prasi00

Hello, Does anyone have the OEM bumbers for Oil and Fuel filters for 22RE 1987? I am based in Europe and it a royal pain in a** to find parts for Toy as they did not have the model here at the time and the parts search by frame number returns zilch. I generally use the following search engine but I can't find the code for fuel filter. http://toyota-usa.epc-data.com/4runner/rn55l/2736/ Thanks Nikolay

Thanks again for all your input! It looks like I have 4 wheels with 5 hand holes and 2+1spare with 3 hand holes. All are with conical nuts, so look interchangeable. My front tyres were also loosing air slowly but now that I've checked them the air is seeping through where the valves connect to the rim. Bottom line is I have one damaged wheel. Plan is to keep that as a spare with an inside tube to account for the crack. This will save a ton of money. I will also call the main Toyota dealer in Sofia with the part number that Linda provided to check price. I've taken a photos of the hubs for reference Rear https://photos.app.goo.gl/4WUVJYKGaepGqkRC9 Front https://photos.app.goo.gl/BiqLvbRTTcaFCpPw8 I've had way too much trouble with old tyres last year and forked out for full new set of rubber and I thought I have the wheels sorted but the cracked wheel has thrown me off a bit. I am thinking of getting an aftermarket TPMS tyre pressure monitor so I can catch problems early. Do you guys have experience with those? Are they reliable? Quick note on the LPG/propane system the camper runs on. In Bulgaria LPG conversions of petrol engines are fairly common. I will say that perhaps of 10% of the petrol cars are converted. The camper was a challenge as the fuel injection is ancient (RE22). I was lucky to find a very good mechanic who was around at the dawn of the LPG conversions in the nineties and has seen such engines before. I am very happy with the end result - for the trade off of perhaps 10% reduction in power I spent 50% less on fuel. The petrol spent was about 20litres per 100km and now I get about 25l of LPG for 100km. Keep in mind that a price of litre of petrol is 1.23 USD which makes a gallon cost 4.66 USD. LPG is like 40% the price of petrol. I've got 2x40l LPG tanks slung at the bottom of the camper. I still have not piped them to the living quarters LPG system. Perhaps later on. For your reference LPG in Bulgaria is a mixture of propane and butane. I could not find any photos of the camper on the inside! Promise to post some once I clean it ! One the outside. I am still at two minds if I should try and paint so it looks acceptable or leave as it is. I like the beaten look and it also acts as thief deterrent. https://photos.app.goo.gl/BiqLvbRTTcaFCpPw8

Wow, that is a lot of very useful info. Need to measure when it stops raining! Indeed my rig is an Odyssey, so probaly the "fancier" rims are the aftermarket ones. And they are also the ones that have cracked. I will post pictures - looks scary on the outside, but is very cosy on the inside and solid mechancially. Plus it runs on LPG saving me ton of money when I travel.

Hi Linda, Thanks for the quick response! Delivery charges seem very reasonable at 50 USD per wheel. Can I double check that the wheels on our Toys are actually Toyota OEMs? I thought that the motorhome manufactures put aftermarket wheels on. I can't see any standard markings on the actual wheel to make sure. 4 of the wheels look a bit fancier (perhaps the aftermarket ones) and 2 (the insides on the back) look different although they appear interchangable apart from the looks. I have attached photos Fancy wheel https://photos.app.goo.gl/yxD6AR6HJcMmhz2E6 https://photos.app.goo.gl/64vCoE6o517sSAEp9 Simpler looking wheel https://photos.app.goo.gl/St5rk3eLT1vtjVxn6 https://photos.app.goo.gl/qGBrmAWooz1DgvXMA

One of the rear wheels on my Toy Odyssey has a small crack which leaks air causing the tyre to deflate over couple of weeks. I live in Europe and getting a replacement wheel seems like mission impossible. I've talked with couple of metalworkers to repair the wheel but both said that it will not hold well. Is my only option to put a inner tube inside? Or bite the bullet and pay the exorbitant prices of postage and import duties to import from US? Thanks Nikolay

Found the frame number. It was exactly where Fred said but on the passenger side. Also some of the letters were not there like the first 3 at the very left and another 3 in the middle. Hopefully this will be enough to register it.

