ATXBreeze

Hi Everyone! In search of purchasing a replacement Refrigerator Gasket for a 1989 for a Micro Spirit. The current gasket is compressed and worn out. Right bottom side and underneath do not even make contact with the unit. Been dissatisfied with the interweb search results because they all tend to omit the most important information: the dimensions!. My gasket dimensions (measured from the outside) are 21 X 35.5. If I had the model number it would be easier to track a gasket/rubber seal down, but the information sticker at the bottom of the fridge has been damaged by moisture or just plain faded (the model number info is blank). If someone could please provide a model number and/or a store that sells said gasket I would appreciate it. Thank You! Max

Hi! Am I over charging/harming my house battery (Everstart marine/RV battery) by being plugged in all the time (24/7) into a 30 amp 120V receptacle (my shore power)? Reason is I'll be living in my Micro Mini RV for a few months (90 days straight or thereabouts), and I'll always be plugged in. Should I unplug the house battery, leave things alone, or do something else? Any other "living in an RV" advice welcome, too. I've "lived" in my Micro Mini for two weeks in my backyard and so far and I must say it's been a breeze. I have a gray/black water sewage line I'm connected to, and city water connected (with pressure regulator), so I'm H20 set. Inside, most everything I reach for is at arm's length, max a few steps away. Importantly, I've gained valuable knowledge/preview, made adjustments, repairs, tweaks, and customized, all in prep for the spring road trip. Still learning, tho Thanks all!

Hi Friends! Either on house battery or plugged into electricity, all my light's work except two, the one over the stove top and the one over the sink. Both stopped working at the same time. The vent quit working at the same time, too. All three had been working previously. Replaced bulbs on both but still do not light. There are no blown 15 amp fuses (5). Any idea what may be going on? Are there other fuses located somewhere else? Thanks! NEVER MIND Friends. Occam's Razor, took much closer look, pulled out 15 amp fuses, discovered 2nd fuse from the left was indeed blown. Sorry for the false alarm

NeilP, I just got all 6 of my tires rotated and balanced at the Discount Tire shop on Ben White. (512) 443-2616, ask for Tim (the manager) $84 for all 6.

What a WEALTH of information. As always, thank you all! Max

I've read on this forum about reverse threaded lug nuts on certain RV models (NOT righty tighty lefty loosey). Can someone please confirm that my RV's (1989 Micro Spirit Dually) lugs are removed and put back conventionally (righty tighty lefty loosey). Don't want the impact wrench at the tire shop get it wrong without me warming them. And one other questions about the house battery. I bought and installed a brand new Everstart, which lights the light just fine, and runs the water pump just fine. Should it/can it (the house battery), provide juice to the electrical sockets? For a small TV, small fan, and electric radio for example. (I tried the sockets today on the fully charged house battery and the 12 inch TV, small fan, and electric radio did not work) Thanks!

Got it (finally) I think I understood my shore power options/capabilities, and my house battery capabilities (for dry camping/boondocking - which I plan to do plenty of) all along, just didn't have my technical facts straight Main concern is I didn't want to generate an electrical problem and harm the RV. If all electrical systems are working (and I've put the RV though it's paces plenty), I think I'm good. Thank you!

Thanks@ Dunno how I came up with 220 😆 Images off the Google and sloppy investigation/extrapolation. So to be clear, I have: 12V and 120V shore power capacity. My running RV charges my house battery thru the alternator. And provided everything is in proper working order, both modes of shore power connection (12V or 120V) will also charge my house battery. Thank you!

Hello again! I bought an Everstart marine/RV battery from Walmart and have a few questions that need confirmation. 1. First, is it correct that while driving, the engine alternator will be charging the house battery safely. 2. While on shore power, a 220 volt connection (part of the RV, 30 amp) can charge the house battery safely 3. While on shore power, a *120* volt connection (220 downgraded w a dogbone to a standard household plug) can charge the house battery safely And please, any other tips/comments concerning house batteries most welcome. Picture of both connections included. Thanks!

