McShank

I remember seeing this Lexus conversion last year when it was in progress. I think he had some problems with overheating and figuring a way to fit a large enough radiator. One picture from his post shows an electric fan mounted on a transmission cooler somewhere underneath, which tells me he had no room for it in front of the radiator. I too became interested in conversions after I saw his Lexus but I found the best way to go would be a Vortec 4.3L V-6 with matching auto trans. Toyota 4X4 rockcrawlers use these conversions often, lots of torque to power our campers up the hills, and Downey makes many bolt-in parts like larger radiators and motor mounts. There is a lot of info out there, including step-by-step manuals. There is also an outfit in Florida that specializes in S-10 and Blazer parts, with complete motor-trans packages with all wiring and computers still intact and prices well below $2000 for motors with mileages between 25,000 and 75,000. Check Ebay motors to see their listing. If I ever croak my 22RE or transmission I'll be looking for a Vortec conversion.

It's a transfer system with the 30 amp cord running directly inside the transfer box. Hard wires run from there to the AC side of the converter. I'm going camping next weekend and if everything still works fine at the campground plugging the 30 amp cord into shore power I'll scratch my head once more and when back home just run the extension cord directly into the converter plug. Thanks Maineah for your interest. McShank

The extension cord is new with factory ends. I can't get the motorhome close enough to the house to try plugging directly, but the outside house outlet is on a GFI circuit that includes an interior bathroom. And all the breakers are off inside. So I agree that this should not have any effect. Before I switched the converter this same extension cord and outlet would not trip the breaker. A true puzzle.

I can use an informed opinion on a little electrical mystery. I installed the recommended converter upgrade in my Sunrader and everything worked great plugged in at the campground, including the AC. When I parked at home I tried running a heavy 15 amp extension cord and 15/30 adaptor to the 30 amp service line to keep the rv battery charged, but my home circuit breaker triped when I pluged it in. This is with no loads on the system. However if I run the extension cord inside and plug it directly into the back of the converter the circuit breaker does not trip and the battery remains charged. The only thing in between the converter and the service cord is a "transfer switch" box to tie in the onboard generator. This situation makes no sense to me at all. I'm not quite sleepless over this but would like to better understand if 15 amp service gets lost in the 30 amp cord. Any help is appreciated. McShank '88 21' Sunrader in Arizona

I saw a 6 lug axle listed on Phoenix's Craig's list today - 1/28 - says it fits 86-95 - ad #554270558 - asking price $150 - phone #541-326-9676. Hope this helps.

Check out the Engines-Transmissions section in these Forums and look up top for a pinned topic "axle facts". Also, a few years ago I had a 18' Dolphin with a 20R and it was a complete dog. My 21' Sunrader has a fuel injected 22RE and there is a big difference in the power.

futar; Thanks for the input. Advance Adapters and Downey are two other companies that make hardware to do a swap like this. I found someone who specializes in Chevy S10 parts including complete pull outs with all the original computers, harnesses, etc. They listed a 2004 Vortec + trans with 60K miles on it for $1500 plus shipping a few weeks ago. One or two pull outs show up every week. I like the idea of not having to match up Toyota trans or computers with a GM engine, but I don't know if the problems with fitting it into the Toyota compartment have more to do with 4X4's. I do know swapping will always bring some unforseen problems to overcome. I don't get to use my Sunrader very often and might never have to decide to replace the 22RE but sometimes daydreams come true. McShank

My '88 22re Sunrader might just run forever, however if the day comes when I have serious engine or trans problems I will want to swap in a V6 and matching trans. Twenty-five years ago I put a Capri V6 in a VW Camper and thought I had learned my lesson about changing stock set-ups, but I can't stop dreaming about getting more power in my Sunrader. There is a lot of info out there, much of it pertaining to 4X4 rock crawlers and the two most recommended choices are the Buick 3.8L with 700R4 auto trans or a GM Vortec 4.3L with 4L60E. I found good sources for complete pull outs with original wiring, alternators, ac compressors, computers, harnesses etc. Mounting hardware, headers and drop in radiators are available but there seem to be some clearance issues for oil pan, distributor and suspension travel, particularly with the 4.3, that require a lift kit or other modifiactions. I wonder if some of the problems would be found only in a 4X4 truck and not with a motorhome. I'm not looking to race it, just have great pulling power on hills and at high altitude so I don't incite road rage from those behind me. Has anyone out there done one of these? Any major pains doing the swap or unforseen issues? Did mpg go down or stay the same? Problems with Dept. of Motor Vehicles registration or emissions? I'd love to hear from anyone experienced with these swaps. McShank

