Gulfstream Greg

Just happened apon this company that sell electric super chargers with a proven dyno test of 10 horsepower increase. I would like that. Any how check it out for yourself SUPER CARGER.

Hi Nathan and welcome to the group here Your probably not going to find many at that low price. If the interior is in good shape then it could be a sweet deal. Not sure about an engine swap though. I don't know enough about those engines and if they would just bolt in. If you went with a fuel injecteted engine you would also have to change out the gas tank to one with a fuel pump inside it. I think I have seen some wire kits for doing the electrical conversion. Certainly dropping a 22r in would be much easier. There are lots of those engines in the wrecking yards that can be had for cheap. Best though to find one that is running so that you can have a listen. The truth is even newer really low milage rigs usually have a lot of work to be done on them. There is always something that needs attention or upgrading. Tires are one of the big payouts. Cost a lot of money and you never wear them out. They get old and die first. 10 years for tires is about max.

I think it depends on the length of the coach. If its an 18 foot Sunrader it may be the stock frame. If anything the frame would have to be made longer in the tail and maybe beefed up some. Also you would need to put a 1 ton full floating rear axle on the truck as the stock rear ends are not strong enough even for the short 18 foot sunraders. I have a 1986 4x4 sunrader and to me the frame looks like it has been beefed up in many areas. Should be a fairly easy task with the bed off.

I have a sunrader owners manual posted in the gallery it can be found here Sunrader Owners Manual. If you check it out you will see that many things like locations of valves just are not in the manual. It tends to cover general operations and safety. You may be able to find a manual for the truck chassis for that year thru ebay or even a chiltons repair manual but as far as finding something specific for the rv coach that may be very hard to find. I will say if you do, and you are willing, I would very much like to be able to post a reproduction here. What I found with my 86 Sunrader is that I had ti discover many things myself. I crawled underneath and saw a pipe with a cap on it, but had no idea what it was. Sometime later I pulled (removed the screws) plywood cover under the dining area passenger seat and found a valve that was hooked into the fresh water tank. It was the pipe that I saw underneath that was capped off. It was actually a drain to drain the tank. So long story short is I have all the original documentation, even the bill of sales for my rig. There is a big portion of stuff that just has to be discovered. No documentation, no manual etc. I found valves on water lines inside a compartment that probably turns off the water supply to the shower but I have not tested it, no mention of this valve in the owners manual. So I hate to say it but much of it is left to discovery. Greg

Hi Paul and welcome to the group here. There is some documentation such as refrigerator heater etc type manuals in the files section of the gallery. You may find that a manual even for a different year or model appliance will still give you the information. Certain appliance models were used by many coach builders for several years. Greg

When parring batteries they should be equal. All ratings should be identical. Also batteries should never go into a boiling state. A thorough check of your charging system should be done or you will quickly destroy your new batteries. As for choice thats up in the air. What ever size and capacity deep cycle your pocket book can afford. Prices vary from the 40 dollar range for lead acid to well over 200 dollars for AGM batteries. AGM are of course better suited foe RV use but the price is steep. Also for AGM you definitely want a state of the art charging system and a battery isolator and not a solenoid when charging from the alternator.

I got new tires awhile back. After I left the tire shop (Big O) I was driving thru a parking lot real slow and there was this clunk clunk clunk sound in sync with the revolution of my tires. I could hear that it was coming from the rear passenger somewhere. I got out and looked at everything but could see nothing. My first thought of course was that they did not torque the lug nuts on properly. I did not have a torque wrench with me so I bought one and re torqued the lugs. The noise continued. Did I mention this was the day before we were leaving on a week trip. At home which is 20 plus miles from Big O I jack up the rear and remove the suspect wheels. What I find is that the emergency brake cable that goes from the frame to the wheel assembly is rubbing on the rim. The clunk clunk noise is a new wheel weight hitting the cable. So I put it all back together and found that I could finagle the cable away from the rim. But lots of corners or using the emergency brake put it right back against the wheel. So it looks like I have to lengthen that cable housing. There is no way to create a way to tie it back with a bungy cord as the muffler is right there. I have not yet checked wit Toyota to see if there is a longer cable housing. There must be some available for all the jacked up 4x4 pickups on the road.

Hi Susan There are two things that will make them buzz. I am going to assume you have a 6300 series converter. One is the transformer itself, the windings become loose and then they vibrate some which can cause a hum or buzzing sound. Most likely though it is the solenoid. When you plug into shore power the solenoid automatically engages. Its powered by the 120 volt AC side. They have probably buzzed since day one. Its purpose is to switch the 12 volt DC coach battery offline except for the charger and switch the 12 vdc appliances and lights to the 12 vdc supplied by the inverter. The solenoid is really not reparable and usually must be replaced with no guarantee that the buzzing will go away. There is also the possibility that it has come loose and is causing a buzz but I dought it. My 6300 series stopped charging my battery correctly. It over charged then under charged. The 6300 series inverters also have a lot of ac voltage on the dc circuit side which is very bad for any thing electronic that you might run on the 12 volt side when plugged into shore power. So after I had to replace my battery I took the 6300 out and replaced it with a 7345RU Retrofit. Click on the link and you can see some photos of the old and new parts. Here is another thread where I did some tests on the 7345ru Thread PS In your post I noticed that the emoticon was not showing. What I figured out is that you might have dragged it into the windw. All you have to do is click on which ever one you want and it will automaticly place it self in the text. I fixed the one you had entered. Greg

Scott You probably saw my post in the yahoo group but I'll duplicate it here. The lights draw very little amperage, 5 milla amps I think. I have a couple more and plan to remove the flourescent fixture that is left and replace it with a cathode. I am going to put together a housing for it. I have even thought of putting one in the refrigerator. One noticable thing is that they are bright when you first power them on but get brighter after a few seconds. The color temp is close to a cool white from a flourescent but a tad warmer. I'll take a pic of the stove and sink lights tonight and post the pics.

What does it smell like? Could be a dead rodent somewhere. Could also be from grey and or black tanks. Pour some water in the shower drain. If the water in the p trap evaporates gases from the tank will enter the coach. Same for the sink drain. Another possibility is a bad vent pipe from one of the tanks. If it has come loose somewhere inside a cabinet. There should also be a small amount of water in the toilet bowl to also keep gasses out. Only other things would of course be mold. Check your cab over. I discovered a leak around my front windows but only after I pulled the carpet back from the windows. The other possibility is the refrigerator has a leak but that would be more of an ammonia smell.

I really don't know how much the output of a V6 alternator is, probably 35 to 45 amps. There are aftermarket alternators in the 100 amp range. They all have two batteries. We try to keep our rig ready at all times. We have the surprise of earthquakes and fire.