Hold fingers. Setting up a day next week for crawling under the toy with a flashlight and wire brush

Thanks Fred. Is this the left when you are facing the camper or when you are sitting inside?

Hello, I own 1987 Odyssey which was registered for many years in UK. I exported it to Bulgaria last year and want to register it here but I am being refused as the local authorities cannot find a VIN number stamped on the frame. The only VINs I can find are the stamp on the dashboard and a sticker on the door. Nothing on the frame though. Is there a VIN stamped somewhere else on the chassis ? Really hope there is as otherwise I am stuck with an expensive stationary caravan!

Wme, how do you access the drains, is it through the grills in front of the windshield? I cannot see them.

Hi Guys, Just finished rebuilding the whole roof with EPDM rubber for my Odyssey and was waiting for the first big rain to test it. All was good apart from a small leak from one of the skylights. Need to reattach it. But there was another problem, my nice new roof carried the water and dropped it to the grills in front of the windshield. And from there considerable amount leaked into both footwells. i could not figure how to get inside the grills and check where the water is coming inside. Has anyone had a similar problems? I had a similar issue with my 1996 Audi A4 and it was a blocked drainhole. But I can't get inside the grill and can't really find the drain hole. Checked the Haynes manual, and also the original Toyota service manual but no success. Might have to tape them over as a stopgap solution, but it means all the water will get in the engine compartment instead of the footwells. The base truck is Toyota 22-RE 1987 Thanks Nikolay

Thanks a lot guys, I will post a few photos as I progress. At this stage all the photos I have are of rotten plywood and water damage, so I will hold off till I have some improvement to show. Starting with removing the tar from the roof on Sunday. I will go with the 2 x1inch insulation boards for the roof, and will glue them together, should add a bit of extra rigidity. I also like the idea of the convex roof, but it does add to the job and I don't have facilities to do it properly. I have to work outside in the middle of winter in London (plenty of rain). I have decided to instead replace the old framework for the roof while keeping the aluminium top in place.

Hi All, I am the very excited owner of a properly dilapidated Toyota Odyssey. Engine and chassis are not in a bad state, but body is badly affected by damp. It needs a lot of work but priority 1 is to stop the water ingress. Roof is made up of grp, with some Styrofoam for insulation and wooden struts plus steal frame. The wood is badly rotten and the metal rusted. Side walls are mostly ok apart from the wall under one of the windows which is rotten through. I am deliberating what to do with the roof. There are two distinct routes I can take. 1. Try to make the new roof slightly convex so it does not collect water. To do this: Make roof rafters by taking fairly large cross cut battens say 12cm, and tapering them to 2.5 cm at the edges to achieve slope. Use 5.5mm plywood to cover them on top. Insulation in the middle. 3mm ply at the bottom 2. Go with the flat roof, clean the tar (doh) previous owner has used from the fiberglass outer, put new rafters from a) wood or b ) aluminium and insulation in the middle and 3mm ply at the bottom. Option 2 should keep overall weight down, but will create risk of pooling water again. In both instances the final roof finish will be liquid EPDM rubber. I will not use the roof for storage or walking. Another option I am considering instead of using plywood is to use GRP sheeting. 2mm x2400mm x 1200mm costs around the gbp 90 mark vs around 12gbp for 3mm ply. But even if I get a leak in future the structural rigidity of the roof will not be affected and in theory it will be much easier to fix. In terms of aluminium profiles vs wood rafters, aliminium is lighter, will not rot. It is not much more expensive but it is hard to work with. Finally what insulation thickness to go for in the roof? I am contemplating between 25mm celoflex rigid boards and 50mm. Hugely excited from what is ahead. Looking forward to hear what you think. Nikolay

Hi Guys, I am new to the forum and about to buy a 1988 Odyssey. I am strugling to find information about the Gross Vehicle Weight rating and Payload. I am relocating abroad and want to load all my stuff in the van which means putting anything between 600 and 1000kg load inside including passengers. I know the rear axle is classifed as 1tn but want to find if there are more accurate payload information. Thanks Nikolay