Northoak

Here is link to the locking strip I went with for anyone troubleshooting this in the future https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NUHRE6S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 It appears to have been a good fit but I am getting a leak in one of the corners as well as where the gasket ends meet! I think this could have been avoided if I had cut my strip a bit longer so it was tighter in the corner and glued the two ends together. I ordered some sikaflex, I will report back on whether or not I am able to remedy the situation.

Hi folks. We had a big storm here in northern California and my Chinook windows are leaking! What is odd is that they are both leaking in the same places. one of them also appeared to be weeping some water from the screw in the bottom rear corner. At first I figured I should pull both windows and reseal them to the frame with butyl tape, but the point where they seal up looks quite strong so i suspect something else is causing my leak. I have a couple questions regarding this type of window where it compresses into the fiberglass frame by screwing it on. How does water get through the screw holes? my understanding is that they aren't exposed to the elements. Does water get in through the point pictured below where the alluminum frame is split? If so what would the best way to seal this be? thank you for the help! We've been making a lot of progress restoring this old rig and were pretty bummed to see our new walls get wet!

Hey folks, the title says it all. There is a lot of play in my shift lever and a large gap between where the lever itself mounts. It’s a little hard to explain but I believe the photo will give you an idea of what I speak of. is this normal? Is there some kind of bushing that goes over the two bolts shown? Did someone maybe just replace them with some bolts that are too long? Any insight is appreciated as I am unsure how this should normally be. Would putting shorter bolts in so it can sit tight cause some sort of wear? Thanks again! nick

That would be wonderful if you did that! I'd gladly cover shipping and throw you some bucks for it. I'll send you my address right now. The fiberglass is definitely thinner than the plexi although it is not an even thickness and is actually thicker in a few places specifically the corners. on average it is 5/32, i wonder if it ever sealed well with those inconsistencies? Here is a photo to show how inconsistent it is. Closest thing I am seeing online is this: but I imagine it would be quite hard or impossible to squeeze on

Borrowed some calipers to double check! PlexiGlass is definitely 3/16”, fiberglass lip is on average 5/32” but has a pretty uneven thickness

Hello again, we have a heat wave here in the Bay Area so I figured it was a good time to pull one of the windows! Sure did take a while! The original gasket was in fact a locking style rubber one, not sure what they are properly called. the plexiglass window is 3/16” thick, the fiberglass it sits in is mostly and 1/8” thick but gets thicker in the corners to a bit over 3/16 there was no lip on the fiberglass the gasket sits around but given the shape of the frame I think a replacement could sit almost an inch down on the do glass frame before running into problems. The old gasket appears to have sat 5/16” down on the fiberglass frame based on the marks it left. I hope this makes sense! I may need to borrow some calipers to get more precise measurements than I did with a tape measure. Any tips on where to source a replacement would be greatly appreciated! Also I’d be happy to send you a piece of it in the snail mail if you want after I get a new one in. Thanks for the help!

Here’s some pics of the inside, haven’t been able to measure the thickness of the plexi but will when I pull it. Thanks for all the help!

thanks for getting back, I'll take a pic tomorrow when there is light but I did take a peek. Unfortunately there seems to be no locking strip style gasket but rather a one piece thing.

Hello again. I've been chipping away at restoring a 74 chinook I recently bought but am unsure how to fix these leaky "bird's nest" windows. They are curved windows that lack the aluminum frame the other windows have. They install only with a rubber gasket that sits around the fiberglass. It has of course shrunk over the years. I'm hoping to keep the windows rather than glass over them. Any tips are greatly appreciated!

Ended up cleaning up all the connections with a dremel, swapping the battery and disconnecting the old cabin battery from the idolator and the chinook is running! I brought it home yesterday 🙂 Lots of work to do, thank you for the help!

Went and checked it out today. It wont start on its own even with a fully charged battery I brought. Starts great with a jump from a running truck. Alternator is charging up to about 13.5 volts when I check the running voltage on the battery. The strange thing is that when I turn the key to the on position without turning the truck over and the voltage on the battery drops drastically to about 10v on the fully charged bat. I tried this with the owners battery as well and it dropped to about 5v. I tried checking for a parasitic drain by pulling each fuse out one at a time but the voltage drain when you turn the key to on persisted. I also disconnected the second battery and confirmed that the two batteries did not have continuity between them. I'm unsure what is pulling enough voltage to keep the engine from turning over with a charged bat? Any tips are appreciated, I think I'm gonna buy it tomorrow even though it is a can of worms!

Thanks y’all! Gonna check it out tomorrow, wish me luck! Good thought on checking the isolator/bypassing it for now!

Hey y'all, talked to someone with a fairly affordable 74 Chinook for sale near me that I'm hoping to check out tomorrow. They said that the battery will not charge even though they put in a new battery and alternator. I'd have to jump it and drive it for about an hour without stalling or else I could end up stuck on my way home! I do have a few spare batteries I figure I could bring with me in case I stall. I'm fairly versed in the Toyota way since I've owned an 83 pickup for years. I'm brainstorming how to troubleshoot it in case I end up buying it. I figured I'd bring a multi meter to see how many volts the are going to battery when running. I also figure I could pick up a voltage regulator to bring with since I can just return it to O' Reilly if I don't use it. Does the voltage regulator affect charging or rather the voltage going to the components from the battery? There is no second battery in this rig at the moment. I'm also wondering if anyone knows if the second battery completes the charging circuit? Does anyone know what some other likely culprits are for a 74 Chinook that is not charging? Any suggestions are appreciated. Thanks!

