Gulfstream Greg
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Posts posted by Gulfstream Greg
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19 minutes ago, Mister Blu said:
One reference I found did mention one possible cause being bad high tension wire, or loose connection. I hear it ticking(presumably igniter trying to light a fire).
And as I mentioned before, a few days prior to furnace going on the fritz, i did noticed that I heard the same tick tick ticking even even after furnace flame was lit. Related?
How much is a compatible, upgrade board?
Mine had the same symptoms, had to put it on the bench for testing in order to find out the spark gap was too wide. Electricity will find the shortest path to ground so if it is not sparking at the gap it could be sparking somewhere else outside the fire chamber. If the wire gets a crack in the insulation this could happen. The board senses flame with the spark wire. If the wire is broken somewhere or the coil is shorted on the board the electronics will not see flame and try to relight. Note the gasket died when I pulled the view port hatch off. It took a few tries to get the correct. The gasket is important to keep those bad gasses out of the heated air!
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That is really cool. Where did you get it?
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Do you own a multi tester? And take a pick of the wires connecting to your existing lights, figure out what wire does what and wire accordingly to the new lights. Mark each wire with some painters tape numbering each wire then use the auto lamps pdf Derek supplied for guidance with the labels transfering your numbers to the pdf schematic. Post some pics of the new and old. Old lights are still connected to the Toyota? If not then you may need to use the multi tester to figure out what wire does what.
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I think I would get a test kit to verify it is not black mold. Just about everyone sells test kits. Google for some mold images and see what yours resembles. Black mold can come in a variety of colors.
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I think some horsepower under the hood, maybe even a Diesel, king or crew cab, a solid front axle, 5 speed manual, manual transfer case, manual locking hubs, full floating rear axle (bad deal when you break an axle in the boonies), 1 or 2 inch lift, 31 or 32 inch tires and gear ratio to accommodate the bigger tires, bigger fuel tank, dual batteries. Don't be stuck on Toyota!
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On 11/18/2018 at 4:17 AM, Miharriblz said:
filling the void with bubble wrap or light weight foam sheeting
Not so sure about using bubble wrap. Check this out https://www.azdelonboard.com/
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I have always been under the impression that panels should be wired in series for better charge efficiency. Then select the correct controller for the voltage supplied from the in-series panels.
An expert I am not, so anyone have the info to fill in the blanks? Some panel/controller 101?
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On 11/15/2018 at 5:59 AM, Maineah said:
Was that a family tradition?
Yes and we invited the fire dept for the second one!
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1 hour ago, Derek up North said:
Other than chimney fires.
When we lived in Boulder Creek, two years in a row on new years eve we had a flue fire.
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On 11/11/2018 at 5:05 PM, Maineah said:
Grege I hope you are doing all right with the fires praying they have not made it that far north.
Yes we are doing fine, we moved to Oregon near Salem one year ago. Our fire season here has ended with the winter rains. Thanks!
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On 11/9/2018 at 11:06 AM, Derek up North said:
It sure would be nice if there was a was to do a direct comparison test with air springs.
That would be a great comparison. Also an expensive test. The air bags I had installed on my Toyota Gulfstream were a major project. I had to remove the axle u bolts to install the bags. They were so rusted I had to cut them off. Took hours to install. But when done I had a air pump that I could operate from the cab to add more pressure and a release valve to lower pressure. Had air shocks also. Both together gave a solid no sway ride. Previously before the bags the rear bumper sometimes dragged when going into and out of driveways. The bags were rubber, probably pop eventually. I think if you all are going to try the roadmaster suspension you should first know your rear axle weight with the coach loaded for a trip then call roadmaster and get their opinion. The above product I linked is for pickups, not dually motorhomes. I am guessing Roadmaster could easily put together a custom kit with stronger springs.
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I just installed one of these kits from www.activesuspension.com. Not exactly on a Toyota but on my F150 with a very heavy workmaster steel canopy installed. But I see that there is a kit available for the Toyota trucks. The difference before and after is absolutely amazing. The truck went from feeling like a top heavy boat to a flat riding stable real truck. Installation for the F150 was really easy. But a floor jack and good jackstands is a requirement. It took longer to get ready for the install than it did to actually install the kit. Anyhow the pick below is the Toyota kit for 86-04 trucks. Not sure exactly how easy or how the Toyota kit installs. Here is a link to the page https://activesuspension.com/products/kits/1986-2004-toyota-pickup-2wd/
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7 hours ago, jjrbus said:
There are countless things to be checked and most with time and money are fixable. Tire age age is a biggy, tires that look good ready to explode on the way home! Google how to read DOT codes and check for dry rot. I would replace tires of unknown history at 6 years old.
The absolute worst problem I have seen over the years is overheating problems. People have bought Toys and they start with a thermostat, then a water pump, new radiator, new fan clutch, change to electric fan, then a fancy multi core radiator on and on throwing good money after bad. Overheating can be difficult to diagnose and may be a simple fix or a nightmare!
It is often head gasket sealer or magic radiator fix that has plugged the cooling cores in the motor. This is rare, I have seen 4 in the last 3 years, but for me personally if I saw any signs of overheating I would walk away.
