kevinchinook
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Posts posted by kevinchinook
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Thanks ya'll. I'm gonna give it a shot doing it myself.
The springs have settled a little. My camper is completely gutted right now so hopefully it will lose an inch or so in ride height after I build it out.
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Finally got the new leaf springs, pins, bushings and shackles installed. Mac's Spring Shop in San Bernardino did the work and they did great work, and Jesse the owner gave me some goodnight insight into what to do next to the rig.
New springs haven't settled yet but already the ride is so much smoother!
He did mention it would best if I replaced the brake lines. Are these the same as the regular Toyota pickups?
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I recently replaced these gaskets on my sunrader adventure. I used trim-lok products. I ordered bulbs that were about 1/4-1/2" bigger than the ones I removed. The fiberglass portions the trim attached to was not a consistent width so I just found something close in the channel size and made it work.
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I've been looking as well. "The Lifeproof" stuff at Home Depot seems highly regarded in reviews. Given the small footprint the cost doesn't seem too extreme for the nicer stuff. It's what I'm leaning towards using in mine.
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Pretty nice!!!
A few years ago there was someone in LA area selling a mint condition chinook. Wish I would have bought it they were only asking around 10k
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4 hours ago, Morgan Sellgren said:
kevinchinook...where in socal are you? I'd love to see your rig sometime if you are fairly close to me. Trying to see as many of these rigs as I can during my search. If I end up with a 4 banger should I make sure it is a manual? Especially in a 21 footer. I havn't driven any yet but I would think the auto would be extremely uninspiring. I suppose manually shifting it would help keep ideal rpm's.
I'm in the Inland Empire but cruise the rig to San Diego now and then. My sunrader is a pop-top so a bit different than most. I wanted a manual but mine has the automatic. Its been good to me ever since I turned off OD. I think with the extra weight of the 21+ footer the manual would be much more helpful going up grades. Highly recommend you look underneath all of the rigs you potentially buy. Check the window and door seals. Almost every rig I called about when I was looking the owner said they didn't leak but every single one obviously had
Some other models to consider but are much rarer are the Sandtana and Bandit. Sandtana's have a tilt top roof and a huge rear window.
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mnkywrench. setup craigslist alerts and check frequently. socal does get postings for sunraiders
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$8000 sounds cheap for an engine swap but way too much to put into something like this. I have the 22re in my Sunrader(18ft pop-top) and it actually gets up and goes better than I expected. Uphill is less inspiring but if you're going to pay $8000 to swap the engine why not pay 20k and have someone cut the shell off and remount it to an early 2000s truck? There are even shops that specialize in this now.
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I generally drive close to 2000 miles a month in my Subaru. From LA to San Bernadino to San Diego to Orange County. I've taken my Sunrader around town and on a couple of 180 miles round trips. Ever since the pandemic drivers have been crazy in SoCal. Aggressive, speeding, tail gating, no one uses turn signals, road rage. It's increased 10X since a couple of years ago. Has anyone else felt drivers have lost their minds since Covid?
It's making me intimidated to drive my slow, no airbags, no safety features Sunrader on any serious trips. I added bright LED taillights to the back, additional marker lights, extra mirrors.
What are you experienced motorhomers safe driving tips?
Thanks.
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I needed a driver's side and was able to get off of ebay for $40. Which I still think was overpriced given the condition. I would just try to recondition your current ones.
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On 4/23/2021 at 11:11 AM, kevinchinook said:
Thank you! I ordered the springs from 4wheelparts for curbside pickup. Hopefully will have them installed in a couple of weeks along with new bushings. Still need to measure the shackle bolts and order them ahead time as I have a feeling the current ones won't be usable after removal.
Still can't figure out how to get the spare tire to drop and neither could the guys at the tire shop. For all we can tell access to drop is blocked by the rear bumper which is welded to the frame.
Just dropping an update for other users to use caution when ordering from 4wheelparts. Ordered my springs back in April and they are still back-ordered. Summit racing got them to my doorstop in 3 days. Smog check next monday and then off to the spring shop on tuesday for install.
