Otolith
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Posts posted by Otolith
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On 1/3/2021 at 9:07 PM, WME said:
Follow the clicking sound until you find it. If the noise comes from something that looks like this...https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/cole-hersee-circuit-breaker-30-amp-12v-30055-30-bp/11044639-P?searchTerm=auto%20reset%20circuit%20breaker
Then you have a 12v wiring problem, the little guy is an auto reset circuit breaker. The most common cause is a reversed battery connection
I replaced this when I replaced the battery isolator. However the clicking is coming from the power board on the fridge. The fridge seems to turn on sometimes but not always.
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On 12/26/2020 at 10:30 AM, Maineah said:
From your description your fridge is a replacement with auto start meaning you don't have to do any thing to make it go. It kind of sounds like the piezo is trying to light the fridge, dumb question is the gas turned on? So no electricity on battery only when plugged in first is the battery connected? If it is reversed connected the click/ping would be coming from the converter not the fridge. In side the converter there is a change over relay they have been know to stick in the shore power mode basically disconnecting the battery. The battery is connected to the converter usually with a #10 wire This is where your friend the vote meter comes in because guessing won't help. First battery voltage then next battery voltage plugged in it should be higher. This can become confusing fast have a friend that is knows about low voltage stuff? Two of the worst possible wiring things are boats (#1 they tend to explode) and campers (#2 they usually just catch fire) I have found that people who have twisted two wires together and have some thing work immediately become experts and from your description it sounds like this maybe the case.
You’re right I need to get someone who knows this stuff in the camper to check it out.
The electronics work on shore power but the fridge just clicks. Even though it was working on shore and house battery before the house battery died.
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On 12/26/2020 at 10:05 AM, WME said:
What model refer do you have? Is it a 2 way (propane-110vac) or a 3 way model (propane-110vac-12vdc).
Did you "redo" ANY 12v wiring?
It is the 3 way fridge. I didn’t change any wiring although I may have bridged the posts on the multi battery isolator which I’m replacing tomorrow.
However, the fridge and other electronics worked fine after bridging the isolator. But after recharging the house battery they still don’t work. -
7 hours ago, WME said:
As far as the transmission leak you may need to check out a speedi sleeve. If the output bearing is OK there is a possibility that over time the original seal worn a grove in the shaft and when you install a new seal the grove cuts the lip on the new seal. A speedi sleeve will give the new seal a smooth place to run.
That's cool I haven't seen those. Thanks for the help
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7 hours ago, WME said:
You have something hooked up wrong in the 12dc battery side of the house.
The clicking sound is most likely an auto reset circuit breaker. They act like this when the battery is hooked up backwards
Who knows what has been done to your wiring in the past 40 years by other owners.
"NORMAL" wiring usually is white = ground and black = positive.
The only question I would have with this is how the fridge worked properly for a year. And it was on for the few days before it started acting up.
But I think you are on to something, as I'm not getting ANY of the electronics to work one house power. Only on shore power. Fuses are good, breaker didn't flip. The wiring is a mess of different colors with splices and duct tape. I'm having a hard time making sense of it.
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To make things more confusing - The fridge has been clicking like this for a few days regardless of if I am on shore, house, or no power. The fridge's LED never shows anything, but if you stick your hand in the freezer, it seems that it has been cooling.
Any ideas?
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Merry Christmas!
I can't seem to figure out what is going on with the electric system in my 1980 17' Sunrader.
1. I think I solved the first problem - I'm pretty sure I accidentally bridged the battery isolator while replacing the clutch master cylinder. So now the coach battery isn't charging from the alternator. I have a new isolator in the mail.
2. MAIN PROBLEM: The fridge (Norcold N510) is making a click noise from what seems like the middle of the control panel on the back. The sound is every 10 seconds or so and it does not sound like ignition attempt. It's a pronounced electronic click. It actually makes the same sound when you press power, though the fridge doesn't turn on. It sounds like it attempts to turn on every 10 or 20 seconds. This occurs when on shore or house battery and even when I switch to neither shore/house.
It does seem that the fridge got stuck in this mode the same time the house battery died. I did not realize the isolator had faulted so I was surprised by losing house power. I'm hoping the deep cycle can still be charged.
Is it possible the fridge is stuck trying to power on? Is there some sort of reset protocol?
I have pulled the panel in the back and unplugged and replugged everything I could. Fuses are good.
Side question: I have had the rear seal on the transmission replaced twice and it's still leaking. Before taking it to another mechanic, I'm going to try the Blue Devil stuff. Does anyone know where to add oil to the L43 4 speed? There is no dipstick or obvious fill cap that I can see.
Thank you!
Cam
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I believe I've seen this one. Doesn't look great, exactly, but would get the job done I'm sure.
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I'm considering 4x4 truck options for swapping my 17' Sunrader onto. I am open to diesel, though I'm not totally sure of the diesel situation in Baja. So it may have to be an older diesel.
I've seen the Sunrader paired with a Tundra, Tacoma, maybe even a nissan and chevy?
I don't believe I've seen an F-150 or Ranger Sunrader. Or a Dodge.
Any input from those of you that have taken these projects on or looked into them would be great. Just looking for ideas and vehicles to start researching.
thanks
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43 minutes ago, Derek up North said:
As near to the house battery as possible to reduce voltage drop is the typical recommendation, but I don't know how well a typical inverter will survive the hostile environment under the hood.
