cannante
-
Posts
62 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Events
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Posts posted by cannante
-
-
Driving into Los osos I realized that my door was ajar and opened it up to slam it and it would not close again.
The latch on the inside has a plastic thing around the metal and the plastic on the passenger side is fully wrapped around the latch whereas there's no plastic visible on the driver's side and it stops before it will even close a little bit it's like the latch is permanently on open
HELP!!
-
So every once in awhile, the car will not turn over. I have been successful starting it by popping it into 1st gear when it happens...
Until this afternoon
I was. Rolling downhill, and it was in first, the weight/momentum of the car would keep it rolling for a bit but it wouldn't take any gas
Stopped at a body shop for advice, and got back in and it started on its own.
But am worried about the new development.
I could hear first gear turn the motor but the engine not starting.
Fuel pump and or electric wire corrosion is my best bet
Planning on swapping the fuel pump and prayers.
Thoughts?
-
12 minutes ago, linda s said:
LA is probably your best place to find a mechanic. Ask the guys at the minitruck place. Bet they can recommend someone. If not you're looking for a small shop. If they have the money to advertise they cost too much. Shops that get all their customers from word of mouth are successful because they do good work. Mexicans like Toyota's too. I heard a while back that used parts were getting hard to find in southern Cal because they were all being shipped to Mexico. How do you feel about Tijuana.
Linda S
Compelling!!
TJ... Haven't been in ages! Although it must be like a oven down there right now and I don't have a c, LOL something to consider though I will definitely ask them and thank you for the help, once again!
-
1 hour ago, linda s said:
If they have the engine you need they will install it. They don't do RV repair, just mechanical and only for parts purchased from them
Linda S
Okay, thank you. Will it be difficult to find a good Toyota mechanic should I just ask around?
In New York I was told to go to the Dominicans because they cherish their Toyotas in D.r. didn't work out so well because I'm already having clutch problems
I guess I'm just still looking for mechanics I'm in the Pasadena area. Will be driving up to Idaho soon. So I can go to any place that anyone feels is a wise try in between Pasadena and Salmon Idaho!
Lol
I'll probably drive up through Las Vegas to take advantage of less expensive gas 🤓😎🤠
-
On 4/25/2022 at 4:32 PM, linda s said:
First you need to find out why it's knocking. Lots of things can make a 22r knock like low oil pressure. I saw a yooutube video of a guy and his 22r was knocking because he didn't push a spark plug on all the way. Fixed it in seconds. Have it checked out first. Looks like your posting from southern Cal. This place knows Toyota's and has engines. Some used some rebuilt, you have to call
I'm going to contact the link you gave me, but are they mechanics can they look at the RV itself or they just selling me the engine?
I'm flying back next week, and would love to have a couple options for mechanics where I could leave it and get it more roadworthy
-
Wanderlust, the difference in the terrain was significant enough that that might have been the main issue
On the drive out on the 10 they were hills but I was able to maintain momentum enough that it wasn't a problem taking out the extra weight and not needing to worry about momentum as much ended up being a problem on the hills, I think
Because especially since they were hills and not mountains
I'm in New York right now The car is in my brother's backyard in Pasadena and I don't intend on doing anything with it until these issues are all solved I have a few things that need to be looked at
Thank you for the advice regarding fuel pressure etc before anything I know I do want to put a new fuel pump in it it might solve lots of problems
-
On 4/29/2022 at 8:51 PM, thewanderlustking said:
This thread is going sideways…. There is ZERO reason to even talk about motor swapping, if cannante doesn’t even have a blown jug. Vehicles with blown motors usually don’t start up and run nicely otherwise.
The first thing to do is to verify what kind of “knock” the engine even has. cannante, if the noise is subtle, as by your comments it probably is, let’s start by trying to figure out what it actually is before jumping to conclusions and spending 5-15k on a motor swap you might not even need!
The simplest path is to have a reputable shop look at it and diagnose it. But, if it is rod knock then driving the vehicle does more damage. If the noise is subtle and not crazy loud, then there is a fair likelihood the motor can be salvaged. I have replaced rod bearings on several engines with them still in the vehicle.
