hagamuffn
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Posts posted by hagamuffn
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I got the new starter in and it started right up! I ended up almost taking out those trans lines, but decided to have another look. From the top, on the left side of the engine block and fuel injection, the previous owner had installed another horn system and a cruise control system. Neither worked but took up a considerable amount of space. I tore all that stuff out, and unbolted some of the a/c hose clamps. I was able to drop the starter in from there. Cheers!
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25 minutes ago, WME said:
Rear KYB shocks are around $37 ea. For a temp booster for your rear springs try these...https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/rideeffex/truck---towing/trailer---towing/trailer-accessories/spring-helpers---shock-extenders/c5f7fccb14e5/superior-rideeffex-coil-spring-helper/spr4/121600
Thanks WME, super helpful. I'm concerned because there doesn't seem to be much clearance between the wheels and the wheel well. That may give me the peace of mind I need within my budget
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5 minutes ago, Scott iv said:
Not sure if you're bottoming out your suspension or just scraping the tail end of your motorhome on aprons. New leaf springs should give you some lift and will prevent you from bottoming out (research leaf springs here as some have bought Old Man Emu leaf springs without enough leafs and they also flattened). Shocks prevent the bouncing but will not give you any lift. Research replacing leaf springs and bushings. Remember ordering and having them delivered may take time, and it can be quite a job removing the rusted hardware to get the old ones out. Make sure you have enough time to get the job done.
I installed air bags and it gave my motorhome lift. My leaf springs are also on the flat side.
Makes sense. We have scraped the tail, but its noticeable going over railroads for instance, the entire rig will bounce and it sounds like it's bottoming out.
From ur info, I might be able to wait on suspension till when we get up north. Thanks
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8 minutes ago, Scott iv said:
Speak to the symptoms you are experiencing when driving. Is the vehicle bouncing like a pogo stick? Are you bottoming out with a hard bang over large bumps? Shocks would definitely be easier but may not cure the problem symptoms
I definitely get the large bang over bumps, and we've been bottoming out getting out of driveways and parking lots. And it's a little bouncy, but not terribly. I'm really just concerned because the leaf springs are so flat. I live out of this rig with my girl and her dog, and we've been adding quite a bit of weight to it, with the addition of tools and all. I drove it to Oklahoma from Oregon 6 months ago, and now I think I'm just getting paranoid. I know the rear suspension will have to be replaced, I'm just not sure how pertinent it is.
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In several weeks we will be heading from Oklahoma to UP Michigan, 19hrs of drive time, appx 1135 miles. I have enough money to replace one or the other, the shocks or the springs. The shocks look old and the springs look flat. What do yalls think is the most important to prioritize for the trip? Also, I'm doing the job myself... Are they both relatively easy jobs?
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These are the lines that are in the way,held in place by a bracket. I'll try undoing the bracket and moving the lines aside to see if the whole starter can fit through that gap. I'll also disconnect the smaller circled wire as well.
To be continued...
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28 minutes ago, 5Toyota said:
most often i have found cleanup the disc end of the solened plunger and those 2 copper contacts will be pitted or even worn down replace those most often its fixed . the old dead key syndrome.
Good to know! Thanks.
I have an 86 22re btw
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12 minutes ago, extech said:
i've found some you can flip the disc over and use the other side. twice the staying power
I'll have to give this a shot after I clear space to make the starter more accessible for taking on and off. Hell, I'll have an extra starter now, so I'll have some extra parts to play with.
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17 minutes ago, Maineah said:
If it just clicks and nothing happens that's probably all that's wrong with it.
This is the issue I've been dealing with. It'll occasionally start, but it's becoming fewer and Farer between.
Can I just replace the disc ur talking about, rather than the whole starter/solenoid?
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2 hours ago, linda s said:
Amazon doesn't bring that starter up for me and it's not the same part number as Toyota uses. The internet is telling me that's the starter for a Cressida. Here's the Toyota part
28100-35020 - Toyota Parts Deal
or this
28100-34080 - Toyota Parts Deal
First one is slightly more powerful
Linda S
Here's their description for compatibility:
"Compatible with
Denso 028000-5900, 028000-5901, 028000-7560, 128000-1240, 128000-1241, Toyota 28100-34060, 28100-34080, 28100-34080-84, 28100-35030, 28100-35030-84, Valeo 458621"The starter I pulled off had a Toyota sticker with the numbers 028000-7560 & 28100-34080
I guess we'll see...
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2 minutes ago, Maineah said:
Two things the trans uses a cable not a throttle rod and it's not in the way. The trans cooler lines have no "coolant" in them just ATF. It has been a long time since I have done one but I don't remember them being a major job. The starters had a contact disk in them and with age were problematic so it was pretty common job to have to remove the starter to deal with the contacts pretty sure I just pushed the lines out of the way.
Super helpful knowing there's nothing in those lines. Is it feasible to carefully bend them?
The starter I pulled appears to be an original. Ordered a $60 replacement off Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0962S14Z1/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?smid=A1HUOX44GJ1KQ3&psc=1
I'll keep y'all's posted how it works and fits. Thinking about rebuilding the original as a back up, maybe?
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11 minutes ago, linda s said:
OK now that you made me get my hands all greasy I get it. I see where they could be a problem. I'm still convinced I could wrangle it out of there some other way but I would have to remove my starter to prove it. Not going there. Carry on
Linda S
I think it could be worked out if the solenoid and starter are separated, as I had to do to get it out the top-front. Otherwise I'd have to bend the transmission coolant lines, which I'm terrified of pinching or breaking. I'll upload a pic tomorrow. Don't know why I didn't think of that earlier
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Mine has transmission coolant lines blocking the bottom.
