) but that ride is still harsh, especially on washboard concrete freeway.
I had put Monroe shocks on my F-150 during a tire change (they threw me a deal) and they were awful. Washboard pavement sent the truck porpoising. I switched over to KYBs on the Ford and it is like a new vehicle. Any similar experiences to relate before I plunk down some green for new dampers?
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Hi Tom,
Removing those cone washers can be a booger. Mine had been painted over and were essentially glued in place. I ended up needing to tap around the outside edge of them with a chisel and hammer until they popped loose. Be aware that when they come loose they may go flying off to parts unknown. I lost two of them 'cause I didn't watch them close enough. I was going to replace all of them with new until I found out that the Toyota dealer wanted about $5 each for them.
-Brad
The axle has small tapered cones that are behind the nuts they can be a bugger to get out. Try tapping on the edge of the axle next to the studs often that is enough to pop them out. If it's any thing other then the paper seal on the axle leaking the bearings and the entire hub/drum assembly has to come off.
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Hi Jeff,
That's a tough one. The short answer is that its worth what someone is willing to pay for it, but that doesn't help you much.
I've heard that 80's Toyota motorhomes are approximately worth the last digit of the year in thousands. Tha'td make an '85 worth about $5000. I don't know if that's still considered accurate, but its not a bad place to start. From there I'd add, maybe $1000 for the very low mileage. I'd add another $500-1000 if it was a Sunrader (which its not) 'cause they seem to be in higher demand than other brands.
Past that, its impossible to say without taking a close look at it. Does it have the correct six-lug rear axle? If not, deduct $1500 or so to replace it. Need tires? Subtract another $600 or so. Do all the appliances work? If not, subtract the replacement cost. For example, a new 3-way fridge costs about $800. Any leaks or water damage? Subtract the cost of repairs. Those will be hard to estimate without tearing it apart, but could run into the $1000's. Any other repairs needed? Subtract for them.
It all comes down to condition. If its in excellent shape and needs very little work, I'd guess its worth about $6000. If its in need of lots of repairs, it could be worth next to nothing.
Are you buying or selling? If you're buying, take your time and find a rig that's been well cared for. If you're selling, be realistic about your rig's condition and price it accordingly. In either case, you're unlikely to come out ahead on repairs.
Brad
84 Sunrader 180RD
FtC CO
I'm looking for the actual cash value of a 1985 Toyota Escaper in good condition with 33,500 miles.
Any help would be appreciated.
Jeff
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Another LeSharo Article:
http://www.thetruthaboutcars.com/tag/lesharo/
Right before I bought my Sunrader, I test drove a LeSharo. The picture on the internet looked great. It was at a RV dealership on a consignment deal from a private seller, It was the 4 cylinder Renault Turbo Diesel. It had rust through holes that didn't show in the pictures, the interior was OK but almost impossible to get past the table to sit in the dining area. The pullout shower was a big turnoff. The test drive was OK except for the engine vibration that felt like a cheap massage bed (I heard). Upon returning to the parking lot I parked beside the spot where the dealer had been letting it idle to warm up prior to my getting there to see it. There were two huge puddles on the ground, one oil and the other diesel fuel. I walked away very quickly.
That said, I would trade my Sunrader even up for a nice GMC motorhome, to heck with gas mileage.
Allen
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Hi Marcus,
Yes, you'll need four (six, seven?) wheels like this (see attached picture). They are 14x5" wheels with three hand holes and 6 on 7.25" bolt pattern. They're not the same as regular Toyota pickup six lug wheels. I've sometimes heard them called "big" six lug wheels.
The two pictured are currently for sale on eBay (not by me) but they're kind of spendy. Note that he's selling two, but the price is for each. Good picture tho.
http://cgi.ebay.com/...=item20b10852da
Call all your local salvage yards and see what you can scare up. Also check car-part.com. Search for 1987, Toyota Truck (except T100 and Tundra), Wheel (Display w Image), select the area you want to search, specify how you want the results sorted, and enter your Zip Code. Click the Search button and select 14x5 (4x2) DRW from the list of pictures. That'll get you a list of wheels from 87 and 88 trucks. Repeat the search for 1989 which will get the newer ones. Either will work fine.
Prices seem to range anywhere from $30 to $100 each. Maybe you'll luck out and find some close by or that can be shipped reasonably.
Brad
84 Sunrader 180RD
FtC CO
P.S. Did you get shock mounting plates with your axle? Those are the plates that the U-bolts that go around the axle bolt up to and that the lower end of the shock absorbers connect to. The ones that are on your rig won't fit the new axle since its considerably thicker than the old one. They're hard to come by and if you didn't get them, you may need to have some fabricated. 4x4 off-road shops seem to have a pretty good handle on that. You'll also need to buy new U-bolts. Having them made by a 4x4 or spring shop seems to be the best way to get the right size.
Alright everybody, call me a rookie. I just realized that I purchased the new axle, but if it is going from 5 to 6 lug, won't I need to get four new wheels? This is getting expensive.... I heard this could happen!
If I need to do this, can anyone recommend what to buy? Hopefully something that I can keep my new tires I just bought.....
Thanks all!
Marcus
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Wow! That sounds like a great deal for a nice looking Sunrader. Every window and rooftop vent leaked on my '84 until I re-sealed them. The good new is that leaks are unlikely to cause serious structural damage on a Sunrader.
Brad
84 Sunrader 180RD
FtC CO
Thanks guys! You are all so helpful. I have a lot of learning to do.
I did go ahead and buy that axel on Ebay, in fact I was already checking that out...What a deal. I am getting that puppy installed on Friday. I will sure feel a lot better about big road trips in the RV at that point.
The Sunrader has 64-XXX miles on it. I actually talked the seller of it down from $4800 to $1500!!! I don't know how but I did...
It already had 4 new tires, I had to buy two. Checked out the RV components (Shower, toilet, stove oven, furnace, refer) and they all work, except i needed a new ignition computer board for the furnace.
Also had a few pretty nasty leaks over the bed ( I think coming through the window) and a few leaks on the roof vent penetrations. I re-sealed them all and seemed ok, but the damn roof vents aren't fixed completely yet. I think the actual housing might be leaking. Hmm.
Thanks again fellas.
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Hi,
I've really enjoyed your blog and the Sunrader is looking great. I'm doing some of the same updates to mine. Can you tell me how the carpet around the coach door is attached? I can see in one of your photos that you have the door latch parts removed. Did you have to remove any other door hardware to get it out?
Thanks,
Brad
84 Sunrader 180RD
FtC Co
New carpet intallation
in Improvement and Do-It-Yourself Projects you have done to Share!
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http://www.stockinteriors.com/AutoCarpet.asp?Itemid=3986&MakeId=37&ModelId=484