Rod knock: If the knocking occurs at a stop with the truck in neutral or park while lightly reving the engine, it is rod knock. This will usually happen the loudest at the peak where you let off and the engine for a moment is unloaded. This is gentle reving mind you.
Detonation knock: This is usually a much quieter noise than rod knock but in the right circumstances can sound identical. This won’t occur with the truck stationary in neutral and gently reving it up/down. This occurs while driving it under load. If it rattles a little when slightly tipping the throttle in while cruising on the highway, mild detonation. If it sounds like marbles in a coffee can during a specific rpm band while accelerating only, severe knock.
This is a quick and abridged version and maybe not a 100% perfect description, but it will get you much closer.
Let’s start with figuring out what this noise is first and if it can be fixed before we worry about swapping the engine….
Well it is definitely time to get the fuel pump in there, I bought one a while ago and have just been procrastinating. I have to get back to California to do that
So that's four weeks out. It starts beautifully I'm wondering about power now but I was driving it with 300 lb more stuff from New York to LA got good mileage as long as I didn't try to push it and slowly got it up to speed
When I took the 300 extra pounds out, and drove up to San Luis Obispo I had problems with all of the hills and losing power. But I think that might have been because I was used to having the weight-aided momentum
-
😍😍😍💕💕
Really pleased me to see that
Thanks!
-
On 4/25/2022 at 11:48 AM, Toyota_RV_Racer said:
I just don't trust people these days.
That's entirely fair but this guy's disssembling was more about ignoring the fact that it needed breaks desperately and a new clutch and a new alternator.
He bragged about the fact that the engine had been rebuilt so I'm reasonably certain it was especially since it starts with one turn of the ignition, as long as I have enough fuel in there, because it needs a new fuel pump!
-
Thank you so much for that information, Linda. Perhaps I can keep my powder dry for the next mole to wack on this Odyssey of budget car self repair!
By the way...
-
So I didn't realize that the sound I was hearing was an engine knock and now I don't know how long I've been hearing it for. I think it might have been hearing it for a long time
Means I should probably steel myself to needing to do something about the engine. It has been rebuilt once so I don't think I can get it to be rebuilt again
I've been seeing ads for new 22R engines and I'm wondering if anyone knows how much better or worse they will be compared to the reliability of the original engine ?
-
On 10/30/2021 at 8:51 AM, Maineah said:
It's going to be a hard sell unless some thing actually broke. If the clutch disk is smoked it will be an up hill battle.
A Hard Sell to take it to the dealership?
-
I really am somewhat nonplussed about what to do should I just hold on to the money and keep on driving until the problems present themselves on the Road? any other thoughts?
Since I don't trust my original mechanic? I feel like I might be just as well off waiting for it to be repaired somewhere out of town
-
On 8/28/2021 at 11:21 PM, 5Toyota said:
i did not think you where a clutch abuser. sorry i live on the other si de of the us north west. yea i am shure i would find a different shop. i would be burned up with them no pun intended.
Sorry if I seemed overly sensitive, that guy's at the original mechanics office on talking about maybe I've abused the clutch and they have to look at it, Etc
So I finally got enough money to replace the entire clutch if it needs it
And my plan is to take it to Toyota dealership for a diagnostic, check the flywheel check slave cylinder and hopefully don't have to replace the new clutch but if it's at a dealership hopefully this time it would be work that could be guaranteed
-
When I finally have enough money to completely to buy Windows. I am going to use butyl tape for the window to the wall seal. But I need to know where to go to get the rubber sealing / molding for the glass to the window itself
I feel like I had a link at some point but it's in an old phone
-
Does anyone have recommendations for mechanic in or around the nearby area of manhattan?