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Yeah, turns out the best way is to drain the coolant and remove the trans coolant lines running the across the bottom. From there the starter can be dropped down through the bottom. Top won't work without taking the starter and solenoid apart, and more lines would have to be removed to pull it out the wheel well. Looks like I'll be doing a coolant flush before I install a new starter.
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On 6/7/2012 at 2:01 PM, linda s said:
My Chiltons says you have to disconnect the throtle rod to get access to it if you have a automatic tranny.
Linda S
Im doing this job rn on the same rig. My Haines doesn't mention this. Thanks again linda
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2 hours ago, WME said:
Yes for a deflector. The 12" depends on your roof and how much space there is around the front of the solar panel. I just glued the FRP to the top front edge of the panel and sloped it and glued it to the roof. Use an outdoor rated construction adhesive. This way no extra holes in anything.
Panels get HOT when in the sun so I left the other sides open and the roof of an RV going down the road is very turbulent so "streamlining" the panel is sorta useless.
thanks so much! i feel like i have a better idea as to where to go from here now. again. thanks a bunch
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3 hours ago, Ctgriffi said:
Big box home stores usually have it, although only in plain white in my experience (special order for different colors). RV repair shop might sell you a piece or two.thank you kindly. white works fine for me. ill have to go have a gander
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8 hours ago, WME said:
On my rigs I took a piece of FRP about 12" x panel width. Just glued to the front of the panel and the roof. I left the sides and rear open
as far as a wind deflector?
i havent worked with FRP, where is it available?
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In my research, i also came across this. https://engineering.stackexchange.com/questions/2207/how-would-adding-a-wind-deflector-in-front-of-roof-mounted-solar-panels-affect-d
the page talks mostly about wind drag, but i think alot of the same concepts apply. It seems like fabricating a wind deflector for the front of the panel and slight ramp at the back of the panel would be optimal. Then closing up the sides of the panels to prevent wind coming in underneath from the sides. Maybe vent these side bars to allow heat dissipation? Again, any thoughts are greatly appreciated
Thanx
Hagamuffn
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Well, I did a thing. I bought a 325watt solar panel. It was only $100! But....in all the excitement, i hadnt even considered how i was going to attach this thing to the roof of this 86 dolphin. The rig has one of those thin aluminum roofs with small wooden crossbeams underneath. Getting the solar panel to attach firmly without the wind ripping it off, and possibly the roof, at 60mph is the issue. I've looked into z brackets, but i dont think these alone will suffice. Also considered rails, but trying not to put a dozen holes in the roof for obvious reasons.
After spinning over this for the past couple weeks, i figured id consult the wisdom of the forum.
Thanks to everyone in advance!
(p.s.) im budget oriented and will do the work myself, so costly solutions prolly wont do, thanks!)
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Just now, WME said:
OK the first one is the only one (Samlex IDC 200C) rated at 48v in. It has a 16 amp out @12.5v. So you need to go through your RV and up grade all the light to LED and reduce the total DC draw. Check water pump and vent fans. Just something to think about your power panel has 8 or 9 15amp 12v circuits.
The 48v inverter has a 1500w output, it doesn't say if its Pure Sine or Modified Sine.. 1500w Pure Sine MAY run a micro wave but that will not run an RV roof AC.Lots of modern things don't like modified sine.
In the bad old days you could charge a 48v LiFePo4 battery stack and then discharge it as 4 cell packs in series and then parallel those for more amps out. With the smart balancer's in modern batteries I don't know if this would work. In any event you would end up with a unused stack of 2 cells. Maybe they could run all the USB charge ports.
The solar panels are a killer deal if you decide to go a different route.
With the amps in those batteries be very careful when trying things, LiFePo4 batteries burn with the prettiest blue flames and make very noxious fumes...Don't ask...
we are already in the process of reducing our dc draw. leds switched out, and fans next. not really trying for a microwave, and the a/c we may just get rid of. so, im not too concerned about high draw usage. ive also read and watched plenty already on the topic of these types of battery packs being highly dangerous fire hazards. The panels really did seem like the sweetest deal, and my biggest hesitation has been that leaf battery. It seems like more and more of these electric car batteries will become available and more easy to integrate into tiny home/ rv setups.
ill probably pass on the leaf battery for now and grab some panels. we just replaced our coach battery with another 12v marine deep cycle. any ideas on what i should supplement it with? another lead/acid? Lithium?
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Just now, WME said:
OK basic question, how do you go from 48v to 12v?
it appears there are dc to dc converters for just these situations
https://www.altestore.com/store/voltage-converters/dc-to-dc-voltage-converters-c511/
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Just now, WME said:
OK basic question, how do you go from 48v to 12v?
good question, i'm looking into it now. i guess i just figured the inverter would also regulate voltage. but i dont know
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Just now, WME said:
Don't know how hard it would make it 12v RV useful, but it would be killer in an off grid cabin.
we are planning on living in our dolphin until we can build a more permanent tiny home/ off grid cabin. thinking it may be worth the overkill now as an investment for later. figure all the components would still be just fine in 5 years when im more settled and got some land to throw some stuff on.
As far as right now is concerned, we plan on charging portable power tool batteries, and having enough power to run a tv/dvd, laptops, wifi, phones, fans, and our LED lighting. seems like that nissan leaf battery would do more than enough for full time rv living, especially with 400w of panel.
Removing starter 1986 22RE
in Engines - Transmissions - Drive Train - Suspension - Chassis - Steering - Exhaust - Tires - Etc.
Posted
I'll be rebuilding the old original starter I pulled out. The new starter I got was cheap, so at least I can have backup that I know isnt worthless