Gulfstream Greg
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Posts posted by Gulfstream Greg
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My apologies if someone already covered this. I am going to point my finger at your EGR valve. If it sticks open you will not be able to idle because it will create a vacuum leak. They can seal or not seal randomly. The EGR valves are notorious for getting a build up of carbon and gunk inside. They open up at higher rpms via a vacuum line. I think it is mounted on the back of the cylinder head next to the firewall. If you were in a different state you could remove it and install a delete plate.
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12 hours ago, BobBeery said:
I am just not sure that the airlifts allow as much up and down axle movement on some of the pothole pounding roads I sometimes have to use.
Airlift and Firestone both have compressor kits that can be operated from the cab. They include gauges so that you can keep track of what pressures you like best.
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Here is one for sale in British Columbia https://vancouver.craigslist.org/nvn/cto/d/north-vancouver-1994-toyota-hiace-turbo/6833520538.html
Looking through different locations on craigslist I see them for sale. So if your gut really likes the hiace look around before you drop 20K, 4x4 will open up another world for you! The camper versions look rare though.
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8 minutes ago, linda s said:
With single wheels you will be facing stability and cornering problems. That's why boundfornowhere sold their Sunrader after all that work. Another whole set of crap to deal with instead of just getting it done for a great price.
Linda S
Singles have more sidewall flex. Rear tire sidewall flex along with body roll will give you really wonky steering, that's my guess on what boundfornowhere was experiencing. Plus being 4 wheel drive sitting higher they were more top heavy than a 2 wheel drive. Maybe there is a correct single tire and suspension choice. Some of it might be custom!
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Also note that some aftermarket replacement cats for the toys have inlet and outlet reductions inside the cat. The pipe on the outside might be the same size as your exhaust pipe but inside the cat the diameter is reduced. Possibly not a big deal but in my opinion there should be no restrictions in pipe diameter. How do I know? I did my own cat replacement on a stock 22RFI turbo exhaust. I was checking out the cat before install and discovered the reduction. The factory cat had no reductions. The parts guy had no explanation and in his opinion was not a problem, I disagreed. I busted out the insides of my old cat and ran it, eventually installed a custom larger diameter system and cat.
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57 minutes ago, PTidwell said:
Running into a problem...my Itasca has dual catalytic converters and my local muffler shop(s) have never seen this before. They must be replaced. In California this is a huge problem. All the CC materials I’ve read say the Toyota 3.0l V6 uses only a single converter. Mystery. Any thoughts?
Our CA 90 also had dual cats, on the same pipe inline with each other. I think they were factory! Smog shops eyebrows were raised for sure! They found some reference for it and passed it 3 separate times.
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13 hours ago, prodrumernate said:
1989 Odyssey. it failed the pressure test.it was taken to a mechanic and they did a smoke test.they could see it was coming from above fuel tank but couldnt find its exact location.
anyone have any manuals on dropping the tank and what it would take to do it.possibly an access panel under the floorboard as well?we dont own an owners manual and havent been able to locate.
i want to drop the tank and see if i can repair it.thata stopping it from a title change and getting it on the road.
thanks in advance.
This video might be correct
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On 3/9/2017 at 2:01 PM, Derek up North said:
This is an 18' Sunrader. The owner thought she could 'get away with it'.
I've said it before and I'll say it again: The recall makes no mention of length or weight being the problem. It was (and is) the foolies.
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1 hour ago, Sunny78 said:
TigersRreal,
The rear axle is in fine shape. From what I have read and understand, the recall did not affect the 17' model Sunrader because the weight was not heavy enough to cause the damage that many later rigs experienced. Eventually I will replace the axle (I will be doing a 4x4 swap in the future, so will be swapping both axles out then) currently the stock 5 lug axle is fine. I was able to drive it with the broken windshield down to a shop in santa cruz to get that fixed, and then took her all the way up to Tahoe. Ran like a champ the whole way. Just got her new 2020 tags yesterday, so we are all registered and legal! stoked!
