Gulfstream Greg
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Posts posted by Gulfstream Greg
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The following link is to a Sunrader I used to own. Not sure it is still for sale but at that price?? The seller though is missing some facts. I completely built a new exhaust system. Starting at the turbo I has a larger down tube manufactured. Not going to get that from Toyota and then 2.5 inch exhaust all the way. We sold it for 16K back when. http://www.toyotarvforsale.com/1986-sunrader-turbo-in-santa-cruz-ca/
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Could be the start stop switch went bad or a problem with the wires to and from the switch. I see some fuses there to the left of the switch.
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Bit the bullet and installed the newest version of the board. Should be some new features and obviously I need to do some tweaking.
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On 1/12/2020 at 1:56 PM, Odyssey 4x4 said:
You have me drooling at that bronco!
Here is a shot off the trail, of the Sacramento river, 30 years ago.
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I have not gone further than the video on research. Just have no time. Maybe someone can research all the options with details. I know that some boondock rigs are also using diesel stoves. My big question is, are these diesel appliances more efficient than propane, less fuel volume and cost per gallon vs propane?
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I happened upon this guy camping out in the snow in his VW using a chinese diesel heater. Create your own opinions.
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On 1/18/2020 at 10:35 AM, hamkid said:
How do you reduce the size of the pics?
Download Gimp https://www.gimp.org/ . It can resize images to what ever size you need. The system is set to 800x800 pixels max or less.
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On 12/27/2019 at 7:53 AM, Maineah said:
That is for the older alternators with an external regulator the newer ones are much simpler only 3 pins. There was some odd balls with an exciter wire for a couple of years but they were fairly early ones. It would be wired the same except there would be no "E" (exciter) wire.The 1 and 2 wire are interchangeable (makes no difference) and the A goes to the alternator. Because the alt wire has already been cut that should not present a problem just a matter of connecting it to the A terminal. Either there was problem or lack of knowledge and that is why all the wires are joined together this of course defeated the concept of an isolator and would be a good way to end up with 2 dead batteries.
I was under the belief that even the internal regulated alternators needed the exciter circuit of the isolator to be hot with ignition on. The alternator output wants to see 12v + to energize? I ask because my 90 had the 4 wire isolator. Not sure about the regulator. While cruising down the freeway the isolator shorted internally to ground. Took out my alternator and left it smoking. Luckily I was able to pull over next to an auto parts store, buy a new one, bolt it up and drive off. That little delay allowed us to see a spectacular sunset on the way to the coast!
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8 minutes ago, Derek up North said:
Perhaps there was a version of the A340 made with a bellhousing/converter that would mate to the 22RTE.
That sounds right. I believe I did read that it had a separate bell housing.
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2 hours ago, Derek up North said:
I've read before that the 22RTE (turbo) used the A340 automatic and not the A43 automatic. I've also read that the 22RE (non-turbo) only connects to the A43. This leaves me confused.
A340F with locking converter for OD?
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2 hours ago, Genshie said:
I can't even imagine how gutless a 4x4 turbo would be with that horrible 4 speed automatic. It's bad enough with the V6, which is why swapping to a manual trans was mandatory. And yes, I know what you mean about not having enough power to back up onto rocks, a curb or anything with the automatic. I had the same problem. I'd have to back into things with enough momentum to bump up over them. The trans wouldn't let the engine's power drive the wheels from a dead stop. Won't be a problem now with low range behind the 5 speed!
The turbo trucks used the same trans that is behind the V6's with a locking converter. Ran it in overdrive all the time. If the trans was running hot out of overdrive you could engage OD and actually watch the trans temp drop rather quickly. I have a friend who has the same truck minus the sunrader coach. His though, manual trans and a hybrid turbo. His turbo spools up when cracking open the throttle. Huge advantage. Still though I would take the V6 over the turbo 4. Actually prefer a V8 for off roading. Just something about having torque.
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We owned a 86 Sunrader 4x4 turbo 4 IFS front. Main issue was weight. Reducing the interior coach weight could make a difference. We kept ours stock almost. Larger downtube from the turbo and 2 1/2 inch exhaust. Added extra leaf in the rear. When loaded for a week long trip it was heavy. Turbo with an automatic at high elevations? Sometimes could not get the turbo to spin up when in gear. Found that out by trying to back up onto a big rock to get level. Could not develop enough power to even try. First gear low was ok but reverse no way. I have to say though it did pretty well out on some sorta bad roads. My Bronco VS Sunrader
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You may have bought a switching disconnect solenoid. Switching solenoids switch from off to on or on to off. They operate by using a momentary on push button switch that supplies power to the trigger terminal (ign) to trigger them from on to off or off to on. The momentary push button switch sends power temporarily to the solenoid, switching its direction. The solenoid locks itself on or off. Like a toggle switch.
