Tundrawolf

No, unfortunately it's an 82, and I had to install the axle myself. I know nothing of the donor vehicle's specifications...

Do you have a part number for the wheel cylinders? How would I find something like that?

$1,700 for distributor cap, rotor, wires, and power steering hydraulic lines? I guess they don't call them stealerships for nothing! I could have the lines made at a local shop in town for under $200, and the other stuff is less than $40. Was there anything else they did?

Hi, I have had a one ton axle for some time, pulled from a flatbed of unknown axle ratio. I am in the middle of rebuilding the engine, was was bored .50 over. I have a W50 5 speeds trans I bought that I want to put behind the engine. I know for a fact the original 4 speed trans was in front of a non full floating axle that had a higher gear ratio than the full floater in it now. (In other words, the driveshaft had to turn less times in the old axle to get one wheel revolution than the full floater did) I don't know what the actual ratio is in the full floater although I suspect it's pretty high, mid fours to high fours. (4.3~ -4.7~ Not sure exactly what Toyota uses) I realize the 22R is a four cylinder, and that my twenty foot (Albeit totally gutted) long RV is automatically a burden. Does anyone have a 5 speed behind a 22R equipped motorhome? Do you ever shift into fifth?

Hi, I am in the middle of rebuilding a 22R, and I have had to go .50 over. I just rebuilt the carb, but... Does anyone have any recommendations on hypermiling this motorhome? I have a 20 foot Dolphin. Things I have done, Balanced piston assemblies to within 1/10 of 1 gram, balanced conrods. New clutch, (Everything, German quality) and also the addition of a W50 5 speed trans.

Thanks for that reply. Have you tried going to www.photobucket.com and registering a free acount there? They have a bulk uploader that lets you put 100 pictures up at a time.

Sounds like you have some debris preventing your float valve from closing. Hard starting can be a vacuum leak, which is easiest diagnosed with a propane torch. You use the unlit torch around the vacuum hoses until the engine begins to race. The propane enters the fuel system and will cause a temporary rich condition which will change the engine RPM. Don't have the torch blasting, just barely on is best. Obviously, if you're not comfortable with waving an unlit propane torch around your engine you shouldn't do this.

Definitely the muffler shop. Most of the time your muffler will merely need it's bearings lubricated or replaced to be restored to new condition.

Something that works great for filthy, rusty tanks are a bunch of nuts and bolts. Put them in the tank and shake the tank for a while. Rinse it out with the garden hose and start over until the water comes out clean. It can take a while, but when it is clean, trust me, you won't worry about your filters after that.

I'd say a safe distance, if it is igniting normally, is maybe 2' away, but I am not an expert. You want to look for flames temporarily licking where they shouldn't when it first ignites. If it ignites normally you may not have a problem. I know a lot of furnaces will click and tink a lot while turning on/off.

I have a few questions for you. 1. Is it a pilot lighted furnace? Or, is it electronic ignition? 2. Are you able to observe the ignition process from a safe distance? I ask these because I had some trouble with my on demand water heater. It is electronic ignition. The ignitor developed a high voltage leak and didn't jump spark until gas had actually leaked quite a distance away from the heater. I was brushing my teeth when I heard an explosion, like a bomb going off, and saw the wall bubble out like someone kicked it. Now, if you are having this trouble you really need to stop using the furance right away. Has the muffled whump sound always been there? If you are not sure, stop using it! If it has a pilot light, if the orifice has become enlarged, then it could be letting more gas in that it should, and when it finally ignites, it gives a whump sound. The fix could be very simple and cheap (Replacing the orifice). As far as the tin sound goes, take a look inside the heater and grasp sheet metal and see if anything is loose.

This is mildly unnerving, you know what I mean? I'd love to get my hands on the data Toyota used to come up with the 3 ton rating of the rear floater axle. At what weight does it begin to come apart? If it was 11,000 lbs, you'd see people going to 12,000 just to test it. Still, I'd love to see the data on the axle.

You're right. I might just go that route. I am itching to tear the thing apart. I don't have a digital camera, all I have is my cell phone camera which isn't very good at all. You know, I was thinking, what if I used 1x2's and just used bed sheets to cover the RV? It'd be pretty light.

After re-reading the blog about the super camper, I think I might have a better idea on how to put the cab together. If those people used $3,600 in Nida-Core for that little camper, I might be looking at almost twice that. Not worth it. I originally thought $2,500. I don't even have the money now.

