nibs

I made aluminum mounts out of some T section that I had, and glassed them to the roof, then made some urethane pads & put them between the mounts and panel, screwed the panel to the mounts through the pads. Did this in Sept 08 - 5,000 mi later all is well. & thank you for the help.

In the next ten days or so, I will be back in Mazatlan, my plan is to get the same mechanic who installed the weber carb (an ace) to look at my timing chain,and re do it if necessary. He is actually a trained VW service mech, and is also gifted. Kinda cool that he used my wrenches cause they were closer and better than his. Will let yall know how it goes. we up to 113,000 miles on the clock. Tony

The gas tank isnt pressurized any more. I think it is the check valves on the cannister that have failed. Will leave the vacuum line from the tank connected to the intake manifold until we get back to the US. Thanx again for your help. Tony (in Manzanillo)

First thing I would do, after checking for mice in the air cleaner, is to open the fuel supply line & make sure you have fuel flowing when you turn on the ignition. But it could be any of a bunch of things, can you hear the fuel pump when you turn on the ignition. does the gas tank have a bunch of condensation - if you're not sure about that, put in a cup of alcohol. good luck. Tony

Thanks again, yesterday we were out for a thursday drive, and I bypassed the cannister, no change in performance and no gasoline smell. Tony

Hey Maineah, I was hoping you would weigh in on this, would it be ok/advisable to route the vent line straight into the vacuum port without the cannister in the line? I worry a bit about a backfire flashing into the tank. We wont be moving for a couple more days, then down to the Mexican coast near Acapulco. Please have a good Xmass & eat lotsa turkey. Tony

I think the charcoal cannister has failed on the Sunrader, we smell gas (just occasionally) and the tank is pressurized slightly when the temperature goes up or when we drive far. I cant get a new one here in Mexico, is it ok to bypass it temporarily or can we plug the lower hose. The vent hose to tank bubbles when I blow in to it, indicating an overfull expansion tank, but I think the problem is in the check valves in the cannister. I worry about a flash back into the tank if I bypass the cannister, but maybe I am just being paranoid. Hope someone can give me a work around. Thanx in advance Tony

What ever you do don't use silicon sealant on your openings!! The stuff degrades quite quickly and leaves traces when you remove it that won't allow other sealants to adhere. Use butyl tape, or better yet use polyurethane sealant such as pl100 or Vulkem. go to a marine store to see what they are selling, then try and find the same stuff in a hardware store. When you reinstall screws and bolts put some sealant on the threads, this will seal the boltholes, and will stop them loosening. To remove the old sealant you can try solvents, alcohol (not the drinking kind) is probably the mildest, acetone is probably the harshest, but make sure the solvent doesnt damage the finish. Make sure that you dont get solvents on plastic vent covers or plastic windows, it may make them cloudy. I learned the above building and living on boats, where we often sealed fittings that live underwater. Merry Xmass We have been in our 18' Sunrader for almost 3 months now - no cat. Tony - from central Mexico.

Hey Rich, if'n you have a nice 21'er with rear dinette, I may be interested sometime in mid summer 09. Nothing pressing, but keep me in mind. Can do all repairs myself, so would like it to look nice but can be mechanically thin. Best wishes. Tony

Hi Henry, we put in the 32/36dgev and so far like it. We put it on in Mazatlan did a rough and dirty mileage check and found it about the same, seems to have a bit more power, but that may just be the extra noise when the second barrel opens. The second barrel opens (I think) when you use the last little bit of the gas pedal. Today we did a lot of pretty steep hills, and the Toyota seemed to be a bit better on the grades. Spent a lot of time in second, mostly because of the corners. If I could have kept up the revs, third would have worked more of the time. I think the motor is running cooler, tho I have no idea why. There a virtually no instructions regarding the vacuum system so have someone there that really knows about that stuff, I was lucky, they guy who put mine on was very competant. (I have pulled on enough wrenches to know skill when i see it). The redline kit had some problems right out of the box. I have e-mailed them and got no response, the install took about 6 hours, when it should have only taken 2 or 3. the long U shaped throttle lever supplied, had to be machined to fit the Toyota actuator. there is a small tang on the throttle shaft that fouled the top adaptor plate and had to be machined. The bottom adaptor plate casting was not flat and had to be machined to stop it leaking, and the needle valve in the float chamber was loose, the nut was just spinning. Each of these problems had to be found & fixed and are a reflection on the QC at Redline/Weber. Still working on the idle, its rough at cold start and just a bit rough at warm idle, but will play with it a bit more. The guy at redline -Bob was really helpfull when I ordered and the unit arrived as expected. Tony Aldridge. If you felt like forwarding this to redline@redlineweber.com I would thank you.

