Supurcar

Here are a few pics, not s drip of oil anywhere so it is very tight. I ran some feul system deep cleaner, changed the oil, cleaned the battery posts, and it seems to run a lot better. I have failed to find the fuel filter, it is not in plain sight.

Yes it has a diagnostic port, like I wrote I think there is something on the snout by the airbox that plugs in. I believe it to be an air flap that may open and close to slightly choke it during warming cycle. I think it may be engaging even after it is warmed up, but I am guessing. I will start with the fuel filter like you suggested, I already changed the air filter. I tried to pull the spark plug wire but it separated so I could not pull the wire off the plug. Is there a trick to this?

Well this is not about an RV, but a new addition to our family. I traded out of my 2007 Chevy Silverado (that I bought when gas was $5.00 gal, which increased in value) and used the increased value to trade out and pick up a 1998 Tacoma xcab 4x4 2.7 4CYL and cash out (no more payments). The truck is a high miler but I figure this 2.7 has to be bullet proof. It had one owner, and has a lift kit or leveling kit. My question is if anyone is familiar with this truck, it runs okay but seems to surge at idle and this evening it was hisitant to rev up, like a flat spot or almost a vapor lock. I am thinking a bad ox sensor or tsp sensor, I did notice by the air filter box a male and female plug that appeared to be disconnected and taped. Looks like a factory job, maybe it is for the automatic transmission models, but it plugs into the plate in the snout that connects the air filter box to the intake. Maybe I should take a picture lol.

We drove 8 hours to Ocean Park Washington for a family reunion. We had a nice drive and the Toyota ran flawless, very smooth! I took some photos, I will add a few. And to think I was worried that the steamer was to big to go under the bridge, we drove right over the top of the thing as it went under the bridge (we could see and smell the smoke coming out of the stacks). .

Well my plate also call for 28psi and also mentions the weight of the motorhome. Some say go by the tires, and others say go by the truck manufacturer's guide, who knows? I have been running 40/45psi just to in between the 55psi people and the 30 psi on the plate ha ha. I did notice one thing and until now I do not know if anyone has mentioned it, the width of the rear axle and front axle are different. On mine the rear dually axle is much wider than the front axle and I believe that is why there is what I would call driving conditions. Add the fact I have the bags in the rear and it is a little bit jacked up, and I think it explains the sluggish handling and the vibrations at different speeds, but again who knows? This is a reach but I wonder what would happen if the front fender wells where to be flared, and a wider axle placed up front to match the rear.

Thanks for the feedback. That frigiking was too old and is no longer making rooftop a/c units (for about 20 years). It actually looked clean but I did not want to risk it not working and the price was too high. I actually went a different route and tried some shade netting around the perimeter of the RV and it worked quite well. Most of the heat comes thru my large side windows which get burning hot to the touch. And the over cab area does not have as much insulation as the rest of the RV. I clipped a 6 foot by 14 foot wide section to my luggage rack and to the ground along the sun facing side of the RV; it reduced the heat by about 70-80%. I just had to move it when the sun changed angles but the netting kept it comfortable inside and it was about 89 degrees outside. In temperatures above 95 degrees it may not be as effective. I just fabricated up a quick test when we camped two days ago, I am going to add to the design and make an "L" shape to go around the front (or rear) and sun facing side. It also gave a bit of privacy at night.

I read on another thread about someone buying a used a/c unit for around $140. I need one so I went hunting at my local wreckers. I found a couple of them, one place wanted $250 and they had a bad attitude. The thing was out of a 1972 wrecked R/V and looked dirty. Needless to say I passed on that one but it was a coleman. I found another place more reasonable in a mid 70's larger R/V, it looked like the crew used it as a break room as there was a table set up and a bed made up and ready for a nap, it was in the junk yard lol. So this R/V had a frigiking a/c and they wanted $150 for it; I took off the shroud and it had the mounting kit kind of like steel box sleeves for the square cut out- and they looked like a good fit. It was dusty but no more than the cabin a/c I have now normal use I am sure. It was also hard wired and had a box and steel tube for the wires to run through to the coach wiring and two switches. There is no way to test the thing so I am looking to get some input from anyone who has done this, or am I better off finding a new one?

I have a thread in here somewhere from my trip to California from Eastern Washington. I went after my mother passed away just over a year ago. I drove thru central Oregon, over Shasta and into the Bay Area. At high altitude my automatic transmissin lost o/d. I am told that is by design because of the altitude. I made it all the way over Shasta even in high winds, get a running start at the hills and do not let the lack of power bother you, you will find you can take most hils in 50-60 MPH range. Good MPG and no need to tow a vehicle and no hassles parking etc. I went during December and it was snowing like crazy and I never put on chains but carried them. On very very steep hills you might find it pulling lower speeds but it will make it thru the mountains. I have a 2wd 4 cyl 1987 Sunrader, my wife loves it.

Can you post a picture of what you are talking about? I would go back and get a refund from the mechanic that charged you $250.00. My A/C just needed some freon and of course the mechanic says I need a whole new compressor. I charged it and it works fine, I think they have a minimum they will work for and try to create work. I bet you did not need to "service" the unit at all or pay $250 for about $40 worth of freon.

I found some Firestone D range tires that fit (185 14), I think they may have been made for commercial use or trailering. They are D range and are not mud and snow, but ride okay and they where cheap. Tire rack had a set of Yokohamas that looked like a nice tire also, I think they where 195 75 M+S load range D. I think they are a discontinued model.

