jetalkington

You got me thinking though. There are rectangle hatches that are designed for top decks that can be walked on. I am going to measure the hole tomorrow and see if one of these would work. It might be a simple fix. Just epoxy or fiber glass the wood to seal it and drop in the hatch.

Thanks. I had actually considered that. We rent kayaks and have some of the 4 inch ones in stock because we have to replace them once in a while. Mostly the lid, but you can't buy the lid separate from Old Town. I want to put a new floor down with cork planks and had not thought through how to make it look right. I had given thought about covering it and know it is there if I need it. Or put the flooring down and allow the hatch to show.. It is under the dinette. The hole is about 8x9 so I would have to do something to make it smaller and fit the hatch. Either way I have to create a patch for the hole. Either to fit the hatch or just to fill it.

It is a new tank. He told me they put it in just before he sold it to me and it does look new.

I have been cleaning out the inside of my 1990 Sunrader. I pulled up the 1/4 plywood on the floor because it was starting to lift. Turns out it only had a few staple and was topped with vinyl. When I got the plywood out I discover a patch in the floor. It is right over the gas tank. So, I am guessing when the put the new tank in there must have been a problem and the cut hole in the floor. They did a really bad job of patching it and the patch was soft. Looks like they used regular drywall screws and they all rusted and broke. I put in a picture below. My floor is all OSB. According to the Sunrader brochures it is suppose to have a foam filling and and aluminum bottom. Mine was built in California and has wrap around windows. Did they do something different at some point or was my floor replaced? If it was I wish they had at least used plywood. The did a really good job around the edges as it is all glassed about a foot from the perimeter. As you can see where the patch is the floor has swelled. The hole looks like a pain to fix right with its location above the gas tank.

Thanks for taking the time to post. I like the look of it. I will keep it in mind when I get to that end of the rehab. I am starting in the rear and working forward. I ended up with a lot more rotted wood than I had hoped. The old particle board just disintegrated. Linda, we do the two blankets in our tow behind. We have a 19' Escape with a queen bed. My wife makes it up with two of everything. It make it hard to snuggle on those cold nights. She has never gone with me in the Sunrader so we will have to see how it works out. I suspect the two comforters will win out here as well.

It sounds cool. My wife has been concerned about the full size bed in the loft area. She says I hog the blankets and was not sure how it was going to work out. Post a picture of yours. It may be just the trick. The one thing I like about the loft sleeping is I don't have to make it up every night. So, maybe when she is with me I can show her this/your setup and when I am traveling alone I will be able to use the loft. Thanks

I have the one with bench seats around a dinette, which can become a bed. It is also perfect size for my grandson. Opposite the dinette is a sofa with the the back that rolls forward and makes a bed. Thanks for the tips on the seat belts. I had thought one of previous owners had done the connections to the plywood. My water tank is under my sofa so I am not sure how make it work yet. When I get there i will give it more thought.

I think I have the same style Sunrader as you. 21' with rear bath. I recently started working on mine and found so much rotted wood I ended up removing everything. There was decay everywhere. Fortunately I have fun doing this stuff. I have removed my carpet and plan to clean and paint the beams. So, I can get mine out by removing the bolts. I will put them back. they are a major source of support for the roof and AC. I was concerned about how or why they used the tape to seal them instead of sealer. I thought there might have been a reason I was missing I think the thing you have is a bow cleat from a boat. I had not thought about going that route. I think it is a good idea. I am putting solar panels on top, so no canoe. But, the thought of having a quick connect for a close line is appealing.

How are the seat belts supposed to be fastened in? I recently took out my sofa and found the seat belts were bolted to the plywood. I plan to put the sofa back and would like to know how to be sure the seats would be effective. I can't believe 3/4 plywood is sufficient.

I am in the process of rehabbing my 21' 1990 Sunrader. I am taking the interior ceiling down, due to water damage. My Sunrader has two steel arch beams running from side to side. I would like to temporarily remove them one at a time. I would maintain support on the AC unit with a jack. The ceiling panel seams are under the cross members and to get everything out and the new up It would make a cleaner job if I could remove them. They are just bolted in. I have tried loosening the bolts but it does not give me enough room. My question is there is tape covering the heads on the outside of the shell. I think it is EPDM tape but thought I would ask here to be sure. Is it EPDM tape? Does anyone have any experience with removing them and putting them back?

I have the wrapped windows. But these things are 30 years old. Hard to tell what some one has done to them. I think someone replace the floor in mine at some point. Unless they used OSB on the top and bottom of the floor in 1990.

I have both style on mine. The script on the front and the block letter on the back. I thought that was normal. So, it is supposed to be script front and back?