If it has the non-floating axle using dulies it is a huge safety issue no matter what size the rig is. The situation is that the outside wheel because of it's distance from the bearing creates continuous flexing (via leverage) of the axle behind the hub at the bearing. Eventually the axle fatigues and breaks off and away goes your wheel assembly. Really high tire pressures aggravate the problem. Sometimes there might be some warning signs. Enough to start you thinking "something weird is going on". Then at 50 plus miles an hour on a curve! Unless the guy who checked your axle actually took it out and magniflexed it how do you know there are no microscopic cracks? If your set on keeping the axle you MUST remove the fake duals and replace with a single wheel. I don't think the above scenario can be classified as opinion anymore. The non-floating rear axles with the fake duals fail. Go to a scale, get the rear axle weight, go to a tire store with those numbers (don't forget cargo weight) and get rid of the fake duals.
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13 hours ago, 5Toyota said:
Atlanta camper you are very correct I have gotten those from LES Schwab . 500 stores in the west .
Having bought several tires from Les Schwab my personal feelings are that they are one of the best tire stores in the west. I recently dropped the right front of my F150 into a deep 2 foot hole. It was a hard hit. Took it down to Les Schwab because I was sure the alignment was off. They put it on the machine and also fixed a slow leak in a rear tire. The alignment was good, the leaky tire was causing the weird handling. They called me to the desk and said you good to go! I said what, how much do I owe? $0.00
And there is one on just about every corner (slight exaggeration depending where you are).
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We removed our A/C from our 18 ft sunrader when we had it. Replaced it with variable speed in or out vent fan. We did not have a generator. When parked open windows on the cool side of the rig, set the fan to exhaust and pull cooler air in through the windows. The loss of cargo space for a generator is a huge impact in a 18 footer. If your bent on having a generator installed give these guys in Sacramento a call http://rvdoctorgeorge.com/ see if they are willing. I am sure they could hook you up with a running genset. I doubt that anyone can give you a real price over the phone. The install will be custom with many many man hours involved. It would not be a couple of days project. There are also a couple of RV shops in the Santa Cruz area that do repairs not sure about custom installs. You are also entering the RV season, everyone and his uncle has their RV at a repair shop getting something fixed. Take a number!
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Are you saying that the double's actually have two contactors? Outside pair should be double (running/brake), the middle should be single (turn), and the inside I believe is just single for reverse. Someone may have modified yours for some reason. Maybe time to replace with the LED version https://trailerparts.com/products/trailer-lights/trailer-tail-lights/bargman-47-84-005-taillight.html
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1 hour ago, RaderNed said:
The fact that the pump stops cycling after one to three times makes me lean towards the check valve too. If it was a leak, seems like it would continue to cycle, and there'd be pretty obvious water somewhere
I think the valves can be purchased to repair the pump. Google the brand, model and valve etc. Cheaper than a new pump
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I'm putting my money on the pump check valve
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I would just get a couple of 5 gal water containers for xtra water.
When we had our 18ft sunrader I replumbed the shower disconnecting it from the black tank. The replumb was set up for a standard hose connection that could go directly into a 5 gal bucket or out into the bushes. I replaced the shower spray nozzle with the pull out type that is used in residential sinks for rinsing off dishes. Not the main faucet but the little sprayer along side on a hose. They provide a high velocity spray and they shut off. Found that we could take a shower with about 2 to 3 gallons of water. Since the 18 ft black tanks are only 8 gallons it was a big deal. Adapting the new hose to the existing threads though is a bit of a challenge. Take as many pieces as you can when you visit the hardware store to match threads!
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If it is Nylon based plastic I know of nothing that will permanently glue the crack. But Nylon plastic tanks can be "Plastic Welded" using a pinpoint hot air torch and the correct plastic rod for the type of plastic. No idea how much a torch would cost but you might be able to rent one. The welding method is permanent and the area could be built up to add strength. I did a quick internet search for "weld nylon plastic" and got a ton of returns and instructional videos.
Led's can be dimmed using this device. It is called a pulse width modulator. I actually pulled the innards out and built the circuitry into my light fixture with the knob sticking out the side but they could easily be mounted next to the fixture. Really cheap on ebay. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Manual-Dimmer-Switch-for-LED-Strip-Light-12V-8A-Mountable-with-Terminals/251985183083?epid=1658856529&hash=item3aab7cc16b:g:gQoAAOSwQy9cUc-Y:rk:1:pf:1&frcectupt=true
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On 2/16/2019 at 5:49 PM, Grime_Divine said:
We finally took the plunge and recently purchased a 1987 Gulfstream Conquest Toymo. As we are going though the complete interior overhaul and replacing a few water-damaged areas, I’m noticing aluminum tube stock on the bottom floors and in the cracks of some wall board. Does anyone know if these things have an aluminum frame for the Coach?