Hey y’all! In another attempt to quiet my cab down a bit I put new door seals in. I noticed that the top right corner of my driver side door has a slight gap between it and the frame. When I compare it to the passenger door it’s a significant difference. It kinda bows out. I can’t feel it but the wind is loud next to my head while driving highway speeds! I’m not sure if the door is bent or if the door hinge bushings are worn? I’m trying to track down the right source for some new bushings. Anyone ever deal with this? Ps it’s not exactly an rv but I have a huge camper and find y’all way more helpful than the Yota tech forums! Thanks I’m advance

ToyoGuy: good to know that you had similar rigs without a problem! I've since taken the shell off to see and things are still quite loud. I'm currently putting sound dampening material in the doors and have covered the back wall behind the seat. Hopefully that helps! I'm also searching for a solid rear window but they seem a lil hard to find for a 79 - 83

Thanks for getting back Linda! Not exactly sealed, I tried stuffing a good deal of foam in there to see if it would help with the sound. it didn't seem to make a difference.

Hi folks, Not exactly an RV here but I figured y'all might have more insight than the yotatech people. It is extremely loud in my cab once I hit about 60mph. Like so loud it is hard to hold a conversation or listen to music. I've tried putting sound proofing under the carpet to no avail. It feels like the sound is right behind my head but I don't feel any wind getting into the cab. I'm wondering if im hearing the sound of wind hitting the flat surfaces of my camper shell. Have any of you run into similar issues with your rv's that have flat surfaces facing forward like my shell does? Anyone have any suggestions or experience with diy wind fairings? Thanks in advance Nick

I see, I assume mine is 3.73 since it’s a standard 2wd pickup. Maybe an upgrade is in the future. Do you think loosening the kick down cable help me stay in higher gears longer? I’m hoping to try some easier adjustments before I dive into a rebuilt. My fluid level is good and luckily my leak is gone thanks to a speedi sleeve and the bushing replacement this forum helped me figure out.

Hey y'all. My truck isn't really a motor home but rather a 1983 longbed with a camper shell on it but I've had much better luck finding information on the A43D transmission from this forum. I've got a problem with my rig where it likes to kick down on the highway way too soon. I'll be going about 50 mph on flat ground and want to speed up a little but when I do the truck goes into either 3rd or second (i can't tell which) and seems to redline rather than accelerate. I won't be able to go any faster because the gear appears to be maxed out. This leads to the truck running hot and wasting gas. I'm a pretty passive driver who takes it slow and accelerates slowly. When it does hold gear the truck maintains a solid 65 or even 70 without getting too hot. If it was a dolphin or something I wouldn't expect to get to 65 mph with all that weight but its just a truck with a shell. I'd like to be able to stay in overdrive when I'm on flat ground to maintain highway speeds. I've already done the overdrive solenoid bypass mod so I know its not an issue with that. I'm a little confused about the function of the kickdown cable here. I found this on the Toyota mini forum: "The A43D runs on that cable to read throttle position and the governor inside the tailshaft housing. When you tighten the cable, it'll read more throttle than it should, thinking it should be in a lower gear. you should loosen the cable so it reads less throttle than it does *now*, allowing it to upshift" If this is true could I just loosen my kick-down cable so that I can stay in 3rd or overdrive and thus maintain highway speeds? Thanks for the help and all the info on my other post 🙂

Hello again, after battling a rounded bolt on my transmission mount I was able to pull my extension housing, replace the bushing and seal, put a Speedi sleeve on the worst part of the yoke and put it all back together. Only time will tell if it leaks. Here’s the problem though. There is no oil tube in my extension housing. At first I thought it was missing but it appears there is no passage for it to fit into the extension housing. I lined up the bushing with the hole in the same place for this theoretical oil passage to flow to but the surface where the bushing fits has no holes for fluid to travel through. Im wondering if the earlier models didn’t have this tube? I’m assuming the grooves in the bushing are the only way fluid flows to yoke? That or a previous owner or mechanic really messed up. My truck is an 83 longbed

Anyone know if the driveshaft on an 84 dually sunraider is the standard two part or not? Someone is parting one out in my area. https://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/pts/d/oakland-1984-toyota-pickup-sunrader-22r/6965952937.html

Thanks Linda, I may have to go on a lil pick and pull trip this weekend. i just dropped the driveshaft of an 87 at the Richmond pic n pull today but unfortunately both the yoke and shaft were too long

Thanks for all the replies, a new bushing and seal is in the mail. Here’s what I’m working with yoke wise, unfortunately I’m pretty sure a speedy sleeve wouldn’t sit where the scoring is. There arent a lot of 79-83 pickups coming through pick n pull here in the Bay Area and the 84 and up models seem to use driveshafts/yokes with smaller holes for the u joint caps. Spent a good deal of time searching and went to a driveshaft shop who said the combination u joint I would need doesn’t exist. I guess I could try to pull half of the two part driveshaft on a later model and swap that with mine. It’d be a bit pricy but then I could use the later yoke that is still available

Not a bad idea Donny! My own lathe is a little sketchy but maybe I can find someone odyssey: that is wild! Is it an a43d? If so where is that located?

It’s not terrible but definitely scored. I replaced the rear output seal three times and still have the dreaded transmission leak to the point of loosing 4th after an hour or two on the highway. Right now I have to top it off weekly for city driving. I’m hoping to do a new bushing, yoke and seal all at the same time if I can track one down.