vtchris

I need to get the valves adjusted on my 1993 Toy and the local Dealership really doesn't want to do it (my feeling is they lack confidence). Does anyone know of someone anywhere East of the Rockies who is good at this?

From Casey on this forum! I can't wait to start moving into it. My old 1991 Itasca is now for sale, or will be as soon as I transfer my clothes. Thanks Casey and Sandy! Guess I will have to change my profile pic

haha.....yes, NEK.....since I am a full timer, I call the whole area "home".....have lived in Island Pond, Charleston, Derby and Newport.......presently dividing my time in my friends backyards and driveways......oh, and Milton too.... how about you???

Neat. And lucky you! Keep me posted on how it works. Plus I would be curious how much it weighs, if you ever get the RV weighed. How many batteries does it have and where are they located?

I posted the same request when I was in Texas and needed engine work, even saying anywhere in the SE United States and didn't get any real helpful replies (well, one person who did some work on the side, but he was in the NE). Where I did get some good help was at this site and even though Toys weren't his specialty he took the time to educate himself and he solved my problem. At least it is a valuable resource for good mechanics. Don't try Toyota dealerships, they really don't know about these older models.

Just wondering if anyone has rigged up their Toy for solar? And if so, how? Any pictures? What about weight?

The mechanic in Texas had disconnected the CEL (illegal I know!) thinking I wouldn't notice. I am at a GOOD mechanic in Florida now and he has it working....turns out he disconnected a wire behind that kick panel and so I don't need to get to the bulb afterall.

Do you know how to access the MIL bulb in my 1991 Toyota? I have it at another mechanic and he says he has to take apart the whole dash to see if the bulb is even there. I was watching the old mechanic and whatever he did to stop the light he did quickly, either under the hood or behind the passanger kick plate. What would be your best guess as to how he disconnected that light?

I have an appointment with a guy in Gainesville next week. Gypsy....maybe we can meet for coffee somewhere along the way?

I don't know about this stuff, but it be worth going to rv.net and do a search to get feedback. I remember a while back hearing about RVers using that black stuff (and then painting it white of course) that they spray on the interior back of pickup trucks, only having it sprayed on their roof. Many folks raved about it. Cheap too.

Looks like the the coaxle cable did the trick!

next they are going to try a "shielded" co-axle cable and fashion the ends and by-pass the harness. at least i think i have that right. am spending another night in their parking lot .....but like i told them "i am not going anywhere until it is fixed".....before i was driving it the 12 miles to my RV park and back when they said they were ready or got the part in or whatever.

voltage going to the sensor is .015v

yep, checked the timing. yep, they had to go back in again after engine install and replace knock sensor and harness. they really really don't know what the problem is and have called a help hotline. they even tried a different computer.

I am going on week 4 of not being able to drive my Toy with its new Jasper engine. Spent last 2 days getting a new knock sensor and wiring harness installed as CEL code was "52". Took all day and still am getting same code and mechanics are scratching their heads. Any ideas? I'm frantic .

I had a remanufactured Jasper engine put in, 3yr/100K warrantee.....cost $5650!!! But I can't do any mechanical work myself, so have to pay ....

Like Derek said. I took mine out, only took a few minutes, there were just some bolts on either side. Oh, I have a 1991 Itasca, yours might be different.

Super deal.....congrats!! As for how long you can go out, well, I full time in mine! But then that's me, just me, well and my small dog. Welcome to the forum, maybe you can come to the Indiana rally in October.

Count me in too! I would prefer the second week in October. Thanks a lot for organizing this and let me know if I can do anything to help.

I concur....definitely get a compression test, my 1991 V6 had a burnt valve at 107K.

Hi Sue and welcome to the forum! I was a newbie once and remember oh so well my fears around the electricity part. Everything else I understood pretty good, but was scaird about anything electrical. Basically when you park for the night (without hookups) you will be using your 12v house battery. It won't run things like air conditioning or microwaves or toasters even, but will give you lights and water pump. When you are plugged into shore power you can run anything (but maybe not all at the same time LOL), just remember that you can only run the a/c on 30 AMP power (that's the really big three prong thingy). If you even have a roof a/c. I have a 1991 Itasca and have been full timing for 3 years now so feel free to IM me with any questions. And if you get to Texas this winter look me up and maybe I can help. Peace, Christine

I am in my third year of full timing and lovin it.

I have the 1991 Itasca model and it has this upholstery covered window valance across the top and down the sides. I don't know how to remove it so I can install new blinds. Can anyone give me a clue?

I will have some perfectly good V6 3.0 1991 (100K) engine parts left over after my current swap (ie. the engine cooler) and was wondering if there was a place that I could sell them? Or if they would indeed be of any value?

I checked on the warrantee, thanks for the heads up, it hadn't occurred to me, but all is well, warranty covers as long as gvw doesn't exceed 17K. It is a done deal, bought and charged for.....I go on Monday for the work. Thanks for all the advice.