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hagamuffn

Toyota Advanced Member
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Everything posted by hagamuffn

  1. I'll be rebuilding the old original starter I pulled out. The new starter I got was cheap, so at least I can have backup that I know isnt worthless
  2. I got the new starter in and it started right up! I ended up almost taking out those trans lines, but decided to have another look. From the top, on the left side of the engine block and fuel injection, the previous owner had installed another horn system and a cruise control system. Neither worked but took up a considerable amount of space. I tore all that stuff out, and unbolted some of the a/c hose clamps. I was able to drop the starter in from there. Cheers!
  3. Thanks WME, super helpful. I'm concerned because there doesn't seem to be much clearance between the wheels and the wheel well. That may give me the peace of mind I need within my budget
  4. Makes sense. We have scraped the tail, but its noticeable going over railroads for instance, the entire rig will bounce and it sounds like it's bottoming out. From ur info, I might be able to wait on suspension till when we get up north. Thanks
  5. I definitely get the large bang over bumps, and we've been bottoming out getting out of driveways and parking lots. And it's a little bouncy, but not terribly. I'm really just concerned because the leaf springs are so flat. I live out of this rig with my girl and her dog, and we've been adding quite a bit of weight to it, with the addition of tools and all. I drove it to Oklahoma from Oregon 6 months ago, and now I think I'm just getting paranoid. I know the rear suspension will have to be replaced, I'm just not sure how pertinent it is.
  6. In several weeks we will be heading from Oklahoma to UP Michigan, 19hrs of drive time, appx 1135 miles. I have enough money to replace one or the other, the shocks or the springs. The shocks look old and the springs look flat. What do yalls think is the most important to prioritize for the trip? Also, I'm doing the job myself... Are they both relatively easy jobs?
  7. These are the lines that are in the way,held in place by a bracket. I'll try undoing the bracket and moving the lines aside to see if the whole starter can fit through that gap. I'll also disconnect the smaller circled wire as well. To be continued...
  8. I'll have to give this a shot after I clear space to make the starter more accessible for taking on and off. Hell, I'll have an extra starter now, so I'll have some extra parts to play with.
  9. This is the issue I've been dealing with. It'll occasionally start, but it's becoming fewer and Farer between. Can I just replace the disc ur talking about, rather than the whole starter/solenoid?
  10. Here's their description for compatibility: "Compatible with Denso 028000-5900, 028000-5901, 028000-7560, 128000-1240, 128000-1241, Toyota 28100-34060, 28100-34080, 28100-34080-84, 28100-35030, 28100-35030-84, Valeo 458621" The starter I pulled off had a Toyota sticker with the numbers 028000-7560 & 28100-34080 I guess we'll see...
  11. Super helpful knowing there's nothing in those lines. Is it feasible to carefully bend them? The starter I pulled appears to be an original. Ordered a $60 replacement off Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0962S14Z1/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?smid=A1HUOX44GJ1KQ3&psc=1 I'll keep y'all's posted how it works and fits. Thinking about rebuilding the original as a back up, maybe?
  12. I think it could be worked out if the solenoid and starter are separated, as I had to do to get it out the top-front. Otherwise I'd have to bend the transmission coolant lines, which I'm terrified of pinching or breaking. I'll upload a pic tomorrow. Don't know why I didn't think of that earlier
  13. Yeah, turns out the best way is to drain the coolant and remove the trans coolant lines running the across the bottom. From there the starter can be dropped down through the bottom. Top won't work without taking the starter and solenoid apart, and more lines would have to be removed to pull it out the wheel well. Looks like I'll be doing a coolant flush before I install a new starter.
  14. Im doing this job rn on the same rig. My Haines doesn't mention this. Thanks again linda
  15. thanks so much! i feel like i have a better idea as to where to go from here now. again. thanks a bunch
  16. thank you kindly. white works fine for me. ill have to go have a gander
  17. as far as a wind deflector? i havent worked with FRP, where is it available?
  18. In my research, i also came across this. https://engineering.stackexchange.com/questions/2207/how-would-adding-a-wind-deflector-in-front-of-roof-mounted-solar-panels-affect-d the page talks mostly about wind drag, but i think alot of the same concepts apply. It seems like fabricating a wind deflector for the front of the panel and slight ramp at the back of the panel would be optimal. Then closing up the sides of the panels to prevent wind coming in underneath from the sides. Maybe vent these side bars to allow heat dissipation? Again, any thoughts are greatly appreciated Thanx Hagamuffn
  19. Well, I did a thing. I bought a 325watt solar panel. It was only $100! But....in all the excitement, i hadnt even considered how i was going to attach this thing to the roof of this 86 dolphin. The rig has one of those thin aluminum roofs with small wooden crossbeams underneath. Getting the solar panel to attach firmly without the wind ripping it off, and possibly the roof, at 60mph is the issue. I've looked into z brackets, but i dont think these alone will suffice. Also considered rails, but trying not to put a dozen holes in the roof for obvious reasons. After spinning over this for the past couple weeks, i figured id consult the wisdom of the forum. Thanks to everyone in advance! (p.s.) im budget oriented and will do the work myself, so costly solutions prolly wont do, thanks!)
  20. we are already in the process of reducing our dc draw. leds switched out, and fans next. not really trying for a microwave, and the a/c we may just get rid of. so, im not too concerned about high draw usage. ive also read and watched plenty already on the topic of these types of battery packs being highly dangerous fire hazards. The panels really did seem like the sweetest deal, and my biggest hesitation has been that leaf battery. It seems like more and more of these electric car batteries will become available and more easy to integrate into tiny home/ rv setups. ill probably pass on the leaf battery for now and grab some panels. we just replaced our coach battery with another 12v marine deep cycle. any ideas on what i should supplement it with? another lead/acid? Lithium?
  21. it appears there are dc to dc converters for just these situations https://www.altestore.com/store/voltage-converters/dc-to-dc-voltage-converters-c511/
  22. good question, i'm looking into it now. i guess i just figured the inverter would also regulate voltage. but i dont know
  23. we are planning on living in our dolphin until we can build a more permanent tiny home/ off grid cabin. thinking it may be worth the overkill now as an investment for later. figure all the components would still be just fine in 5 years when im more settled and got some land to throw some stuff on. As far as right now is concerned, we plan on charging portable power tool batteries, and having enough power to run a tv/dvd, laptops, wifi, phones, fans, and our LED lighting. seems like that nissan leaf battery would do more than enough for full time rv living, especially with 400w of panel.
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