85mirage
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Posts posted by 85mirage
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Never thought of those vents.Thanks But boy my interior door handles leak cold air. I think theres a blower on the inside of the door sometimes!
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Yes, this can be.
As one increases rear braking pressures, there is additional wear on the rear brake shoes. This causes them to wear prematurely. You could be experiencing rear brake shoe wear. Or simply out of adjustment brake shoes.
thanks i'll check rear pads, As the rear pads wear down do the nuts on the valve move down causing more front pressure? and need to readjust vavle after new pads?
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ditto what he said plus you can get a basin wrench at el cheapo,or whoes. it has 4 long tongs on it. Align drain on p-trap and screw with wrench. you might need new paper gasket or use plumbers putty. i was lucky i had access to trap from behind drivers seat. GL
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I love the picts. I had my valve adjusted to more in the rear awhile ago. I think it needs it again,can this be?. But i never knew what exactly was being adjusted. Picts make easy sense. I think my MH was adjusted like the first pic. Made MH stop a lot quicker!
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sorry i can only speak for the 4 22re auto which has been good to me and i guess lots others. It is slow but i like my road trips slow. I am on 2cd tranny. They do diligence and are under constant load.
I have taken my 4 banger frome maryland to california 3 times. I never had to go lower than 3rd gear with my 4 speed tranny
standstall
Wow!!! Which way do you go? I was in first or second for awhile going ....I70 or was it I80... headin toward denver going east.
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my 85 22re 140k? automatic fiberglass Mirage with no bathroom gets 17-18mpg and i drive it hard have hit 85mph downhill. we should start a "fastest speed attained" thread!
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It may be the selonoid or relay or switch or something. i forgot name. Like previous posted it could be connected to brake. You must depress first. This same thing happend to my car a little while ago. i was stuck in park. I got mad and forced into drive. Fine until i tuned car off. wouldnt start again. looked underneath and transmission line was hanging. needed tow. my mechanic laughed when i told him i forced it. Instead of just the something there was something else i broke Ha!
Oh my car, but diff year shares same transmission as 85 toyota truck /camper
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Nice renovation!,My floor framing was aluminum so unless pieces are broken no need to beef-up. Osb is crap especially for floor it will absorb moisture. i used 3/4 ply and primed all six sides.I used frp in bath and am happy with it. Although i just discovered i need to reglue a section. Its harder to work with and more flimsy than paneling. Had i braced frp probably would have stayed put. I cut Frp with a jigsaw with metal cutting blade,more teeth. I also used 3/4 inch blue ridgid insulation on walls.
Next up is flooring and bathroom walls.
The floor is spongy in places, but seems to have solid framing. I'm thinking that I can remove whatever sub-flooring I find, add to and re-enforce framing when necessary, and top with new sub-flooring. Is OSB an acceptable material, guys? Do I need a layer of plywood under that for additional structural support? I'd like to keep the thickness to a minimum as headroom is a precious commodity.
For bathroom wall covering, I'm leaning strongly towards FRP
http://www.lowes.com...Dfrp&facetInfo=
Does anyone have experience with this stuff? Any alternative suggestions?
Any advice would be appreciated.
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I agree 100% with Waiter that triflow is really good stuff I use it on the locks at the jail!. If you have access to compressed air blow the dirt out of the track first and make sure the little drains underneath are clear.
ive tried to clear my drains both from the outside and in but there is a brittle plastic track inside that prevents me from access. Any Suggs?
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You might think twice after seeing my attempt at a rebuild. I've yet to finish but hope to someday. Not meant to dissuade you just to give u a heads up. Try link below or search all forums for Burnt Shasta. Go for it! I'd be happy to answer any ?'s
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I have same axle/rims on my 85mirage. I believe it is beefed up. My mirage is lighter than most rv's with limited amenities. I have traveled over 60k visiting all lower 49 states with bad axle and have no plans to replace. No one will agree with me but thats fine with me as i'm driving. Just thought i'd give you my 2 cents. I have pict of axle in photos
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anyone want new style lens cover for free? i ordered wrong one it wont fit. i could have sworn i posted this before.Does wisconsin rv have online site?
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yep its a copper pipe gas line. I have removed and am not replacing the hot water heater but have yet to remove its gas line. So while im at it, maybe ill just replace cut line/pipe. They must lead to a junction fitting at propane tank.Thanks all
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While renovating i on purpose hack sawed a gas line leading to stove. Any tips on how to get that flange like end? So I can hook line back up. Thanks for any suggestions
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If you also have holes in roof you might try a new rubber roof. I've installed rubber roofs/epdm on homes and to begin you lay down 1/2 to 3/4 thick cardboard like 4'x8' sheets of underlayment which the rubber adheres to. Which i guess would add insulation to RV. Although then you'd end up with a black roof which you'd have to paint white like others have said. But think of the double durability of it! New roof and roof coating! I guess you could double up the board which is cheap. Good luck
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I can measure lenth and width dont know if weight is on reg. i'll look and report tommorrow
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I dont have any manuals or paperwork but have owned mirage [no bath] for 10 years or so. Could i be any help ? oh Check front bed windows for leaks
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Thermo-coupling i think is the part for fridge.
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I was able to get blue 3/4 insul at either depot or lowes. I got some and needed more and went back to other store which didnt have it. cant remember which one.
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Post a pict but i think i know what piece your talking about. Stuff is very expensive at $50/ft. They used butyl/putty tape under all my moldings, 86 shasta. i would like to fiberglass rear corner seam shut. You could try removing molding and reapply tape to seam and put old molding back.
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looks great, nice picts too . perfect size makes me want to do mine!
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Cant tell you what your original roof was but how about this. Liquid rubber roof $65gallon
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i got 2 for $51 here delivered
havnt installed them yet and need to get the valuable covers oh i dont recommend nor not recommend link. just where i got um
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Alot of the water damage seems to be coming from the seams where the roof meets the fiberglass siding. I plan to have the roof (rubber or rhino) over lap the sides to cure this. Any advice would be apreciated.
I had same problem and from rear seams as well. i was able to cover one seam with fiberglass cloth and would like to do all seams. As for rubber/EMPD i have installed on homes but not rv. Go for it its somewhat easy, what will make it hard are all the protrusions,vents etc. I would recommend remove as much as possible like 14x14 vents. Oh on a home you lay uderlayment /fiberboard first then position rubber over it and fold in half apply glue to board and rubber fold over and roll it. And repeat for other half. Then you could cut out openings for vents and reinstall. Apply seam tape over vents and around any protrusions and screw bar around perimeter over your fiberglass. Or use liquid rubber or any of those other products.
Installing new converter
in Electrical
Posted
I'm planning on upgrading entire rv part of the electrical system in Shasta. And hope to install inverter as well which it has never had. Am i restricted to upgrading existing converter to a new brown box type like this? http://www.ebay.com/...a#ht_1477wt_913
Or can i use one like this? http://www.ebay.com/...1#ht_1094wt_913
i dont think Shasta has breaker box for 110v which Mirage has for sure. What does this mean?
thanks HNY