Cruise Control, Again

[waiter]

I was having problems with the Cruise control kicking off for no reason, and also kicking off when I used the turn signals or turned the tail lights on/off.

These problems were all related to the tail lights and tail light wiring, and some cross feeding going on that the Cruise control wasn't able to tolerate.

When I replaced the taillights with LEDs, I was pretty sure it wasn't going to solve this problem. The LEDs were meant to solve the intermittent tail light problem (bad sockets), but I had a cure up my sleeve for the CC problem.

I added a relay to the brake circuit. i.e. the relay energizes when the brake is pressed.

I then moved the Cruise control wires off the brake switch, and wired them to the relay contacts.

One of the Open contacts is wire to the 12 volt wire on the brake switch.

The other contact has a 100 ohm resistor to ground. The Cruise Control disconnect is also wired to this contact.

When the brake is off, the CC wire is pulled to ground through the 100 ohm resistor. (In the normal world, the CC is pulled to ground through the filament in the light bulb) When the brake is applied, the relay energizes and the CC sees the 12 volts, and disconnects.

A short test drive and the CC now works OK. Doesn't trip off when the turn signals are used or if the tail lights are turned on/off.

NOTE - This is the original CC that was installed by National RV. Seems to work OK

If anyone has any documentation on this CC, I would appreciate a copy.

John Mc

88 Dolphin 4 Auto

[waiter]

Here's a diagram for the Relay circuit to isolate the Cruise Control disconnect from the brake light circuit.

PARTS - 12 volt cube relay and wire pigtail ( Some of these already have the diode, if not, need to add the diode., Diode, 100 ohm resistor.

NOTE - My remote Starter kill is also connected to the CC disconnect.

If the brake is pressed, The Remote Starter Kill shuts the engine off if it was started and is running using the Remote Starter.