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Hi Willy,
Care to share pics of your interior? I purchased the rig in the OP and I'm just about ready to renovate the interior. The stock interior looked good on the surface but rodents had made nests in every single interior cavity so I gutted it. Thanks.
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I've been toying with the idea of adding these:
https://activesuspension.com/products/kits/1986-2004-toyota-pickup-2wd/
I'm going to wait until I have my new leaf springs and bushings installed before I spend the extra money. Youtube reviews seem to be very positive of these on pickup trucks hauling or towing.
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Thanks Linda! I'm hoping!
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Sway-a-way has been recommended here before. I can't seem to find them in stock anywhere.
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Yes, I have a rear sway bar on my rig. Bushings are shot and they are getting replaced along with the leaf springs and bushings. This thing just feels and handles so sketchy driving through the canyons. I'm worried I'm going to get rear-ended driving so slow. After I get the leaf springs installed I'll white knuckle it again and see if I should spring for the roadmaster kit. It is expensive but they have a 30-day refund police so it *might* be enough time to throw it on and see if it drives $500 better and return it if the difference is minimal.
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I'm very close to pulling the trigger on these. I'm going to wait until my new leafs and bushings are installed and see how she handles after that.
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Paint looks cool. I'll take some pics tomorrow of how the canvas attaches. On the chinook it's just stapled and glued
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Mine is a 1986 Sunrader Adventure. 22re with the auto transmission. I try to stay at 55 for the most part.
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Cubs Mod Shop in Colorado
and Elevated Overland both have done some impressive Chinook/Sunrader swaps onto new trucks.
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4 hours ago, lansisco said:
I do as well. They have about 4k miles on them and look nearly new. The crazy part was how much stiffer they were than the car tires someone had put on before me. I looked them up and they went on things like pontiac grand am etc.
The tires on my rig when I first picked it up were 8+ years old. I dont remember the size but they weren't D-rated like my current ones. They had decent tread and looked okay and I drove it from Norcal to Socal overnight with no issues. Looked up the date code a few days later and feel blessed I made it. Hankooks have been great, I have maybe put a couple thousand miles on mind and they look new. Started with 55 psi when I had them installed and 19 months later they were all hovering 45-50 psi without a single air fill inbetween.
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So far I have had these parts installed/serviced by my local mechanic:
New Hankook RA18 Tires
KYB Shocks Front/Rear
Inner Tie Rod
Outer Tie Rod End
Rack & Pinion
Idler Arm
Center LinkRear Dif
Wheel Bearings
BrakesUp next is:
Leaf springs, bushings (ARB CS010R and Prothane bushings)
Engine top-end rebuild with LCE dual row timing chain.
Engine runs and sounds decent but being 35 years old and with a somewhat unknown maintenance history I want the peace of mind having it serviced thoroughly.
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I figured I would start a thread to post the progress of my Sunrader Adventure. Currently waiting for leaf springs and timing chain kit so I started tackling some exterior projects.
The mirrors that came on this rig were garbage: small, short, rusted, wobbly and worn. I took the dual mirrors and brackets off my chinook to swap over and decided I didn't like the chrome so painted everything black and bought new mirror glass from Velvac. Currently waiting for the paint to dry before re-installing. Also bought new stainless steel hardware. The zinc coated steel hardware was rusting. Acorn nuts are expensive but look better than the standard nuts and bolts.
I have 2 brand new grey 6.5" Velvac mirror gaskets if anyone wants them. Free just make a $2-3 donation to a charity(preferably ocbpc.org) in lieu of covering shipping.
1985 Sun-lander express
in Engines - Transmissions - Drive Train - Suspension - Chassis - Steering - Exhaust - Tires - Etc.
Posted
As others have said check the fuse first. After replacing the fuse if the taillights still dont work use a multi-meter to check their functionality before buying bulbs. If they work but just need new bulbs you can try that. I converted my rear taillights to Bargman LEDS. Very good upgrade and highly recommended.