Well, now that the Weber carb is on, I will just have to yank the valve cover & have a boo. Thats the next job on my underhood list. Guess what, I have another question, if Its a double chain, does it have the plastic guides? & is it worth just replacing the guides, I am nervous about the scope of the work required to change the chain. Tony (I feel like the oldest kid in kindergarten<g>)

Again, many thanks, the issue (read heated discussion with my boss) has been resolved. I will pull the valve cover & have a look, then decide when & if to pull it apart. Tony

Many many thanks guys, your info is much appreciated. Will take off the valve cover today, didnt know you could see down in there. I have a spare chain kit with me but would rather do the job myself when not on the road. Meanwhile Mexico is great fun. Tony

1983 22r do I need to replace the timing chain at 100,000 mi? The owners manual is silent on this, we are booked in to a shop tomorrow to get it done, do I need to spend the dough? Tony

Monty, that is tooo coool, Looks like factory built. well done. Tony

I'm gonna jump in here, everything said has been accurate as far as I know, but I would like to offer some experience gained from having to rebuild my 740 Allison $15,800. When climbing, shift down using the shift lever, & if you have overdrive, only use it on the flat, Maineah might give the best speeds to shift down for each gear (I have a standard). Auto tranny/s are stupid, all they know is to get into the highest gear they can. If you do the thinking you can out smart them and keep them much cooler. If you have an ect control engage it, it makes the shifts at a higher rpm. If the tranny is shifting back and forth shift down, if the engine is pulling really hard shift down, that helps both tranny and motor. If my gas pedal is floored and we arent accelerating I shift down, even if it means slowing down a bit to stop overreving, You are pushing a small rig really hard, so help it out if you can. Tony

Can anyone (Mike?) point me to a step by step instruction for the weber on an 83- 22r, I am most concerned about the vacuum lines, which ones to remove, & which ones to connect. Am in Mexico & need to swap carbs. Thank you in advance -Tony.

We run a 750 watt cheapie inverter on 12" cables, runs the 110v coffee maker no problem, I put in a second house 12volt batt with a #2 welding cable connecting the positives and to ground. Due to space limits went with 2 - 12 volt batts rather than the superior 6 volt golf cart batts. Last year 120 amp exide 6 volt batts were under $60 in Yuma. Bought a 1750 watt inverter in Quartzite yesterday, but had to take it back because it was too big to go under the dinnette seat, we want a bigger one so we can run the Microwave. We have been in a campground for the day, didnt even bother to plug in, 120watt solar panel keeps us fat & sassy. Tony

In our 18' Sunrader r22 towing a 1,000# trailer 6,800# all up, from Kelowna BC to Quartzite, we have been every where from 14 mpg to 19.1 Las Vegas to Quartzite, that was the best run, we had a bit of a tailwind. We call our trailer "Parade Leader" most of the time we are 50-55 mph. Just a note, when we first bought "Sunnyjim" we noted no oil consumption. Then had the oil changed at Wallyworld & they only had 10/30 - started to use a bit of oil. Then changed oil in Bend Oregon, switched to 15/40 no oil use since then. Tony

Look under towing about a page down from your post. It is fairly comprehensive.

Seems a shame to take out the good stuff, it will really lower the resale value of your Toyota. Propane appliances are very safe, if used properly. Many people with less smarts than you use these appliances daily. Most any one with an rv would take the time to show you how to use them. I know I would if in your area. You can get alarms to alert you to propane leaks and to poisonous gas levels. Most propane appliances have built in safety systems that shut off the gas in the event of a malfunction. Propane fridges dont need to be dead level (if its level enough to be comfortable for you its likely ok for the fridge) and fridges like being moved around. imho Propane is safer than the gasoline you put in your car daily (1 gal of gasoline has explosive energy of 19 sticks of dynamite). Tony

I and some others just added a residential deadbolt, there are pics in the photos.

Hey Magic, on Aug 13 08 I wrote a post about shifting, just search on nibs, the title is "overdrive shifting". If you browse the 'engines transmissions' area there is lots of information.