odysseybernard

Have a slow drip coming from the clamp region at the black tank outlet. Black tank was flushed out for winter with just some RV antifreeze remaining, which is now gone. Is there a rubber gasket at this junction that needs replaced? Clamp seem frozen, even after pb blaster.

Yes, the new t100 cluster made the dash brake light stay on, just a coincidence happened at the same time the brakes were sticking. Per the info in the current electrical section thread about the cluster swap, I had to reposition the yellow wire to the P terminal to smooth out the tach needle, but I had left the red wire where it was instead of disconnecting it. Now the light is out. Soldering the two circuits in the 2nd picture gave me the ect (former airbag) light back. Going to replace the 27 year old master cylinder and bleed the brakes next.

Thanks for the replies. Will try pulling the fuses. The light showed up after I did a t100 cluster swap, I'll throw the old cluster back in to see if it goes away. I did have to solder 2 circuits together to get the ect light to replace the airbag light, but they are on the other side of the cluster from the brake light circuit. Just assumed it was for real since I know the brakes were grabbing/locking. I know the ebrake cable was not releasing all the way.

Thanks Linda! I passed that one by since it said 4wd, but you're correct, the numbers cross check. Have ordered and my plan is to replace the Mc and bleed the brakes. Have the RV in storage with high humidity plus recent below zero temps, lockup may be water related. Not sure if noise is from front or rear brakes, but am thinking rear since if I reach under and release the ebrake cable there is no lockup. Can't figure out why dash brake light stays on even after disconnecting both switches. Maybe alternator? But charge light is not on.

After searching, the master cylinder i need for a 91 v6 has a 15/16 inch bore, not 7/8?. Having trouble locating one for a 1 ton, may have to get the $200 plus toyota one. Aftermarket brake master cylinder still availabe anyone know?

Thanks for the replies. Master cylinder is full and float is ok. Plus e Brake light stays on when the master cylinder switch is disconnected. I may put a new mc on and flush new fluid in since its the orig mc. The e Brake cable is looping near the bottom near the switch. But light stays on even when the switch is engaged when cable straightened out or pressed by my finger. reached under the truck and took up the slack to release the rear ebrake and now rear brakes aren't dragging, but e Brake light stays on!! Maybe the rear brakes are dragging or engaged due to the recent cold weather. Cable underneath or rear brakes likely need adjusting? Don't know why e Brake light won't go off.c Having trouble finding a shop to work on the rear dually brakes. Aren't they just regular drum brakes?

Received the connector and pin but haven't put in the new oil pressure Sensor yet. Doesn't seem to be a direct fit, will try and modify the connection.

Just finished the swap today. Yes, after the solder jump, the airbag light becomes the ect light. I had a spare ect plastic cover plate from the old cluster that I used so looks and works great now! Thanks for the tip. My dash brake light is now on and won't go off, but I don't think it's related to the t100 new cluster. I put green led lights in which are brighter but the two lower small gauges on each side are dimmer than the rest. Led lights with lights on the sides and top work better than the ones I got with the lights just on the top, due to location and shapes of plastic reflectors inside the cluster. Moving the yellow wire to the P cluster terminal fixed the shaky tach needle also as described above.

Emergency brake was not on when started rv, but the dash brake light won't go out. Got underneath at the brake pedal and the little black disc that pushes the brake pedal switch in is ok. Lately have been having problems getting the dash brake light to go off when releasing the e brake, but up to now always can get it off by pushing the e brake handle more in. Put in drive and r.v. Would not creep or move, as if brakes were locked. Put in reverse and moved backward normally. Then put back in drive, took foot off brake and would creep forward normally then suddenly stopped abruptly with a noise that seemed to be coming from the right front caliper area as if brakes suddenly locked. Dash Brake light on the whole time. Is there an E brake switch that also controls the light that could be sticking? I don't think the rear brake lights are coming on. Thanks for any ideas!

To replace the v6 oil pressure sender, the electrical connectors don't match as described above. From the yotatech site thread, I ordered a connector and a pin as described below. It's underneath the alternator, Was able to get the old switch sender off with a 1 1/16 6 point sender socket from underneath with an extension, but it's tight and may have been easier to swing the alternator out of the way from the top as described above. The new sender (for the gauge) I got online, non oem. Delphi autom. Connectors. Connector 829-02962965-B Pin 829-02977112 I ordered from Mouser.com, good customer service. These are supposed to work, with slight modification, for the elect connection, per the 10 page yotatech thread.

Nice! Thanks for the above posts. Turns out I just did the t100 cluster swap and had the jumpy tach needle as well. I didn't adjust the potent., I just turned the key on and then readjusted the needle back down to 0. I will move the light colored wire (yellow) to the P terminal and see if that fixes the jumpiness. Good to know I can get the ect power button back by shorting the above 2 connectors, but notice one leads to the airbag light, not the 4wd light, which is on the other side. So it looks like the airbag light will light up when the ect button is pressed, not the 4wd light?? You also lose the hazard light with the t100 cluster swap, but you do have the prndl lights which are not on the 4runner cluster. Am also replacing the cluster lights with led t10 194 and t5 74 green LEDs. Will post pic when done. Thanks for the tip!

SR5 4runner cluster swap is a direct swap. But prndl will be lost if you have an automatic tranny. Must Use The Cable Speedo Cluster of yours is cable. Also Must Swap Oil Sender units Before Or You Will Fry The New Oil Pressure Guage. The t100 Cluster Has The Prndl, and May Also Be A Direct Swap, But Not Sure. Might Check Yotatech Forums For More Info.