The mechanic that installed the clutch is not someone I feel I can trust anymore at the moment and is not even able to look at it now anyway
I'm guessing I need a full transmission diagnostic on my 1983 sunrader with a stick shift
-
On 8/26/2021 at 12:30 AM, 5Toyota said:
did you resurface the flywhell. if anything is shaved off the center the rest of the surface has to be done to a spec to set the pressure plate down to its clerance spec. did you do the install yourself . one adjustment is under the dash on the pedal cleves. there is a locknut there pedal slack needs to be at spec .if you did the job did you use a pilot shaft dummy trans shaft to center the disc before tightning down the pressure plate. oil leaking out of the trans or rear main seal can soack the clutch. it will slip then.i hope you forgive me the clutch pedal is not a foot rest . that will for shure ruin a clutch. check both master clutch cylinder and slave for leakage.
I did not do the work.
I bought the center force clutch and brought it in to a mechanic
I think I'm going to have to take it to another mechanic.
For obvious reasons I don't have a lot of faith in my mechanic that replaced the clutch to begin with.
Does anyone know of mechanics they trust very close to Manhattan? I don't know how many more miles I have out of the clutch.
I know how to drive a manual transmission. This is not from abuse. I drove 75,000 miles on one clutch
-
It is an 82 Toyota sunrader
Shifting without a clutch is possible if you know how to do it.. I learned very much in the driver's seat while it started slipping right as I was driving into Manhattan after a long cross country journey.
If the clutch is intact enough to get it running into first gear, you can pop it out of first gear and let it ease into second gear and third gear and 4th gear
Which I did with the old clutch for over a year before I replaced it
But this new clutch, I shift into the new gear, without the clutch, and it is still slipping.
-
So I replaced my clutch last summer with a center force.
I don't drive it that much, and after about two, maybe 3,000 miles it started to slip, in february.
they bled the clutch and it worked better than right at I swapped it although I feel like it was abused a little first so I started shifting without a clutch whenever I could.
And now all of a sudden it's slipping again
Someone told me that you have to machine part of it shorter because the drive shaft or something or other is not long enough.
I wish I could remember what he said exactly it didn't seem like an emergency at the time, but I just had to cancel my dog's first show
Does anyone know about this? Is this a familiar thing?
-
On 5/10/2021 at 5:19 PM, linda s said:
Most parts for our duallies aren't available in auto parts stores anyway. Rock Auto will have what you need and you can have it shipped to your friends house so it's waiting for you there. Just look at brake hose then bearings in this section.
1991 TOYOTA PICKUP 3.0L V6 Brake & Wheel Hub | RockAuto
For seals scroll down to wheel seals
Linda S
So, everything is definitely better than it was now that I have brakes rotors drums and shoes.
I was considering doing the lines, but then a friend of mine said that it is way too complicated for a novice
Am I missing something?
-
On 6/30/2021 at 6:11 PM, extech said:
i was thinking about rear brngs. sorry. waterpump pliers (slip joint) are all you need to remove the nut.
So, I am finished with the rear brakes and now need to replace the front brakes. I don't know if they have been bled, but don't I need to take all the wheels off to bleed the brakes?
I assumed that they were bled in the back when the back was replaced, will they need to be redone when I do the front?
-
On 6/30/2021 at 7:40 PM, john*thomas said:
If it's been a long time since they were replaced or you aren't sure it most likely would give you a peace of mind.
I don't know enough about cars to feel like I would be able to do it without being probably equally worried that I screwed it up.
Rotors and pads seem simple enough, but brake lines see much more complicated?
-
2 minutes ago, john*thomas said:
Most auto parts stores do have these. For no more than they cost don't hammer and chisel.
Thanks
I'm wondering from what I am reading, if I should replace the brake lines, too?
-
I have been looking for the big wheel bearings socket, 54 mm.
I have to go to an auto parts store for that, right?
it's really hard to hear on the audio but the guy said I could use a hammer and a chisel instead?
Other than that, the 17 mm socket, and the 10 mm and a screwdriver, I don't think I need anything else to remove and replace the pads and rotors?
car starts tempermentally
in Electrical
Posted
When you say the starter relay do you mean different than the starter engine? I'm quite a novice when it comes to car things.