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sunvader

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Posts posted by sunvader

  1. Thanks for the tips. Which one would be the stronger seal to use? My front centre pillar is bulging a bit, because my window is not seated in properly. Leaves me to think that the plexi does bear some weight and the strongest seal would be best.

    One other question, Is the Fibreglass on that sunrader Painted White? I was thinking of having mine painted. Is that recommended at all?

  2. BlingFree, The truck was found in Toronto.

    The swap is now done. A couple of curveballs were encountered. Basically I made a deal with the mechanic and I traded the U-Haul truck for the work and we both thought that front axles were interchangable. Well they weren't. The mechanic said it would take a day to do the job for both front and rear (This was a 2 way swap). However, with the front not being done it still took a whole day and I kept my word and gave him the U-Haul. The rear leaf spring mounts were widened and the U-bolt/shock mounting plates were modified. The bolt pattern on the drive shaft also had to be modified. The only solution for the front wheels as everybody knows was the 5 - 6 bolt front wheel adapters which costed $500 including duties and brokerage fees shipped to Canada ($360 before shipping). Then I had to buy 2 rims since the U-Haul need to keep them for the front, so I bought 4 anyway ($270 for 4 rims from Toyota).

    PLEASE note everyone. The guy in California, Custom Wheel Design that sold me the adapters also sells rims for $130 which is crazy. Toyota sells them for $60 each... yes Toyota! Which makes me think how overpriced the adapters are, but then again there is no other option on the adapters.

    So the swap costed me $770 plus the cost of the U-Haul $1100.

    My next problem is fixing the curved front plexi-glass which seems to have shifted and causing leaks. shandamac I see you have a pillar in the front of your RV avoiding the curved glass, which seems better in preventing the plexi from popping out. Was that a modification?

  3. Would anybody else like a copy? Just PM me your email.

    I will automatically send you the U.S. version unless you specify the Canadian version.

    The good thing is that it allows you to keep an electronic log of your trips.

  4. On my 18' 1980 Sunradar (78 Chassis) and a 20R motor. I am averaging 14.5 MPG with 3 people and gear. Does this Sound Right?

    To calculate this I'm using an excel sheet I created. I thought that maybe I can share this with you folks. I initially created it for Litres/100 Km, so I made one for you folks South of the border.

    I just Realized I'm not allowed to upload an excel sheet. Any ideas?

  5. I am just completing my 5 - 6 Bolt 1 ton conversion on my 78 Sunrader and I thought I'd reward myself in buying the Stainless Wheel simulators that were available on eBay from wheelsimulators.com. As my luck would have it, the seller sold his last set last week and has no plans to have anymore made unless he has an order of 25 or more. :thumbdown:

    If anyone here has these simulators and would like to sell them, please send me a message. Also, if you know about someone selling them.

    This really sucks. :ranting2:

    post-1062-1214868777_thumb.jpg

  6. Hi Folks,

    Well, the time has come to do my conversion.

    I bought a 1989 Toyota 1 ton cube truck from U-Haul as the doner vehicle.

    I'm guessing, I will have all the parts needed and a garden shed for my wife.

    The other good part about having the whole truck is that I will have a serial number for parts on the axle.

    Recipient: 1980 Sunrader on a 1978 chassis.

    Do the Spring mount pads need relocating?

    Is the U-bolt/Shock mount too narrow, If so, can the old ones be salvaged and put in place?

    I also would like to swap the front axle as well. Does anyone know what is required, is it just the hub that needs swapping?

    Parking Brake?

    All help would be greatly appreciated.

    post-1062-1209051136_thumb.jpg

    post-1062-1209051162_thumb.jpg

  7. Simple questions, complex answers........

    The most compatible axles will be 1986-1988. Later axles will use wider springs and different spring mount plates and require some extra fiddling.

    Your vertical shocks will not work with the new axle U-bolt plates as from 1984 on the shocks were mounted front and rear of the axle not directly above to the cross member. What I did was to purchase some 1988 4x4 upper shock mounts (they go on the top of the frame) and weld them on to the frame (I have a 1981).

    I went with 456:1 gearing (not a Toyota option so no point looking for this as a standard gearing). 410:1 would be best if you have that choice. The lower the gear ratio the better.

    I doubt that you will be able to adequately pull a boat unless you change out your engine for a V-6 or better yet a US made V-8 the 22R (and yours is probably a carb engine) is underpowered to pull the motor home and when you add a lot more weight to drag around you will over tax things more. You may get away with it for a little while if you have a 4 or 5 speed gear box but an auto will over heat on you and leave you, your motor home, and boat somewhere where you don't expect to be.

    If you feel that you must pull a boat I would highly recommend that you look into one of the Chevy V-8 engine/trans refit kits. http://www.downeyoff-road.com/EngineCompon...ersionKits.html

    I have a 4 speed. I'm not big on engine upgrades, I would have bought a ford or GMC motorhome if that was the case. Maybe a 22RE, but I think I'll see how it goes with the axle upgrade. So what you are saying is that even an 88 axle will require some modifications to install it? Would a 410 have a lower top speed then a 390?

  8. Hi Folks,

    I plan on changing the 5 bolt rear axle on my 1980 18' Sunrader (1978 Toyota Chassis). In my search for a rear 6 bolt dual wheel axle I have the option of a 3:90 or a 4:10. Does it matter which rear axle I choose. The reason for the change is obviously the recall, however I do need the capacity to tow a boat that is about 1200 lbs (boat motor and trailer) with 100 lbs tongue weight.

    The questions:

    3:90 or 4:10 (does it matter)?

    Does it matter which year the doner truck is, given that it is a 1987 - 1993?

    Pending the year, will this axle just bolt on?

    Any tips?

    Thanks in advance!

  9. You are correct, it's the coach builder that determines the year. However it is important to know what year your chassis is for parts orders from toyota. I figured this out today since my toyota was the year before a redesign.

    So...

    Chassis 1978

    Built 1979

    Registered as a 1980

    I was looking into getting a grille. I told the dealer that it's the 2 piece grille from a 1979. He said there is no 2 piece grill for that year. That's when we figured out that it is actually a 1978 chassis.

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