I like that picture. A common mistake done. Keep renewing the sealant instead of fixing the problem. Gasket sealing also has another similar effect. The thought is it will never leak when I am done. You only need a thin coat of sealant for gaskets, make it thin enough to see through on both sides of the gasket. I knew a guy who bought a long block hot rodded engine. He used so much extra sealant for gaskets it got into the oil and pan. It blew up within a few miles after first start. And not all gaskets need sealant. Engine builder would not warrantee it.
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Is there a small hole in the knob? If so then push a paper clip into the hole.
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On 4/9/2018 at 12:47 PM, rogersvensson said:
I found the sail switch to be the problem because it wasn't sensitive enough to be activated when the voltage dropped a little bit on the battery(fan not generating enough wind), before it would not work properly if the voltage was down below 12 volts. Now it works when the voltage drops down to even 10.5 volts.
I also noticed the fan would bind when I turned it by hand for about maybe one quarter of its full turn and it was because they had tightened one of the screws that mounted the fan in the housing too much at the time it was manufactured.....so I've always had this challenge now going on 25 plus years. This unit now works better than it ever did once I relieved the screw pressure so that the blade of the fan can turn freely (meaning the fan can turn faster helping to actuate the sail switch.)
Just as reference (A reading of 12.65-12.77 volts means your battery has a full charge. 12.45-12.54 volts means you have a 75% charge, 12.24-12.29 is 50% charged, and 11.99-12.06 volts is 25% charged. 11.75-11.89 volts means your battery is dead.) I bring this up because fan rpm might be too low at low voltages to properly cool the combustion chamber. https://www.yourmechanic.com/article/how-to-check-the-voltage-of-a-car-battery
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Bobby's Pit Stop in Santa Cruz replaced our starter (89 V6) using their lift. They have done other work also, always great service. I tried doing the starter myself crawling under. Gave up, took it to them!
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Is the tank nylon plastic type material? If so nylon plastic can be hot air welded.
I think I have that adapter, off centered? I recently bought the wrong size. Too big for my tank. https://www.etrailer.com/RV-Sewer/Valterra/T1041-2.html Mine was this one https://www.etrailer.com/RV-Sewer/Valterra/T1041-1.htmlWelding
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2 hours ago, neubie said:
The isolator shows alternator voltage on one side but house battery voltage on the other with engine running. This is the old solenoid type little cylinder. Can only assume the isolator is busted.
What's the favorite replacement? solenoid or solid state?
Verify that you have 12 volts at the smaller terminal with the ignition on. Hold your hand on the isolator and have someone switch on the ignition, there should be a heard and felt clunk. No clunk check to see that it is getting 12v on the energizer terminal. If it is bad and you are thinking of installing an AGM house battery then go with an isolater like the one WME suggests. This is another good one also https://www.littelfuse.com/~/media/commercial-vehicle/application-guides/littelfuse-if-161-48525-smart-battery-isolator.pdf
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34 minutes ago, cruisecontrol said:
Hi Greg the shop that did the compression and borescope tests and tuneup said that lead/cord wasn’t live. The mpg is dismal, and it CRAWLS up hills...there’s a leak in the exhaust manifold and it’s one more thing I can’t afford at this point.
on the bright side, I got a new fridge under warranty except the rv dealership charged me for re and re of the rv door to install the fridge. Dometic will not pay any such ‘extras’
Our 89 v6 went up most hills great. It would shift down, had to be really steep to be crawling. Someone might have put that ignition system in for hopes of better performance. 10 to 13 is not a bad number depending on the terrain and atmosphere conditions. I know some people report 16 mpg, not sure if that is rare or common. If we got 13 mpg that was really good. No matter where we have gone there has usually been several mountain passes to climb to get there and a bunch of cargo. As a comparison, we now have moved to a 25ft travel trailer weighing in at about 3800 pounds empty. Our tow vehicle a 2010 F150 Lariet crew cab with a V8. It's mpg towing averages about the same as our toy did.
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I would be interested to know when you hook it up if you actually see a performance gain or better MPG.
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23 minutes ago, jjrbus said:
Decades ago way back in the last century it was common to solder gas tanks. A large soldering iron was heated by a blow torch, The flames never touched the tanks so not for the faint of heart , but not dangerous. Wonder if someone would solder this?
I did not think of it before and was reminded of it on another forum.
I am still pursuing having my spotwelds redone, I am already into this tank for $90 and a new one would put me at $500. Will be talking with a high end welder next week.
I have soldered gas tank leaks and still have the irons. Works great for sheet metal type materials. This picture is not mine but almost exactly like mine. Probably a modern version available somewhere or an old one on eBay. Not sure soldering will fix a stress related leak. No matter what the tank still needs to be dry and fume free. http://www.copperguttershop.com/Soldering_irons.htm
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4 hours ago, Maineah said:
That's cheap enough just to have one even if you never use it! I wonder if it really is 1 watt TX?
I highly doubt it has a 1 watt of actual rf output. It may though be 1 watt ERP (effective radiated power) with antenna gain. The key factor is getting it outside and above the roof with a clear shot to the access point.
Furnace Heater Trouble Shooting- Help Needed
in General Discussion
Posted
The motors use oilite bearings. They are factory impregnated with oil and the oil gets used up after some time. Friction heat pulls the oil out of the bearing towards the shaft that's why it gets quiet after a while. You can not replace that oil. Not sure that adding oil will work long term. Usually a motor replacement is in order.