Well I'll be darned. I downloaded a pdf for a 1989 Itasca (not the Micro Spirit, the larger one, the one with a van-like front). I went to the LP Gas section, specifically the LP Gas Detector/Alarm, and it's identical to mine, a NEWTEC. It's built in, standard. Not an after market add-on. So the LP Gas Detector, in my Micro Spirit, it would seem, is very likely detector built right into it. I grabbed a picture, attached.

If the detector goes, would this be a viable replacement? https://www.amazon.com/Cazoner-Natural-Detector-Propane-Combustible/dp/B07BWFBQLB/ref=redir_mobile_desktop?ie=UTF8&aaxitk=0cXgFMSfbrUxkQvBGX1luQ&hsa_cr_id=7998146500301&ref_=sbx_be_s_sparkle_mcd_asin_0 Just today I ran a test to see about the propane flow and if the Newtec detector indeed must be "ON" for the propane to flow. And yep, it has to be on. When I unplugged from shore power (turning off the detector), and tried the burners, no propane flow. Then I plugged into shore power, depressed the "ON" button (amber light came on), and propane flowed. When I turned the gas detector on, I heard the same, subtle, electrical/mechanical engagement noise as before. Thanks!

Linda, et. al., here's a picture of the LP Gas Detector in my 1989 Micro Spirit. Dunno if it was a standard to the RV, or an add-on. But like I reported before, right after I depressed the "ON" button (the lit amber light), the propane, which had not flowed, flowed to the stove top. Anyone else have this NEWTEC gas detector in their RV?

Wow, talk about a makeover Going to do this in the next few days, thanks!

Not quite filled, I only asked for 2 lbs of propane as I myself was unsure of the general state of the tank. But you're right Fred. The person who added the propane did have some pause regarding the rusted state of the tank. Oh dear. Now I gotta get the tank replaced. Or gently remove as much rust as I can and paint it and never have it filled more than half way.

Thanks! Right now I've gotten a good deal of general info from a pdf I found on this site, an owner's manual for a 1992 Dolphin. It's specific here and there, but equally general in description and instruction. My dream is to find a pdf manual of my RV, a 1989 Itasca Micro Spirit. I've looked everywhere! This little RV was manufactured and sold in 1989, and one would think that somewhere out there, there would be a nice, comprehensive owner's manual. I'd be willing to pay to get my hands on one

Sorry for not clarifying if I'm using AC or DC juice. So during all this LP propane experimenting, I've been plugged into a 15 amp connection (using a "dogbone" power adapter). At home, I also have an outdoor 30 amp connector, which I use all the time, too. So no shore power yet, just home electricity via extension cords. I'll be gettin an Everstart soon. Wanna run everything through it paces before I hit the road.

Yes, I'll post a picture tomorrow of the LP detector for sure. It's recessed in to the lower back of the booth style bench seat down low to the ground, the seat w it's back to the refrigerator. Are you referring to the 12 Volt House battery? Don't have one yet, but it's on my list! I completely agree, wanna eat and *especially* make coffee when stuck in the middle of nowheresville This is the house battery I have in mind, a middlin' brand that won't break the bank: Everstart Marine&RV. ($75 at Walmart)

Did a Goole search on the subject, this was the site that pointed me to the solution: https://rvblogger.com/blog/rv-propane-not-flowing/ The propane detector was #4 on the website list below. When I turned the LP Detector on, I heard a distinct mechanical engagement. Turned around, turned on a burner on the stove top, and propane was flowing. Me thinks that definitely did the trick. " Luckily, if your RV propane is not flowing, it’s easy to troubleshoot and resolve. Start by checking these four items and chances are you will solve your dilemma. Check to make sure the Propane Valve is On Check the Excess Flow Valve Check the Propane Pressure Regulator Ensure the Propane Detector Inside the Motorhome is On "

SOLVED! -------- LP Gas Detector was OFF ------------ Turned it on. Lit all four burners. All good Thanks

Update: The gauge, upon much closer inspection, is showing about 1/4 tank full. Also, I neglected to mention this There may have been propane in the tank that was several years old (up to 5 years old). Can propane go bad? EDIT (after google search) "Does propane expire? Another way you get peace of mind is that propane doesn’t have a shelf life or an expiration date. That’s because propane doesn’t go bad!" And if propane can go bad, do I need to have all the propane in the tank drained, and start from an empty tank. Thanks!