Thanks for the replies. Wife and I now realize we should have pressurized and used the water system this summer before we remodeled our Odyssey to make sure no leaks. We hesitate to try it out now in December with RV antifreeze; if there is a leak we will have a red mess all over. Very little water if any left in pipes after the air, so gonna wait till spring and pressurized the system with water then. Also there is no heater bypass installed. I have the bypass kit, but there is no room to install the valves without the pipes sticking out the cabinet door. Will add a picture shortly.

First time winterizing rv. Have drained the hot water tank. (Previos owner said rv was winterized when purchased in may, 2017 ???, Was not pink or red water at all). No tank bypass. Lucky no leaks and tank held air pressure when I air purged the lines at the water hookup and then removed the heater drain plug again. Have drained all tanks and air purged the water lines at the faucets and toilet. Shower was hardest. First I ran the water pump briefly for 10 seconds and after air purge i disconnected the pump inlet hose, no water drainage at all. Used one rv antifreeze bottle and poured some in all drains, toilet, and all 3 tanks. Don't believe there is any water left anywhere, so do I really need to pump more antifreeze into the water lines until the faucets run red? Thanks.

I considered a portable generator solution, but I decided to bite the bullet and fix my Onan 2.8 microlite since it only had 240 hours on it. Just reinstalled it and runs great after new carb, sp plug, oil change, fuel and air filter, voltage regulator, brushes. It runs my roof 13.5 a/c and microwave easily with no discernible rev change. You can definitely tell that it's on when inside but it's quieter than I thought it would be. The convenience of starting and stopping it from the inside and running off the truck gas tank (of course has to be greater than a quarter tank full ) is nice. But it was a lot more expensive than I thought to get it running well. There is a LOT of hot cooling air coming out around the exhaust pipe underneath the RV when running, so a portable unit running in an enclosed box I imagine might be a problem without significant cooling airflow.

Thanks for the reply. You're right, I had the voltmeter on a/c instead of d/c. It now reads correctly. Can't blame that on being a senior!

Reinstalling my generator and thought I would check the voltage to make sure I had the hot 12 volt wire connected correctly at the generator. I'm getting around 27 volts at the hot 12 volt DC starting wire at the generator???. So I used the voltmeter to check the voltage at the coach battery which was also 27 volts. So I then check the voltage at the truck battery, which was also 27 volts. Is this normal???? Shouldn't it be 13 to 14 volts everywhere? Or maybe do I have a bad isolator and the coach and truck batteries are connected in series??? I have the solenoid cylindrical type isolator on the firewall. I don't want to fry my now functioning fixed generator with 27 volts to start it, although I'm suspecting it has always been 27 volts even before I pulled the generator out of the RV, and it never hurt it before. Thanks.

Finished product. Wife also recovered the headrests and a pillow with leftover matching material from the back jackknife double couch/bed remodal that we did. There is a double cupholder pullout under the lid. I also swapped the front fascia from s 94 4runner sr5 so I would have 2 cupholders in the dash instead of just 1 and that fake cupholder that was on the original fascia. Don't know why I need 6 but better than 1.

At a recent Toyota RV rally in Illinois, one of the other owners noticed that I needed new rear leaf spring bushings as shown. Upon further inspection, the driver side rear shackle was bent toward the center, resulting in the leafsprings touching the outer shackle arm. I just ordered two new shackles for 55 apiece, which included the 4 bushings on either side. To me, It looks exactly like the one that was on there, wasn't sure it was for the 1 ton when ordering. The front eyelet ls bushings were ok. A shop installed them for $180. First 2 shops wouldn't do it.

Panoramic rear windows means either a ponderosa or mesa, 22 ft. They are rare. Took us a year looking for a panoramic rear window model to find our ponderosa. We really like it. Odysseys at 22 ft are the largest Toyota RV; wider and taller also and probably heavier. Easy to drive and use the rear view mirror with the large rear window. Wife and I just resealed all our windows with butyl tape. We converted our back dinnette, now have two jackknife sofas that fold into a queen-size bed. Have a removable, back wall attaching table that extends between the sofas when used and stows under the rear window. It's a great layout; all who have seen it seem to like it.

Thanks Dan. A lot harder to access than on the 4 cylinder. Gonna change oil and pull the filter for better access.

My 91 Odyssey v6 had and has Toyota red, which I also used after flushing 3 times with distilled water. Supposedly produces less rust with iron block engines than the green coolant per the yotatech forums. Supposedly need to change the green more frequently due to rust formation. I always use Toyota red in my 97 previa altrac (best snow vehicle I have ever driven), 89 mr2 supercharged, and 02 ls430. My temp gauge is always below halfway unless going 60 on the highway with the a/c on, when it gets just past halfway but no where near the red zone.

Am replacing my oil pressure switch/light with a guage, so I have the new round sender guage, but can't find the sender port location on the v6, doesn't seem to be down by the oil filter like on the 4 cylinder. Anyone know? Thanks.

Can't recall the vehicle I pulled it from, a Subaru or Kia maybe? Also pulled the lid from a 94 Celica which has the undersurface pull out cupholder times 2. It is wider and added 2 layers of foam padding on top and the wife is recovering it with same material as the seats. I will switch the lids when done. Why I will need 5 cupholders i don't know. Also did the overhead map light switch from a 95 4runner, 2 instead of 1 light. Nice upgrade.