Our 1990 Gulfstream had all aluminum framing. I had to rebuild the cab over walls due to water damage. It had leaked on both sides where the roof sheathing meets the front aluminum cowling. https://www.gulfstreamcoach.com/media/uploads/1/11066_1991-Conquest-Toyota-Micro.pdf
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On 2/19/2019 at 4:12 PM, Maineah said:
Personally the best place is in the garage.
I agree, they are too big for our cramped RV's. I thought of getting one for my shop but gave up the idea because I did not want to set my dog on fire. If you camp where you have shore power then one of the small electrics with a built in circulation fan is far safer.
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43 minutes ago, Derek up North said:
Fred and Wilma's rig?
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On 2/12/2019 at 6:53 PM, DanAatTheCape said:
my old heater is cranky - if I warm it up with an electrical heater then it will work. after it works once it is good until it gets really cold again.
So when it is cold the metal is slightly shrunk and when you warm it the metal expands and gets a gets a connection. Can be rust or other corrosion between some components or wire connectors. Could even be a cold solder joint or cracked trace on the control board. Can be a pain in the rear to find. Try the tap on things before using the electric heater.
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On 2/16/2019 at 6:30 PM, Mister Blu said:
Not sure about a window. Do not see any? A few times i was able to stick a BBQ long lighter into exhaust and light it that way. After three or four successful attempts, i have not been able to get it to fire again. Is there a way to access the spark gap while furnace is still installed in rv?
Well you need to get the correct manual. The manual should tell you how to adjust the gap and troubleshoot.
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On 2/11/2019 at 8:37 PM, Squirrel said:
Thanks for the concern Greg. I lit my furnace with scraps of paper for about 2 years without any noticeable ill effects. The gasket material on the combustion chamber is much thicker than what I have on the exhaust manifold. It squishes down nicely and seals well. I never said I was smart, but it worked every time.
I've never had a CO detector, just another person to tell me if my face is red, or if they have a headache. I could see where it would be prudent though.Usually gets you when you are sleeping. CO poisoning puts you into a deeper sleep then your dead!
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Having a rake can affect steering, oversteer or understeer. Bad deals in emergency maneuvers. A boaty rear suspension is also not good in emergency maneuvers. Consider having the toe in and camber checked as I think it has changed with lifting the rear. The front end needs to think it is flat no matter how high or low the back is. So is level off so much when parked that your refrigerator will suffer. Adjust your headlights and get some leveling blocks. Run your tire pressures at what it says on the sidewalls.
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1 hour ago, wombosi said:
The area in the foreground - is there supposed to be a tank there (black/gray water?) Looks like something is missing.
Also any reason to be concerned with the dented/leaking transfer case?
Read this http://classifieds.toyotamotorhome.org/images/Axle_FAQ.pdf
The missing tank? My guess a black tank or both, the hole, could be shower or toilet. What is missing inside (toilet/shower)? Not sure about the 21 footers but the 18 footers have the shower dumping into the black water tank. Some people remove all the plumbing and fixtures and go minimalist.
Fridge - gas lighting issue
in Coach ApplianceTech Issues
Posted
There are some more components to a happy refer. 1: a ventilation fan mounted at the highest vent, the idea is to get air flow through the back coils. There are some solar fan options. You want to suck the air from the bottom to the top and out the vent
2: Pre-cool the refer with some frozen water bottles in both the freezer and the main compartments. Leave them in for your trip if you can. 3: Thermal mass. These refers work with thermal mass. Pre-cool everything your going to put in it. If it is empty when you open the door all the cold air dumps out, replaced with warm air. 4: Leveling. Don't use the inside of the refer to check if you are level. Pre-level and place some bubble levels somewhere for easy checking. 5: Get a temp monitor made for these refers. They end some of the guessing. 6: Plan your trips into the refer. Get everything once, opening and closing the door several times while preparing meals is tuff to recover from. 7: Gas vs Electric. The electric heating element is mounted directly to the tube that needs to be heated. The gas is different in that the heat from the flame travels up through the chimney through a spiral baffle. That spiral baffle can eventually start to decay to the point where it becomes harder and harder to transfer the flames heat. If you are finding a bunch of rusty debris below the chimney then the baffle is dying. That disintegrating baffle is one reason an older refer has cooling problems. 8: It is also possible that a previous owner ran the refer too far out of level too many times and some of the cooling mixture has solidified in the internals.