Hi Linda. No. There is no propane flowing to the stove. I've turned the the stove knobs to "On" for a good while (monitoring closely for for distinctive propane smell) also allowing for possible air purge, but with no results. What about (what I'm calling) the regulator, could this be a possible in-between barrier? And to be clear, there is no other valve between the propane tank main valve and the stove, correct? Of course, it could be that the monitor inside the cabin is indicating incorrectly that the propane tank is full. And it could also be true that the indicator arrow on the tank is pointing to nearly empty instead of full (It's hard to tell!), and like you suggested, 2 lbs won't do and the tank needs to be filled to 80% Thanks!

Hi. U-haul did not turn anything off. According to the monitor inside the RV, there is a nearly full tank of propane. While fiddling with the clear cover I described before, it snapped to nearly full. Thanks!

I'm a newbie, please forgive the elementary questions! Firstly, on my 1989 Micro Spirit, the propane tank is built in. I have a few question regarding start-up operation, the gauge, and the propane powered appliances (I've included pictures) The gauge, to begin, is hard to read. Also, there's a red arrow on the face that can be rotated by turning the clear cover. When the cover moves, so does the red arrow. Is this normal? Finally, there is a (ground?) wire screwed to the face of the clear cover. Can someone please explain its purpose. I added 2lbs of propane at U-Haul. When I got home, I turned on the main valve, went into the cabin to check for a leak, didn't smell propane, good. Then I turned on one of the burners on the stove top but no propane flowed out. Perhaps I should have left it on longer, maybe there was air that needed to be purged. Is there another "turn on" valve I'm missing? Back to the built in propane tank: I removed a small screw cap on what looks like a regulator (lower left hand on first picture). The face has a large Phillips style face I supposed was for adjusting. Could this part of the propane flow equation? Besides the stove top, there other devices/appliances that I believe are powered by propane. The hot water heater and the refrigerator. How do I check to see if these other devices are in the propane-off position, and if they are off, how do I turn on? And where are they located? And where are the pilot lights. With no manual (links anyone?) or youtube videos, I don't know how to proceed, and to do it safely. As always, Thank You!

Hi Folks! I would like to have a removable mattress cutout in my Mighty Micro Spirit because #1 - I *think* it would enhance driving experience (an open space above me I *think* would feel nice), and #2 (my primary reason)- the significant ease of going from driving cabin into the motor home cabin (and vice a versa). Right now, there is a solid 3/4 inch sheet of plywood spanning the entire bedding area. As you can see from the roof of the driving cabin photo, there is a cutout space there (covered by cloth by the previous owner). So "cutting-out-the-cutout" (with a jigsaw), with careful planning, should not be very difficult. Cutting the foam (electric knife!) will be easy, too. I can do it. But should I do it? Of course it's up to me, but I'd like to hear from those who have removable mattress cutouts and those who don't, the likes/dislikes, the pros and cons, before I start jigsawing away. (the last photo is a typical picture of what I'm aiming for). Thank You! Max

Great video on how to discharge both old and new capacitor, thanks. The guy who did the video commented that discharging the old, *still connected* capacitor (no shore power on of course) is okay, too, with the same procedure. Can you confirm that discharging a capacitor that is still connected is ok. As far as switching the wiring from one the old capacitor to the new, seems straight forward, just duplicate the order, correct: Common, Fan, Herm About to order your recommended capacitor replacement https://www.amazon.com/Motor-Capacitor-Round-15-12703/dp/B00C0YSDKI Will report how it goes. Thanks so much!