What does the old vs new lettering look ? I am planning to replace mine. I talked to a local guy who did my truck lettering. He said he can do them. I want to be sure and get the right ones. I have a 1990 Sunrader.

I would like to see more. I have started my rehab on my 21 Sunrader. I am lurking around here seeking design ideas. Got the couch out and found so much decay I decide to gut the whole thing. I am just deciding what to do about the shower. I definitely want one and it is not in bad shape. The wood above show is all decayed and smells. I just did a search trying to see if anyone has had any luck taking a show out and getting it back in. I like the look of your bathroom sink area. I would like to know more. I started blogging about my rehab on my website jimtalkington.com

I have my MH and I run a state park concession. I have 8 pop machines in the park. Every year I have clean out mice nests from the winter and repair wires. Last fall I heard about fresh cab and prayed it would work. I put 1 bag it in every machine I had. This year is the first year I only had 1 nest and that was in coin collector box. Far away from the Fresh cab in the top of the machine. Next fall I am putting two in every machine. It really did work. But, you need to be sure to add enough.

Ok, I got my front windows resealed with a new seal and bead. I had to rewatch that video about 4 time and in slow mo to see all the little tricks he was using to get his in. It turned out to be a real problem. I am convinced these are not the original windows. As I showed above I had to trim the rear fiberglass on the pass side about 1/4 inch. I actually could have gone more but was paranoid and I got the window in. The driver side was was as bad. I lined up the window with parts of the old gasket and the window overlapped the center divider section. I had to trim it about 3/8 of an inch to get the corners to line up. Then when I tested the fit again I noticed that the lower corner above the drivers door was cut nearly too wide. The gasket barely covered it. I got it in and water tested. No leaks so far. I will likely revisit it in the spring but I only outside to work on it and we are getting a lot of rain and tonight it is going to 30 degrees. I do not know how anyone gets that bead in without the tool. It was a life saver.

Got my new Roof Vent in. Turned out Great. Slight enlarging of the existing hole but not a big deal. Butyl tape only install. 5 inches of rain Friday and still dry.

That is how i put it in. But that gasket is just a section of the old gasket. i will have to look tomorrow to see what the new one looks like. The old one was siliconed in so i have a couple hours of cleaning and polishing the window.

Thanks. If you look in the initial posts you can see we put the gasket in the way it came out. That may be part of the problem.

I got some time and decided to tackle my front wrap windows. I did get a lot of history with the vehicle. One of the previous owners was good about keeping receipts. They go back to 2001. In those receipts I found that the window had been reseated twice in 7 years. The receipt indicated the top corner of the window bulged out. So it seems me there is a problem, that I would not like to repeat. I have one window out and cut a few pieces of the old seat , then set the windows back in. Here are some pictures; You can see when the window is just set in with the seal and not pushed into position, it bulges out past the top on the top corner. Then when we push in place like we think it is supposed to be it looks to us that the rear edge of the body is cut crooked, not leaving enough room for the seal and causing the window to have forward pressure on it. We are thinking this is what could be causing the window to keep popping out of its seal. I am thinking to do a slight trim to make the body cut straighter than it is from corner to corner. However, I admit I am not exactly sure about how much space that these seals are suppose to have to work right. It does not seem like much base up the profile of the seal. Before I started cutting I thought I would ask here in case someone has other thoughts. Any ideas are appreciated.

Thank you for the help on this. I got it working with a slide bolt from Home Depot and fixing the hinge as a band aid fix. I am planning to replace it because I am putting new ceiling in my sleep area and I want to look good. Sometime after Labor Day weekend. Thanks again. You guys are a great resource. I appreciate the help. If your ever in the Rock Cut State Park Area stop into the concession to say Hi.

I didn't think of it being an escape hatch. I will look at them. Thanks Any brands better than others. Any experience with any?

My project is on hold until fall. I am working 14 hour days. I run a concession at Rock Cut State Park, in Illinois. So, if anyone is in the area stop by and say hi. I have my rader here hoping to do odd jobs during off times. To the point. i am getting parts together to work on the build as soon as things slow down. My front roof vent is missing the crank handle and some kind of latch. I am not sure what fills the hole in the front the vent is. I do not know what any of it looked like. The vent is 16 x 24. Any help with parts would be appreciated

I actually have a bottle of that. I have 1,2, & 3. I used to have an acrylic aquarium and that was the stuff that was recommended to take the scratches out of the tank. I even know where it is in my shop. Thanks for the reminder.

Thank you guys for the help. I live between two big shopping districts so I will look for the polishes there. Gaskets are due Monday. Rain and storms due Wednesday. I will wait until the storm risk passes. No sense in hurrying. I will post more when I get them out.