I need to add rooftop a/c where did you get one for $140.00??? And I must say to have to put some money into a 20+ year old rig it is not bad luck but something to be expected (maybe not the engine) but even a vehicle with low miles will still age and need things. Seals shrink for lack of use, weather damage, condensation- etc. I have put some $$ into mine to fix it up, and had some "bad luck" with some body damage. I thought about selling but we kept it and use it all the time. Who knows if you sell it and get something else you may have to start over on the fixups. Looks like a nice truck to me and you know everything that is going on with it.

You said the engine blew? What exactly are the running conditions you experienced, might be cheaper to just fix the thing and drive it, or just temp fix to get you home.

If mine is jumping in and out of o/d I just turn it off, I read it is better to have it revving than bogging (for the transmission anyway) especially going uphill. I have a tough time keeping it from downshifting when I am on the freeway, I need to be on a very flat surface for it to stay. I also find I do not have to overfloor the gas pedal, I just give it enough gas until it is not picking up speed anymore and try to keep it there in third and it helps on the mileage (maybe a bit more than half throttle most of the time). Any futher stomping on the gas has no effect unless I am going slow enough for it to shift down to second which is overkill unless on a steep hill.

I did not think it was a good idea to drive around with the gas on, and it may be illegal. Mine has an electric setting, so I used the electric when driving and gas when docked. Some people mount the generator to the rear bumper.

I bought a cheap set of helpers because they where on the shelf, they looked like pot metal or something. One side was a u joint and the other bolted over the leaf spring. When the bolt snapped on installation (I really did not even tighten it that much) I figured I did not want to find out on the road that they where poorly constructed, if I can snap them without much effort I figure a good size pot hole would shatter the mess. I returned them the same day, I will buy a set that has two u joint ends next time. The Timbrens look interesting, I wonder how they compare to the bags? I guess they would not strengthen your leafs, just help when the failing leafs bottom out or start to droop. I have the bags now, but I am tied of the jacked up look, and my leafs seem to sag a little when the air pressure is low in the bags.

Well I have been doing some research myself and have found there is a few options. Greg has a link to a set for about $40.00 that will add 2k pounds and it looks easy to install. If you read thru the posts you will find the thread, I think it was "shocks vs. bags" or something of the sort. I bought a cheap pair of helpers for $29 that would handle 1k pounds but they where very cheap and the bolt broke when I went to attach one side so I returned them. I will end up getting a type where there is two u joints to fasten them instead of a bolt going over the leafs. I do not know why some of these site have similar kits for hundreds of dollars, when the kit that everyone seems to prefer (it is even recommended for RV use) is about $40. Good luck,

I went to my local auto parts store and he had a listing for these same helpers. Although he wanted $80.00 for the set, I am wondering if these are sold individually or as a set of two? That might explain why they where charging double.

I started to read thru the thread but I did not read all of the posts I do have a guess on the switch though. It looks like the same place my hot water heater switch is placed, so maybe that is it. I have three setting on my fridge; GAS, ELEC and 12v. and it has to be on the correct setting when parked or my converter will chirp and click a real funny noise. I prefer using gas when stopped. If you need a coach battery be sure it is a deep cycle or marine type in case no one mentioned it.

I have the air bags on mine, and Greg has a point about the rear height. I have about 40# in my air bags and it is a visible lift and my last set of tire where worn uneven. I also put in the Rancho 5000 shocks to help with the bumps, I guess these shocks have a larger piston so they handle the bumps. I do like the bags as it is easy to adjust, and they are very secure in their placement. Be careful where you run the air lines if you go this route, when I bought mine the air lines where melted. It seems the previous owner had run them over the exhaust, it looked like maybe the fastener fell of or something, but they where melted and the rear was dropping (but not touching the tires). I like the idea of the leaf helpers, and I wonder if there is a heavy duty sway bar or torsion bar available?

I had a water leak from under the cabinet where the water storgae tank is. It only leaked when I was hooked to a water main outside. At first I though it was my fresh water storage tank, I thought it was punctured with a wood screw from underneath. But it turned out after much investigation to be the inlets underneath the kitchen sink. The water slowy seeped down under the hoses (so it was not very visible, surprising because of how much water was moving) and would trickle down behind and run from underneath the tank and on to the carpet, so it was an illusion that the storage tank was the culprit. After I tighten up the hoses to the sink the leak went away.

The big sur, Pebble beach, aptos, Santa Cruz and all is a must see, even farther up to San Gregorio. I usually cut over to 5 before Sacremento (heading North), I take 6(80) to 505 to 5 from San Jose (To avoid the SF city traffic and mayhem). There is a nice RV park at Rolling Hills Casino with a traveler's lodge and a nice place to shower for a few bucks. I usually gas there, and then again before going over Shasta. I am not sure where you want to end up, you can take the coast the whole way if you want. There is a lot of coastal towns and most have services available. I try to never go below a 1/4 tank so I will gas early rather than chance it.

Glad I am not the only one who has done this, it is okay now finally. I did notice while I was underneath a lot of oil on the drum. I think I may have an axle seal leaking or at the very least a wheel cyl. Down the road I will have to tear it down and do a complete brake job but that is for another thread lol.

I am feeling around in the blind, I know I can get it but so far no luck ha ha. I wish I had a picture of it and that might make it easier to feel what is going on. I could have sworn I had it but went to back up and the brake is still tight. Let this be a lesson to anyone trying this. I am trying to poke the plate outwards and I have tried both sides of the adjustment star below the threaded axle thing trying to hold the plate back. If it was right in front of me it would be easy, but on my back with no room to reach is the real problem. ___________ ====[]==== | ___________|

I bet your exhaust manifold has a loose bolt or something like that. It will sound different as it heats up and cools and the thing expands. I know all these small 4 cyls clack when they are cold and then quiet when the oil gets pumped to the top end. That is all I can think of unless a piece of shrouding it getting knicked by the fan or soemthing else like that.