PLEASE keep the pictures coming. I am about to do the same thing with my Dolphin.

You're welcome, Ralph. Are you sure that you didn't select the pay option? There's usually two options, the free option with limited storage (PM, etc), and then the paying member which give sou more perks-but all can post in the forums. I found those forums by typing "Toyota 3.0l v6 forum". The search engine hashes those terms together and gives you forums that include vehicles with that engine.

That's pretty cool. I'm not so sure, now. Honestly, this sort of thing is not my forte unless I have someone who knows what they are doing around me helping me out. I don't know how to secure this stuff together. I'd like to re-do it out of the wood slats and whatnot, but I hear the insulation isn't as good. I wonder about this stuff called "Radiant barrier". One thing is for sure, the RV needs to be re-done.

You may be able to mount it in its own speaker box under the RV through the floor with an opening for the sound. It's what I am going to do to save space. Also, make sure you silicone the heck out of the enclosure to keep water from going into the speaker. Mount it where the opening through the floor goes into an area where little traffic is, but I can't say where it should be placed. Make sure it's a sealed cone unit if you go this route, so dust doesn't get inside. I've heard of people doing weirder things.

It should be known that if you install LED lights, that because they draw only fractional amounts of current, will not operate your thermal signal flasher at a normal rate, your blinks will blink as if a light has burned out-really fast. To combat this, you either need to install ballast resistors, which negate any efficiency of the LED, or purchase a solid state signal relay, which isn't concerned with the load, and is designed to flash at a pre set rate.

Dear Monkeywell, I have an 83 Dolphin. It has the Toyota snout. I, too, am 6'1", @ 200 lbs. I can tell you, while it is not a Cadillac, it is vastly more comfortable than my 79 LUV truck, and some other miniature vehicles, I have driven. I recently did a 6 hour trip (Not that recently, but..) and was completely comfortable the entire way. I would be 100% comfortable if I were on a countrywide trip in this vehicle. I am unsure of the A/C, but if there was factory A/C available to my underpowered 1.8L (Toyota is 2.2L 4, I think your Chinook will have this engine) LUV truck, then I am more than sure you can find an A/C for your Chinook.

These are good things to know. I was going to suggest a very small and lightweight single axle trailer, having a small bed to hold it all, with tiedowns, etc. Maybe even fit it with some electric brakes for minimal stress on the rvs brakes.

Ralph, I respect you trying to figure out. I am less than half your age, but I have been working on engines of all kinds for a while. That jumble of vacuum lines, wires, sensors, and plastic crap is merely covering up what is beneath: A piston engine. It is not my intention to sound condescending. If you can get past the sensors, the vacuum garbage, and all that, you are just left with an ordinary gas engine, that you could fit a carburetor and points ignition to. With the exception of the points, this goes for every gasoline piston engine made currently, Bentley or Mazda. All that O2 (Oxygen) sensor does, it determine the amount of oxygen in the exhaust stream. With this calculation, the computer tell the injectors to dump more, or less fuel into the engine. Yes, you have an OBDI system, but that doesn't mean an OBDII system is easier: Actually, it's harder, because you have twice the sensors, and in many ways, it's just as dumb (Throwing a lean code in bank 2, erratic idle, misfire, when it's actually the fuel pump) as the OBDI. If I was you I'd consult a forum that deals with the 3.0l Toyota 6, because I guarantee you, those people have hashed out a solution to the majority of the problems you are having. You might get the immediate answer to your problem there. Try: www.camryforums.com www.toyotaownersclub.com www.tundrasolutions.com www.yotatech.com www.toyotanation.com

Less than $300/mo is pretty good rent.

How much are you willing to spend? If it was me I'd stop driving it, and rebuild the engine if you are unwilling to swap out the motor/trans. And by rebuild I mean sit down and make sure it's done right, with the latest valves, valveguides, valve seats, etc. Or pay someone to do it because ti sounds like a valve issue. You should probably be going on a Toyota forum, if it is a common problem then people may have hashed out the solution. It's not a Yugo, the motor isn't hopelessly unreliable, so you are going to have to dig in and repair it. In the end you'll have a reliable motor, and isn't that what you want? Or, you can go to a bone yard and chance it.

The weather is awful now, or I'd get the measurement for you. Is your motorhome a dually? OK So I measured. 77" outside tire to tire, and 52.5" backplate to backplate. The old axle measures 50" backplate to backplate.