Yeah that’s a good point... under the dash might be the happy medium
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Thanks Derek you are a wealth of info. Looks like I don’t have indicators. Will have to do it the old fashioned way
Any advice on where to put an inverter? My house battery is in the engine bay. I'm thinking about putting the inverter in the engine bay with a remote switch and an extension for an outlet.
Thoughts?
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Thanks all. 4 leaks later and it works as it should.
Maybe a stupid question... How do you know the Grey and black water tanks levels?
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Do these have different timing than non-rv 20r motors?
Mine just has an 8, then it has an indented mark next to a raised mark but both of these are offset (to the left) of the 8 instead of directly underneath it.
The vehicle is good under power but has a slight miss at idle and a tiny bit of wavering at idle.
I went through the steps to set the low and high idles.
Also, the compression was something like 160, 135, 155, 125 (I don't have them with me)
Then wet compression was something like 160 150 155 145.
I believe the car sat for a bit. Possible buildup issues?
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On 4/2/2020 at 10:56 PM, WME said:
What ever you do remodel, repair remember Sharkbite...https://www.homedepot.com/b/Plumbing-Pipe-Fittings/SharkBite/N-5yc1vZbqpfZ4n3
Thanks for that. After I fixed that one, I noticed the city water valve was leaking. Another thing to replace
On another note, anyone have good solutions for relocating the propane tank? I have a diamond plate truck tool box I'd like to put on the back of the vehicle. But this blocks the propane access. Options are
1. Relocating propane in rv
2. Swing out cargo box
3. Relocate propane to cargo box? A bit sketchy back there.
The access for mine is currently above the rear bumper.
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I was just reading up on that... Sounds like the Sharkbite fittings may be best option for now. Cheers
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Still learning the ins and outs of this old thing. Looks like some of the systems were replaced and are a bit jerry-rigged.
Anyways, I have a water line leak underneath the furnace right where it connects to the bleed valve. I can't find much information on these old lines.
What does it take to redo this connection?
I'm considering switching the system something like PEX. Seems easy enough besides the really tight areas. Any advice from those who have done this?
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11 minutes ago, fred heath said:
Otolith, you’re welcome.
Not sure if you’ve addressed this subject. Does your rear axle have 5 lug nuts or 6?
If you have duel rear wheels with only 5 lug nuts (GO82 axle), your axle is unsafe.
You should have a total of 6 lug nuts on your rear axle. This is known as a full float (ff) axle. Hope you had the upgrade. Fred
Yes thankfully the axle was swapped to 6 lug including receipts.
Just to derail this post even more: Anyone swap their L43 for the L52? I’d be curious if the swap difficulty as well as improvements in drivability
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4 minutes ago, fred heath said:
WME, you’re correct. Lacking a 17 digit VIN, the chassis is definitely an 1980.
The early Toyota ID plates attached to the inner drivers side fender also contains such information as engine type, transmission type, and rear axle type. When in doubt, refer to this information.
Attached is a typical ID plate.
That’s it! Actually on the inside of the passenger fender on mine. 1980 20r L43. Thanks Fred
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All of the registrations show the 5 digit vin. The chassis has a manufacture plate that is stamped “2/80” but I can’t find a vin in the typical spots. Not sure if this means 2 of 80 or 2nd in ‘80.
It has the taller curved front windows that seem like they ended around 1980/1981.
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Yeah the licencing department people were confused too. But it came up in their system correctly. I also have a stack of records for the vehicle including previous registrations. Strange huh?
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2 hours ago, linda s said:
Very possible he doesn't have a 17 digit vin. Can't check year from the early ones. If he does the year is determined by the 10th digit. A is 1980 and B is 1981
Linda S
Actually the vin is just 5 digits. All numbers. It is a 1981 per the vin.
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3 minutes ago, fred heath said:
Chances are your cab and chassis is a 1980. Many motorhome manufacturers bought several at one time. When the vehicle was completed is was assigned a model year number. So your 1981 mh could have a 1980 drivetrain. Go with the 20R for engine parts.
Ah that makes a lot of sense thanks
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Thanks for the help everyone. I cut the AC belt and replaced the serp and it’s running well. Everything inside is working great (besides the fridge only working when the truck is running).
It’s a bit odd. When I go to the auto stores, they say that the 20r wasn’t in the 1981 trucks. The valve cover says 20r.
It could either be:Stock 20r?
22r head?
Swapped for 20r?
Does anyone know how to tell if the block is a 20r or 22r?
Any electricians? Help needed
in Electrical
Posted
I’m pretty certain the clicking is not actually the igniter. I’m familiar with the igniter sound. This sound is a single click every 10-20 seconds and I take the cover of the fridge panel so I can tell it is actually coming from the panel. It is the same sound that occurs when you press the power button on the front of the fridge.
This is strange because it was happening regardless of if I was on shore power or battery or turned off. Like it was stuck trying to turn on somehow.
Now that clicking has stopped but the fridge is acting strange. Basically, it doesn’t always turn on. Sometimes it won’t turn on after trying the button a dose times, then I go out a day later and it is on.
Another bit of info: When trying to turn it on, I hear the same “click” but no signal from the LED. And fridge doesn’t turn on. I have to wait a bit before pushing the power button will produce this click again. Not sure if that is important or not.
thanks for the help. I got frustrated and left it alone for a week but I’m gonna look at it again tomorrow