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2 hours ago, Thirsty Spirit said:
Alright I got a new Isolator (switch interuptor - what it says on the box). Basically looks the same as the one that was there but has the two prongs on the front.
Some of those with two prongs on the front operate differently than a solenoid isolator. Like this one which is the wrong type. Notice that when power is applied it switches on or off. https://www.intellitec.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/53-00066-100.pdf
And no matter what, the wiper wire should not have been cut like that. And your solenoid should have been getting 12v ignition from somewhere else, not the wiper circuit.
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43 minutes ago, Thirsty Spirit said:
Btw WME- its a three post.
So I checked all the volts. The car battery reads 12+ Volts, the terminal into the isolator reads about the same. I turned on the engine and the mystery white wire read 12+ volts. The terminal out of the isolator to the house battery reads 0v. I attached the white wire to the isolator and the terminal out of the isolator still read 0v. I attached the house battery and the reading out of the isolator read 456 volts and the house battery read the same. I'm gonna take a sunday drive and see if the volts go up but maybe my isolator is bad?
Can you hear the solenoid click when you give it ignition power? If it does not click and you have 12v on the small terminal it is bad . If it does click and you only have 12 volts on one side of the large terminals it is bad. If it has 12 volts on both sides follow the wire testing as you go. I may have missed something but why did the previous owner cut the wire going to the windshield wiper motor. Were both add on white wires not connected to anything? Find any other wires that are not connected to anything?
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Howdy all. I finally have a new classifieds up and running. It is still in its testing and tuning phase but seems to be running ok. If anyone encounters some problems or has some suggestions please contact me through the classifieds "Contct Us" link.
Greg
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On 6/14/2019 at 7:27 PM, DanielM said:
the tray on the bottom of the AC unit inside the rv was completely full of water.
There might be a drain hole in the pan on the AC itself to drain rain and condensation onto the roof.
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I logged in as danlang and did the test post. He is having login issues.
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Yup, 1/2 ton chassis. Not to say a different box can't be stuck in it. Google for some toyota 4x4 pickup rock crawler parts.
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39 minutes ago, Derek up North said:
AFAIK, there is no metal framing in the Warrior.
Thought I saw one that was being restored and it had a metal frame?
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9 hours ago, linda s said:
There were no changes to the 22re when they went to 6 lug, still same as the 5. The V6 though they kept tweaking the sensors the last few years and needed the computer to work with them. That weird transmission speed sensor I found for that member is one of those strange changes. Only used on the same year as Tom's. Hope someone try's the wrong computer sometime so they can tell us if it worked
Linda S
Where any V6 trucks produced with any other additional modules or do they all just have the engine control module. And you mention tweaking the sensors. Is the tweaked sensor a different part number? And can these ECM's be tuned, is there a way to tweak the ECM? Maybe tweak the ECM with a different sensor?
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It could be in the open position!
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On 6/4/2019 at 5:33 AM, AtlantaCamper said:
I took some time and carefully mounted some Hopkins 08525 graduated level indicators because I got tired of trying to find the right spot for the bubble indicator (yes, bottom of fridge is not all that flat so it's not a good place to monitor from).
Use the freezer tray for the initial leveling. Find a flat parking area. Get it exact then place your levels. Two inside the coach and two inside the cab. When parking get it close with the cab levels then check the coach levels. The cab and coach will not always read the same due to some twisting of the cab and frame on uneven terrain. We had a refer in one rig that really needed to be almost perfect to be happy. I think it had a ruff life before we got the rig. Everyone's refer will cool differently depending on it's history. I have met many who had no clue the refer needed to be level.
SSL Certificate install - Moving the classifieds also - And system upgrade coming
in News - Forum Help & Discussion
Posted
Hi all. Getting ready to switch from HTTP to HTTPS. Been awhile since I installed a certificate. Nothing should really change if all goes well. The classifieds are presently hosted under ToyotaCampersForSale.com but will be moved to a sub folder here on ToyotaMotorhome.org in order to keep them in the HTTPS blanket. The board software needs an update installed to fix some bugs also. So stay tuned.