I have a Kohler 2.5 that wouldn't start. I removed the carb and had it cleaned, started right up and runs smooth. Only problem I have now is that I cannot find the metal plate which mounts on top of the carb and intake manifold and secures the air filter and choke cable. If your 2.5 is heading for the junk pile would you part with that mounting plate? McShank

Geysergazers; I put 1748 miles on my '88 Sunrader 21' 22RE Auto from Phoenix through the mountains of s.w. Colorado and back home and kept records of each fill up. I used 110.32 gallons which works out to almost 16 mpg. I kept my cruising speed between 55 and 60, a few times a little faster, and tried to be gentle on the gas pedal. I speed up some before any long grade but once it slowed enough to strain a little I down shift and run 2nd about 45 mph and 25 in first over the highest elevation passes. Even with 120K on the motor she runs great. I think anyone who gets terrible mileage could have a heavy foot and be trying to get too much out of the little beast or it could need to be hooked up to some test equipment to see if some sensor or other mystery component needs attention.

My '88 Sunrader 22RE Auto shifts out of overdrive when climbing at about 3700' elevation and kicks back in below 3300'. I put around 2200 miles in the mountains of Colorado last fall, all of it with no od, went over 4 passes of 11000'+ and still got 15.9 mpg. The od kicked back in one hour from my home in the Arizona desert. I had read there is a way to override this feature but once I figured the mileage I decided to leave the Toyota engineering alone. I was impressed with how well this motor chugged over the passes but still daydream about putting in a V6 so I wouldn't hold up traffic behind me so much on sustained grades. But 16 mpg is great and I wonder how much my mileage would change with a V6. My next long trip won't be until next spring so my daydreaming will continue.

I just returned from our first overnight and on the way back I noticed a new detail from the vibration problem. It still has the vibration at different speeds depending on how much gas I give it. But while going downhill at about 60 I wanted to give a break to the rpm's (no overdrive at higher altitude) and when I slid the trans into N the fibration became constant. I put it back in D and the vibration went away. It happens at all speeds over 57. Smokepolehall, if you see this let me know if this sounds like a particular part of the diff that's worn out. It goes to the mechanic Tuesday and hopefully a repair.

Thank you Smokepolehall. This is a great way to learn how to keep our old Toyota Rv's alive. I got my first chance to take the Sunrader up towards Flagstaff to see how well it could climb. As I held a constant speed in either D or 2 the vibration seems to happen depending on how much gas I give it; less gas and it goes away (and I lose speed) and more gas it gets quieter even though the mph remains the same. Its like a specific power range of torque gets something shaking, more or less torque it goes away, and I think its coming from the transmission end. I'm sure I'm not explaining this very well but I very much appreciate your input. My mechanic had replaced 2 cv's at the same time he replaced the carrier bearing and had the drive shaft rebalanced. I'll have him check the trans seal bearing next. Also, I had read in Forums about my overdrive kicking out at altitude. Sure enough mine went out at 3700' and did not return until I got back down to 3200'. I need to re-read all info about this to find a way to override the cutout. I would rather use my judgement so I could decend slight grades in OD and give the screaming engine a break while still shifting back to D or 2 for climbing and rolling flats. My entire upcoming vacation will be spent above 4000' roaming around western Colorado. McShank

I recently purchased an '88 Sunrader 21' with auto/od transmission. Once my speed reaches 60 mph or I am climbing a hill there is a vibration in the drive line; if I remove my foot from the gas pedal it goes away and resumes as I give it gas again. It is not noticable under 50 mph. I had the carrier bearing replaced and the drive shaft rebalanced but this vibration remains and I don't want to give a mechanic permission to try a shotgun approach to replacing more parts. The transmission shifts smoothly. Can anyone give me advice on what things to check before I leave on my first 2000 mile trip into the mountains of Colorado?