odysseybernard
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Posts posted by odysseybernard
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Old thread but wonder what the solution was?
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If it's just one of the small vent or return metal lines on the tank, would it be feasible to just jbweld it?
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Sorry, meant to say that I Dremel the end of the duplicated key so the mount would match the blank key.
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He made me a regular key. Took the blank key out of the flip key, and Dremelled the blank key to match the duplicated key. Works great.
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Have you actually driven a 4 cylinder or a 6 cylinder? I drove both and decided I wanted the minor extra power and more quiet cabin of the 6 cylinder. 4 cylinder is easier to work on and cheaper to replace though, to each his own. I just enjoyed driving the 6 cylinder better.
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Treated surface rust and painted. Probably an overkill since it was pretty solid as rig came from calif., But fixed a few dents and painted the lower fender so it was off anyway
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Front crossmember looks pretty good without significant rust although I could not feel the nuts welded to the inside of the crossmember at the brackets, but the attachment bracket bolts seem solid.
so I don't think this is the cause of the popping noise I sometimes hear with slow, sharp turns. Maybe it is the bump stops after all?
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Thanks alot for the pics, will check mine for rust. Same year as yours so I'm not optimistic. To a nonwelder it looks great!
Do you need any special tools to change the control arms and ball joints other than a ball joint puller fork?
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Thanks, it's worth the time and trouble.
_mazon has a few, at least one with the flip keys. You only use 2 of the actuators. You have to buy the momentary switch separately which is optional.
There's also a few without the flip keysJust search for power lock remote keyless. if you manually press the driver's lock down or up the passenger lock does the same
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Sure, if you look closely at the pics you can see how they're mounted. You must get the rods fairly parallel to properly use the connecting piece, which is held in place by 3 small Phillips screws. Not shown but I actually dremeled out a small piece of the metal so I could adequately tighten the screws. It works really well, but does take some planning and adjustments. There is a plastic cover that holds the lock knob collar down that a had to cut in 2 to access the lock rod. The horizontal rod is for the inside handle opening and just gets in the way.
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Power lock kit with actuators was $25 from Amazon. Just need to figure out where to mount the actuators. Also installed a momentary switch in the dash.
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Got tired of constantly trying to unlock the front cab door locks with the keys, which would stick, especially when colder outside. So I installed a remote keyless entry- power locks that came with flip keys on the fobs. Locksmith could not or would not cut the blank to match my old Toyota truck key. So I had him copy the truck key then dremeled it down to match the attachment ends. Worked out better than I thought!
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Wow, sounds like I need to do this also.
Any pics at all would be greatly appreciated!
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My 91 is cable driven. Been making noise when cold. Need to lube it or replace it I suppose
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Joe,
Just pull your cluster and see if there's a speedo cable attached to the back of it.
Doesn't take long if you've done it before. It's a great oem look mod, worth the effort
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With hose attached to the bottom nipple no gas drains from hose. Gas only drains from the screw hole if screw is Totally removed. Should it drain from the hose at the nipple?. I may have to install a valve, on off for gas line.
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On my 91, i don't see a bushing between the bar and bracket, just what looks like a "frame hole plug" at each end. I can pull one out and try and see a pn if that would help.
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I have an aisin in my 91 V6 also. It's made in Japan but when I replaced the old Toyota oem I compared them and they were not identical. Have had no problems but I've never driven it when it's super hot up here. I would definitely put in an oem tstat since you have to drain the coolant anyway and see if that helps.
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Would throw a Toyota oem thermostat or at least an aisin t-stat in there for sure and see if that helps any.
Have heard bad stories about non oem tstats in Toyotas.
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Found a puddle of gas under the RV while parked in my drive. Was coming from a fuel return line close to the fuel pump on top the gas tank. After replacing the line, also found the wire sheath had been chewed in three different locations. No doubt a decendent of the squirrel that chewed thru a turbo wire in my gti 10 years ago.
We had seen him run out from under the RV twice. Back to storage for the rv. after repairing the bare wires. Thankful I found the damage before driving it.
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Easy to replace the 28 year old radiator, which should help. Does the needle actually get into the red zone, or just approach it?
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Isn't the potentiometer screw just for the tach needle? My speedometer needle is the one shaking and noisy which makes me think it just needs cable lube.
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Good time to lube the cable while the cluster is out, which I now have to re pull and lube. Speedo needle is shaky and noisy
Onan Generator issue
in Coach ApplianceTech Issues
Posted
My onan 2800 did the exact same thing. Plus had surging which was cured with a new carburetor. ( I have installed a fuel shutoff valve since, to run it dry so it doesn't gum up again.). Would start but only keep running if held start button down.
Electric shop fixed with an updated
VR per service notice. Part # 305-0897. SN is about spark plugs wire being too close to VR?
$839 is steep, but I'm glad I had it fixed. Don't have to worry about it getting stolen, and love the convenience of starting from the inside, especially in winter. Will see if I can find the service order.
Hope this helps you.