neilp
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Posts posted by neilp
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I just saw this thread, I'm in Austin as well. Let me know if you want to get together some time and compare campers!
I also found water damage in the over cab area after I got my purchase home (this was three years ago). I had it repaired by an RV shop although they did not do a great job it is now solid. More recently I had a leak around the front window which was repaired at the same place but it leaked again weeks later and they refused to stand behind the repair. So I took it to another shop. So far so good! I think we are in a constant battle to stop the leaks on these old things. I had mine resealed all around when they did the last window repair so hopefully I am good for sometime to come. I usually do most of my own mechanical repairs but sealing the RV is one thing I prefer to pay others to do! Nothing looks worse than one of my caulk jobs !!
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I have a similar age Itasca Spirit (same as the Winnebago Warrior) and had a similar issue with the side window a few weeks ago. I could not find anyone here in Austin who would replace the glass. I used a sheet of plexiglass (acrylic I think?) from Home Depot and with a lot of care cut it to size myself. I think this may end up being the permanent repair as it looks the same and is weather proof. The window no longer opens but I have never opened that window! I hope your repair works out for you!
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Drooling here. I'd also love to learn more about the cost, if you don't mind sharing!
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I installed the AirLift air bags with the jounce bumper (their part number 88113). I have no complaints, they work well and I like not having to worry about the air bags losing pressure over time and getting damaged if there's no air in them. I've experimented with the pressures a little and usually run them at about 60psi. I carry a small Ryobi air pump so that I can also use them when camping for bit of levelling help.
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I'd be tempted to disconnect the winch - unlikely but possible that the armature is shorting.
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On 4/9/2022 at 3:50 PM, Maineah said:
Austin isn't exactly small! There has got to be some one there that can cut and temper glass!
Unfortunately it's also a boom town right now. Everyone can pick and choose the work that they want, and charge extra for what they do take on. It's very hard to find staff and the construction trades are all booked months out, some through next year. All the glass places are super busy and no one even wanted to talk to me once I mentioned "RV" ...
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On 4/9/2022 at 4:43 PM, linda s said:
What is your total window measurement? It's a slider right? Can I see a pic? Maybe I can find a replacement for the whole thing at a reasonable price. I'm pretty good at finding things
Linda S
Hi Linda,
Best I can tell the window opening is 26.5" high x 30" wide. I've done some extensive googling and not found a replacement as yet!
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17 hours ago, linda s said:
Did it break into shards or rounded bits. Plexiglass will work for sure but try this
Tempered Glass | RV, Motorhome, Camper | Custom Glass Solutions (rvglassparts.com)
When you fill out the form make a note that you can send a pattern. Of course you will have to make a pattern but shouldn't be too hard. Lots of other places online that make safety glass too. Find the best price.
Linda S
Thanks for this Linda, it looks like a good option. The window was tempered glass, and broke into tiny pieces, like the old toughened windshields did.
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I've called all the glass places near here no one will do it. Very frustrating... Not sure what the next step is. Get some glass and give it a try myself? Or some Perspex or acrylic?
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Somehow over night one of the side sliding windows got broken... Of course nothing was picked up on my security cameras. It is the window over the dinette area.
Does anyone know how best to get a replacement? can a local glass place make one to fit or do I need to order it? Can you just get the glass or will I have to replace the whole frame assembly?
Thanks for any info.
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12 hours ago, thewanderlustking said:
I didn’t see this mentioned, but there is one possible gotcha on these old Toyotas. Make sure when you are testing the battery and alternator right after you’ve started the vehicle, that you rev it up a little bit to make the battery light and brake light go out. I would assume that you know this, because you’ve been out on the road with it, but just in case…
I didn’t know this and I potentially replaced a perfectly good alternator when I first got mine.
Agreed - this is why I suggested running the running at 2000 + rpm. All alternators produce less output at low rpm. I would do the tests that I outlined, check the belt as suggested, and ensure that the alternator is well grounded (test for continuity between battery -ve and the alternator body)
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I'd start by testing the alternator. With the engine running at (or above) 2000 rpm you should see 14.4v (+/- about 0.2v) across each of the batteries. If either or both batteries are at 14.4v the alternator is OK. If only one is at 14.4v the isolator looks to be faulty or a wiring issue.
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I have never had to work on the Toyota's tranny but on other brands I have had to replace vacuum lines to the transmission when the shifting was not working correctly. I'd check any vacuum lines going to the transmission.
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I've had trouble finding shops that can balance the late model 6 lug wheels due to the size of the aperture in the center of the wheel - they need an adapter for the spin balancer that is larger enough so they can clamp the wheel properly. But generally as stated most shops seem reluctant to do tire work on them. Ironically the local Walmart is the one place I found that would! They did us a regular jack in the parking lot as noted above.
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Quick update: I tried the closest sized o-rings that were at Home Depot. No good, the "plunger" piece would not go back into the valve body no matter how hard I tried. The new o-rings are only a gnat's bollock hair bigger than the originals but that seems to be sufficient to stop them from working. So I did my best to reinvigorate the original o-rings with hot water to make them usable and reassembled the valve.
After practicing a few cuss words I found that the reassembled valve now worked in reverse - down is sealed and up is draining. A bit baffling but I'll take it as it no longer leaks.
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I just tried pushing one down and popped out under the camper very easily. However I should have thought to release the water pressure first!! I'm off in search of o-rings now so any advice on the size is still appreciated.
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Also if anyone has the sizes of the required o-rings that would be awesome!
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My camper has leaking low point drain valves - the ones under the couch that pull up to drain the fresh water tank and the lines. When I first got my camper 3 years ago I replaced the other two that are under the stove area with different ones which was a big job with shark bit fittings etc.
I have since read about replacing the o-rings but I'm not sure how thevalves come apart? I recall that you remove the metal loop and push them through the floor? I've searched the forum and the net but cannot find the answer!
TIA
Neil
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You may find this link useful: https://www.bestconverter.com/Magnetek-Upgrade_ep_26-1.html
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I replaced my convertor. Mine came with a 6332 convertor which I replaced with a PD4635 I did not need to extend any wires it is straight wire for wire replacement and took less than an hour. The new convertor came with an upgraded 12v panel, the 115v panel was reused. The new convertor will maintain the house battery without over charging as did the original. I now need a new house battery as the one I have was ruined by the old convertor!
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2 hours ago, Maineah said:
I have seen vertical mount carriers for RV's!
I was heading in that direction until she got the folding one. Folding is much easier and I can still use my bicycle rack on the back!
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My girlfriend is a keen kayaker, and we discussed many options to carry her kayak on the Toymo, but never came up with te right solution. She bought a folding kayak (https://foldupkayaks.com/) and has been pleased with it - to the point where her "real" kayak is up for sale. The folding one fits nicely in the kitchen area when travelling and while not quite as capable as a regular kayak, it does the job well enough.
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I'm considering removing mine as well (same model) It works but the exhaust leaks and needs replacement - I'm reluctant to spend $$ on it as I never use it. Will you carry a generator in the future? What are you using the space for?
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Hooray!
Location To Check Alternator Output
in Electrical
Posted · Edited by neilp
I am late to this but I just read through the thread.
Voltage goes up when resistance goes up (V=IR). So you have a bad connection somewhere causing high resistance and voltage increase. From the testing that you have done that connection is on the house battery terminal of the isolator, probably the internal contact, but maybe worth cleaning the external connection as it is easy. Maybe check the resistance in the positive line to the house battery from the isolator. I suspect that if you replace the isolator and you will be good IMHO.